Recently, I was surprised to find a line that gives whole new meaning to the word “cosmeceutical”: Exederm Ultra Sensitive Skin Care. Exederm is a line formulated for sensitive skin that contains no colors, parabens, lanolin, fragrance, sodium lauryl sulfate or formaldehyde. But what really surprised me about Exederm products was relatively high non-prescription concentration of hydrocortisone in the Flare Control Cream - 1%.
Hydrocortisone is a synthetic form of the stress hormone, cortisol, that used to be known as Compound E. Hydrocortisone was developed in order to treat allergic reactions and inflammation, and is used in concentrations of 0.5-1% (as in Exederm products) to treat sensitive skin symptoms. To treat sensitive skin and mild rashes, Exederm should be applied 2-3 times a week until symptoms cease.
Because hydrocortisone is absorbed in the bloodstream, it is well-known that prescription strength hydrocortisone can cause a variety of undesirable side effects (excess hair growth, burning, redness) with repeated use over time. For this reason, I personally use Exederm whenever I have contact dermatitis from trying a new product, and keep it in my medicine cabinet for those emergency cases. I wouldn’t personally use the Flare Control Cream for longer than two weeks at a time, to prevent side effects from occurring.
Exederm Cleansing Wash goes on without a lot of bubbles, which makes sense, with the low concentration of surfactants. Still, it leaves skin feeling clean without feeling dry or tight. The fact that the facial wash is completely free of oil, sodium lauryl sulfate, color, parabens, fragrance, formaldehyde and hydrocortisone makes it perfect for daily use.
Exederm Flare Control Cream contains 1% hydrocortisone, making it extremely effective but not suitable for long-term use. However, it is very effective against red, irritated, and itchy skin; in fact, I would venture to say that this is the next best thing to a prescription, since a doctor would give you 2-4% hydrocortisone, whereas this is 1%. I used it on a patch of poison ivy for the past 2 days (I just got a dog, and I chased her through a park…not a good idea, haha), and it really alleviated the itch. Ahhh….
Exederm Intensive Moisture Cream goes on light, but once on, you can tell that the second ingredient is super hydrator petrolatum. It is very hydrating and feels cooling on a rash. It doesn’t contain anti-aging ingredients or sunscreen, but it is a solid moisturizer that is suitable for anyone with sensitive skin.
Overall, I’m very impressed with the Exederm Ultra Sensitive Skin Care line. I especially love the Exederm Cleansing Wash for everyday and the Flare Control Cream for itchy redness for two week intervals. Overall, I give this line a solid 9/10. (High concentration of well-proven ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
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July 15th, 2008
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I am sorry for not writing for a few days…I took a few days off from this and my day job ( 
), and now I feel better, relaxed, rejuvenated, and ready to talk skin care!
With that said, an exciting new ingredient for hyperpigmentation is bearberry, derived from a type of dwarf shrub rumored to be enjoyed by bears (hence, I suppose, the Yogi-licious name.) Humans (particularly those with derm licenses) are currently developing a taste for bearberry as well: In a 2008 study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, certain active compounds found in bearberry, including arbutin, aloesin, flavonoids, hesperidin, and polyphenols, inhibit melanogenesis without melanocytotoxicity. The means of inhibition was varied, indicating that several bearberry successfully stops age spots from forming in several different ways. Promising!
A separate 2008 study found that bearberry lightened hyperpigmentation up to 70 percent, whereas the industry standard hydroquinone was effective in 78 percent of cases. However, due to incessant reports of irritation from hydroquinone use, as well as possible ochronosis development, bearberry holds a great deal of promise for those with sensitive or darker skin. In addition, bearberry has also been found to have antibacterial and antioxidant activity.
Due to its recent development as a whole ingredient (rather than just its extracts), bearberry found in very few products, including Amazonia Skin Balancing Cleanser ($18.00, Amazon.com).
Here’s to this exciting new ingredient!
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June 28th, 2008
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Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Spotlight On... |
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With swimsuit season under way, cellulite treatments fly off the shelves. One dermatological procedure that is popular is Lipomassage by Endermologie. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, Endermologie entails the use of a handheld machine that “kneads” areas of a patient that are covered in a nylon stocking (usually buttocks, hips, stomach, thighs) for 35 to 45 minutes. LPG, the company behind Endermologie, claims that the procedure has recently been improved (hence the “lipomassage”) so that results are available in as little as six sessions, although individual results may vary.
The FDA has approved LPG’s claim that Endermologie temporarily reduces the appearance of cellulite. In one company-affiliated, controlled, randomized study done on Lipomassage by Endermologie, it was found that lipolytic (fat-dissolving) activity of cutaneous and subcutaneous tissue was increased by 20-35%, with lipolytic activity measured as a result of glycerol production. Unfortunately, I could not find any other new studies on the new Lipomassage by Endermologie. The original Endermologie, however, has met with mixed reviews. For instance, one study in Aesthetic Plastic Surgery found that seven sessions of Endermologie reduced mean body index circumference by 1.38 cm, while fourteen sessions (twice as many) reduced mean body index circumference by 1.83 cm. And even though Endermologie was granted FDA approval for “temporary improvements” in cellulite, research published in the Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery reported that “the authors do not believe…[the treatment] is effective in improving the appearance of cellulite.”
Still, it’s difficult to determine if the improvements to Endermologie could make a dramatic difference. According to LPG, the new Lipomassage by Endermologie procedure entails three “rotating” steps that distinguish it from the original Endermologie:
• Roll’in : for areas of excess, dense and stubborn fat : body slimming
• Roll’out : for delicate, loose area of skin : firmer skin
• Roll’up : for redesigning the body’s folds : : body contouring
So what is a woman to do? Given the current information on Endermologie, I think I would wait before rushing to the dermatologist’s office for this treatment, at least until more research on the “new, improved” Endermologie is conducted and published. Until then, research demonstrates the following is effective:
- Maintain a steady weight. Gaining and losing weight too quickly can create irregular gaps of adipose (fatty) tissue in the skin, leading to skin’s bumpy appearance.
- Improve circulation to the area. This can be done through Endermologie or even simple massage.
- Reinforce the skin’s collagen and elastin production with retinol. According to a study by Draelos et. al, decreased circulation in the thighs and buttocks eventually leads to increased amounts of enzymes that destroy elastin and collagen (elastase and collagenase, respectively), which in turn lead to the gaps in the dermal structure where fat cells peek through. Retinoids can increase collagen and elastin production over time, helping to prevent future gaps in the dermal structure. I recommend Green Cream Level 6 ($43.00, Amazon.com) with 0.6% retinol under a hydrating cream, like Olay Quench Body Lotion ($18.64 for two, Amazon.com).
- Consult this old post for more!
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June 11th, 2008
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Cosmetic Dermatology News, Spotlight On... |
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The pathway of glutathione oxidation-reduction. Source: The Robert Edwards Group.
Glutathione is a potent antioxidant that is naturally found in the skin. Unfortunately, according to The Prescription for Nutritional Healing, glutathione levels decrease 30-35% over the course of one’s lifetime with normal aging. In the body, glutathione acts as an antioxidant and detoxifier, most prominently in the liver, kidneys, and bone marrow.
In the skin, glutathione has been found to be more prevalent in the epidermis (outermost layer of skin) than the dermis. Together with vitamin C, glutathione is actually one of the major water-soluble antioxidant metabolites naturally found in the cell, according to Dr. Rafaela M. Quiroga in the textbook Cosmetic Dermatology. Glutathione protects cells after an enzyme known as glutathione peroxidase catalyzes the reaction between glutathione and hydrogen peroxide, ultimately forming water and oxidized glutathione, which is a stable compound.
It has also been well-established that glutathione levels decrease with exposure to UV light, according to The Journal of Investigative Dermatology (amongst other sources), in a manner that is similar to other antioxidants, like vitamin C or vitamin E. With continued exposure to UV light, the lower levels of glutathione increase the skin’s susceptibility to UV-induced damage, as findings reported in Photochemistry and Photobiology suggest.
To supplement levels of glutathione, N-acetylcysteine is often taken as an oral supplement, which is converted to glutathione in the body. While typical dosages of N-acetylcysteine range from 250-1500 mg/day and no toxic level has been established as of yet by the FDA, check with your doctor to be safe, as side effects have been reported in some individuals.
Glutathione has also been shown to be an effective antioxidant when topically applied to the skin. However, the effects of glutathione can be enhanced by either lipoic acid or vitamin C, because these ingredients effectively recycle the antioxidant power of glutathione. For this reason, glutathione is best used in formulations with lipoic acid and/or vitamin C. One excellent formulation is Perricone Pore Refining Concealer ($35.00, Sephora.com), with glutathione and lipoic acid. Another is Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Serum ($38.00, Sephora.com), with glutathione and vitamin C.
Overall, glutathione is a promising antioxidant. Because its levels naturally decrease with age, leaving the skin more susceptible to UV-induced damage, I think it seems like a good idea to use a cream or serum with glutathione. As always, consult with your derm if you have any concerns!
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May 15th, 2008
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Recently, cosmetics companies have been having a field day trailing on the success of Bare Escentuals, each releasing their own formulation of mineral powder. Because it’s rather difficult to tell them all apart, FutureDerm is here to come to the rescue. To find out which has the best ingredients, as well as the best texture, read on…
Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation claims to “enhance skin clarity, tone, and texture.” Ingredients-wise, it lives up to the claims, with a plethora of skin-beneficial ingredients. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) are one of my favorite combinations of ingredients, and are well-touted throughout this blog. Vitamin C and vitamin E synergistically enhance the power of one another, and have been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines, and have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen. One further thing I love: vitamin C is often unstable in formulations, but according to Dr. Burgess’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, “the most stable vitamin C preparations remain anhydrous or completely water-free,” like in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation.
Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation also contains retinyl palmitate. Although retinyl palmitate was found in a 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology to be less effective in penetrating the skin than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit the collagen-stimulating, smoothing, and wrinkle-reducing properties of retinol over time. In addition, retinyl palmitate has also been shown to be less irritating than retinol, which makes it promising in a powder formulation.
The final ingredient in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation that I love is soybean flour. Soybean has been shown in numerous studies to exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, to stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid production of human fibroblasts in vitro, and to lighten the appearance of sunspots after use for two weeks.
As far as product application goes, Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation goes on easily, even over sunscreen. The high concentration of mica and silica in the product makes it reflect the light, while the dimethicone makes it thicker than other Neutrogena powders I have tried in the past. It covers well and looks great, and I think it is the best choice if you are looking for light to medium coverage with skin-beneficial ingredients. Just one caveat: do not expect this or any other powder to give you sun protection. Although it says SPF 20, any powder product requires about 14 times the amount of normal powder application to receive the SPF listed on the package, so a powder with an SPF of 20 is really providing an SPF of about 1.2 with normal use.
Active Ingredients: Titanium dioxide. Inactive Ingredients: Mica, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Dimethicone, Oryza Sativa Starch (Rice), Magnesium Myristate, Methicone, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Pantothenic Acid, Panthenol, Glycine Soja Flour (Soybean), Alumina, Silk Powder, Water, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, May Contain: Iron Oxides, Nylon 12, Carmine
Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 claims to be “a long-wear formula” that “keeps pores out of trouble.” That’s always good - I was pretty upset the last time I had to go downtown and bail my pores out. (Sorry, I’ll stop putting bad humor in here, haha.)
At any rate, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 is a solid talc-based formulation. Suitable for dry skin, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 contains sodium hyaluronate, which in its unprotonated form as hyaluronic acid is a natural moisturizing factor that binds up to 1000 times its weight in water, according to one of my favorite dermatologists, Dr. Leslie Baumann. However, sodium hyaluronate, with similar water-binding abilities, is commonly used instead of hyaluronic acid in skincare products due to its greater chemical stability (Kewpie) and still-hydrating capabilities.
When applied, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 feels thicker than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation, and I feel that it provides greater (heavier) coverage. I like this product better than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder for dry skin types or for those women who would like more coverage. Still, like with the Neutrogena product, don’t expect to get an SPF of more than 1 with this product.
Ingredients (01 Fair And 04 Neutral)
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide 13.00% • Octinoxate 2.00%
Ingredients: Talc • Dimethicone • Nylon-12 • Silica • Squalane • Boron Nitride • Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer • Cetyl Caprylate • Diisostearyl Malate • Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate • Methicone • Aluminum Hydroxide • Glycerin • Sodium Hyaluronate • Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate • Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate • Palmitoyl Proline • Alumina • Tocopherol • Palmitic Acid • 1,2-Hexanediol • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate • Tin Oxide • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Iron Oxides (Ci 77499, Ci 77492, Ci 77491) • Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891)]
Ingredients (07 Deep)
Active Ingredient: Titanium Dioxide 6.90%
Ingredients: Talc • Silica • Isostearyl Palmitate • Methicone • Sodium Hyaluronate • Triethoxycaprylylsilane • Nylon-12 • Glycerin • Alumina • Tetrasodium Edta • Chlorphenesin • Potassium Sorbate • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891) • Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499)]
Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is free of talc, oil, or fragrance. Of all three powders, Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is definitely the formulation closest to Bare Escentuals, with mica, bismuth oxychloride, and iron oxides. The consistency of Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is also the most similar to Bare Escentuals, with a half-foundation/half-powder type duality, and mastery of the application technique is a must.
Ascorbyl palmitate (a form of vitamin C) and tocopherol (vitamin E) provide some additional sun protection, while retinyl palmitate helps to refine skin texture and to improve cell turnover over time. The product feels like a heavier powder but covers like a good foundation, and stays put all day. If you are looking for a mineral powder experience that is completely distinct from normal powders, then I would recommend Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup over the other two. (And again, wear sunscreen under it!!!)
Ingredients
MICA
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
KAOLIN
ZINC PCA
SODIUM HYALURONATE
SODIUM PCA
LECITHIN
UREA
C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE
SILICA DIMETHYL SILYLATE
WATER/EAU
LAURYL PCA
TREHALOSE
ASCORBYL PALMITATE
ATELOCOLLAGEN
PHENYL TRIMETHICONE
BETA-CAROTENE
POLYQUATERNIUM-51
RETINYL PALMITATE
SODIUM CHONDROITIN SULFATE
TOCOPHEROL
NYLON-12
METHYLPARABEN
PROPYLPARABEN
MAY CONTAIN:
IRON OXIDES
BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE
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May 14th, 2008
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Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetics, Dry Skin Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Spotlight On..., Sunblocks, sunscreen |
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As far as trace minerals in the skin go, you don’t get one much more abundant than zinc: the skin contains about 6% of all the zinc in the body, according to Joy Bauer, MS, RD, CDN and author of Food Cures. In the skin, zinc is responsible for protecting cell membranes and maintaining skin’s collagen levels. Dr. Howard Murad further sings zinc’s praises in The Murad Method: “Zinc is truly a workhorse ingredient…It protects the skin from UV light and other irritants and infection from bacteria and fungi…enhances the effects of vitamins A and E, and soothes irritation.” In fact, patients with severe zinc deficiencies can develop redness and pustules, as well as small blisters, crusting, and flaking lesions on the scalp, genitalia, and around the mouth, according to Dr. Audrey Kunin, dermatologist and founder of DERMADoctor.com. Kunin also notes that zinc deficiency may lead to hair loss.
According to Bauer, zinc is naturally found in all of the following sources:
- oysters
- lean beef
- crab
- ostrich
- pork tenderloin
- peanut butter
- wheat germ
- turkey
- veal
- pumpkin seeds
- chicken
- chickpeas (garbanzo beans)
- fat-free yogurt
- fortified whole grain cereals
- pine nuts
- cashews
- sunflower seeds
- lima beans
- lentils
- pecans
- cheese (fat-free, reduced-fat)
- fat-free milk
- almonds
- walnuts
- peanuts
- black-eyed peas (not these ones, hee hee)
- green peas
However, Bauer strongly advises not to take above 100% USDA daily values of zinc (15 mg per day). According to Bauer, “Excess zinc can inhibit the body’s ability to absorb copper, a minor but necessary mineral…[High levels of zinc] can depress the immune system and block copper’s availability in the body.” In fact, Bauer advises patients who ingest 80 mg of zinc/day (usually to treat macular degeneration) to also take 2 mg copper/day.
When applied topically, zinc has been shown to have significant antioxidant activity in this 2002 study in the International Journal of Dermatology, amongst others. According to the study, there are two mechanisms by which zinc may provide antioxidant protection: in the first, “zinc ions may replace redox active molecules, such as iron and copper, at critical sites in cell membranes and proteins; alternatively, zinc ions may induce the synthesis of metallothionein, sulfhydryl-rich proteins that protect against free radicals.” At any rate, zinc appears to be an effective ingredient in skin care products.
All in all, zinc is a pretty exciting ingredient, whether ingested or applied topically! Zinc is available orally in most multivitamins and the Murad Pure Skin Supplement ($39.50, Amazon.com), as well as the Murad Acne Spot Treatment ($12.00, Amazon.com). As always, talk to your doctor when starting a new program.
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May 7th, 2008
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Acne Treatments, Spotlight On... |
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Biotin, a member of the B-vitamin family also known as vitamin H, is often recommended in formulations for the skin, hair, and nails. While biotin has no documented benefits for the skin, it is still a dermatologist’s friend because of its tremendous benefits for the hair and nails. According to Dr. Audrey Kunin, board-certified Kansas City dermatologist and founder of DERMADoctor.com, biotin deficiencies lead to hair loss and fragility, while nails become similarly fragile and brittle.
A study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology in 2005 found that daily supplementation of 2.5 mg biotin lead to 25% thicker nails over the course of 15 months. A second study revealed that 63% of 44 patients experienced improvements of their brittle nails after just 6 months, while 37% had no change.
It has been reported that the only supplement that can improve nail growth is biotin. It has been reported that 80% of people with brittle nails who switched to a biotin-rich diet had normal nails within a few months. For this reason, Kunin and other experts recommend taking at least 2500-3000 mcg (2.5-3.0 mg) of biotin per day. Two great products that contain biotin are DermaVite Dietary Supplement ($19.75 for 60-day supply of 600 mg/day, DermaDoctor.com) and GNC Hair, Skin, and Nails Formula with biotin and lutein for the skin ($17.99 for 60-day supply of 300 mg/day, Drugstore.com). According to Dr. Kunin, biotin is also available in brewer’s yeast, corn, barley, soybeans, walnuts, peanuts, molasses, cauliflower, milk, egg yolks, and fortified cereals.
Keep in mind that the benefits of biotin have only been shown through oral supplementation. Research has not demonstrated effects for topically applying biotin to the hair or nails, so keep that in mind before you buy anything but biotin in supplement form!
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May 4th, 2008
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For all mothers do every day of the year, there’s nothing better than giving Mom some luxury and comfort for Mother’s Day. And, in my personal opinion, nothing says luxury and comfort like thoughtful skin care. Here are some really special finds online that fit the bill perfectly:
1. Create a free website for Mom on Your Mom’s Philosophy.com. On Your Mom’s Philosophy.com, you can create a site about your mom and share your favorite stories, pictures, and videos - all for free. Other visitors will rate your page, and if yours is one of the top 20 ranked sites, your page will be featured on Philosophy.com on Mother’s Day as a finalist. From the 20 finalists, online voters will select one to receive the grand prize, a philosophy gift basket valued at $250. As an added bonus, everyone who creates a page will have a chance to win a $1200 shopping spree on Philosophy.com. I truly love this idea!
And, of course, philosophy has excellent Mother’s Day gift sets too. One of my favorites is the philosophy Amazing Grace Deluxe Gift Set ($85.00, Drugstore.com). For $85, the set includes an 8 oz. 3-in-1 shower gel, an 8 oz conditioner, an 8 oz body emulsion, a 4 oz hand cream, and a 2 oz fragrance. Best of all, the set features the peace-inducing Amazing Grace motto: How you climb the mountain is just as important as how you get down the mountain, and so, as it is with life, for which so many of us becomes one big gigantic test followed by one big gigantic lesson. In the end, it all comes down to one word: grace. it’s how you accept winning and losing, good luck and bad luck, the darkness and the light. So true - and so “Mom”.
2. Protect Mom’s skin with Celazome Serum Vitae for day ($54.00, SkinStore.com). Although my favorite skin serum is still Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, Celazome Serum Vitae is making a strong case for itself, with a high concentration of magnesium ascorbyl palmitate (a more stable form of vitamin C than in CE Ferulic) and vitamin E, plus anti-aging retinol, soothing aloe and lavender, and hydrating dimethicone and hyaluronic acid. Dr. Leslie Baumann even recommends it on her blog as a “top 5 spring skin care product.” To save money, sign up at eBates.com for free before you buy, and receive 8% cash back on your purchase, plus $10 bonus if you sign up before May 31, 2008!
I say this product is great for day because it contains vitamins C and E. which have been shown to enhance the effects of sunscreen. However, retinol can make the skin photosensitive, so if you use this product during the day, be sure to use it under a compatible moisturizer with sunscreen.
3. …and Lindi Face Serum for night ($40.00, LindiSkin.net). Available in lavender and citrus scents, Lindi Skin Face Serum contains a very high concentration of astaxanthin extract, a potent antioxidant. It also contains a high concentration of soybean oil, antioxidant vitamin E in two forms, hydrating ceramide 2, collagen-stimulating palmitoyl oligopeptide and ascorbyl palmitate, and soothing aloe. Despite the plethora of ingredients, Lindi Skin products are reportedly very gentle for the skin, as they are developed by a team of scientists for cancer patients undergoing radiation therapy and chemotherapy, who often experience nausea from skin care products due to scent, irritation, and even inflammation or stinging.
4. Give Mom sophisticated luxury with John Varvatos eau de parfum ($67.28, Amazon.com). I recently tried this perfume, and someone gave me the perfect term to describe it: “Mature.” A rich ambery floral with “fruity nuances”, it is definitely a scent for a sophisticated woman. According to the scent’s website, it product exudes “warmth, delicacy, elegance and sensuality.” New for the Spring, it’s one for the sophisticate for sure.
Here’s to great skin for Mom for Mother’s Day! Be sure to share some of your favorite Mother’s Day gift ideas too!
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May 2nd, 2008
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Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Dry Skin Treatments, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Quick Questions, Special Offers, Spotlight On..., Wrinkle Treatments |
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I must admit, most of the time, if the FDA approves an ingredient, I am reassured after reading studies and expert opinions that it is fine. However, I was recently surprised to find that sodium lauryl sulfate, a very common detergent added to cleansers largely for the bubbling effect, is in fact a known skin irritant. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology text, “[Sodium lauryl sulfate] is such a consistent irritator for skin with an impaired barrier that it is actually used in ‘challenge patch tests’ to evaluate the barrier function of skin…it strips the natural lipids from the skin, disrupting the barrier and rendering it more susceptible to external irritants.” In The DERMADoctor Skinstruction Manual, dermatologist Dr. Audrey Kunin further advises that sodium lauryl sulfate has been additionally blamed on “chapped lips and perioral dermatitis, a rash around the mouth.” For this reason, Kunin advises those with skin irritation around the mouth to use a toothpaste without sodium lauryl sulfate, like Squigle Enamel Saver Toothpaste ($8.00, Amazon.com).
In addition, sodium lauryl sulfate can also be damaging to the hair, as reiterated in this 1999 study amongst hairdressers. For this reason, shampoos not containing sodium lauryl sulfate or similar irritants are advised, like Phillip Kingsley Moisture Balancing Shampoo and Conditioner ($18.50 each, Amazon.com). After trying this sodium lauryl sulfate-free shampoo, my hair felt very clean and looked shiny, although it was more smooth and sleek than voluminous. If smooth and sleek is what you seek (haha), then this may be a good sodium lauryl sulfate-free formulation for you. (P.S.- Although this shampoo and conditioner do contain some other potential irritants, they appear to be lower than the concentrations listed below for potential irritation.)
According to the journal Contact Dermatitis, the following ingredients were said to display “similar” signs of irritation to 2% sodium lauryl sulfate:
- 5% sodium C12-15 pareth sulfate
- 5% sodium cocoyl isethionate
- 10% disodium laureth sulfosuccinate
- 10% sodium cocoamphoacetate
- 10% cocamide DEA
- 10% cocamidopropyl betaine
- 10% lauryl glucoside
For this reason, if you have sensitive skin or have noticed irritation from a skin care product recently, try an alternative without sodium lauryl sulfate or any of the above listed alternatives. Hopefully it will be the solution!
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May 1st, 2008
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Spotlight On..., The Worst Things For Your Skin |
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Every once in a while, a skin care ingredient comes along that I am really excited about. That is the case with spin traps, also known as phenyl butyl nitrone. According to Dr. Cheryl Burgess’ Cosmetic Dermatology, spin traps are a ‘new’ form of antioxidant that have the ability to catch an electron as it spins out of control and actually returns it to its normal orbit before it can do any damage. In other words, catching a free radical before it is free to do damage! According to Cosmetic Dermatology, the protective abilities of spin traps comes from their modulation of proinflammatory cytokines.
Spin traps have been shown to prevent free radical induction in the substantia nigra (a portion of the brain) in rats, according to Neuroscience Letters. Numerous studies by Dr. J. Carney and his associates, including this 1996 study in Radiation Research, have shown that phenyl butyl nitrone has anti-inflammatory and age-reducing effects.
If you would like to try spin traps, they are available in the Your Best Face skin care line ($120-160, ybf-skincare.com, pictured above). Although I have not tried the line personally, it features firming peptides like palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 as well as spin traps (phenyl butyl nitrone), so the products should firm the skin, stimulate collagen production, and serve as unique antioxidants in the skin. If you are looking for a nighttime antioxidant treatment that features firming peptides, this may be a good fit for you!
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April 29th, 2008
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Antioxidant Treatments, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Spotlight On... |
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