FutureDerm.com

Perspectives from a future dermatologist

Dear FutureDerm…

I’d like to know your skincare regime. What do YOU use in the morning and night? Additional information on why you use your products is appreciated. Thanks -Ben

Dear Ben,

Thank you for your e-mail.  Here is my regime:

       Morning

  • Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser - a basic cleanser that many dermatologists love!
  • Skinceuticals Phloretin CF - with the new antioxidant that provides some sun protection, phloretin,
  • Skinceuticals CE Ferulic - used over Phloretin CF because Phloretin CF can be drying, and vitamins C and E are one of the most well-researched network antioxidant pairs, providing everything from additional sun protection to hyperpigmentation treatment to hydration
  • Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 Sunscreen - the most potent sun protection available

    Night

  • Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser
  • Green Cream Level 6 - excellent retinol cream
  • Olay Regenerist Night Cream - an excellent source of niacinamide
  • Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Cream - the best eye cream I know of for my eyes, which are prone to dark circles from late nights studying, blogging, etc.

    Hope that this helped!

    Please note that I will try to do my best to answer as many e-mails as I can, but as I currently receive between 10-20 each day, I cannot respond to every e-mail I receive.  I will try to respond to duplicate concerns on the blog!  :-)

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July 9th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Uncategorized | 7 comments

Are Popular Dermatological Procedures Worth the Cost?

Dermatological procedures are often criticized due to their high cost. Indeed, spending thousands of dollars on a single procedure is simply out of the question for many patients, particularly with the skyrocketing costs of gas, food, and energy. However, one may also argue that just a few procedures now can put off wrinkling, loss of firmness, and reduce incurred sun damage, which all adds up to greater skin (and less cosmetic costs) down the road. According to the July 2008 issue of Vogue, here’s how some of the most popular procedures measure up:

  • Thermage ($2500-3500 per session) firms sagging skin in as little as 1 session.
  • Titan ($1000-2500 per session) firms sagging skin in 3-6 sessions.
  • Fraxel ($1600 per session) can refine poor size and skin texture in 1 session, and collagen levels can be boosted in 2-3 sessions.

So what do you think? Do you think dermatological procedures are worth the cost? Let me know! And remember, one post = one entry in the Spin Lash giveaway July 8 2008! :-)

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June 24th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Uncategorized | 8 comments

What Your Nails Can Tell You About Your Health

One of the biggest indicators of good (or bad) health may be literally right in front of you all day.  According to to The Prescription for Nutritional Healing, the nails can indicate a slew of health conditions:

  • A hangnail may be indicative of a lack of protein, folic acid, or vitamin C.
  • A white band on the nail may indicate a lack of protein.
  • Fragile or ridged nails indicates a lack of B vitamins.
  • Dryness, curved or darkened ends of nails indicates a lack specifically of vitamin B12.
  • “Spoon” (concave) nails and vertical ridges indicate an iron deficiency.
  • White spots indicate a zinc deficiency.

So always remember to check your nails if you suspect a possible vitamin or protein deficiency!  :-)

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June 23rd, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Uncategorized | 2 comments

FutureDerm Picks the Best of the Beauty Blogs: Week of June 21

It’s that time again: I review the best of the beauty blogs of the past two weeks, so you don’t have to. ;-)  Here goes:

Beauty Junkie in S.F. reviews Clean and Clear new Soft In-Shower Facial ($13.07 for two, Amazon.com).  The facial contains the potent AHA glycolic acid in fair concentration, plus green tea to give a uniquely hydrating mineral facial that doesn’t break the bank!

Frappelattes gives the scoop on how to find the right sunglasses for your face, based on your facial shape.  Considering that UV rays cause 80 to 90 percent of the signs of premature aging, protecting that delicate eye area cannot be over-emphasized.  Might as well look beautiful while you do it!  :-)

Beauty Anonymous reviews the new Chillessence “Be Great” Body Care Line, which was launched in April 2008 to be free of artificial, toxic, or harmful ingredients…even the packaging materials are eco-friendly and recycled/recyclable products.  Although I do not believe that all natural skin care is usually better, if you are a friend of the green movement, Chillessence products appear to be quality!  :-)

Dr. Leslie Baumann (The Skin Guru) ‘fesses up as to why she doesn’t like mineral make-up.  Definitely a must-read for those who have made mineral a must-have for their skin!  :-)

Enjoy this week’s best posts…come back for a review of Bioessence products soon!

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June 21st, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Uncategorized | 6 comments

Announcing the Winner of the FutureDerm and Skinmedix.com $500 Skin Care Giveaway!

Congratulations to the winner of the $500 FutureDerm.com giveaway, Danielle Fitzgerald! :-) Danielle’s comment on May 23, 2008 was assigned a number, which was selected at random today at noon. Danielle will receive $500 in skin care products from Skinmedix.com! Congratulations to Danielle! :-)  And a special thank you to all who entered too!  :-)

A new round of contests, sponsored by Spin Lash and Schick for Women, will begin tomorrow (June 20, 2008). Come back to FutureDerm.com tomorrow for full entry details! :-)

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June 19th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Uncategorized | one comment

Product Review: M Lab Anti-Aging Day Treatment SPF 15

I’m all about high concentrations of potent ingredients in skin care formulations. So when I heard about M Lab products, formulated with “unprecedented levels — 45-74% — of clinically active ingredients,” I was pretty excited.

It turns out there is both good news and a little bit of bad news. The good news is, of course, that there are lots of quality, well-researched ingredients, ranging from ceramide 2 to olive oil, from retinyl palmitate to vitamin C, which together comprise 45-74% of the composition of the cream. Each of the ingredients have specific uses and cover just about everything a patient could want in an anti-aging cream:

  • free radical-fighting antioxidants vitamins C and E, coenzyme Q10, and olive oil
  • firming palmitoyl pentapeptide-7 and ceramide 2, skin-smoothing soybean extract
  • hydrating olive oil, glycerin, squalane, cholesterol, and dimethicone
  • skin-brightening arbutin
  • wrinkle-fighting retinyl palmitate and aminobutyric acid
  • broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and oxybenzone

That’s the good, or even great, news.

The sort-of bad news is that M Lab Anti-Aging Day Treatment SPF 15 fails to include especially high concentrations of any one key active ingredient. Although collectively, yes, 12 active ingredients comprise 45-74% of the composition of the product, some key ingredients, like vitamin C as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and vitamin E as tocopheryl acetate, are only found in the 1-2% range. In fact, the ingredient in highest concentration (besides the sunscreen) is aminobutyric acid, which is most likely in the 10-15% range. Limited research demonstrates that topical application of aminobutyric acid can have a wrinkle-inhibiting effect in some patients, but the effect is not universal. (I liken its effects to the diet product hoodia - for the patients it works for, it’s a miracle, but for others, it doesn’t work at all!)

Of course, I also recognize that having each of the active ingredients in the 10-15% range is a mathematical impossibility. I just wish that the cream had higher concentrations of the more scientifically researched ingredients, like vitamin C, vitamin E, olive oil, and retinyl palmitate, rather than aminobutyric acid, cholesterol, and squalane (a less-researched wrinkle-inhibitor and two hydrators).

M Lab Anti-Aging Day Treatment SPF 15 feels very smooth on the skin and drinks in quickly. It has a faint, pleasant scent reminiscent of many Clinique sun care products. And while I am a bit disappointed that the most researched ingredients are not found in even higher concentrations, I still feel that M Lab Anti-Aging Day Treatment SPF 15 makes a moisturizer ideal for the young patient who is looking to protect and prevent the skin from premature aging and to increase skin’s brightness and hydration, but not necessarily erase fine lines and wrinkles (too little retinyl palmitate for that), unless you know your skin reacts well to GABA inhibitors. I give it a solid 8.5/10. (High concentration of well-researched ingredients: 2.5/3. New technology or unique formulation: 2.5/3. Value for the money: 2.5/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).

Ingredients in M Lab Anti-Aging Day Treatment SPF 15

Aqua, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, Oxybenzone, Pentylene Glycol, Aminobutyric Acid, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Glycerin, Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate, Cholesterol, Dimethicone, PEG-40 Stearate, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Beta Glucan, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Vitis Vinifera Oil Crosspolymer, Ceramide 2, Carbomer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Olea Europaea Oil, Polysorbate-60, Vitis Vinifera Oil, Alpha Arbutin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Algin, Potassium Sorbate, Sorbitol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Xanthum Gum, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Chlorphenesin, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Polysorbate 20, Moris Aqua, Algin, Gellidiela Acerosa Extract, Glycine Soja Extract, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Retinyl Palmitate, Sargassum Filipendula Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Citrate, Atelocollagen, Evodia Rutaecarpa Extract, Ubiquinone, Sodium Hydroxide, Serine, Sodium Hyaluronate

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June 9th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Product Reviews, Uncategorized | 9 comments

Celebrate the Sex and the City Premiere with a Facial Cocktail!

What better way to celebrate the Sex and the City movie premiere than with cocktails (like the ladies themselves)? :-) Here is a cocktail for your face, as well as a Cosmopolitan recipe with NUVO Sparkling Liqueur:

Image source: Pro.Corbis.com

The At-Home Facial Cocktail for Softer, More Hydrated Skin

What You’ll Need:

  • 1 California Avocado (California avocados are the type of choice because of their high oil content)
  • 1/4 cup of plain yogurt

According to Shalini Vadhera, celebrity make-up artist and author of Passport to Beauty, the avocado should be smashed first, then the yogurt added. Once mixed, brush the mask on your face, and allow to chill for about twenty minutes.

Why it works: Avocados have been known for their hydrating properties in moisturizers from some time, as cited in a 1995 study in Archives of Dermatological Research.  There is also a limited amount of evidence suggesting that avocados may improve the skin’s defensive functions, as published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science.

Why yogurt works well comes down to the milk in the product, which contains lactic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid.  Although the preferred alpha hydroxy acid is usually glycolic acid (because glycolic acid increases the thickness and firmness of the skin over time, while lactic acid does not), lactic acid is able to hydrate the skin extremely well.  In fact, prescription LacHydrin, with ammonium lactate (a relative of lactic acid) is used to treat dry skin.

The Nuvo Liqueur Cosmopolitan (not for your face ;-) )

What You’ll Need:

  • 1 part ultra premium Vodka
  • 2 parts Nuvo Liqueur
  • Ice in a martini glass

According to a friend of mine who sent me this recipe, Nuvo Liqueur is the first sparkling liqueur ever made, - a blend of vodka, some delicate French sparkling wine, and a touch of natural fruit nectar.  She sent me the recipe in honor of the Sex and the City premiere.  And while I don’t drink much, if I were to have a Cosmo for the Sex and the City premiere, I’d definitely use her recipe!  :-)

A Note About the Movie

I saw it today (it was my day off work!!), and it was fabulous.  When I wasn’t crying tears of sympathy or laughter, I was drooling over the incredible handbags and outfits.  Ladies, if you loved Sex and the City on TV, you have to go and see this movie!  :-)

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May 30th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Cosmetic Dermatology News, Uncategorized | 10 comments

Product Review: Olay Definity Deep Penetrating Foaming Moisturizer

Avril Lavigne has perfect skin - and is a fan of Olay Definity, according to the June 2, 2008 issue of OK! Magazine. Photo source: ChrisOnRails.Wordpress.com

Olay Definity Deep Penetrating Foaming Moisturizer ($11.69, Amazon.com) claims to “penetrate 10 surface layers of skin” to treat “discoloration, dullness, brown spots, and wrinkles for luminous skin.” Sounds great…and affordable too!

Unfortunately, this is an instance of a great product with a claim that frustrates me. The statement “penetrating 10 surface layers deep” is actually an impossibility. The epidermis, the surface layer of the skin, only has five layers: stratum corneum, stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum granulosum. To imply “10 surface layers” indicates that the company is employing its own skin layer-numbering system, and really, who knows how deep each of these 10 new layers even goes?!

Which is unfortunate, really, because Olay Definity Deep Penetrating Foaming Moisturizer is actually a great product. It contains a fairly high concentration of niacinamide and glucosamine, two ingredients that have been proven in numerous studies to reduce the appearance of age spots and increase skin’s brightness with regular use over time. Niacinamide has also been shown by Bissett et. al (amongst others) to increase skin’s hydration levels and reduce the appearance of fine lines wrinkles over time. The moisturizer further rises to greatness with the inclusion of aloe and vitamin E, both of which have been proven to soothe and hydrate the skin.

After using Olay Definity Deep Penetrating Foaming Moisturizer the first time, dry skin flaked off like crazy, which I thought was especially great, considering that I keep my skin very well-moisturized! It was a nice, completely unexpected effect! The texture of the foam is very light, which I also liked a lot, making the foam perfect for applying before sunscreen each morning and a heavier moisturizer at night. In fact, the moisturizer is designed before morning use with Olay Definity Deep Penetrating UV Moisturizer SPF 15, which has a thicker texture and offers some sun protection. Personally, because I like a higher SPF, I use Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85 after [Skinceuticals CE Ferulic and] Olay Definity Deep Penetrating Foaming Moisturizer, but Olay Definity Deep Penetrating UV Moisturizer SPF 15 works well too.

Overall, although the “10 layers of skin” claim initially bothered me, when I realized that the product has effective, scientifically-proven ingredients, hydrates, and works very well under sunscreen, I was willing to give Olay Definity Deep Penetrating Foaming Moisturizer a break — and a permanent place on my bathroom shelf! Definitely a winner, and a must-have for skin care fanatics. Product rating: 8.5/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. New technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1. And a -0.5, just because, let’s face it, I had to do something about the “layers of skin”!! ;-) )

Active Ingredients: Octisalate (3.8%), Avobenzone (1.9%), Ensulizole (0.95%), Octocrylene (0.95%)

Inactive Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Isopropyl Isostearate, Isobutane, Propane, Acetyl Glucosamine, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Polyethylene, Triethanolamine, Panthenol, Polysorbate 20, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylparaben, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG 100 Stearate, Propylparaben, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Methylparaben, Pentadecalactone, Carthamus Tinctoria (Safflower) Seed Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Extract, Soluble Collagen, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Lecithin, Plankton Extract, Phosphoric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tin Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, Mica

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May 28th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Best Products, Best Products, Product Reviews, Uncategorized | 7 comments

What Saved My Irritated Skin: Intelligent Aesthetics

Intelligent Aesthetics Primer is step 2 in the kit that saved my skin.

So, recently, I started trying a lot of skin care creams (hey, a blogger’s gotta do what a blogger’s gotta do. ;-) ) And, what do you know, I ended up with a pretty bad case of contact dermatitis, resulting in a horrible itchy rash that not even two weeks’ worth of prescription hydrocortisone could cure.

But then someone turned me on to Intelligent Aesthetics Gentle Cleansing Gel ($30.00), Comforting Skin Primer ($20.00) and AM/PM Healing Complex ($28.00).  Immediately after using the products, my red, inflamed skin felt smoother and cooler. (And no, as usual, I am not being paid to say this.) The next day, my skin looked to be healing, and it felt comfortable for the first time in weeks. I’m not completely cured yet, but let me tell you, I am well on my way and I love this stuff.

Science backs it up, too. Two of the ingredients in the Intelligent Aesthetics Gentle Cleansing System are willow extract and chamomile, which have been shown in numerous studies to have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Another great ingredient is oat extract. A 2002 study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology found that topical application of practical concentrations of Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract reduced skin irritation in the majority of the individuals studied. Avena Sativa (Oat) extract has also been documented to be effective as a soothing and anti-inflammatory agent in the journal Phytotherapy. Other great ingredients in the line include hydrating vitamin E, anti-aging retinyl palmitate, and antioxidant vitamin C.

But my favorite ingredient in Intelligent Aesthetics Gentle Cleansing System is actually the blend of peppermint and spearmint extracts. Although the menthol that distinguishes peppermint from spearmint is sometimes touted as an irritant, both peppermint and spearmint have long been established as anti-inflammatory agents, according to the text Herbal Medicine and Botanical Medical Fields. The blend of mint extracts left my skin feeling cool, clean, and refreshed…completely unlike the itchy discomfort of contact dermatitis.

I highly recommend this line to anyone without a menthol allergy who is suffering from irritated skin! I love it!! :-) 9.5/10 (no sunscreen)

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May 20th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Dry Skin Treatments, Uncategorized, eczema treatments | 16 comments

FutureDerm Summer Giveaway: Win $500 in Skin Care Products From SkinMedix.com!

Yes, it’s almost summer, and what better way to start it off than with a new skin care regime. Thanks to SkinMedix.com, FutureDerm.com is holding its first big giveaway, with over $500 worth of skin care products to one lucky winner!

The lucky winner will receive:

Seven sample packs of Skinceuticals’ best products (each pack lasts 2-3 months!) of all of the following:

There are two ways to enter.

One, leave a thoughtful/insightful comment (just not spam!) on ANY post on FutureDerm.com with your name and e-mail address for the next 30 days (until 11:59 PM June 18, 2008). One comment = one entry!

Two, link to FutureDerm.com from any other blog, website, or forum. (To be sure you get your entries, send a link to the page to: contest [at] futurederm.com). One link = five entries!) :-)

The winner will be chosen at random on June 19, 2008.

Each entry will be assigned a number; on June 19, 2008 at 12 PM EST, I will run a random-number generator program and the winner will be contacted to receive all of the above products! :-) I’m really excited about this contest, so please, enter soon!

What is SkinMedix.com?

SkinMedix.com is a discounted skin care site that sells skin care products from great brands like RevaléSkin, Jan Marini, and Skinceuticals. However, what makes SkinMedix.com unique is that it sells samples and large sizes of a lot of the brands at a major discount. For instance, I usually pay $107.00 for a 1 oz. bottle of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic on sale, but six 0.16 oz samples (amounting to 1 oz. total) is only $28.99. It’s a great way for money-savvy women to save on their skin care. For a limited time, SkinMedix.com is offering 10% off to FutureDerm.com readers. Enter coupon code “FUTUREDERM” at checkout, and automatically receive 10% off your order!

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May 19th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Uncategorized | 80 comments

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