Ah, sometimes in life, it all comes down to the little things. So as it is with the skin care container, according to Dr. Daniel Yarosh, Ph.D., CEO of AGI Dermatics (Remergent) and author of the new book The New Science of Perfect Skin. According to Yarosh, containers should in fact be a consideration when you are purchasing your skin care:
- “Jars are the worst offenders, because they are opened and closed frequently, exposing the entire surface of the product to airborne contaminants, as well as bacteria from the fingers that are dipped into the jar.”
- “Tubes have the similar problem between push-out and suck-back between the inside and outside of the package.”
- “Pumps are better, but those with long straws leading into the lotion or cream draw the product up from the bottom and still leave air on top of the product.”
- “Airless pump bottles are the best. There, the contents are pushed up from the bottom by a plunger, so no air is trapped inside a product.”
- “A metered dispenser is another great feature that pumps out the same amount every time the plunger is pushed. This feature avoids the waste that is produced when too much product is dispensed from a jar or tube and can make a small pump dispenser last longer than a bigger jar or tube.”
The bottom line: pay attention to your skin care containers before making a purchase! In addition, take extra caution that unstable ingredients like ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and retinol are in an airless pump rather than a jar or a tube.
Let me know if you have additional thoughts - each comment counts as an entry in the FutureDerm and Skinmedix.com $500 skin care giveaway until June 18, 2008 at 11:59 PM EST!
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May 23rd, 2008
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Quick Questions |
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For all mothers do every day of the year, there’s nothing better than giving Mom some luxury and comfort for Mother’s Day. And, in my personal opinion, nothing says luxury and comfort like thoughtful skin care. Here are some really special finds online that fit the bill perfectly:
1. Create a free website for Mom on Your Mom’s Philosophy.com. On Your Mom’s Philosophy.com, you can create a site about your mom and share your favorite stories, pictures, and videos - all for free. Other visitors will rate your page, and if yours is one of the top 20 ranked sites, your page will be featured on Philosophy.com on Mother’s Day as a finalist. From the 20 finalists, online voters will select one to receive the grand prize, a philosophy gift basket valued at $250. As an added bonus, everyone who creates a page will have a chance to win a $1200 shopping spree on Philosophy.com. I truly love this idea!
And, of course, philosophy has excellent Mother’s Day gift sets too. One of my favorites is the philosophy Amazing Grace Deluxe Gift Set ($85.00, Drugstore.com). For $85, the set includes an 8 oz. 3-in-1 shower gel, an 8 oz conditioner, an 8 oz body emulsion, a 4 oz hand cream, and a 2 oz fragrance. Best of all, the set features the peace-inducing Amazing Grace motto: How you climb the mountain is just as important as how you get down the mountain, and so, as it is with life, for which so many of us becomes one big gigantic test followed by one big gigantic lesson. In the end, it all comes down to one word: grace. it’s how you accept winning and losing, good luck and bad luck, the darkness and the light. So true - and so “Mom”.
2. Protect Mom’s skin with Celazome Serum Vitae for day ($54.00, SkinStore.com). Although my favorite skin serum is still Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, Celazome Serum Vitae is making a strong case for itself, with a high concentration of magnesium ascorbyl palmitate (a more stable form of vitamin C than in CE Ferulic) and vitamin E, plus anti-aging retinol, soothing aloe and lavender, and hydrating dimethicone and hyaluronic acid. Dr. Leslie Baumann even recommends it on her blog as a “top 5 spring skin care product.” To save money, sign up at eBates.com for free before you buy, and receive 8% cash back on your purchase, plus $10 bonus if you sign up before May 31, 2008!
I say this product is great for day because it contains vitamins C and E. which have been shown to enhance the effects of sunscreen. However, retinol can make the skin photosensitive, so if you use this product during the day, be sure to use it under a compatible moisturizer with sunscreen.
3. …and Lindi Face Serum for night ($40.00, LindiSkin.net). Available in lavender and citrus scents, Lindi Skin Face Serum contains a very high concentration of astaxanthin extract, a potent antioxidant. It also contains a high concentration of soybean oil, antioxidant vitamin E in two forms, hydrating ceramide 2, collagen-stimulating palmitoyl oligopeptide and ascorbyl palmitate, and soothing aloe. Despite the plethora of ingredients, Lindi Skin products are reportedly very gentle for the skin, as they are developed by a team of scientists for cancer patients undergoing radiation therapy and chemotherapy, who often experience nausea from skin care products due to scent, irritation, and even inflammation or stinging.
4. Give Mom sophisticated luxury with John Varvatos eau de parfum ($67.28, Amazon.com). I recently tried this perfume, and someone gave me the perfect term to describe it: “Mature.” A rich ambery floral with “fruity nuances”, it is definitely a scent for a sophisticated woman. According to the scent’s website, it product exudes “warmth, delicacy, elegance and sensuality.” New for the Spring, it’s one for the sophisticate for sure.
Here’s to great skin for Mom for Mother’s Day! Be sure to share some of your favorite Mother’s Day gift ideas too!
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May 2nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Dry Skin Treatments, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Quick Questions, Special Offers, Spotlight On..., Wrinkle Treatments |
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One excellent self tanner: Clinique Self Sun Face, $18.50, Amazon.com
Self tanners are like the Alfred Hitchcock of the skin care world: they are very popular, yet they work in mysterious ways. However, recently, I decided to uncover the secrets of the self tanner, and I thought that it might be interesting to share.
Most self-tanners work by using dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as the main ingredient. According to a report from The Danish Ministry of the Environment, DHA reacts with amino acids and amino groups during the formation of melanoids (pigments), on the outermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum). The reaction between DHA and amino acids and amino groups results in the formation of pyruvate and other hydroxycarbonyl compounds (see below).
Source: Mst.dk
The next stages involve amine reaction with keto- (i.e, a compound with a C=O group) and aldo (i.e., a compound with an H-C=O group) compounds to form ketoimines and aldoimines:
Source: Mst.dk
The resulting skin cells turn a tan-like color, which fades over time because the skin sheds itself completely every 35 to 45 days. Because this is process gradual, companies generally recommend that you reapply a self-tanner every 2 to 3 days in order to maintain the same level of tan.Tune in Monday evening (after 9 EST) for four steps to your perfect self-tanning job! 
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April 21st, 2008
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Commentary, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Quick Questions |
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Curel Continuous Comfort is $3.99 on Drugstore.com
The answer is yes, according to Dr. Frederic Brandt in this month’s Real Simple magazine. Even the most basic moisturizer hydrates, giving the skin a chance to rest. By doing so, you help maintain collagen production over time, according to Dr. Brandt. This keeps the skin firmer and younger for longer.
However, as Dr. Brandt is quick to point out, there are lots of other ingredients that are clinically proven to improve the skin too. At any rate, though, don’t be fooled into thinking expensive is automatically better. Although it is true that expensive creams often have better presentation and new ingredients (like the vitamin B5-derivative nicotinic acid in the NIA24 line), more drugstore-based skin care companies are putting extensive funds into R&D and coming up with some equally impressive ingredients (like the vitamin B5-derivative niacinamide in some Olay and Cover Girl products). The key is to stay educated! (For a full post on drugstore versus department store products, please click here.)
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April 18th, 2008
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Commentary, Quick Questions |
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The Concern
Dear Nicki,
I have been using idebenone for the past two weeks. Unfortunately, I have noticed that my skin has been getting red and irritated, but I want a superior antioxidant treatment. Can you recommend some for me?
-R
The response
Ahh, yes, irritation from idebenone. This is not at all uncommon - I experienced it a few years ago myself, and have read about some other customers getting a similar reaction.
However, before I go any further, I just want to remind you that I am not a dermatologist or physician yet, only a student, so please keep that in mind.
With that said, some antioxidant treatments have been found to have antioxidant capacity superior to idebenone that you may wish to try.
The first is a cream containing 1% resveratrol.
In a surprising 2008 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, a cream with 1% resveratrol was found to have 17 times the antioxidant effects of 1% idebenone (as determined by ORAC score)! 17 times! I found that to be extremely exciting, especially considering that my skin can’t tolerate idebenone. One cream I recommend with approximately 1% resveratrol (exact concentration not listed) is Cellex C Advanced Tightening Cream ($116.00, Amazon.com). Containing an impressive 17.5% ascorbic acid in addition to resveratrol, the vitamin C alone in this cream should scavenge free radicals, suppress hyperpigmentation, stimulate collagen production and enhance sunscreen protection, provided that the formulation is kept free from air and light.
The second is a cream containing (yes, I said it again) CoffeeBerry.
In a 2007 study, CoffeeBerry was reported to have the highest ORAC score of any measured or reported skin care ingredient. Available in the RevaléSkin line in concentrations from 0.1-1.0%, the line offers superior antioxidant protection.
So there you have it - all the excellence of idebenone protection, without the irritation (hopefully). As the mechanisms of action of all the different antioxidants is still largely being determined, it is your best bet to use a variety of antioxidants, to guard all the potential pathways. And, as always, consult your dermatologist if you have questions or concerns with a new product.
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April 17th, 2008
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Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Quick Questions |
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Photo courtesy Foamorder.com
If you’ve often heard you should apply night cream religiously before bed, here’s why. Dr. David E. Bank states in the January 2008 issue of Health magazine that core internal temperature rises at night and the facial muscles and pores relax, allowing for skin care ingredients to penetrate the skin more deeply (and hence have greater effect).
For greatest effect, most dermatologists recommend using ingredients like retinoids or AHAs at night, which can make the skin photosensitive and hence more susceptible to sun damage when used during the day. (Sensitive skin note: You may only want to use these ingredients 2-3 times a week.) You may also want to use peptides to firm the skin. And don’t forget about antioxidants. Unfortunately, at this time it is unclear by which pathways which antioxidants scavenge free radicals. As such, some dermatologists recommend using different antioxidants during the day than at night (cover all your bases, that sort of thing). I personally like to use antioxidants vitamin C and E in the morning under sunscreen, which boost sunscreen protection, and then switch to coffeeberry or idebenone at night.
Happy sleeping!
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March 25th, 2008
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According to Dr. Doris Day in the April 2008 issue of Health magazine:
- Natural refers to ingredients derived from plants, minerals, or algae.
- Organic describes substances grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers, and processed without man-made chemicals.
- Made with Organic Ingredients means that 70% or greater of the ingredients are organic content.
- USDA Certified Organic is the highest standard. USDA Certified Organic means that 95-100% of ingredients must meet USDA organic standards for food. More information about USDA Certified Organic is available here.
According to Dr. Day, “The National Standards Foundation (NSF) is working with outside groups, including organic-cosmetics manufacturers (like Burt’s Bees) to create an organic standard specifically for personal-care products, which should take effect in the next year or two.” Until then, keep the above standards in mind if you are an organic skin care product fan.
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March 23rd, 2008
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Natural Products, Quick Questions |
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Celebrities are usually beautiful, polished, charismatic…and yes, blessed with perfect-looking skin and hair. While Hollywood’s best and brightest often consult with top dermatologists to achieve their glow, most often maintain their appearance with at-home treatments as well. Below are some of the treatments revealed:
Heidi Klum
This week’s issue of US Magazine says that Klum keeps her skin soft with Sjai Kura Intuitif Nourishing Cream ($255.00, EliteSkinCare.com). An impressive cream with 5% glutathione, which has been shown in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology to be a potent antioxidant in the epidermis (top layer of skin). Glutathione is a network antioxidant, which means that it works with other antioxidants synergistically to regenerate and enhance their action. Other network antioxidants include vitamins C and E, glutathione, lipoic acid, and coenzyme Q10; however, according to Cosmetic Dermatology, glutathione is the most abundant antioxidant of the network antioxidants, and is significantly recycled by lipoic acid.
Sarah Michelle Gellar
A self-proclaimed lotion addict, Sarah Michelle Gellar is currently a fan of Kiehl’s Creme de Corps Soy Milk and Honey Body Polish ($27.50, Kiehl’s.com). To keep the skin hydrated, the product includes shea and jojoba butters, honey, and sweet almond oil. To gently exfoliate the skin, ground Luffa Fruit is added. Soy Milk Protein keeps the skin smooth, stimulates the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro, and keeps hyperpigmentation in check.
Amy Adams
Adams is enchanted (sorry, I couldn’t help it) with Jo Malone Jasmine and Mint Bath Oil ($60.00, JoMalone.com). While Jo Malone Jasmine and Mint Bath Oil is skin-softening, ingredients-wise, it’s more of a luxurious indulgence than a skin-benefiting treatment. Still, it makes a great gift for someone special.
Kristen Bell
Kristen Bell uses Jergens Natural Glow Express Body Moisturizer ($7.98, Amazon.com). The product gradually builds color with each application, and contains a plethora of really hydrating ingredients (glycerin, mineral oil, dimethicone, vitamin E). I don’t personally use self-tanner (I like to rock the pale thing), but fellow blogger ForTheLoveOfBeauty is rather impressed with the product (review here).
Eva Mendes
Eva Mendes has incredible, voluminous hair, at least in my opinion. I was pretty excited to find out that her volume comes from T3 Plump Heat Seeking Liquid Hair Plumper ($38.00, Amazon.com), a new product created by T3 and renowned hairstylist Orlando Pita. The product claims to be activated by an ionic blow dryer. It contains a lot of keratin, the main protein component of hair. Although the actual effects of applying keratin to the hair are unknown, and the biotin in the product has never been found to have effects when applied topically (only when ingested), the product still contains vitamin E and protects hair from heat-styling. Just don’t forget to use hair sunscreen too!
Oprah Winfrey
The Queen of Daytime TV (and self-made billionaire) is a reported fan of Philosophy Hope in a Jar ($38.00, Amazon.com). However, as I found after reviewing the product on November 6, 2007, the product is moisturizing and a source of vitamin E, but is rather disappointing otherwise, without any other antioxidants and a small concentration of retinyl palmitate, I’m not a big fan.
Amy Smart
Amy proves she is smart intelligent ( ) with Korres Pomegranate Lip Butter ($9.00, Amazon.com). With antioxidant pomegranate to provide UVA-and UVB-damage control, inhibit matrix metalloproteinases, improve collagen production and inhibit hyperpigmentation, this is indeed a great lip balm. (Tint too!) One great alternative is Murad Vitalic Energizing Pomegranate Lip Therapy SPF 15 ($16.00, Amazon.com), with pomegranate and a built-in SPF.
If you like this article…
Let me know in comments below, or drop me an e-mail! If you like it, I will write more articles about celebrity skin and hair care in the future.
A special thanks to US Magazine (March 31, 2008 issue) and Oprah.com as acting as sources for this article!
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March 22nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Celebrity Skin Care, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Hair Treatments, Product Reviews, Quick Questions |
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According to New Jersey plastic surgeon Dr. Sam Rizk, M.D., in an interview in this week’s Star, there are several differences between ablative and non-ablative lasers:
Ablative Lasers
- Also called: Erbium, CO2
- Treatments needed: 1
- Used for: Wrinkle reduction, tissue tightening
- Relative downtime: Significant. Up to 10 days post-treatment.
Non-Ablative Lasers
- Also called: Fraxel, Affirm
- Treatments needed: Several. Number varies; usually at least 3.
- Used for: Sun damage, skin texture and discoloration treatment.
- Relative downtime: Not significant.
One note of caution
According to renowned dermatologist Dr. Jeannette Graf, M.D., in the April 2008 issue of Allure magazine, “Lasers [are the most overhyped anti-aging treatment] - particularly the new radio frequency machines such as Fraxel and Thermage. There’s a small percentage of people who do well with them, but there’s a huge percentage for whom they do nothing.” Thankfully, lasers are (for now) only administered by licensed professionals, so speak to your dermatologist or plastic surgeon to see if you a good candidate for any laser procedure.
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March 22nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Laser Treatments, Quick Questions |
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There are three major ways. The first is to see your dermatologist (sorry, but it needed to be said). A great source for finding a dermatologist locator is available through the American Academy of Dermatology here.
The second is to read Dr. Leslie Baumann’s The Skin Type Solution. After answering a 64-question survey, you tally up your answers and are assigned one of sixteen skin types. Dr. Baumann even gives specific product recommendations for each of the sixteen skin types. In short, I highly recommend it.
The third way is mentioned in the April 2008 issue of Oprah Magazine. Dr. Susan Taylor, M.D. gives beauty director Valerie Monroe the way you can find out without spending any money:
1. Wash your face with a cleanser designed for normal skin.
Two great options: Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser ($10.75, Amazon.com), or the new Clarisonic Skin Care Brush ($195.00, Sephora.com) used with the Clarisonic Gentle Hydro Cleanser ($25.00, Clarisonic.com), but any normal cleanser will do. Then rinse well, and pat dry with a soft towel.
2. Wait for one hour.
I personally suggest that you spend your time reading FutureDerm.com. *wink*
3. Evaluate your skin.
According to Dr. Taylor:
If it feels tight, ashy, or flaky- you have dry skin. (For advice on how to treat dry skin, please click here.)
If you’re oily only across the forehead, down the nose, and on the chin- you have combination skin.
If you need to blot your whole face with a tissue- you have oily skin.
If your face feels irritated or slightly itchy- you have sensitive skin.
4. Repeat this test four times a year.
This is because skin type can change according to the season. In fact, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, “dry skin occurs more during the fall and winter months because of low humidity and excessive bathing.” My advice would be to try to remember to repeat the test on the first day of each season (since it’s marked on the calendar anyway) and besides, what better way to start off a new season than with fresh skin care? )
Happy testing! Leave your comments below.
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March 16th, 2008
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futurederm |
Quick Questions |
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