Although I’m only 23, I’ve noticed that stressful events make my skin look dull, thinner, and, well, just older. But I was recently curious as to whether or not science stands behind my findings, or if stress just makes you think your skin is aging.
Truth is, science verifies that stress accelerates skin’s rate of aging. According to dermatologist Dr. Amy Weschler in this month’s Shape magazine, “The skin has its own endocrine system, and releases cortisol [a stress hormone] and endorphins [calming hormones] accordingly. When cortisol levels increase, the rate of skin’s healing slows, collagen breaks down faster, and inflammation increases.” Hence, the skin looks dull, thinner, and shows lines more quickly and easily. Dr. David E. Bank, author of Beautiful Skin, adds in the book, “If you chronically stress yourself out…you deprive your skin of crucial oxygen and nutrients and aggravate any skin condition you may already have, such as eczema or acne.”
Thankfully, the same techniques that cure stress in the body soothe the skin as well. In addition to the usual anti-stress advice (sleep 7-8 hours per night, eat a healthy and balanced diet, relax more often), I love the following untraditional advice, from one of my favorite authors, Martha Beck:
- Write down the things you have to do tomorrow. Now think about how each activity makes you feel. Give each activity a rating on a scale from 1 (evokes a feeling of dread) to 10 (makes you feel like your best day ever). If your day is filled with mostly activities that fill you with dread or even a simple lack of excitement, you may not be living your best life. (And if that’s the case, I really recommend the book Finding Your North Star to find your way back. I am not being paid to say this; it is just my favorite non-dermatology book of all time!)
- Think about people, places, and events in your life that make you peaceful and happy. What do these events have in common? There is surely a common thread. For me, it’s reading, writing, learning new things, and traveling, which indicated to me as a pre-med that I should be pursuing side work in writing as well as studying to become a doctor. The website (and upcoming book
) really help me relax and make my life better on a regular basis. You too can find a rewarding activity, and help your stress levels - (and your skin 
)
- Reward yourself with fun activities - and often. For instance, after doing the laundry each week, I let myself spend half an hour reading a book or magazine.
- Look beyond yourself when you look in the mirror. For instance, stop focusing in on every little flaw, and instead, see the bigger picture, which is actually closer to how others usually perceive you. I personally started looking at the shower curtain behind me and my appearance in the bathroom mirror. Try it - It’s comforting!
For more anti-stress tips, here is an article from About.com.
While you are devoted to skin care, it’s good to know that your emotional health counts as well. Here’s to being as stress-free as possible, dear readers!
PS - Only 5 days left until the FutureDerm and Skinmedix.com giveaway!
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June 14th, 2008
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futurederm |
Cosmetic Dermatology News, The Worst Things For Your Skin |
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There are certain rumors about skin care that sound so logical, people assume they must be true. Unfortunately, sometimes the right answer is the one that combats common sense! Here are five of the most common myths about summer skin care I have recently heard:
1. SPF 100 means 100% protection.
Errrt, wrong! An SPF of 100 means that the sunscreen blocks 99.0% of UV rays. And yes, that means an SPF of 200 is not only possible, but also would theoretically only block 99.5% of UV rays. How did I get these numbers? The amount of UVB an SPF is effective at blocking can be estimated using the following algorithm from dermatologist Dr. Rachel Herschenfeld: SPF means that 1/(SPF number) of rays goes through. That means that SPF 30 allows 1/30 UVB rays, or 3.3% through, blocking about 96.6% of UVB rays, and SPF 50 allows 1/50 UVB rays, or 2.0% through, blocking about 98.0% of UVB rays. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, über-derm and author of Cosmetic Dermatology, the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) commonly listed on products refers to the amount of UVB protection, measured by the time it takes for a person without sunscreen versus a person with sunscreen to show a erythemal skin reaction (i.e., to show redness).
2. A base tan protects you from future sun damage.
Yes, it is true that darker-skinned women naturally have a slight SPF built-in to their skin (as if Halle Berry and Iman weren’t enough to make me jealous already, *sighs*). However, women who are lighter-skinned should not get a “base tan” to prevent future damage. For one, you will incur free radical and structural damage while trying to achieve the build-up of melanin that yields the bit of sun protection. And two, let’s not forget that everyone — of all skin tones — still needs sun protection: “[Melanin build-up provides an umbrella of sun protection], but the umbrella is porous - you’re still getting DNA damage, which can lead to wrinkles and skin cancer,” says NYC dermatologist Dr. Doris Day in the June issue of Allure. In other words, everyone needs sunscreen, and while dark skin naturally provides a bit of beneficial SPF, tanning lighter skin to get there isn’t benefiting you in the long run.
3. Self-tanner saves you from free radical damage.
Yes and no on this one. Yes, there is nothing proven to naturally age your faster UV light, which does pretty much everything from depleting collagen levels to inducing free radical production at monstrous levels. And if you use self-tanner and stay out of the sun as a result, then you are saving your skin. However, if you use self-tanner and then go out into the sun, you could be causing more damage: According to a 2007 study published in Germany (and cited in Allure), for 24 hours after applying a self-tanner, the skin is more susceptible to free-radical damage once being exposed to the sun.
In other words, best case scenario: avoid self-tanner, wear sunscreen, and avoid the sun between 10-4 P.M. except for 15 minutes/week (for adequate vitamin D production). Next best scenario: use self-tanner, wear sunscreen, and avoid the sun between 10-4 P.M. except for 15 minutes/week. Worst case scenario: use self-tanner, don’t wear sunscreen, and go out into the sun. Eeeeek!
4. “If my powder contains SPF, that’s enough protection.”
Oh dear. If you want to know how much SPF you are really getting from a product, divide the SPF number by 14, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann, über-dermatologist from the University of Miami. According to Baumann, scientists estimate the SPF of a facial powder assuming 1200 mg of product is used with each application, but the average woman only applies 85 mg of powder at a time, 14 times less than the estimated amount. In other words, if you want adequate sun protection, wear a moisturizer or sunscreen with SPF under your powder, even if your powder contains sunscreen.
5. SPF = UPF.
UPF, the rating system for sun protective clothing, has been getting a lot of press recently because sun protective clothing is currently popular and - dare I say it - increasingly stylish. However, unlike SPF, which quantifies only UVB protection, UPF is a number that incorporates both UVA and UVB (broad-spectrum) protection.
In general, according to Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, a UPF of 10 equals protection of about SPF 30, so a UPF of 50 equals protection of about SPF 150 (i.e., lets 1/150 rays through, providing 99.25% protection). Pretty cool, huh?
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In short, rumors were made to be about Hollywood celebrity scandals, not your skin. Let’s put an end to these 5 skin care myths, shall we?
Let me know your thoughts! After all, until June 19, 2008, every comment on FutureDerm.com counts as 1 entry in the $500 skin care giveaway from Skinmedix.com!
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May 22nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Commentary, Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Sunblocks, The Worst Things For Your Skin, sunscreen |
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I must admit, most of the time, if the FDA approves an ingredient, I am reassured after reading studies and expert opinions that it is fine. However, I was recently surprised to find that sodium lauryl sulfate, a very common detergent added to cleansers largely for the bubbling effect, is in fact a known skin irritant. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology text, “[Sodium lauryl sulfate] is such a consistent irritator for skin with an impaired barrier that it is actually used in ‘challenge patch tests’ to evaluate the barrier function of skin…it strips the natural lipids from the skin, disrupting the barrier and rendering it more susceptible to external irritants.” In The DERMADoctor Skinstruction Manual, dermatologist Dr. Audrey Kunin further advises that sodium lauryl sulfate has been additionally blamed on “chapped lips and perioral dermatitis, a rash around the mouth.” For this reason, Kunin advises those with skin irritation around the mouth to use a toothpaste without sodium lauryl sulfate, like Squigle Enamel Saver Toothpaste ($8.00, Amazon.com).
In addition, sodium lauryl sulfate can also be damaging to the hair, as reiterated in this 1999 study amongst hairdressers. For this reason, shampoos not containing sodium lauryl sulfate or similar irritants are advised, like Phillip Kingsley Moisture Balancing Shampoo and Conditioner ($18.50 each, Amazon.com). After trying this sodium lauryl sulfate-free shampoo, my hair felt very clean and looked shiny, although it was more smooth and sleek than voluminous. If smooth and sleek is what you seek (haha), then this may be a good sodium lauryl sulfate-free formulation for you. (P.S.- Although this shampoo and conditioner do contain some other potential irritants, they appear to be lower than the concentrations listed below for potential irritation.)
According to the journal Contact Dermatitis, the following ingredients were said to display “similar” signs of irritation to 2% sodium lauryl sulfate:
- 5% sodium C12-15 pareth sulfate
- 5% sodium cocoyl isethionate
- 10% disodium laureth sulfosuccinate
- 10% sodium cocoamphoacetate
- 10% cocamide DEA
- 10% cocamidopropyl betaine
- 10% lauryl glucoside
For this reason, if you have sensitive skin or have noticed irritation from a skin care product recently, try an alternative without sodium lauryl sulfate or any of the above listed alternatives. Hopefully it will be the solution!
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May 1st, 2008
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futurederm |
Spotlight On..., The Worst Things For Your Skin |
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According to a recent study reported in Best Life magazine, men who smoke are 77 percent more likely to go bald. (Women were not surveyed for this study.) A 2008 study in Archives in Dermatology reported that cigarettes wreak havoc on hair follicles. Looking to quit? Best Life suggests that you eat more fruits and vegetables, which “makes cigarettes taste bad…and will increase your chances of quitting.”
For more on women and hair loss, here is a FutureDerm article from November 9, 2007.
For more on cigarette smoking and its effects on the skin, here is a FutureDerm article from November 7, 2007.
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March 8th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Cosmetic Dermatology News, General Cosmetic Dermatology, The Worst Things For Your Skin |
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