FutureDerm.com

Perspectives from a future dermatologist

Introducing The Best Sunscreen Yet: Tinosorb!

For all of you out there who love a good sunscreen as much as I do, there is new hope:  Tinosorb (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine).  Unlike some other sunscreens, Tinosorb is highly photostable, retaining its levels of UV protection even after exposure to UV rays.  Yet, the best part of Tinosorb is that it is the most effective UV protection available for both UVA and UVB rays, according to a 2007 study published in the European journal Pharmazie.  Tinosorb’s secret?  It is not just a physical sunscreen that prevents UV rays from hitting the skin, or just a chemical sunscreen that prevents transmitted rays from damaging the skin, but instead, works as both, shielding and protecting the skin.  Pretty incredible!

Based on current studies, it does not seem that long-term exposure to Tinosorb has any damaging effects, nor does it seem that irritation is common.   Still, Tinosorb is a relatively new ingredient, and further studies need to be done to determine the ingredient’s true side effects, if any.

One further downside to this phenomenal sunscreen:  Tinosorb has not yet acquired US FDA approval, as the process takes longer in the U.S. than in Europe, Asia, or Canada.  According to MyWomanStuff.com, Tinosorb is available with powerhouse sunscreen Mexoryl in the European and Asian-marketed L’Oreal UV Perfect (iMallSingapore.com).

Can’t bring yourself to order overseas or to wait for FDA approval?  Try using Tinosorb in the wash: According to the textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, an additional way to get the benefits of Tinosorb is to wash your clothes with it, as Tinosorb has a disulfonic acid triazine backbone that enables it to bind to cotton fabrics.  The product is RIT Sunguard Laundry Treatment ($20.00, Amazon.com).

I’ll be updating when more information is available about Tinosorb products!

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July 22nd, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Sunblocks, sunscreen | 3 comments

Product Review: PRIORI Radical Defense

Occasionally, a product comes along with a concept I adore.  One such product is Priori Radical Defense ($120.00 retail, $110.00 on SkinCareRx.com).  Named one of the 30 greatest beauty products of our time by the British Telegraph, Priori Radical Defense combines a potent dual chemical/physical broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 with antioxidant powerhouse idebenone in a side-by-side pump dispenser.  Pretty clever, if I do say so myself.

Idebenone is an incredible antioxidant that is technically a stable analog of the antioxidant coenzyme Q10. Idebenone neutralizes free radicals and protects the skin from many UV-induced reactive oxidative species, according to the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Idebenone use for six weeks was found in a 2005 double-blind study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology to result in significant improvements in aging:  in the study, forty-one female subjects, aged 30-65, with moderate photodamaged skin used creams with either 0.5% or 1.0% idebenone. After one-and-a-half months’ use of the 1.0% idebenone formula, a 26% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 29% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 33% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. For the 0.5% idebenone formulation, a 23% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 27% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 30% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin.

In comparison with other antioxidants, idebenone is more effective at reducing oxidative stress than vitamin E, kinetin, ubiquinone, vitamin C, and lipoic acid, according to a 2007 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, and is second in antioxidant protection only to antioxidant powerhouse coffeeberry, found in the Revale Skin line.

In comparison with the other most potent antioxidant-sunscreen combination product, Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry ($72.00, Amazon.com), Priori Radical Defense contains a far better sunscreen combination.  While Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry only offers SPF 15 and standard UVA protection, Priori Radical Defense protects with physical sunscreen (zinc oxide 8%) that prevents UV rays from hitting the skin, as well as chemical sunscreens (octinoxate 7.5%, octisalate 5%, and oxybenzone 5%) to prevent contacted UV rays from damaging the skin.   Unfortunately, the idebenone in Priori Radical Defense is not as potent an antioxidant as the coffee berry in Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry, and some individuals (myself included) also experience sensitivity after idebenone use.

With that said, the following is the way I see it:  If you are looking for potent antioxidant-sunscreen protection, and your skin is NOT sensitive, I say go with Priori Radical Defense, for the best sunscreen.  However, if your skin IS sensitive, I say go with Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry.  And because different antioxidants neutralize free radicals in different ways, it’s always a great idea to mix up the antioxidants you use.  Try Priori Radical Defense during the day and Revale Skin Night Cream at night, OR Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry during the day and Priori Night Cream at night.  No matter how you go, it’s a win-win!  :-)

Product rating: 9.5/10 (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3/3.  Novel technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 2,5/3.   Sunscreen: 1/1).

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July 18th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Product Reviews, sunscreen | one comment

The 5 Biggest Summer Skin Care Myths — Debunked!

Image source: Ifccenter.com

There are certain rumors about skin care that sound so logical, people assume they must be true.  Unfortunately, sometimes the right answer is the one that combats common sense!  Here are five of the most common myths about summer skin care I have recently heard:

1.  SPF 100 means 100% protection.

Errrt, wrong!  An SPF of 100 means that the sunscreen blocks 99.0% of UV rays.  And yes, that means an SPF of 200 is not only possible, but also would theoretically only block 99.5% of UV rays.  How did I get these numbers?  The amount of UVB an SPF is effective at blocking can be estimated using the following algorithm from dermatologist Dr. Rachel Herschenfeld: SPF means that  1/(SPF number) of rays goes through.  That means that SPF 30 allows 1/30 UVB rays, or 3.3% through, blocking about 96.6% of UVB rays, and SPF 50 allows 1/50 UVB rays, or 2.0% through, blocking about 98.0% of UVB rays.  According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, über-derm and author of Cosmetic Dermatology, the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) commonly listed on products refers to the amount of UVB protection, measured by the time it takes for a person without sunscreen versus a person with sunscreen to show a erythemal skin reaction (i.e., to show redness).

2.  A base tan protects you from future sun damage.

Yes, it is true that darker-skinned women naturally have a slight SPF built-in to their skin (as if Halle Berry and Iman weren’t enough to make me jealous already, *sighs*).   However, women who are lighter-skinned should not get a “base tan” to prevent future damage.  For one, you will incur free radical and structural damage while trying to achieve the build-up of melanin that yields the bit of sun protection.  And two, let’s not forget that everyone — of all skin tones — still needs sun protection: “[Melanin build-up provides an umbrella of sun protection], but the umbrella is porous - you’re still getting DNA damage, which can lead to wrinkles and skin cancer,” says NYC dermatologist Dr. Doris Day in the June issue of Allure.  In other words, everyone needs sunscreen, and while dark skin naturally provides a bit of beneficial SPF, tanning lighter skin to get there isn’t benefiting you in the long run.

3.  Self-tanner saves you from free radical damage.

Yes and no on this one.  Yes, there is nothing proven to naturally age your faster UV light, which does pretty much everything from depleting collagen levels to inducing free radical production at monstrous levels.  And if you use self-tanner and stay out of the sun as a result, then you are saving your skin. However, if you use self-tanner and then go out into the sun, you could be causing more damage:  According to a 2007 study published in Germany (and cited in Allure), for 24 hours after applying a self-tanner, the skin is more susceptible to free-radical damage once being exposed to the sun.

In other words, best case scenario:  avoid self-tanner, wear sunscreen, and avoid the sun between 10-4 P.M. except for 15 minutes/week (for adequate vitamin D production).  Next best scenario:  use self-tanner, wear sunscreen, and avoid the sun between 10-4 P.M. except for 15 minutes/week.  Worst case scenario:  use self-tanner, don’t wear sunscreen, and go out into the sun.  Eeeeek!

4.  “If my powder contains SPF, that’s enough protection.”

Oh dear.  If you want to know how much SPF you are really getting from a product, divide the SPF number by 14, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann, über-dermatologist from the University of Miami.  According to Baumann, scientists estimate the SPF of a facial powder assuming 1200 mg of product is used with each application, but the average woman only applies 85 mg of powder at a time, 14 times less than the estimated amount.  In other words, if you want adequate sun protection, wear a moisturizer or sunscreen with SPF under your powder, even if your powder contains sunscreen.

5.  SPF = UPF.

UPF, the rating system for sun protective clothing, has been getting a lot of press recently because sun protective clothing is currently popular and - dare I say it - increasingly stylish.  However, unlike SPF, which quantifies only UVB protection, UPF is a number that incorporates both UVA and UVB (broad-spectrum) protection.

In general, according to Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, a UPF of 10 equals protection of about SPF 30, so a UPF of 50 equals protection of about SPF 150 (i.e., lets 1/150 rays through, providing 99.25% protection).  Pretty cool, huh?  :-)

****

In short, rumors were made to be about Hollywood celebrity scandals, not your skin.  Let’s put an end to these 5 skin care myths, shall we?  ;-)

Let me know your thoughts!  After all, until June 19, 2008, every comment on FutureDerm.com counts as 1 entry in the $500 skin care giveaway from Skinmedix.com!

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May 22nd, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Commentary, Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Sunblocks, The Worst Things For Your Skin, sunscreen | 20 comments

What Top Dermatologists Recommend for the Beach

Photo source: Photoshopessentials.com

Ever wish you had a dermatologist at your side when you were packing your beach bag?  Never fear…six top derms reveal their must-haves in the June 2008 issue of Allure magazine:

Dr. Francesca J. Fusco of Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City (an experienced, established Manhattan derm):

Dr. Leslie Baumann of the University of Miami School of Medicine in Miami (one of my favorite all-time derms for her incredible knowledge and research background in dermatology):

Dr. Doris Day of the NYU Medical Center in New York City (and the name behind Good Skin products at Kohl’s!):

Dr. Lisa Airan, New York City dermatologist (and quite glam, I might add, this derm is often in magazines like Vogue!)

Dr. Diane Berson of the New York University Medical Center (a well-rounded derm with lots of skin cancer experience)

Dr. Katie Rodan of Stanford University School of Medicine in Stanford, California (of Pro-Activ and Rodan & Fields fame)

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May 19th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Interviews, Sunblocks, sunscreen | 11 comments

Battle of the Brands: Which Mineral Powder is the Best for Your Skin?

Recently, cosmetics companies have been having a field day trailing on the success of Bare Escentuals, each releasing their own formulation of mineral powder.  Because it’s rather difficult to tell them all apart, FutureDerm is here to come to the rescue.  To find out which has the best ingredients, as well as the best texture, read on…

Contender #1:  Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation ($12.99, Drugstore.com)

Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation claims to “enhance skin clarity, tone, and texture.”  Ingredients-wise, it lives up to the claims, with a plethora of skin-beneficial ingredients.  Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) are one of my favorite combinations of ingredients, and are well-touted throughout this blog.  Vitamin C and vitamin E synergistically enhance the power of one another, and have been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines, and have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen.  One further thing I love:  vitamin C is often unstable in formulations, but according to Dr. Burgess’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, “the most stable vitamin C preparations remain anhydrous or completely water-free,” like in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation.

Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation also contains retinyl palmitate.  Although retinyl palmitate was found in a 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology to be less effective in penetrating the skin than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit the collagen-stimulating, smoothing, and wrinkle-reducing properties of retinol over time. In addition, retinyl palmitate has also been shown to be less irritating than retinol, which makes it promising in a powder formulation.

The final ingredient in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation that I love is soybean flour.  Soybean has been shown in numerous studies to exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, to stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid production of human fibroblasts in vitro, and to lighten the appearance of sunspots after use for two weeks.

As far as product application goes, Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation goes on easily, even over sunscreen.  The high concentration of mica and silica in the product makes it reflect the light, while the dimethicone makes it thicker than other Neutrogena powders I have tried in the past.  It covers well and looks great, and I think it is the best choice if you are looking for light to medium coverage with skin-beneficial ingredients. Just one caveat:  do not expect this or any other powder to give you sun protection.  Although it says SPF 20, any powder product requires about 14 times the amount of normal powder application to receive the SPF listed on the package, so a powder with an SPF of 20 is really providing an SPF of about 1.2 with normal use.

Active Ingredients: Titanium dioxide.  Inactive Ingredients: Mica, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Dimethicone, Oryza Sativa Starch (Rice), Magnesium Myristate, Methicone, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Pantothenic Acid, Panthenol, Glycine Soja Flour (Soybean), Alumina, Silk Powder, Water, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, May Contain: Iron Oxides, Nylon 12, Carmine

Contender #2:  Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 ($22.50, Clinique.com)

Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 claims to be “a long-wear formula” that “keeps pores out of trouble.”  That’s always good - I was pretty upset the last time I had to go downtown and bail my pores out.  (Sorry, I’ll stop putting bad humor in here, haha.)

At any rate, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 is a solid talc-based formulation.  Suitable for dry skin, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 contains sodium hyaluronate, which in its unprotonated form as hyaluronic acid is a natural moisturizing factor that binds up to 1000 times its weight in water, according to one of my favorite dermatologists, Dr. Leslie Baumann. However, sodium hyaluronate, with similar water-binding abilities, is commonly used instead of hyaluronic acid in skincare products due to its greater chemical stability (Kewpie) and still-hydrating capabilities.

When applied, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 feels thicker than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation, and I feel that it provides greater (heavier) coverage.  I like this product better than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder for dry skin types or for those women who would like more coverage.  Still, like with the Neutrogena product, don’t expect to get an SPF of more than 1 with this product.

Ingredients (01 Fair And 04 Neutral)
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide 13.00% • Octinoxate 2.00%
Ingredients: Talc • Dimethicone • Nylon-12 • Silica • Squalane • Boron Nitride • Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer • Cetyl Caprylate • Diisostearyl Malate • Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate • Methicone • Aluminum Hydroxide • Glycerin • Sodium Hyaluronate • Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate • Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate • Palmitoyl Proline • Alumina • Tocopherol • Palmitic Acid • 1,2-Hexanediol • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate • Tin Oxide • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Iron Oxides (Ci 77499, Ci 77492, Ci 77491) • Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891)]

Ingredients (07 Deep)
Active Ingredient: Titanium Dioxide 6.90%
Ingredients: Talc • Silica • Isostearyl Palmitate • Methicone • Sodium Hyaluronate • Triethoxycaprylylsilane • Nylon-12 • Glycerin • Alumina • Tetrasodium Edta • Chlorphenesin • Potassium Sorbate • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891) • Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499)]

Contender #3:  Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup ($22.50, Avon.com)

Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is free of talc, oil, or fragrance.  Of all three powders, Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is definitely the formulation closest to Bare Escentuals, with mica, bismuth oxychloride, and iron oxides.  The consistency of Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is also the most similar to Bare Escentuals, with a half-foundation/half-powder type duality, and mastery of the application technique is a must.

Ascorbyl palmitate (a form of vitamin C) and tocopherol (vitamin E) provide some additional sun protection, while retinyl palmitate helps to refine skin texture and to improve cell turnover over time.  The product feels like a heavier powder but covers like a good foundation, and stays put all day.  If you are looking for a mineral powder experience that is completely distinct from normal powders, then I would recommend Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup over the other two.  (And again, wear sunscreen under it!!!)

Ingredients

MICA
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
KAOLIN
ZINC PCA
SODIUM HYALURONATE
SODIUM PCA
LECITHIN
UREA
C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE
SILICA DIMETHYL SILYLATE
WATER/EAU
LAURYL PCA
TREHALOSE
ASCORBYL PALMITATE
ATELOCOLLAGEN
PHENYL TRIMETHICONE
BETA-CAROTENE
POLYQUATERNIUM-51
RETINYL PALMITATE
SODIUM CHONDROITIN SULFATE
TOCOPHEROL
NYLON-12
METHYLPARABEN
PROPYLPARABEN

MAY CONTAIN:

IRON OXIDES
BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE

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May 14th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetics, Dry Skin Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Spotlight On..., Sunblocks, sunscreen | 6 comments

Product Review: Garnier Nutritioniste Anti Sun Damage Moisture Lotion SPF 28

According to the advertisements, Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula ($12.99, Walgreens.com) will help to reverse signs of past sun damage like fine lines, discolorations, and sun spots, as well as protect against future damage.

The product claims to contain 2x the vitamin C of the usual Garnier Nutritioniste formulas. Garnier Nutritioniste products seem to always use vitamin C in the form of ascorbyl glucoside, which has been found to be more stable than L-ascorbic acid at a wider range of pH and temperatures. While it has been found that ascorbyl glucoside has the collagen-stimulating, antioxidant, skin-lightening effects of L-ascorbic acid, the only downside is that the exact concentration of ascorbyl glucoside in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is not given, whereas it is established in certain L-ascorbic acid formulations like Cellex-C contain 15% L-ascorbic acid.

Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula also contains magnesium. Magnesium has been shown to improve barrier function recovery in the skin of mice, and the company claims that magnesium also “energizes and hydrates” the skin.

The last main ingredient, lycopene, I have mixed feelings about. On the one hand, lycopene, the caroten that gives tomatoes its red pigment, has been reported by Dr. G. Todorov to be the best antioxidant among carotens, with at least twice the free-radical scavenging ability as ß-carotene. Lycopene also serves as a natural sunscreen, providing a UVB of about 3, and it is speculated that lycopene could improve cell-to-cell junctions, theoretically improving skin’s texture. A 2002 study by Offord et. al. further found that lycopene and vitamin E together, as in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, can suppress the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (collagen-digesting) mRNA. Unfortunately, the use of lycopene at all is questionable at this time, as a 2005 study by Yeh et. al demonstrated that topical application of lycopene “enhances UVA-induced oxidative stress in [mouse] fibroblast (skin) cells, and…under UVA irradiation, lycopene may produce oxidative products that are responsible for the prooxidant effects.” Although this study was done on the mouse, based on these results and similar from Offord et. al., it does not seem advisable to use lycopene in skin care products at this time.

According to reviews of Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, the product is light, non-greasy, and smells delightful. Women largely report after a few weeks’ use that their skin feels softer and smoother. However, the eradication of age spots may take a while, as blogger E. Harmon notes that she had not noticed a “huge difference in the tone or brightness” of her skin, although notes that the effect may occur “with continued use over time.” I think it all depends on the amount of ascorbyl glucoside in the product, which hasn’t been reported.

Overall, I think Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is a quality product, though it may not be as effective as products with a higher concentration of vitamin C, like Cellex-C. Still, it should improve skin’s texture, provide sun protection, and may eradicate sun spots over time. I give it a solid 7/10 (high concentration of proven ingredients: 1.5/3. New technology: 1.5/3, for the as-of-yet questionable inclusion of lycopene. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 1/1.)

Ingredients in Garnier Nutritioniste Anti Sun Damage Moisture Lotion SPF 28

Water; Isononyl Isononanote; Glycerin; Cyclohexasiloxane; Propylene Glycol; Ethylhexyl Palmitate; Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate; Butylene Glycol; Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; Dimethicone; Nylon-66; Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer; Glyceryl Stearate; Behenyl Alcohol; Solanium Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract*; Ascorbyl Glucoside**; Tocopheryl Acetate; Actindia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Water; Rosa Canina Fruit Oil; Capryloyl Salicylic Acid; Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate; Caprylyl Glycol; Magnesium PCA***; Manganese PCA***; Mica; Sodium PCA***; Titanium Dioxide; Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethyl Isosorbide; PEG-8 Laurate; Disodium EDTA; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Octyldodecanol; Polycaprolactone; Sodium Citrate; Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate; Sodium Hydroxide; Xanthan Gum; Methylparaben; Propylparaben; Butylparaben; Fragrance; Linalool; Benzyl Salicylate; Limonene; Geraniol; Citral; *Lycopene; **Vitamin C; ***Magnesium

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April 30th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Sunblocks, Wrinkle Treatments, sunscreen | one comment

Splurge of the Month: RéVive Skincare Filtre de Soleil SPF 45

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Photo source Wmagazine.com

As a college student, I am all-too-aware of the cost of skin care products. At the same time, however, a product comes along every once in a while that makes me open my wallet. That’s the case with the new RéVive Filtre de Soleil SPF 45 ($130.00, RéViveSkincare.com).

The highlight of this sunscreen is not its superior protection - although it contains physical sunscreen (zinc oxide) and chemical sunscreen, Neutrogena’s Helioplex has been documented to provide the most photostable UVA protection of any sunscreen on the market. No, the beauty of the new RéVive Filtre de Soleil SPF 45 is that it drinks into the skin without leaving any white residue. According to the May 2008 issue of W magazine, RéVive company founder Dr. Gregory Bays Brown says this sunscreen was the company’s “trickiest product to perfect.” For daily sunscreen fanatics like me, this is one product I’ll be breaking out on days I have important places to go and don’t feel like worrying about telltale sunscreen streaks staring back at me from the mirror.

Who is RéVive Skincare?

According to BeautyProductsCompared.com, RéVive Skincare was started by plastic surgeon Dr. Gregory Bays Brown, who originally studied epidermal growth factors (EGFs) as a means to treat burn victims. When he found that the EGFs accelerated the healing of the skin in his patients, Dr. Brown went on to develop the technology as in skin care creams to treat aging.

Although I am not very familiar with the line, RéVive Skincare products appear to contain a lot of growth factors, such as epidermal growth factor, insulin-like growth factor, and keratinocyte growth factor. Because there is less research into growth factors than ingredients like antioxidants, retinoids, and niacinamide, I personally am waiting a few years to try products with human growth factors, when there are more studies done from a greater number of sources. However, research done thus far has been promising: In a 2007 study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, subjects used Neocutis’ Bio-Restorative Skin Cream (with human growth factors originally derived from fetal fibroblasts) on half of their face for sixty days. After the 60-day period, 83% of the subjects showed an improved average wrinkle score in the eye area, while 50% showed an improved average wrinkle score in the mouth area. However, it must be noted that the study was not double-blind or placebo-controlled.

Overall Opinion

I’m pretty excited about RéVive Filtre de Soleil SPF 45 ($130.00, RéViveSkincare.com), and can’t wait to finally be able to get superior sun protection without the telltale white streaks! :-)

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April 19th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Product Reviews, Sunblocks, sunscreen | one comment

Just in Time for Summer: Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Age Shield SPF 30 Hand Cream

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Every once in a while, a product comes along that just makes your life a little easier. Right now, that product is Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Age Shield SPF 30 Hand Cream ($9.79, Drugstore.com). While the name is certainly a handful, the product is the same famous Norwegian formulation, plus Helioplex TM, in an easy-to-carry, affordable package. I love it!

How effective is the product?

Think hydration. The main ingredients in Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Age Shield SPF 30 Hand Cream are almost all major humectants that seal in moisture and smooth the skin’s surface, like glycerin, beeswax, petrolatum, and urea. These ingredients will literally lock the moisture into your hands. With consistent reapplication, your skin will feel significantly less dry and more hydrated.

The best sunscreen available for your hands

Helioplex is a stabilized, patented combination of oxybenzone and avobenzone that has been demonstrated in clinical tests to provide longer-lasting UVA protection than most other sunscreens. In fact, it has been documented (and cited here) that Helioplex is more photostable than even Mexoryl, another leading UVA absorber found in L’Oréal products. Given the fact that Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Age Shield SPF 30 Hand Cream is the only hand cream containing Helioplex, I doubt that better UVA protection is available elsewhere.

It should also be noted that the sunscreen will be particularly effective in preventing signs of aging if you carry the tube around in your handbag and re-apply after washing your hands each time.

How does the product feel and smell?

The cream is on the thick side, and it takes a moment or two to soak into your hands. I thought that it smelled like a watered-down version of Vaseline, and then I was all proud of myself (or rather, my nose) when I realized that one of the main ingredients in the formulation is petrolatum. :-)

Once it drinks in, it leaves skin feeling really soft. For having a reasonably high SPF, it also does not leave a white residue.

Overall opinions…

Love, love, LOVE it. If you buy one new product for your hands this summer, Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Age Shield SPF 30 Hand Cream should be it! Product Rating: 10/10. (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 3/3. New technology: 3/3 [for updated formulation with Helioplex]. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).

Ingredients in Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Age Shield SPF 30 Hand Cream

Active Ingredients: Avobenzone (2.0%), Homosalate (5%), Octisalate (5%), Octocrylene (3.55%), Oxybenzone (3%)

Inactive Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Silica, Beeswax, Petrolatum, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG 100 Stearate, Proline, Cetyl Dimethicone, Sodium Polyacrylate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, BHT, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate, Trideceth 6, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Methylisothiazolinone, Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, Fragrance

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April 14th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Hand Treatments, Product Reviews, sunscreen | 5 comments

Great New Find: Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85

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If you read this blog often enough, you’ll know that I am a sunscreen fanatic. So imagine my excitement when I stumbled upon Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85 ($10.44, Drugstore.com). New for the summer, Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85 combines the powerful UVA protection of the HelioplexTM complex (avobenzone and oxybenzone) plus an almost-unheard of UVB, 85!

What makes SPF 85 so great?

According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, author of Cosmetic Dermatology, the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) commonly listed on products refers to the amount of UVB protection, measured by the time it takes for a person without sunscreen versus a person with sunscreen to show a erythemal skin reaction (i.e., to show redness).

The amount of UVB an SPF is effective at blocking may be estimated using the following algorithm from Dr. Rachel Herschenfeld: SPF 30 allows 1/30 UVB rays, or 3.3% through, meaning it blocks about 96.6% of UVB rays; SPF 50 allows 1/50 UVB rays, or 2.0% through, meaning it blocks 98.0% of UVB rays.  An SPF of 80 means that only 1/80, or 1.25% of rays get through, meaning that Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85 is blocking 98.75% of the sun’s rays.  Pretty impressive!

And if you mathematicians out there noticed that there is a bigger increase when you move from SPF 30 to SPF 50 than from SPF 50 to SPF 80, you are correct.  The higher the numbers go, the smaller the amount of protection inferred with each increase.   Still, I would rather get 98.75% of the rays blocked with Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85 than 98.0% with an SPF 50!  :-)

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March 25th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | sunscreen | 8 comments

Next Up: Peanuts in Your Skin Care?

 

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According to the April 2008 issue of Health magazine, researchers at the University of Maryland have found that mice treated with topical forms of two antioxidants found in bran and legumes like peanuts and peas resulted in a lower probability that the mice would develop tumors after being exposed to UV rays.  However, eating the bran and legumes is unlikely to have the protective post-UV effects.

As Dr. Abulkalam M. Shamsuddin, M.D., tells Health, “Topical forms of the antioxidants may soon be added to sunscreen.”

Exciting news indeed! :-)

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March 23rd, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Sunblocks, sunscreen | one comment

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