Occasionally, a product comes along with a concept I adore. One such product is Priori Radical Defense ($120.00 retail, $110.00 on SkinCareRx.com). Named one of the 30 greatest beauty products of our time by the British Telegraph, Priori Radical Defense combines a potent dual chemical/physical broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 with antioxidant powerhouse idebenone in a side-by-side pump dispenser. Pretty clever, if I do say so myself.
Idebenone is an incredible antioxidant that is technically a stable analog of the antioxidant coenzyme Q10. Idebenone neutralizes free radicals and protects the skin from many UV-induced reactive oxidative species, according to the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Idebenone use for six weeks was found in a 2005 double-blind study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology to result in significant improvements in aging: in the study, forty-one female subjects, aged 30-65, with moderate photodamaged skin used creams with either 0.5% or 1.0% idebenone. After one-and-a-half months’ use of the 1.0% idebenone formula, a 26% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 29% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 33% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. For the 0.5% idebenone formulation, a 23% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 27% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 30% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin.
In comparison with other antioxidants, idebenone is more effective at reducing oxidative stress than vitamin E, kinetin, ubiquinone, vitamin C, and lipoic acid, according to a 2007 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, and is second in antioxidant protection only to antioxidant powerhouse coffeeberry, found in the Revale Skin line.
In comparison with the other most potent antioxidant-sunscreen combination product, Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry ($72.00, Amazon.com), Priori Radical Defense contains a far better sunscreen combination. While Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry only offers SPF 15 and standard UVA protection, Priori Radical Defense protects with physical sunscreen (zinc oxide 8%) that prevents UV rays from hitting the skin, as well as chemical sunscreens (octinoxate 7.5%, octisalate 5%, and oxybenzone 5%) to prevent contacted UV rays from damaging the skin. Unfortunately, the idebenone in Priori Radical Defense is not as potent an antioxidant as the coffee berry in Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry, and some individuals (myself included) also experience sensitivity after idebenone use.
With that said, the following is the way I see it: If you are looking for potent antioxidant-sunscreen protection, and your skin is NOT sensitive, I say go with Priori Radical Defense, for the best sunscreen. However, if your skin IS sensitive, I say go with Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry. And because different antioxidants neutralize free radicals in different ways, it’s always a great idea to mix up the antioxidants you use. Try Priori Radical Defense during the day and Revale Skin Night Cream at night, OR Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry during the day and Priori Night Cream at night. No matter how you go, it’s a win-win! 
Product rating: 9.5/10 (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3/3. Novel technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 2,5/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).
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July 18th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Product Reviews, sunscreen |
one comment
Recently, I was surprised to find a line that gives whole new meaning to the word “cosmeceutical”: Exederm Ultra Sensitive Skin Care. Exederm is a line formulated for sensitive skin that contains no colors, parabens, lanolin, fragrance, sodium lauryl sulfate or formaldehyde. But what really surprised me about Exederm products was relatively high non-prescription concentration of hydrocortisone in the Flare Control Cream - 1%.
Hydrocortisone is a synthetic form of the stress hormone, cortisol, that used to be known as Compound E. Hydrocortisone was developed in order to treat allergic reactions and inflammation, and is used in concentrations of 0.5-1% (as in Exederm products) to treat sensitive skin symptoms. To treat sensitive skin and mild rashes, Exederm should be applied 2-3 times a week until symptoms cease.
Because hydrocortisone is absorbed in the bloodstream, it is well-known that prescription strength hydrocortisone can cause a variety of undesirable side effects (excess hair growth, burning, redness) with repeated use over time. For this reason, I personally use Exederm whenever I have contact dermatitis from trying a new product, and keep it in my medicine cabinet for those emergency cases. I wouldn’t personally use the Flare Control Cream for longer than two weeks at a time, to prevent side effects from occurring.
Exederm Cleansing Wash goes on without a lot of bubbles, which makes sense, with the low concentration of surfactants. Still, it leaves skin feeling clean without feeling dry or tight. The fact that the facial wash is completely free of oil, sodium lauryl sulfate, color, parabens, fragrance, formaldehyde and hydrocortisone makes it perfect for daily use.
Exederm Flare Control Cream contains 1% hydrocortisone, making it extremely effective but not suitable for long-term use. However, it is very effective against red, irritated, and itchy skin; in fact, I would venture to say that this is the next best thing to a prescription, since a doctor would give you 2-4% hydrocortisone, whereas this is 1%. I used it on a patch of poison ivy for the past 2 days (I just got a dog, and I chased her through a park…not a good idea, haha), and it really alleviated the itch. Ahhh….
Exederm Intensive Moisture Cream goes on light, but once on, you can tell that the second ingredient is super hydrator petrolatum. It is very hydrating and feels cooling on a rash. It doesn’t contain anti-aging ingredients or sunscreen, but it is a solid moisturizer that is suitable for anyone with sensitive skin.
Overall, I’m very impressed with the Exederm Ultra Sensitive Skin Care line. I especially love the Exederm Cleansing Wash for everyday and the Flare Control Cream for itchy redness for two week intervals. Overall, I give this line a solid 9/10. (High concentration of well-proven ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
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July 15th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Dry Skin Treatments, How to Get Rid of..., Product Reviews, Spotlight On..., eczema treatments |
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I apologize for not posting for a few days. I got promoted at work and got a puppy, so I have been very busy!
With that said, I was ecstatic to recently try NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser and Hydrating Moisture Cream. Designed to be both luxurious and effective, the duo claims to be packed with Active Phytoseed Complex and antioxidants to reivtalize the skin.
NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser contains mostly water, stearic acid, PEG-8, myristic acid, and glycerin. Stearic acid (octadecanoic acid for you organic chemistry lovers) is used to create a pearlized effect in the cleanser, PEG-8 is a surfactant, myristic acid is used to assist the absorption of quality ingredients through the skin as far as possible, and glycerin is used for hydration. The overall effect of these major ingredients is a sudsy, foamy, yet softening and hydrating, cleanser.
NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser also contains soothing jojoba oil, aloe vera, and green tea. Jojoba oil has been documented in Pharmacological Research in 2005 to have soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, though the concentrations used in these studies are seemingly higher than in NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser. Aloe vera has been documented as a soothing and hydrating source in many contexts, but a 1999 review in British Journal of General Practice sums its properties up well. Finally, green tea is a potent antioxidant that is able to reduce inflammation, soothe skin, prevent certain forms of cancer, and prevent the hardened aged state of collagen, glucosepane.
Once applied, NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser goes on with lots of bubbles (which I happened to like). With the quantity of soothing ingredients, it left my normal-sensitive skin feeling mildly hydrated, not dry, like many other cleansers. I would recommend NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser to anyone with normal-to-dry skin (not oily).
NARS Hydrating Moisture Cream contains a high concentration of six hydrators: aqua (Water), squalane, pentaethythrityl tetraoctanoate, butylene glycol, glycerin, and dimethicone. Beyond the high level of hydration, NARS Hydrating Moisture Cream contains retinyl acetate, which has been documented in The Journal of Investigative Dermatology to have anti-aging effects, despite the effect that it is more gentle for the skin than retinol or tretinoin. NARS Hydrating Moisture Cream also contains vitamin C as orange oil and ascorbyl glucoside (a stable form of vitamin C).
Once on the skin, NARS Hydrating Moisture Cream has a medium texture (not thin like a serum, but not thick like a heavy cream, either). Although the anti-aging ingredients (retinyl acetate and vitamin C) are not in very high concentration, the cream is hydrating enough for it to still be considered beneficial, particularly for those with sensitive skin.
Overall, I like NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser and Hydrating Moisture Cream. Although the products’ anti-aging ingredients are in relatively low concentration and they are sunscreen-free (grrr), the products are also gentle, hydrating, and ideal for sensitive to normal skin. I give the line a solid 7.5/10 (High concentration of well-established ingredients: 2/3. New or novel formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 1.5/3. Sunscreen: 0.5/1, with 0.5 because the product may be desirable as a night cream.)
For more information and ordering, please visit www.NarsCosmetics.com.
Ingredients in NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser
Aqua (Water), Stearic Acid, PEG-8, Myristic Acid, Glycerin, Diproylene Glycol, Potassium Hydroxide, Lauric Acid, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Sorbitol, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-60, Glyceryl Isostearate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Citrus Dulcis (Orange Oil), Trisodium EDTA, Buxus Chinensis (Jojoba Oil), Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Barbadensis Extract), Camellia Sinensis (Camellia Sinensis Extract), Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber Extract), Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.
Ingredients in NARS Hydrating Moisture Cream
Aqua (Water), Squalane, Pentaethythrityl Tetraoctanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Cyclomethicone, Petrolatum, Stearyl Alcohol, Beheneth-20, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, Trisodium EDTA, Carbomer, Retinyl Acetate, Alcohol, Citrus Dulcis (Orange Oil), Polyvinyl Alcohol, BHT, Potassium Hydroxide, Vitis Vinifera (Grape Seed Oil), Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Prunus Persica (Peach Kernel Extract), Lilium Candidum (White Lily Extract), Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel Extract), Rosa Roxburghil (Rosa Roxburghil Extract), Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides).
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July 14th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Product Reviews |
2 comments
Moringa is more than just a fun word to say…(aaaaaaay Moringa!), it is also an incredible new ingredient for skin care fanatics. According to the August 2008 issue of Lucky magazine, the flowers, leaves, and roots of moringa are edible and the oil of moringa is “an amazing moisturizer and antioxidant…it leaves hair shinier, skin soft and hydrated.”
Science validates the claims about moringa. According to this 2007 French study, moringa has hydrating and antioxidant properties that make it beneficial for the skin and the hair. This 1996 study in Plant Physiology and Biochemistry suggests that moringa oil may have some anti-tumor growth activity, an amazing property moringa shares with many other antioxidants. And moringa’s anti-carcinogenic activity was again suggested in this 2003 study.
While moringa is available in numerous products, here are a few of my favorites:
- The Body Shop Body Butter in Moringa ($20.00, Amazon.com). A shea butter formula complete with a fairly good concentration of moringa, I love the dual hydrating properties!
- Fresh In-Flight Face Kit with Moringa ($130.00, Amazon.com). A kit that keeps skin fresh, hydrated, and shielded from free radicals all through those oh-so-drying flights (recycled air, gross!). Best of all, the small bottles are easily transported, and the mask doesn’t need to be rinsed off! Loooove it!
For more on natural extracts, please visit the following pages:
Don’t forget to comment - each comment counts as 1 entry in the FutureDerm.com and Spin Lash giveaway, to be held tomorrow at noon!
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July 6th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Product Reviews |
2 comments
I don’t usually use a makeup primer (hey, I’m 23, I usually figure, why bother?). At the same time, however, I was lured when I recently discovered Bioelements Recovery Serum for Dry to Normal Skin ($62.00, Amazon.com), and addicted after. The product made my sensitive/normal skin appear very smooth and dewy, even under make-up.
The secret to Bioelements Recovery Serum is similar to yesterday’s Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum: that is, heavy on the silicones. Bioelements Recovery Serum features cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone in very high concentration. And similar to Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum, the effects of the serum are primarily for hydration and cosmetic purposes. While Bioelements Recovery Serum does contain ceramide 3, soothing chamomile, and calming lavender extract, the Journal of European Dermatology and Venearology has questioned whether ceramide 3 has long-term barrier repair effects, and chamomile and lavender are both found in very low concentration.
When applying Bioelements Recovery Serum, the smell is identical to Vicks VapoRub, at least to me. The consistency of Bioelements Recovery Serum is thick due to the silicones, and takes about 1-2 minutes to drink in fully (I personally brush my teeth as it sinks in). Finally, it is hard to use a sunscreen under or over this primer, so I recommend Bioelements Recovery Serum as a make-up primer at night - not during the day.
Overall, however, Bioelements Recovery Serum is truly an excellent product and I will use it every night I leave the house! :-) Overall rating: 8/10
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July 1st, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Product Reviews |
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According to some sources, like the July 2008 issue of Oprah magazine, for instance, women can’t get enough of Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum ($21.99, Amazon.com). Previously only available in Great Britain, Americans are loving the hydrating and smoothing texture of this serum.
Unfortunately, there is good news and bad news. The good news is that Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum is incredibly hydrating - the very high concentration of silicones (cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, and cyclohexasiloxane) will hydrate the skin, fill in fine lines and wrinkles, and give the skin a smoother appearance overall. That’s the good part.
The bad part is that Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum is not really an effective anti-aging product in the long run. While it is true that almost any hydrating moisturizer will provide some benefit in the long run, there aren’t really any restoring or renewing ingredients in proven concentrations in Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum, or any new or exciting technology, for that matter. There is a small unknown concentration of vitamin C as sodium ascorbyl palmitate, which will brighten the skin and act as an antioxidant, as well as retinyl palmitate, which will increase cell turnover, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and smooth the skin.
Overall, I love h of Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum as a cosmetic primer, but the key word here is cosmetic. For your best skin in the long run, use it in conjunction with a good retinol/retinyl palmitate, antioxidant(s), niacinamide, and, of course, sunscreen. Product rating: 6/10 (High concentration of well-established ingredients: 1.5/3. New technology: 1.5/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Ingredients in Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum
Cyclopentasiloxane; Aqua (Water, Eau); Butylene Glycol; Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Cyclohexasiloxane; Glycerin; Dimethicone Copolyol; Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate; Polysorbate 20; Magnesium sulfate; Phenoxyethanol; Sodium PCA; Retinyl Palmitate; Methylparaben; Propylene Glycol; Lupinus Albus Seed Extract; Carbomer; Butylparaben; Ethylparaben; Propylparaben; Isobutylparaben; Panax Ginseng Root Extract; Morus Alba Leaf Extract; Tocopherol; Palmitoyl oligopeptide; Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3
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July 1st, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Product Reviews |
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After a few days of using Skinceuticals’ new Phloretin CF instead of my beloved Skinceuticals CE Ferulic,
I have come to a surprising decision on what works best: using both together!
After speaking to a friend in the beauty business, it was suggested that perhaps Skinceuticals manufactured Phloretin CF without vitamin E so that CE Ferulic fans would buy Phloretin CF in addition to, rather than instead of, CE Ferulic. This logic also made since because my (normal, somewhat sensitive) skin felt awfully dry after three days’ use of solely Phloretin CF. However, during that time, I felt that Phloretin CF on its own made my undereye skin look somewhat firmer.
For the next week, I used Phloretin CF and CE Ferulic together, with the product with the thinner consistency (Phloretin CF) underneath. The results really were extraordinary: my skin looks extremely smooth, to the point that indoor light reflects from it. The sunspot under my right eye (from a childhood vacation in Florida, don’t ask, haha) also looks a bit lighter. I personally love the idea of getting 2% phloretin, 10% vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid, and 0.5% ferulic acid in Phloretin CF and also 1% vitamin E as tocopherol acetate, 15% vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid, and 0.5% ferulic acid in CE Ferulic. There is no known reported research indicating that the mixture can in any way be detrimental to the skin.
However, for the record, Skinceuticals states that Phloretin CF and CE Ferulic are made to address “different photo-aging concerns and skin types.” According to a recent company brochure, the new Phloretin CF is designed:
- for oily, problematic, and normal skin
- to diminish age spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation
- to accelerate cell renewal
- to improve laxity
- to retexturize skin
On the other hand, according to the brochure, CE Ferulic is best suited:
- for dry, combination, and normal skin
- to replenish lipids
- to stimulate collagen synthesis
- to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
With that said, I offer the following advice: If you have normal skin, and can afford to use both products, I would do so to get increased antioxidant protection, increased skin firmness, and truly advanced hyperpigmentation treatment. (And I am not affiliated with Skinceuticals in any way, so I am saying this as an unbiased, unpaid recommendation! ) However, if you have dry skin, I would recommend only CE Ferulic, because Phloretin CF tends to dry out the skin. And, if you have oily skin, I would conversely recommend trying both Phloretin CF and CE Ferulic, because CE Ferulic is not as hydrating as Phloretin CF is drying. However, if your oily skin breaks out after using CE Ferulic, then definitely use only Phloretin CF. (Get your CE Ferulic from a company with a forgiving return policy like Amazon!)
I am truly loving my Phloretin CF and CE Ferulic in combination, and I hope that you find this post helpful too!
P.S.– Keep commenting! The FutureDerm and Skinmedix.com $500 skincare giveaway is this Friday, June 19, 2008!
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June 16th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Product Reviews |
23 comments
Being a beauty blogger has its perks: for one, you have to try lots of products! Of course, being a beauty blogger also has its detriments: you have to try lots of products, and some of these products are not always good for my normal, but somewhat sensitive, skin.
That’s why I was happy to come across the Skin Scientifica T’Fivve line, which claims to be “perfect for those who are ready for an anti-aging regimen, but are hesitant to use existing products because of skin sensitivity to traditional ingredients. Instead of the typical anti-aging ingredients, the T’Fivve line largely depends on hydration systems, vitamin C, peptides, and K6PC5, an ingredient the company deems “a skin…activator that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.” Although research on K6PC5 seems extremely limited (only research conducted by the company itself could be found), K6PC5 reportedly activates the keratinocyte (skin cell) differentiation, fibroblast proliferation, and collagen synthesis without irritating the skin. Best of all, the company claims that K6PC5 is not deteriorated by light or heat, like many antioxidants. However, one should keep in mind that I could not find whether the studies on K6PC5 were double-blind, placebo-controlled, multi-center, split-face, etc.
Of all the Skin Scientifica products, my favorite is the T’Fivve Anti-Aging Eye Repair Serum ($65.00, SkinScientifica.com). The cream features K6PC5, undereye-brightening and firming niacinamide in relatively high concentration, antioxidant vitamin C and firming peptides as ascorbyl pentapeptide, and a very hydrating complex with a largely silicone base. The cream leaves skin feeling smooth, and a relatively high concentration of silica particles gives the undereye area an instant cosmetic sheen. Because T’Fivve Anti-Aging Eye Repair Serum takes a few minutes to dry on the skin, I personally like to apply the eye cream, brush my teeth, and then put make-up on the undereye area. It leaves the area cool and smooth.
Over time, with the skin-firming, hydrating, and antioxidant properties of T’Fivve Anti-Aging Eye Repair Serum, this repair serum can help to prevent future signs of damage from occurring. Are there better, more potent eye creams out there? Certainly. However, the strength of T’Fivve Anti-Aging Eye Repair Serum is that it is gentle enough for sensitive skin, but still tough enough to fight free radicals, dryness, dullness, and future loss of firmness for those patients. I give it a solid 9/10. (High concentration of well-researched ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 3+/3. Value for the money: 2.5/3. Sunscreen: 0.5/1, with a deduction of only -0.5 because this eye serum may be desirable to use at night as well.)
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June 14th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Product Reviews |
6 comments
I’m all about high concentrations of potent ingredients in skin care formulations. So when I heard about M Lab products, formulated with “unprecedented levels — 45-74% — of clinically active ingredients,” I was pretty excited.
It turns out there is both good news and a little bit of bad news. The good news is, of course, that there are lots of quality, well-researched ingredients, ranging from ceramide 2 to olive oil, from retinyl palmitate to vitamin C, which together comprise 45-74% of the composition of the cream. Each of the ingredients have specific uses and cover just about everything a patient could want in an anti-aging cream:
- free radical-fighting antioxidants vitamins C and E, coenzyme Q10, and olive oil
- firming palmitoyl pentapeptide-7 and ceramide 2, skin-smoothing soybean extract
- hydrating olive oil, glycerin, squalane, cholesterol, and dimethicone
- skin-brightening arbutin
- wrinkle-fighting retinyl palmitate and aminobutyric acid
- broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and oxybenzone
That’s the good, or even great, news.
The sort-of bad news is that M Lab Anti-Aging Day Treatment SPF 15 fails to include especially high concentrations of any one key active ingredient. Although collectively, yes, 12 active ingredients comprise 45-74% of the composition of the product, some key ingredients, like vitamin C as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and vitamin E as tocopheryl acetate, are only found in the 1-2% range. In fact, the ingredient in highest concentration (besides the sunscreen) is aminobutyric acid, which is most likely in the 10-15% range. Limited research demonstrates that topical application of aminobutyric acid can have a wrinkle-inhibiting effect in some patients, but the effect is not universal. (I liken its effects to the diet product hoodia - for the patients it works for, it’s a miracle, but for others, it doesn’t work at all!)
Of course, I also recognize that having each of the active ingredients in the 10-15% range is a mathematical impossibility. I just wish that the cream had higher concentrations of the more scientifically researched ingredients, like vitamin C, vitamin E, olive oil, and retinyl palmitate, rather than aminobutyric acid, cholesterol, and squalane (a less-researched wrinkle-inhibitor and two hydrators).
M Lab Anti-Aging Day Treatment SPF 15 feels very smooth on the skin and drinks in quickly. It has a faint, pleasant scent reminiscent of many Clinique sun care products. And while I am a bit disappointed that the most researched ingredients are not found in even higher concentrations, I still feel that M Lab Anti-Aging Day Treatment SPF 15 makes a moisturizer ideal for the young patient who is looking to protect and prevent the skin from premature aging and to increase skin’s brightness and hydration, but not necessarily erase fine lines and wrinkles (too little retinyl palmitate for that), unless you know your skin reacts well to GABA inhibitors. I give it a solid 8.5/10. (High concentration of well-researched ingredients: 2.5/3. New technology or unique formulation: 2.5/3. Value for the money: 2.5/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).
Ingredients in M Lab Anti-Aging Day Treatment SPF 15
Aqua, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, Oxybenzone, Pentylene Glycol, Aminobutyric Acid, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Glycerin, Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate, Cholesterol, Dimethicone, PEG-40 Stearate, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Beta Glucan, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Vitis Vinifera Oil Crosspolymer, Ceramide 2, Carbomer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Olea Europaea Oil, Polysorbate-60, Vitis Vinifera Oil, Alpha Arbutin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Algin, Potassium Sorbate, Sorbitol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Xanthum Gum, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Chlorphenesin, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Polysorbate 20, Moris Aqua, Algin, Gellidiela Acerosa Extract, Glycine Soja Extract, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Retinyl Palmitate, Sargassum Filipendula Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Citrate, Atelocollagen, Evodia Rutaecarpa Extract, Ubiquinone, Sodium Hydroxide, Serine, Sodium Hyaluronate
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June 9th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Product Reviews, Uncategorized |
9 comments
If you read my blog enough, you know that I am a diehard Skinceuticals CE Ferulic junkie. I would probably inject, inhale, and snort the $128 serum if it were possible to do so. (And yes, this is me being sarcastic, haha.)
So imagine my surprise when I discovered that Skinceuticals has a new serum: Skinceuticals Phloretin CF ($128.00, Skinmedix.com). It’s kind-of like CE Ferulic was a Harvard grad, only to have its baby cousin Phloretin CF emerge and become a Rhodes Scholar: Phloretin CF is just that amazing. Preliminary research demonstrates that it is basically a super antioxidant that not only fights free radicals, but also protects against DNA damage and penetrates well into the skin. As said in June 2008 issue of Oprah, “Phloretin, a natural extract that’s been studied as an anticancer agent, is the newest antioxidant available topically; research has shown it can penetrate the skin and provide significant UV protection.” According to Dr. Brenton B. Koch, M.D., F.A.C.S., SkinCeuticals developed Phloretin CF after five extensive years of research. Dr. Koch elaborates in his blog, “This powerhouse formulation divides and conquers when it comes to damage at every level. Phloretin CF protects against not only free radicals, but the range of other reactive molecules known to cause damage and DNA mutations among integral cell types. In addition, it corrects existing damage by stimulating the synthesis of essential proteins and fibers and accelerating cell turnover.” Additional research in The Journal of Biological Chemistry shows that phloretin is an inhibitor of sugar transport amongst red blood cells, which holds some level of promise as to the role phloretin may play in AGE formation and the subsequent hardening of the skin’s collagen.
So how does Phloretin CF differ from CE Ferulic? Basically, Skinceuticals:
- removed all the vitamin E (1% to 0%) and 5% of the vitamin C from CE Ferulic (from 15% to 10%)
- kept the same level of ferulic acid as an antioxidant stabilizer (0.5%)
- added in 2% phloretin (from 0% to 2%)
What is exciting about this is that 2% phloretin reportedly is a very powerful antioxidant, not only fighting free radicals, but also protecting DNA from future damage and penetrating the skin in a way the ingredients in CE Ferulic were not shown to in published research. What is not exciting is that the product not only contains less vitamin C than CE Ferulic, but took out the vitamin E altogether, and vitamin C and vitamin E in combination have many well-established functions together, including prevention of the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines and enhancing the photoprotective effects of sunscreen, as vitamin C has been reported to enhance UVA protection, whereas vitamin E is more effective against UVB radiation. Vitamin C and vitamin E are also two antioxidants that are able to “borrow” an electron to enhance one another.
So which is better? The word is still out, until some brilliant scientist decides to do a comparison study of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 0.5% vitamin E versus 10% L-ascorbic acid and 2.0% phloretin. I say, if you are a cautious person, stick to the proven CE Ferulic until more research inevitably surfaces. (And my own personal experience from doing a switch to Phloretin CF, which will be available on the blog on June 17. ) On the other hand, if you are a trendy person who likes to be the first to try new things, then I would try Phloretin CF, because it is likely that 2.0% phloretin is equally or even more effective than 0.5% vitamin E, though one cannot be sure of such a thought.
At any rate, I love Phloretin CF! Be sure to come back on June 17 (and hopefully before, haha) to get the full scoop on my personal experiences from the switch!
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June 2nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews |
21 comments
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