For all of you out there who love a good sunscreen as much as I do, there is new hope: Tinosorb (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine). Unlike some other sunscreens, Tinosorb is highly photostable, retaining its levels of UV protection even after exposure to UV rays. Yet, the best part of Tinosorb is that it is the most effective UV protection available for both UVA and UVB rays, according to a 2007 study published in the European journal Pharmazie. Tinosorb’s secret? It is not just a physical sunscreen that prevents UV rays from hitting the skin, or just a chemical sunscreen that prevents transmitted rays from damaging the skin, but instead, works as both, shielding and protecting the skin. Pretty incredible!
Based on current studies, it does not seem that long-term exposure to Tinosorb has any damaging effects, nor does it seem that irritation is common. Still, Tinosorb is a relatively new ingredient, and further studies need to be done to determine the ingredient’s true side effects, if any.
One further downside to this phenomenal sunscreen: Tinosorb has not yet acquired US FDA approval, as the process takes longer in the U.S. than in Europe, Asia, or Canada. According to MyWomanStuff.com, Tinosorb is available with powerhouse sunscreen Mexoryl in the European and Asian-marketed L’Oreal UV Perfect (iMallSingapore.com).
Can’t bring yourself to order overseas or to wait for FDA approval? Try using Tinosorb in the wash: According to the textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, an additional way to get the benefits of Tinosorb is to wash your clothes with it, as Tinosorb has a disulfonic acid triazine backbone that enables it to bind to cotton fabrics. The product is RIT Sunguard Laundry Treatment ($20.00, Amazon.com).
I’ll be updating when more information is available about Tinosorb products!
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July 22nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Sunblocks, sunscreen |
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There are certain rumors about skin care that sound so logical, people assume they must be true. Unfortunately, sometimes the right answer is the one that combats common sense! Here are five of the most common myths about summer skin care I have recently heard:
1. SPF 100 means 100% protection.
Errrt, wrong! An SPF of 100 means that the sunscreen blocks 99.0% of UV rays. And yes, that means an SPF of 200 is not only possible, but also would theoretically only block 99.5% of UV rays. How did I get these numbers? The amount of UVB an SPF is effective at blocking can be estimated using the following algorithm from dermatologist Dr. Rachel Herschenfeld: SPF means that 1/(SPF number) of rays goes through. That means that SPF 30 allows 1/30 UVB rays, or 3.3% through, blocking about 96.6% of UVB rays, and SPF 50 allows 1/50 UVB rays, or 2.0% through, blocking about 98.0% of UVB rays. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, über-derm and author of Cosmetic Dermatology, the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) commonly listed on products refers to the amount of UVB protection, measured by the time it takes for a person without sunscreen versus a person with sunscreen to show a erythemal skin reaction (i.e., to show redness).
2. A base tan protects you from future sun damage.
Yes, it is true that darker-skinned women naturally have a slight SPF built-in to their skin (as if Halle Berry and Iman weren’t enough to make me jealous already, *sighs*). However, women who are lighter-skinned should not get a “base tan” to prevent future damage. For one, you will incur free radical and structural damage while trying to achieve the build-up of melanin that yields the bit of sun protection. And two, let’s not forget that everyone — of all skin tones — still needs sun protection: “[Melanin build-up provides an umbrella of sun protection], but the umbrella is porous - you’re still getting DNA damage, which can lead to wrinkles and skin cancer,” says NYC dermatologist Dr. Doris Day in the June issue of Allure. In other words, everyone needs sunscreen, and while dark skin naturally provides a bit of beneficial SPF, tanning lighter skin to get there isn’t benefiting you in the long run.
3. Self-tanner saves you from free radical damage.
Yes and no on this one. Yes, there is nothing proven to naturally age your faster UV light, which does pretty much everything from depleting collagen levels to inducing free radical production at monstrous levels. And if you use self-tanner and stay out of the sun as a result, then you are saving your skin. However, if you use self-tanner and then go out into the sun, you could be causing more damage: According to a 2007 study published in Germany (and cited in Allure), for 24 hours after applying a self-tanner, the skin is more susceptible to free-radical damage once being exposed to the sun.
In other words, best case scenario: avoid self-tanner, wear sunscreen, and avoid the sun between 10-4 P.M. except for 15 minutes/week (for adequate vitamin D production). Next best scenario: use self-tanner, wear sunscreen, and avoid the sun between 10-4 P.M. except for 15 minutes/week. Worst case scenario: use self-tanner, don’t wear sunscreen, and go out into the sun. Eeeeek!
4. “If my powder contains SPF, that’s enough protection.”
Oh dear. If you want to know how much SPF you are really getting from a product, divide the SPF number by 14, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann, über-dermatologist from the University of Miami. According to Baumann, scientists estimate the SPF of a facial powder assuming 1200 mg of product is used with each application, but the average woman only applies 85 mg of powder at a time, 14 times less than the estimated amount. In other words, if you want adequate sun protection, wear a moisturizer or sunscreen with SPF under your powder, even if your powder contains sunscreen.
5. SPF = UPF.
UPF, the rating system for sun protective clothing, has been getting a lot of press recently because sun protective clothing is currently popular and - dare I say it - increasingly stylish. However, unlike SPF, which quantifies only UVB protection, UPF is a number that incorporates both UVA and UVB (broad-spectrum) protection.
In general, according to Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, a UPF of 10 equals protection of about SPF 30, so a UPF of 50 equals protection of about SPF 150 (i.e., lets 1/150 rays through, providing 99.25% protection). Pretty cool, huh? 
****
In short, rumors were made to be about Hollywood celebrity scandals, not your skin. Let’s put an end to these 5 skin care myths, shall we? 
Let me know your thoughts! After all, until June 19, 2008, every comment on FutureDerm.com counts as 1 entry in the $500 skin care giveaway from Skinmedix.com!
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May 22nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Commentary, Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Sunblocks, The Worst Things For Your Skin, sunscreen |
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Ever wish you had a dermatologist at your side when you were packing your beach bag? Never fear…six top derms reveal their must-haves in the June 2008 issue of Allure magazine:
Dr. Francesca J. Fusco of Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City (an experienced, established Manhattan derm):
Dr. Leslie Baumann of the University of Miami School of Medicine in Miami (one of my favorite all-time derms for her incredible knowledge and research background in dermatology):
Dr. Doris Day of the NYU Medical Center in New York City (and the name behind Good Skin products at Kohl’s!):
Dr. Lisa Airan, New York City dermatologist (and quite glam, I might add, this derm is often in magazines like Vogue!)
Dr. Diane Berson of the New York University Medical Center (a well-rounded derm with lots of skin cancer experience)
Dr. Katie Rodan of Stanford University School of Medicine in Stanford, California (of Pro-Activ and Rodan & Fields fame)
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May 19th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Interviews, Sunblocks, sunscreen |
11 comments
Recently, cosmetics companies have been having a field day trailing on the success of Bare Escentuals, each releasing their own formulation of mineral powder. Because it’s rather difficult to tell them all apart, FutureDerm is here to come to the rescue. To find out which has the best ingredients, as well as the best texture, read on…
Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation claims to “enhance skin clarity, tone, and texture.” Ingredients-wise, it lives up to the claims, with a plethora of skin-beneficial ingredients. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) are one of my favorite combinations of ingredients, and are well-touted throughout this blog. Vitamin C and vitamin E synergistically enhance the power of one another, and have been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines, and have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen. One further thing I love: vitamin C is often unstable in formulations, but according to Dr. Burgess’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, “the most stable vitamin C preparations remain anhydrous or completely water-free,” like in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation.
Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation also contains retinyl palmitate. Although retinyl palmitate was found in a 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology to be less effective in penetrating the skin than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit the collagen-stimulating, smoothing, and wrinkle-reducing properties of retinol over time. In addition, retinyl palmitate has also been shown to be less irritating than retinol, which makes it promising in a powder formulation.
The final ingredient in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation that I love is soybean flour. Soybean has been shown in numerous studies to exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, to stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid production of human fibroblasts in vitro, and to lighten the appearance of sunspots after use for two weeks.
As far as product application goes, Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation goes on easily, even over sunscreen. The high concentration of mica and silica in the product makes it reflect the light, while the dimethicone makes it thicker than other Neutrogena powders I have tried in the past. It covers well and looks great, and I think it is the best choice if you are looking for light to medium coverage with skin-beneficial ingredients. Just one caveat: do not expect this or any other powder to give you sun protection. Although it says SPF 20, any powder product requires about 14 times the amount of normal powder application to receive the SPF listed on the package, so a powder with an SPF of 20 is really providing an SPF of about 1.2 with normal use.
Active Ingredients: Titanium dioxide. Inactive Ingredients: Mica, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Dimethicone, Oryza Sativa Starch (Rice), Magnesium Myristate, Methicone, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Pantothenic Acid, Panthenol, Glycine Soja Flour (Soybean), Alumina, Silk Powder, Water, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, May Contain: Iron Oxides, Nylon 12, Carmine
Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 claims to be “a long-wear formula” that “keeps pores out of trouble.” That’s always good - I was pretty upset the last time I had to go downtown and bail my pores out. (Sorry, I’ll stop putting bad humor in here, haha.)
At any rate, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 is a solid talc-based formulation. Suitable for dry skin, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 contains sodium hyaluronate, which in its unprotonated form as hyaluronic acid is a natural moisturizing factor that binds up to 1000 times its weight in water, according to one of my favorite dermatologists, Dr. Leslie Baumann. However, sodium hyaluronate, with similar water-binding abilities, is commonly used instead of hyaluronic acid in skincare products due to its greater chemical stability (Kewpie) and still-hydrating capabilities.
When applied, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 feels thicker than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation, and I feel that it provides greater (heavier) coverage. I like this product better than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder for dry skin types or for those women who would like more coverage. Still, like with the Neutrogena product, don’t expect to get an SPF of more than 1 with this product.
Ingredients (01 Fair And 04 Neutral)
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide 13.00% • Octinoxate 2.00%
Ingredients: Talc • Dimethicone • Nylon-12 • Silica • Squalane • Boron Nitride • Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer • Cetyl Caprylate • Diisostearyl Malate • Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate • Methicone • Aluminum Hydroxide • Glycerin • Sodium Hyaluronate • Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate • Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate • Palmitoyl Proline • Alumina • Tocopherol • Palmitic Acid • 1,2-Hexanediol • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate • Tin Oxide • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Iron Oxides (Ci 77499, Ci 77492, Ci 77491) • Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891)]
Ingredients (07 Deep)
Active Ingredient: Titanium Dioxide 6.90%
Ingredients: Talc • Silica • Isostearyl Palmitate • Methicone • Sodium Hyaluronate • Triethoxycaprylylsilane • Nylon-12 • Glycerin • Alumina • Tetrasodium Edta • Chlorphenesin • Potassium Sorbate • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891) • Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499)]
Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is free of talc, oil, or fragrance. Of all three powders, Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is definitely the formulation closest to Bare Escentuals, with mica, bismuth oxychloride, and iron oxides. The consistency of Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is also the most similar to Bare Escentuals, with a half-foundation/half-powder type duality, and mastery of the application technique is a must.
Ascorbyl palmitate (a form of vitamin C) and tocopherol (vitamin E) provide some additional sun protection, while retinyl palmitate helps to refine skin texture and to improve cell turnover over time. The product feels like a heavier powder but covers like a good foundation, and stays put all day. If you are looking for a mineral powder experience that is completely distinct from normal powders, then I would recommend Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup over the other two. (And again, wear sunscreen under it!!!)
Ingredients
MICA
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
KAOLIN
ZINC PCA
SODIUM HYALURONATE
SODIUM PCA
LECITHIN
UREA
C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE
SILICA DIMETHYL SILYLATE
WATER/EAU
LAURYL PCA
TREHALOSE
ASCORBYL PALMITATE
ATELOCOLLAGEN
PHENYL TRIMETHICONE
BETA-CAROTENE
POLYQUATERNIUM-51
RETINYL PALMITATE
SODIUM CHONDROITIN SULFATE
TOCOPHEROL
NYLON-12
METHYLPARABEN
PROPYLPARABEN
MAY CONTAIN:
IRON OXIDES
BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE
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May 14th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetics, Dry Skin Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Spotlight On..., Sunblocks, sunscreen |
6 comments
According to the advertisements, Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula ($12.99, Walgreens.com) will help to reverse signs of past sun damage like fine lines, discolorations, and sun spots, as well as protect against future damage.
The product claims to contain 2x the vitamin C of the usual Garnier Nutritioniste formulas. Garnier Nutritioniste products seem to always use vitamin C in the form of ascorbyl glucoside, which has been found to be more stable than L-ascorbic acid at a wider range of pH and temperatures. While it has been found that ascorbyl glucoside has the collagen-stimulating, antioxidant, skin-lightening effects of L-ascorbic acid, the only downside is that the exact concentration of ascorbyl glucoside in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is not given, whereas it is established in certain L-ascorbic acid formulations like Cellex-C contain 15% L-ascorbic acid.
Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula also contains magnesium. Magnesium has been shown to improve barrier function recovery in the skin of mice, and the company claims that magnesium also “energizes and hydrates” the skin.
The last main ingredient, lycopene, I have mixed feelings about. On the one hand, lycopene, the caroten that gives tomatoes its red pigment, has been reported by Dr. G. Todorov to be the best antioxidant among carotens, with at least twice the free-radical scavenging ability as ß-carotene. Lycopene also serves as a natural sunscreen, providing a UVB of about 3, and it is speculated that lycopene could improve cell-to-cell junctions, theoretically improving skin’s texture. A 2002 study by Offord et. al. further found that lycopene and vitamin E together, as in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, can suppress the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (collagen-digesting) mRNA. Unfortunately, the use of lycopene at all is questionable at this time, as a 2005 study by Yeh et. al demonstrated that topical application of lycopene “enhances UVA-induced oxidative stress in [mouse] fibroblast (skin) cells, and…under UVA irradiation, lycopene may produce oxidative products that are responsible for the prooxidant effects.” Although this study was done on the mouse, based on these results and similar from Offord et. al., it does not seem advisable to use lycopene in skin care products at this time.
According to reviews of Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, the product is light, non-greasy, and smells delightful. Women largely report after a few weeks’ use that their skin feels softer and smoother. However, the eradication of age spots may take a while, as blogger E. Harmon notes that she had not noticed a “huge difference in the tone or brightness” of her skin, although notes that the effect may occur “with continued use over time.” I think it all depends on the amount of ascorbyl glucoside in the product, which hasn’t been reported.
Overall, I think Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is a quality product, though it may not be as effective as products with a higher concentration of vitamin C, like Cellex-C. Still, it should improve skin’s texture, provide sun protection, and may eradicate sun spots over time. I give it a solid 7/10 (high concentration of proven ingredients: 1.5/3. New technology: 1.5/3, for the as-of-yet questionable inclusion of lycopene. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 1/1.)
Ingredients in Garnier Nutritioniste Anti Sun Damage Moisture Lotion SPF 28
Water; Isononyl Isononanote; Glycerin; Cyclohexasiloxane; Propylene Glycol; Ethylhexyl Palmitate; Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate; Butylene Glycol; Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; Dimethicone; Nylon-66; Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer; Glyceryl Stearate; Behenyl Alcohol; Solanium Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract*; Ascorbyl Glucoside**; Tocopheryl Acetate; Actindia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Water; Rosa Canina Fruit Oil; Capryloyl Salicylic Acid; Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate; Caprylyl Glycol; Magnesium PCA***; Manganese PCA***; Mica; Sodium PCA***; Titanium Dioxide; Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethyl Isosorbide; PEG-8 Laurate; Disodium EDTA; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Octyldodecanol; Polycaprolactone; Sodium Citrate; Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate; Sodium Hydroxide; Xanthan Gum; Methylparaben; Propylparaben; Butylparaben; Fragrance; Linalool; Benzyl Salicylate; Limonene; Geraniol; Citral; *Lycopene; **Vitamin C; ***Magnesium
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April 30th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Sunblocks, Wrinkle Treatments, sunscreen |
one comment
Photo source Wmagazine.com
As a college student, I am all-too-aware of the cost of skin care products. At the same time, however, a product comes along every once in a while that makes me open my wallet. That’s the case with the new RéVive Filtre de Soleil SPF 45 ($130.00, RéViveSkincare.com).
The highlight of this sunscreen is not its superior protection - although it contains physical sunscreen (zinc oxide) and chemical sunscreen, Neutrogena’s Helioplex has been documented to provide the most photostable UVA protection of any sunscreen on the market. No, the beauty of the new RéVive Filtre de Soleil SPF 45 is that it drinks into the skin without leaving any white residue. According to the May 2008 issue of W magazine, RéVive company founder Dr. Gregory Bays Brown says this sunscreen was the company’s “trickiest product to perfect.” For daily sunscreen fanatics like me, this is one product I’ll be breaking out on days I have important places to go and don’t feel like worrying about telltale sunscreen streaks staring back at me from the mirror.
Who is RéVive Skincare?
According to BeautyProductsCompared.com, RéVive Skincare was started by plastic surgeon Dr. Gregory Bays Brown, who originally studied epidermal growth factors (EGFs) as a means to treat burn victims. When he found that the EGFs accelerated the healing of the skin in his patients, Dr. Brown went on to develop the technology as in skin care creams to treat aging.
Although I am not very familiar with the line, RéVive Skincare products appear to contain a lot of growth factors, such as epidermal growth factor, insulin-like growth factor, and keratinocyte growth factor. Because there is less research into growth factors than ingredients like antioxidants, retinoids, and niacinamide, I personally am waiting a few years to try products with human growth factors, when there are more studies done from a greater number of sources. However, research done thus far has been promising: In a 2007 study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, subjects used Neocutis’ Bio-Restorative Skin Cream (with human growth factors originally derived from fetal fibroblasts) on half of their face for sixty days. After the 60-day period, 83% of the subjects showed an improved average wrinkle score in the eye area, while 50% showed an improved average wrinkle score in the mouth area. However, it must be noted that the study was not double-blind or placebo-controlled.
Overall Opinion
I’m pretty excited about RéVive Filtre de Soleil SPF 45 ($130.00, RéViveSkincare.com), and can’t wait to finally be able to get superior sun protection without the telltale white streaks!
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April 19th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Product Reviews, Sunblocks, sunscreen |
one comment
If you pick up one thing in Kohl’s Beauty Department, make it All Bright Moisturizing Sunscreen SPF 30 ($12.00, Kohl’s.com). The sunscreen brightens the skin with glucosamine, and is one of the cheapest sources of vitamin C & vitamin E (one of my favorite combinations!), firming peptides, and effective sun protection out there. As an added bonus, the product is highly portable, and I love it as a hand cream. To learn more about the research behind the product’s ingredients, read on.
Glucosamine
Glucosamine should help prevent sun spot development, and may decrease the appearance of existing sunspots somewhat. According to the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, glucosamine has been found to inhibit melanin production in the skin by down-regulating melanin gene expression. Although the exact mechanism by which this occurs is not known, it is speculated that glucosamine plays a role in inhibiting enzymatic glycosylation, a required step in converting inactive human pro-tyrosinase to the active tyrosinase (and tyrosinase is a key enzyme in the production of melanin).
Glucosamine in combination with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants may also be somewhat helpful in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. According to a 2001 study in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment, glucosamine and antioxidant oral supplements reduced the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by a statistically significant 35% amongst 53 women when taken daily. The exact formulation was not revealed, but contained glucosamine, vitamin C, vitamin E, selenium, zinc, manganese, and quercitin. It was, however, also noted in the study that the oral supplement did not increase skin’s hydration, and only decreased the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Ascorbyl glucoside
Ascorbyl glucoside is a stable form of vitamin C that withstands light, heat, and changes in pH better than its traditionally used L-ascorbic acid counterpart. Although research on ascorbyl glucoside is more limited than L-ascorbic acid, it has been reported to have similar effects and physiology to L-ascorbic acid, as reported in the Journal of Food and Drug Analysis in 2004 and The Journal of Health Science in 2005. Although the concentration of ascorbyl glucoside in the product is not reported, it is definitely a great addition to All Bright Moisturizing Sunscreen SPF 30, particularly for the relatively low cost of the product!
Palmitoyl oligopeptide
Palmitoyl oligopeptide is traditionally found in more expensive creams and some Olay products. Although palmitoyl oligopeptide has been confirmed to be less effective at reducing wrinkles and increasing firmness than Botox, it has been reported to stimulate collagen production and to be chemotactic for fibroblasts (i.e., concentrates fibroblasts in one area). Palmitoyl oligopeptide use should increase the firmness of the skin somewhat over time. I personally like the idea of using peptides in combination with retinol at night and antioxidants and sunscreen during the day.
Overall opinions
I LOVE All Bright Moisturizing Sunscreen SPF 30, because it contains so many beneficial ingredients for a relatively low cost. I personally am carrying it around as a hand cream, and applying it after I wash my hands each time. One caveat: my mother does not like the smell of it, and I think it’s not bad, so you may want to try before you buy. At any rate, if there’s one thing I love from Kohl’s Beauty Department, it’s All Bright Moisturizing Sunscreen SPF 30!
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April 18th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Sunblocks |
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According to the April 2008 issue of Health magazine, researchers at the University of Maryland have found that mice treated with topical forms of two antioxidants found in bran and legumes like peanuts and peas resulted in a lower probability that the mice would develop tumors after being exposed to UV rays. However, eating the bran and legumes is unlikely to have the protective post-UV effects.
As Dr. Abulkalam M. Shamsuddin, M.D., tells Health, “Topical forms of the antioxidants may soon be added to sunscreen.”
Exciting news indeed!
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March 23rd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Sunblocks, sunscreen |
one comment
Just in time for Spring, I ran across an old Elle magazine article about sunscreen pills, which piqued my curiosity. According to the article, sunscreen supplements have been popular for the past 30 years in France and other Western European countries. How effective are sunscreen pills? Can you take one and skip the topical application? Read on to find out…
Product #1: Heliocare
One of the most popular sunscreen pills is Heliocare ($54.00 for 60, Amazon.com), which contains Polypodium leucotomos extract derived from a tropical, fern-like plant.
Clinical studies on Heliocare demonstrate that Polypodium leucotomos extract protects against UV damage to the skin, decreases UVA-induced damage, prevents acute sunburn, and prevents Langerhans cell depletion upon UV exposure. One critique of these studies is given by Mayo Clinic dermatologist Lawrence Gibson, M.D., who says that “these trials were too small to have detected any possible side effects — meaning that the long-term safety of these extracts is still in question.”
Still, the results seem to be sound, and as Dr. Gibson allows, “this supplement is meant to be used in conjunction with — and not in place of — other sun protection measures, such as wearing sunscreen or protective clothing when outside.” If you wear sunscreen and sun-protective clothing already, I have not read any reason not to go the extra mile and take Heliocare if you can afford it.
Product #2: Zeaxanthin-containing products
Zeaxanthin is a carotenoid like lycopene and lutein, and is found in human blood and tissues. However, unlike beta-carotene, zeaxanthin does not contribute to vitamin A supply. According to The International Journal for Vitamin and Nutrition Research, zeaxanthin is an efficient antioxidant, and thus “may contribute to the prevention of light-exposed tissue, skin and eyes, from light-induced damage.”
Zeaxanthin-containing products have been found to decrease UVB-induced hyperproliferation and acute inflammation in hairless mice, according to a study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology. According to a 2007 double-blind, placebo-controlled human study, daily oral administration of zeaxanthin and lutein significantly decreases the number of sunburned cells after UV exposure. A third study, this in The Journal of Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, suggests that ingesting and topically applying zeaxanthin and lutein is more beneficial than oral ingestion alone. The study, conducted by Mavi Cosmetics in Italy, demonstrated that either the oral supplement (0.6 mg zeaxanthin and 10 mg lutein) or the zeaxanthin-lutein cream improved skin elasticity, hydration, and protection against sun damage. However, the combination of oral and topical formulations boosted numbers the most — skin hydration by 60 percent and protection against sunburn by 20 percent.
Xeaxanthin and lutein results differ from another carotenoid, beta-carotene, which was found in a 2003 study in Archives of Dermatology to be significantly less effective than a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen at reducing the occurrence of solar keratoses in adults in a subtropical environment.
So why are zeaxanthin and lutein packaged together in many products sold for the eyes? Two reasons: One, zeaxanthin and lutein are responsible for the yellow color of the macula lutea, which protects against light-dependent damage. Two, epidemiological studies provide evidence that an increased consumption of lutein is associated with a lowered risk for age-related macular degeneration, a disease with increasing incidence in the elderly. As such, even though the product is packaged for the eyes, it seems to help protect against sun damage as well, although it is likely a supplementation and not a substitute for sunscreen and sun-protective clothing.
Product #3: Murad Pomphenol Supplement
The third supplement, Murad Pomphenol Sunguard Supplement ($35.00, Amazon.com) contains pomegranate extract. According to Howard Murad, M.D., the supplement boosts sun protection by 25% “from the inside out.” According to Dr. Murad, most topical moisturizer ingredients are only able to enrich the stratum corneum, the uppermost layer of the skin. By taking supplements, Murad says that the lower dermal layer can be fortified with beneficial vitamins and nutrients. Studies confirm that blood levels of nutrients can be enriched via nutritional supplements and food, including a 1988 study by Roidt et. al., which found that serum levels of ß-carotene and serum alpha-carotene were weakly correlated with food and supplement frequency intake of vitamin A, ß-carotene, and other carotenoids.
It has been proposed that pomegranates can protect against UV-induced damage in human keratinocytes, both UVA and UVB in two separate studies in the Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology. Pomegranate extract may prevent against hyperpimgnetation as well: in this double-blind, placebo-controlled 2006 study in the Journal of Nutritional Science and Vitaminology, it was found that 100-200 mg/day of ellagic acid (a component of pomegranate extract) has an inhibitory effect on a slight pigmentation in the human skin caused by UV irradiation. The results of the Bioscience, Biotechnology and Biochemistry study suggest that the skin-whitening effect of PE was probably due to inhibition of the proliferation of melanocytes and melanin synthesis by tyrosinase in melanocytes.
For more on the effects of pomegranate extract on the skin, please click here.
The Overall Verdict & My Personal Opinion
Sunscreen pills are great! Any of the above supplements has been shown to have significant prevention against UV-induced damage. My only concern about sunscreen pills is low vitamin D production, which is common. A 2007 study from the University of Pittsburgh (my alma mater, yay) found that both black and white women in North America are “at high risk” for vitamin D insufficiencies, even when taking prenatal vitamins. According to Dr. Michael Holick, standing outside sunscreen-free between the hours of 10 A.M. and 4 P.M. for fifteen minutes a day three times a week lets the skin produce enough vitamin D for most of the year. (Expose your face, arms, hands, and back.) In addition, daily supplementation of 400 IU vitamin D with food (as it is a fat-soluble vitamin) should help. Be careful not to let total vitamin D from food and supplements exceed 50 mg or 2000 IU: although too much sun is unlikely to create an excess of vitamin D, too much vitamin D via food and supplement can lead to toxicity. Excessive vitamin D levels have been associated with nausea, vomiting, poor appetite, constipation, weakness, weight loss, and calcinosis, the deposition of calcium and phosphate in the body’s soft tissues such as the kidney. However, if you eat healthfully and reasonably, and take a 400 IU vitamin D supplement, you should be fine. Consult your physician if you have concerns.
Overall, I like to look at sunscreen pills as vitamins for skin care lovers: if you invest time and money into the best skin care products, sunscreen, and sun-protective clothing, why not go the extra mile for sunscreen pills if you can afford it and a 400 IU vitamin D supplement? Let me know your thoughts!
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March 14th, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Edible Skincare, Quick Questions, Spotlight On..., Sunblocks, sunscreen |
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The skin on the lips is as susceptible to sun damage as anywhere else. Unfortunately, according to a University of Texas at Austin survey cited in the December 2007 Allure magazine, 71 percent of women do not apply sunscreen to their lips. Thankfully, the following The Cancer Council Australia Sun Care Cosmetics Lipsticks SPF 30+ ($20.00, Sasa.com) offer broad-spectrum UVA/UVB with a high SPF - the highest SPF I have found in a lipstick thus far. In eight different shades, surely there is one that looks (and does) good. For those who prefer lip gloss, The Cancer Council Australia Sun Care Cosmetics Moisturizing Lip Gloss SPF 30+ ($16.50, Sasa.com) offers the same sun protection for a few dollars less.
I particularly love the idea of a high SPF in a lipstick because the SPF on a cosmetics product is rarely the SPF offered with regular application. For instance, any powder product requires about 14 times the amount of normal powder application to receive the SPF listed on the package. So imagine if you lightly apply lipstick, how little SPF you get from a product with SPF 15! At least these lip products offer twice this.
The sunscreen ingredients in the lipsticks are Octyl Methoxycinnamate and Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane; according to Cosmetic Dermatology, patients who are allergic to cinnamic aldehyde and cinnamon oil may also be allergic to octyl methoxycinnamate. Other ingredients include moisturizing lanolin oil and antioxidant vitamin E.
At any rate, an excellent product! Product rating: 9.5/10
Ingredients
Ricinus Communis (Castor Seed) Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Lanolin Oil
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
Ozokerite
Microcrystalline Wax (Cera
Microcristallina)
Polybutene
Synthetic Wax
Butylparaben
Tocopherol
Propyl Gallate
May Contain (+/-):
Iron Oxides (CI 77489, CI 77491, CI
77492, CI 77499)
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
Mica
Orange 5 (CI 45370) Lake
Red 6 (CI 15850) Lake
Red 7 (CI 15850) Lake
Blue 1 (CI 42090) Lake
Yellow 5 (CI 19140) Lake
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February 9th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Product Reviews, Sunblocks |
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