Originally uploaded by Mark Interrante (aka pinhole) (flickr)
On vacation in Hawaii right now (I’m sorry, I know I’m a lucky girl and I can’t help it), I’ve had a few friends in the area (and back home in Pittsburgh) ask me what sunscreen to use for their oily/acne-prone skin.
With that said, I’ve found a few products that have very promising ingredients for that very skin type. As always, however, check with your dermatologist before trying any new products. 
Best Overall: LaRoche Posay SPF 60 Fluide Extreme ($44.00, Amazon.com). The first high-SPF product I ever used, this double-formulated (Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL) milky product provides superior UVA and UVB protection without a greasy feel or telltale white streaks.
Mexoryl (ecamsule) is an ingredient in chemical sunscreens that has been available in Europe for many years, and which came to the U.S. only this year. Mexoryl, available as SX (water soluble) and XL (lipid soluble), is very effective for two reasons: one, because it is very stable [as a benzylidene camphor derivative], and two, because it absorbs light at a broader range of UVA wavelengths than many other sunscreens. After absorbing light from this broad spectrum, ecamsule undergoes photoisomerization, followed by photoexcitation, which means that it causes for UV light to be released as thermal energy rather than allowing for UV light to be absorbed into the skin and cause damage, as most chemical sunscreens do. Additionally, the combination of Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL are even more stable than each alone; however, Mexoryl XL is often not tolerated in patients with sensitive skin, and so only Mexoryl SX is featured in L’Oréal products sold in the U.S.
If your skin is not sensitive, but is oily/acne-prone, I believe this is the best product on the market. Best of all, beauty bloggers and forum contributors with oily/acne prone skin attest to its ability to protect without causing breakouts. Of course, always check with your dermatologist!
Best Drugstore Product: Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 ($21.98 for two, Amazon.com). Let’s start off this review with a bit of disappointment: this product does not absorb nearly as sheer or dry as the LaRoche Posay SPF 60 Fluide Extreme for Face does. However, for the cost ($21.98 for 6 of the Neutrogena product versus $44.00 for 6.1 ounces of the LaRoche Posay product), Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 still absorbs dry and sheer enough to make it the best in the drugstore class.
The main ingredient in Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 is Helioplex. According to Johnson & Johnson, the parent company of Neutrogena, Helioplex is a stabilized, patented combination of oxybenzone and avobenzone that has been demonstrated in clinical tests to provide longer-lasting UVA protection than most other sunscreens. In fact, it has been documented (and cited here) that Helioplex is more photostable than even the Mexoryl SX found in the LaRoche Posay product – another reason to consider it!
Despite the superior protection, again, Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 tends to leave telltale white streaks on the face. I personally use it everyday, but if I have an important event to attend, I automatically reach for my LaRoche Posay SPF 60 Fluide Extreme for Face .
Best Physical Protection: Physical sunscreens prevent UV light from penetrating the skin, while chemical sunscreens prevent subsequent damage after UV rays are absorbed by the skin. While some dermatologists (and research from the University of Arizona) swear by layering a chemical sunscreen under a physical sunscreen, knowing patients often prefer physical sunscreens alone because they often do not interact as much with their cosmetics (particularly when their sunscreens contain micronized zinc or titanium dioxide), and for an overall movement towards less chemicals in skin care.
With that said, the best physical sunscreen for oily/acne-prone skin that I am aware of is Mychelle Sun Shield SPF 28 ($30.67 for two 2.3 ounce tubes, Amazon.com). This sunscreen contains over 11% zinc oxide and under 1% titanium dioxide – the ideal formulation for UVA protection! According to a 1999 study by Mitchnik et al., microfine zinc oxide absorbs more UV light than titanium dioxide in the long-wave UVA spectrum, from 340 to 380 nm, and hence provides more effective UVA protection.
I personally have used the Mychelle Sun Shield SPF 28, and while I do not have oily/acne-prone skin (rather normal/sensitive), I thought that it dried well on the skin, with a minimum of white streaks. With all due honesty, I did not like it as much as the LaRoche Posay, but if you want a physical sunscreen, Mychelle Sun Shield SPF 28 may be the best out there.
*******
With that said, let me know you have any sunscreens that you swear by in Comments below! Please be sure to include your skin type.
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May 30th, 2009
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futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Product Reviews, Sunblocks, sunscreen |
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Photo originally uploaded by livinginacity (flickr)
Cosmetics companies are always trying to develop the latest and greatest new ingredients to help improve the performance of their products. One ingredient with potential to revolutionize the sunscreen industry is cerium dioxide (also known as cerium oxide). Traditionally used for polishing glass, cerium dioxide is currently being developed with other chemicals (i.e., in combination with silica, or with a turbostatic boron nitride coating) to potentially provide additional scattering and reduced absorption of UV rays, like physical and chemical sunscreens, respectively. According to the Journal of Solid State Chemistry, doped (i.e., in combination with certain other chemicals) cerium oxide provides excellent protection in the UV-visible light range in comparison with undoped cerium oxide. Cerium dioxide also has been found in a study published in SCCJ to show higher physical UV protection than a micronized titanium dioxide particle. Best of all, cerium dioxide was found to look “more natural” and “less visible” to wearers.
So what’s the catch? As of yet, the safety profile of cerium dioxide (whether doped or undoped) in skin care has not been ascertained in peer-reviewed published scientific research. However, previous concerns regarding potential radioactivity of cerium dioxide have been linked to radioactive thorium contamination in unpurified cerium dioxide, not by cerium dioxide itself. Even so, we may be waiting for a few years before we know the true efficacy of cerium dioxide, as well as its full safety profile, much less a revolutionary sunscreen.
I’ll keep on the lookout for new products with cerium dioxide! In the meantime, please let me know your thoughts or if you have any news about cerium dioxide or sunscreens in general in comments below.
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May 29th, 2009
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Cosmetic Dermatology News, General Cosmetic Dermatology, General Dermatology, Spotlight On..., Sunblocks, sunscreen |
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With spring just around the corner and safe sun awareness at an all-time high, the demand for a high-quality, effective sunscreen as never been greater. To make your shopping easier, here is a list of the best sunscreens, for every purpose:
1. Best all-around protection: Neutrogena Age Shield SPF 90 with Helioplex ($10.99, Amazon.com). First, the UVB protection here is incredible, with SPF 90 blocking approximately 99.89% of the sun’s rays (computation courtesy of Dr. Rachel Herschenfeld). Next, the UVA protection is arguably the best on the market with the addition of Helioplex. According to Johnson & Johnson, the parent company of Neutrogena, Helioplex is a stabilized, patented combination of oxybenzone and avobenzone that has been demonstrated in clinical tests to provide longer-lasting UVA protection than most other sunscreens. In fact, it has been documented (and cited here) that Helioplex is more photostable than even Mexoryl, another leading UVA absorber found in a competitor’s (L’Oréal’s) products. Hence, if you are looking for the ultimate in sun protection, it’s safe to say that Neutrogena Age Shield SPF 90 with Helioplex is amongst the very best in 2009. Product rating: 10/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. New technology or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
2. Best antioxidant protection: Topix Replenix CF Advance Anti-Photoaging Complex SPF 45 ($31.50, Amazon.com). Replete with the active components of green tea (EGCG’s) and caffeine, which has been reported in The Proceedings of the National Academy of the Sciences to increase the absorption of green tea into the skin of mice, this product not only delivers superior antioxidant benefits, but also a not-too-shabby SPF of 45. Add in the fact that you not only get chemical sunscreen to diffuse UV rays (Avobenzone 3.0%, Octinoxate 7.5%, Octisalate 5.0%, Oxybenzone 5.0%), but also physical sunscreen to shield your skin from UV rays (Zinc Oxide 5.0%), and I think we have a winner in the category. In three words: I. Love. It. Product rating: 9.5/10. (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. New technology or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 2.5/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).
3. Best under make-up: Jan Marini Antioxidant Daily Face SPF 30 ($40.99, Amazon.com). Every once in a while, I come across a product that I love not only for its ingredients or delivery system, but for the way the chemicals synergistically combine to leave my skin feeling incredible. That’s the case here: sure, the chemical sunscreen is nice, hyaluronic acid is hydrating, and the sound of the ”microscopic sponge encapsulation system” is impressive to many, but when it’s on my skin, that’s when the formulation really proves itself, leaving my skin soft to the touch, and never greasy or oily. It works better than any sunscreen I’ve ever tried under make-up (and believe me, I’ve tried many). I know this sounds more like a friend-to-friend recommendation than a scientific review, but honestly, pal, I just can’t stop gushing… Product Rating: 9.5/10. (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 3/3. New technology or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 2.5/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).
4. Best for sensitive skin: Clinique Sun SPF 50 Body Cream ($20.00, Clinique.com). A new formulation for 2009, Clinique Sun SPF 50 Body Cream is a typical Clinique product in that it is repeatedly dermatologist-tested, fragrance-free, non-hypoallergenic, and non-comedogenic. But what I really like about this new body sunscreen is that it contains a fairly substantial concentration of antioxidants…and the fact that, for just $20, you are getting 5.0 oz of a typically ”face”-quality sunscreen. (You didn’t hear it from me, but you can also try to save some money by using this body sunscreen on your face. However, as always, talk to your dermatologist to verify that this is a good strategy for you and your skin.)
Also, until March 31, 2009, you can receive a free trial-size mascara with your purchase of $35 or more when you click through here to place your order! Product Rating: 8.5/10. (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 2.5/3. New technology or unique formulation: 2.5/3. Value for the money: 2.5/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).
5. Best for organic/natural product devotees: DDF Daily Organic SPF 30 ($23.80, Amazon.com). With 3.2% titanium dioxide and 6% zinc oxide, this organic sunscreen delivers a better physical block than most organic sunscreens on the market, effectively shielding the skin from approximately 97% of the sun’s rays (of course, that is only with proper application, as with all sunscreens). My only reservation about this product is the fact that I cannot find the percentage of organic ingredients in which it contains. While the company maintains that the product is free of chemical sunscreens, DDF Daily Organic SPF 30 does contain quite a few silicone-based ingredients (cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone) and thus may be sub-optimal for the true-blue organic skin care enthusiast. Nevertheless, I still love this product. Product Rating: 8.0/10. (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 2/3. New technology or unique formulation: 2.5/3. Value for the money: 2.5/3. Sunscreen: 1/1)..
As always, check with your dermatologist before beginning a new skin regimen or trying a new skin care product. Let me know your favorite sunscreen(s) in comments below, and don’t forget to enter the FutureDerm and Sustainable Youth Technologies Giveaway before midnight EST on Monday, April 20, 2009!
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March 18th, 2009
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Sunblocks, sunscreen |
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Thank you, everyone, for your patience, as I had to travel this week to New York City for an interview!
With that said, a reader recently passed along a great story in the New York Times to me. Apparently, the new FDA-proposed sunscreen labeling system — which proposed to rank the strength of UVA protection on a scale from one to four stars, and to limit the number of UVB ratings to state a maximum of “50+” — has been put on the back burner, at least for now. The reason for the delay? According to the New York Times, the question is that “some manufacturers have objected, arguing…that consumers will mistakenly assume that the stars represent an overall product quality rating like those used in restaurant reviews.” In addition, the FDA is currently debating “whether manufacturers, without having to submit scientific evidence, should be allowed to make marketing claims that sunscreen can do more than just prevent sunburn, or whether the burden lies on the F.D.A. to disprove other claims [as well].” Like anti-aging, for instance. Very interesting indeed.
So what is a sunscreen fiend to do? Currently, scientific evidence seems to point to the fact that Helioplex (in Neutrogena products), Mexoryl (in L’Oreal products) and Tinosorb (in European-Asian markets only) may provide the best UVA protection. In addition, you may want to consider using the highest SPF you can found: as the amount of UVB an SPF is effective at blocking is directly proportional to the SPF number. According to Dr. Rachel Herschenfeld, SPF 30 allows 1/30 UVB rays, or 3.3% through, meaning it blocks about 96.6% of UVB rays; SPF 50 allows 1/50 UVB rays, or 2.0% through, meaning it blocks 98.0% of UVB rays. However, because some individuals experience sensitivity when wearing sunscreen upon exposure to sunlight (called “phototoxicity”), particularly when using a formulation with a higher SPF, you may want to test different types to determine the best one for you.
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August 2nd, 2008
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Controversy, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Sunblocks, sunscreen |
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For all of you out there who love a good sunscreen as much as I do, there is new hope: Tinosorb (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine). Unlike some other sunscreens, Tinosorb is highly photostable, retaining its levels of UV protection even after exposure to UV rays. Yet, the best part of Tinosorb is that it is the most effective UV protection available for both UVA and UVB rays, according to a 2007 study published in the European journal Pharmazie. Tinosorb’s secret? It is not just a physical sunscreen that prevents UV rays from hitting the skin, or just a chemical sunscreen that prevents transmitted rays from damaging the skin, but instead, works as both, shielding and protecting the skin. Pretty incredible!
Based on current studies, it does not seem that long-term exposure to Tinosorb has any damaging effects, nor does it seem that irritation is common. Still, Tinosorb is a relatively new ingredient, and further studies need to be done to determine the ingredient’s true side effects, if any.
One further downside to this phenomenal sunscreen: Tinosorb has not yet acquired US FDA approval, as the process takes longer in the U.S. than in Europe, Asia, or Canada. According to MyWomanStuff.com, Tinosorb is available with powerhouse sunscreen Mexoryl in the European and Asian-marketed L’Oreal UV Perfect (iMallSingapore.com).
Can’t bring yourself to order overseas or to wait for FDA approval? Try using Tinosorb in the wash: According to the textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, an additional way to get the benefits of Tinosorb is to wash your clothes with it, as Tinosorb has a disulfonic acid triazine backbone that enables it to bind to cotton fabrics. The product is RIT Sunguard Laundry Treatment ($20.00, Amazon.com).
I’ll be updating when more information is available about Tinosorb products!
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July 22nd, 2008
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Sunblocks, sunscreen |
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Occasionally, a product comes along with a concept I adore. One such product is Priori Radical Defense ($120.00 retail, $110.00 on SkinCareRx.com). Named one of the 30 greatest beauty products of our time by the British Telegraph, Priori Radical Defense combines a potent dual chemical/physical broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 with antioxidant powerhouse idebenone in a side-by-side pump dispenser. Pretty clever, if I do say so myself.
Idebenone is an incredible antioxidant that is technically a stable analog of the antioxidant coenzyme Q10. Idebenone neutralizes free radicals and protects the skin from many UV-induced reactive oxidative species, according to the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Idebenone use for six weeks was found in a 2005 double-blind study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology to result in significant improvements in aging: in the study, forty-one female subjects, aged 30-65, with moderate photodamaged skin used creams with either 0.5% or 1.0% idebenone. After one-and-a-half months’ use of the 1.0% idebenone formula, a 26% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 29% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 33% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. For the 0.5% idebenone formulation, a 23% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 27% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 30% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin.
In comparison with other antioxidants, idebenone is more effective at reducing oxidative stress than vitamin E, kinetin, ubiquinone, vitamin C, and lipoic acid, according to a 2007 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, and is second in antioxidant protection only to antioxidant powerhouse coffeeberry, found in the Revale Skin line.
In comparison with the other most potent antioxidant-sunscreen combination product, Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry ($72.00, Amazon.com), Priori Radical Defense contains a far better sunscreen combination. While Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry only offers SPF 15 and standard UVA protection, Priori Radical Defense protects with physical sunscreen (zinc oxide 8%) that prevents UV rays from hitting the skin, as well as chemical sunscreens (octinoxate 7.5%, octisalate 5%, and oxybenzone 5%) to prevent contacted UV rays from damaging the skin. Unfortunately, the idebenone in Priori Radical Defense is not as potent an antioxidant as the coffee berry in Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry, and some individuals (myself included) also experience sensitivity after idebenone use.
With that said, the following is the way I see it: If you are looking for potent antioxidant-sunscreen protection, and your skin is NOT sensitive, I say go with Priori Radical Defense, for the best sunscreen. However, if your skin IS sensitive, I say go with Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry. And because different antioxidants neutralize free radicals in different ways, it’s always a great idea to mix up the antioxidants you use. Try Priori Radical Defense during the day and Revale Skin Night Cream at night, OR Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry during the day and Priori Night Cream at night. No matter how you go, it’s a win-win!
Product rating: 9.5/10 (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3/3. Novel technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 2,5/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).
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July 18th, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Product Reviews, sunscreen |
one comment
There are certain rumors about skin care that sound so logical, people assume they must be true. Unfortunately, sometimes the right answer is the one that combats common sense! Here are five of the most common myths about summer skin care I have recently heard:
1. SPF 100 means 100% protection.
Errrt, wrong! An SPF of 100 means that the sunscreen blocks 99.0% of UV rays. And yes, that means an SPF of 200 is not only possible, but also would theoretically only block 99.5% of UV rays. How did I get these numbers? The amount of UVB an SPF is effective at blocking can be estimated using the following algorithm from dermatologist Dr. Rachel Herschenfeld: SPF means that 1/(SPF number) of rays goes through. That means that SPF 30 allows 1/30 UVB rays, or 3.3% through, blocking about 96.6% of UVB rays, and SPF 50 allows 1/50 UVB rays, or 2.0% through, blocking about 98.0% of UVB rays. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, über-derm and author of Cosmetic Dermatology, the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) commonly listed on products refers to the amount of UVB protection, measured by the time it takes for a person without sunscreen versus a person with sunscreen to show a erythemal skin reaction (i.e., to show redness).
2. A base tan protects you from future sun damage.
Yes, it is true that darker-skinned women naturally have a slight SPF built-in to their skin (as if Halle Berry and Iman weren’t enough to make me jealous already, *sighs*). However, women who are lighter-skinned should not get a “base tan” to prevent future damage. For one, you will incur free radical and structural damage while trying to achieve the build-up of melanin that yields the bit of sun protection. And two, let’s not forget that everyone — of all skin tones — still needs sun protection: “[Melanin build-up provides an umbrella of sun protection], but the umbrella is porous – you’re still getting DNA damage, which can lead to wrinkles and skin cancer,” says NYC dermatologist Dr. Doris Day in the June issue of Allure. In other words, everyone needs sunscreen, and while dark skin naturally provides a bit of beneficial SPF, tanning lighter skin to get there isn’t benefiting you in the long run.
3. Self-tanner saves you from free radical damage.
Yes and no on this one. Yes, there is nothing proven to naturally age your faster UV light, which does pretty much everything from depleting collagen levels to inducing free radical production at monstrous levels. And if you use self-tanner and stay out of the sun as a result, then you are saving your skin. However, if you use self-tanner and then go out into the sun, you could be causing more damage: According to a 2007 study published in Germany (and cited in Allure), for 24 hours after applying a self-tanner, the skin is more susceptible to free-radical damage once being exposed to the sun.
In other words, best case scenario: avoid self-tanner, wear sunscreen, and avoid the sun between 10-4 P.M. except for 15 minutes/week (for adequate vitamin D production). Next best scenario: use self-tanner, wear sunscreen, and avoid the sun between 10-4 P.M. except for 15 minutes/week. Worst case scenario: use self-tanner, don’t wear sunscreen, and go out into the sun. Eeeeek!
4. “If my powder contains SPF, that’s enough protection.”
Oh dear. If you want to know how much SPF you are really getting from a product, divide the SPF number by 14, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann, über-dermatologist from the University of Miami. According to Baumann, scientists estimate the SPF of a facial powder assuming 1200 mg of product is used with each application, but the average woman only applies 85 mg of powder at a time, 14 times less than the estimated amount. In other words, if you want adequate sun protection, wear a moisturizer or sunscreen with SPF under your powder, even if your powder contains sunscreen.
5. SPF = UPF.
UPF, the rating system for sun protective clothing, has been getting a lot of press recently because sun protective clothing is currently popular and – dare I say it – increasingly stylish. However, unlike SPF, which quantifies only UVB protection, UPF is a number that incorporates both UVA and UVB (broad-spectrum) protection.
In general, according to Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, a UPF of 10 equals protection of about SPF 30, so a UPF of 50 equals protection of about SPF 150 (i.e., lets 1/150 rays through, providing 99.25% protection). Pretty cool, huh?
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In short, rumors were made to be about Hollywood celebrity scandals, not your skin. Let’s put an end to these 5 skin care myths, shall we? 
Let me know your thoughts! After all, until June 19, 2008, every comment on FutureDerm.com counts as 1 entry in the $500 skin care giveaway from Skinmedix.com!
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May 22nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Commentary, Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Sunblocks, The Worst Things For Your Skin, sunscreen |
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Ever wish you had a dermatologist at your side when you were packing your beach bag? Never fear…six top derms reveal their must-haves in the June 2008 issue of Allure magazine:
Dr. Francesca J. Fusco of Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City (an experienced, established Manhattan derm):
Dr. Leslie Baumann of the University of Miami School of Medicine in Miami (one of my favorite all-time derms for her incredible knowledge and research background in dermatology):
Dr. Doris Day of the NYU Medical Center in New York City (and the name behind Good Skin products at Kohl’s!):
Dr. Lisa Airan, New York City dermatologist (and quite glam, I might add, this derm is often in magazines like Vogue!)
Dr. Diane Berson of the New York University Medical Center (a well-rounded derm with lots of skin cancer experience)
Dr. Katie Rodan of Stanford University School of Medicine in Stanford, California (of Pro-Activ and Rodan & Fields fame)
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May 19th, 2008
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Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Interviews, Sunblocks, sunscreen |
11 comments
Recently, cosmetics companies have been having a field day trailing on the success of Bare Escentuals, each releasing their own formulation of mineral powder. Because it’s rather difficult to tell them all apart, FutureDerm is here to come to the rescue. To find out which has the best ingredients, as well as the best texture, read on…
Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation claims to “enhance skin clarity, tone, and texture.” Ingredients-wise, it lives up to the claims, with a plethora of skin-beneficial ingredients. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) are one of my favorite combinations of ingredients, and are well-touted throughout this blog. Vitamin C and vitamin E synergistically enhance the power of one another, and have been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines, and have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen. One further thing I love: vitamin C is often unstable in formulations, but according to Dr. Burgess’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, “the most stable vitamin C preparations remain anhydrous or completely water-free,” like in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation.
Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation also contains retinyl palmitate. Although retinyl palmitate was found in a 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology to be less effective in penetrating the skin than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit the collagen-stimulating, smoothing, and wrinkle-reducing properties of retinol over time. In addition, retinyl palmitate has also been shown to be less irritating than retinol, which makes it promising in a powder formulation.
The final ingredient in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation that I love is soybean flour. Soybean has been shown in numerous studies to exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, to stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid production of human fibroblasts in vitro, and to lighten the appearance of sunspots after use for two weeks.
As far as product application goes, Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation goes on easily, even over sunscreen. The high concentration of mica and silica in the product makes it reflect the light, while the dimethicone makes it thicker than other Neutrogena powders I have tried in the past. It covers well and looks great, and I think it is the best choice if you are looking for light to medium coverage with skin-beneficial ingredients. Just one caveat: do not expect this or any other powder to give you sun protection. Although it says SPF 20, any powder product requires about 14 times the amount of normal powder application to receive the SPF listed on the package, so a powder with an SPF of 20 is really providing an SPF of about 1.2 with normal use.
Active Ingredients: Titanium dioxide. Inactive Ingredients: Mica, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Dimethicone, Oryza Sativa Starch (Rice), Magnesium Myristate, Methicone, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Pantothenic Acid, Panthenol, Glycine Soja Flour (Soybean), Alumina, Silk Powder, Water, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, May Contain: Iron Oxides, Nylon 12, Carmine
Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 claims to be “a long-wear formula” that “keeps pores out of trouble.” That’s always good – I was pretty upset the last time I had to go downtown and bail my pores out. (Sorry, I’ll stop putting bad humor in here, haha.)
At any rate, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 is a solid talc-based formulation. Suitable for dry skin, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 contains sodium hyaluronate, which in its unprotonated form as hyaluronic acid is a natural moisturizing factor that binds up to 1000 times its weight in water, according to one of my favorite dermatologists, Dr. Leslie Baumann. However, sodium hyaluronate, with similar water-binding abilities, is commonly used instead of hyaluronic acid in skincare products due to its greater chemical stability (Kewpie) and still-hydrating capabilities.
When applied, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 feels thicker than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation, and I feel that it provides greater (heavier) coverage. I like this product better than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder for dry skin types or for those women who would like more coverage. Still, like with the Neutrogena product, don’t expect to get an SPF of more than 1 with this product.
Ingredients (01 Fair And 04 Neutral)
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide 13.00% • Octinoxate 2.00%
Ingredients: Talc • Dimethicone • Nylon-12 • Silica • Squalane • Boron Nitride • Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer • Cetyl Caprylate • Diisostearyl Malate • Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate • Methicone • Aluminum Hydroxide • Glycerin • Sodium Hyaluronate • Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate • Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate • Palmitoyl Proline • Alumina • Tocopherol • Palmitic Acid • 1,2-Hexanediol • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate • Tin Oxide • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Iron Oxides (Ci 77499, Ci 77492, Ci 77491) • Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891)]
Ingredients (07 Deep)
Active Ingredient: Titanium Dioxide 6.90%
Ingredients: Talc • Silica • Isostearyl Palmitate • Methicone • Sodium Hyaluronate • Triethoxycaprylylsilane • Nylon-12 • Glycerin • Alumina • Tetrasodium Edta • Chlorphenesin • Potassium Sorbate • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891) • Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499)]
Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is free of talc, oil, or fragrance. Of all three powders, Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is definitely the formulation closest to Bare Escentuals, with mica, bismuth oxychloride, and iron oxides. The consistency of Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is also the most similar to Bare Escentuals, with a half-foundation/half-powder type duality, and mastery of the application technique is a must.
Ascorbyl palmitate (a form of vitamin C) and tocopherol (vitamin E) provide some additional sun protection, while retinyl palmitate helps to refine skin texture and to improve cell turnover over time. The product feels like a heavier powder but covers like a good foundation, and stays put all day. If you are looking for a mineral powder experience that is completely distinct from normal powders, then I would recommend Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup over the other two. (And again, wear sunscreen under it!!!)
Ingredients
MICA
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
KAOLIN
ZINC PCA
SODIUM HYALURONATE
SODIUM PCA
LECITHIN
UREA
C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE
SILICA DIMETHYL SILYLATE
WATER/EAU
LAURYL PCA
TREHALOSE
ASCORBYL PALMITATE
ATELOCOLLAGEN
PHENYL TRIMETHICONE
BETA-CAROTENE
POLYQUATERNIUM-51
RETINYL PALMITATE
SODIUM CHONDROITIN SULFATE
TOCOPHEROL
NYLON-12
METHYLPARABEN
PROPYLPARABEN
MAY CONTAIN:
IRON OXIDES
BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE
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May 14th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetics, Dry Skin Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Spotlight On..., Sunblocks, sunscreen |
6 comments
According to the advertisements, Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula ($12.99, Walgreens.com) will help to reverse signs of past sun damage like fine lines, discolorations, and sun spots, as well as protect against future damage.
The product claims to contain 2x the vitamin C of the usual Garnier Nutritioniste formulas. Garnier Nutritioniste products seem to always use vitamin C in the form of ascorbyl glucoside, which has been found to be more stable than L-ascorbic acid at a wider range of pH and temperatures. While it has been found that ascorbyl glucoside has the collagen-stimulating, antioxidant, skin-lightening effects of L-ascorbic acid, the only downside is that the exact concentration of ascorbyl glucoside in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is not given, whereas it is established in certain L-ascorbic acid formulations like Cellex-C contain 15% L-ascorbic acid.
Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula also contains magnesium. Magnesium has been shown to improve barrier function recovery in the skin of mice, and the company claims that magnesium also “energizes and hydrates” the skin.
The last main ingredient, lycopene, I have mixed feelings about. On the one hand, lycopene, the caroten that gives tomatoes its red pigment, has been reported by Dr. G. Todorov to be the best antioxidant among carotens, with at least twice the free-radical scavenging ability as ß-carotene. Lycopene also serves as a natural sunscreen, providing a UVB of about 3, and it is speculated that lycopene could improve cell-to-cell junctions, theoretically improving skin’s texture. A 2002 study by Offord et. al. further found that lycopene and vitamin E together, as in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, can suppress the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (collagen-digesting) mRNA. Unfortunately, the use of lycopene at all is questionable at this time, as a 2005 study by Yeh et. al demonstrated that topical application of lycopene “enhances UVA-induced oxidative stress in [mouse] fibroblast (skin) cells, and…under UVA irradiation, lycopene may produce oxidative products that are responsible for the prooxidant effects.” Although this study was done on the mouse, based on these results and similar from Offord et. al., it does not seem advisable to use lycopene in skin care products at this time.
According to reviews of Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, the product is light, non-greasy, and smells delightful. Women largely report after a few weeks’ use that their skin feels softer and smoother. However, the eradication of age spots may take a while, as blogger E. Harmon notes that she had not noticed a “huge difference in the tone or brightness” of her skin, although notes that the effect may occur “with continued use over time.” I think it all depends on the amount of ascorbyl glucoside in the product, which hasn’t been reported.
Overall, I think Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is a quality product, though it may not be as effective as products with a higher concentration of vitamin C, like Cellex-C. Still, it should improve skin’s texture, provide sun protection, and may eradicate sun spots over time. I give it a solid 7/10 (high concentration of proven ingredients: 1.5/3. New technology: 1.5/3, for the as-of-yet questionable inclusion of lycopene. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 1/1.)
Ingredients in Garnier Nutritioniste Anti Sun Damage Moisture Lotion SPF 28
Water; Isononyl Isononanote; Glycerin; Cyclohexasiloxane; Propylene Glycol; Ethylhexyl Palmitate; Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate; Butylene Glycol; Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; Dimethicone; Nylon-66; Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer; Glyceryl Stearate; Behenyl Alcohol; Solanium Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract*; Ascorbyl Glucoside**; Tocopheryl Acetate; Actindia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Water; Rosa Canina Fruit Oil; Capryloyl Salicylic Acid; Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate; Caprylyl Glycol; Magnesium PCA***; Manganese PCA***; Mica; Sodium PCA***; Titanium Dioxide; Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethyl Isosorbide; PEG-8 Laurate; Disodium EDTA; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Octyldodecanol; Polycaprolactone; Sodium Citrate; Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate; Sodium Hydroxide; Xanthan Gum; Methylparaben; Propylparaben; Butylparaben; Fragrance; Linalool; Benzyl Salicylate; Limonene; Geraniol; Citral; *Lycopene; **Vitamin C; ***Magnesium
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April 30th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Sunblocks, Wrinkle Treatments, sunscreen |
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