L’Oreal Wrinkle Decrease Collagen Filler ($19.14, Amazon.com) claims to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles with a collagen-based filler. According to the company, “in 1 week, 38% saw fewer forehead wrinkles…In 3 weeks, 46% saw fewer forehead wrinkles.” However, similar percentages of satisfaction have been reported for well-packaged placebo products. Still, let’s give L’Oreal Wrinkle Decrease Collagen Filler a fair assessment, shall we? 
Here goes…
Boswelox®
Boswelox® is the registered trademark name for B. serrata extract. According to a 2004 study in Contact Dermatitis:
“B. serrata is a tree from the Burseraceae family commonly found in India, northern Africa and the Middle East. Strips of its bark yield a gummy oleoresin which contains oils, terpenoids and gum. Its active principle consists of 4 pentacyclic triterpenes, β-boswellic acid being the major one. Extracts of this oleoresin have been used as a folk medicine for centuries in Ayurdevic medicine in India. Boswellic acids have anti-inflammatory properties inhibiting leukotriene biosynthesis via non-competitive inhibition of 5-lipoxygenase. Boswellia extract tablets have been employed for asthma, arthritic conditions and ulcerative colitis and other chronic inflammatory diseases.” Topical administration for cutaneous burns and ulcers or as a cosmetic agent is increasingly being used in Western countries, although there is limited scientific evidence about its safety and effectiveness.”
According to the study in Contact Dermatitis, only one instance of side effects - contact dermatitis - had been reported at the time, although more instances were anticipated due to the ingredient’s increasing inclusion in cosmetic products. If you experience symptoms, talk to your physician or dermatologist.
Atelocollagen
Atelocollagen has recently been recognized as an effective delivery agent for proteins, DNA, and RNA. Unfortunately, delivery of atelocollagen into the skin has not as of yet been shown to stimulate collagen production. Collagen has only been demonstrated to be an effective hydrating reagent in skin care products.
More of a cosmetic product than anything else
According to the company, the appearance of wrinkles and expression lines is softened and diffused by up to 20% immediately upon use. This is due to two major factors: one, the inclusion of cyclohexasiloxane, which is a silicone-based filler, and two, the hydrating ingredients, which temporarily plump up the skin, creating the illusion of firmness. However, none of the ingredients in this product are well-recognized to stimulate collagen production or relax muscles.
Overall Opinions…
I would not buy this product. With so many collagen-stimulating and wrinkle-relaxing treatments available in the cosmeceuticals market and from your dermatologist, why bother with L’Oreal Wrinkle Decrease Collagen Filler as merely a cosmetic treatment? Product Rating: 2/10. (Value for the money: 1/3. New technology: 1/3. High concentrations of proven ingredients: 0/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Product Ingredients
Water - Aqua , Glycerin , Squalane , Shea Butter - Butyrospermum Parkii , Cyclohexasiloxane , Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate , Poly C10-39 Alkyl Acrylate , Sucrose Stearate , Beeswax - Cera Alba , Cyclopentasiloxane , Sodium Polyacrylate , Stearic Acid , Silica , Paraffin , Dipropylene Glycol , Tocopheryl Acetate , Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer , Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate , Dimethiconol , Manganese Gluconate , Padina Pavonica Extract - Padina Pavonica , Boswellia Serrata Extract - Boswellia Serrata , Sodium Hyaluronate , Atelocollagen , Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate , Silica Dimethyl Silylate , Sodium Hydroxide , Methylparaben , Propylparaben , Chlorphenesin , Phenoxyethanol , Fragrance - Parfum , Butylphenyl Methylpropional , Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone , Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde , Benzyl Salicylate , Linalool , Hexyl Cinnamal , Citronellol
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
March 17th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Product Reviews, Worst Products, Worst Products |
one comment
Sephora’s newest skin care line is for the face. Photo courtesy Sephora.com.
Sephora, the LVMH-owned beauty chain of 518 stores in 16 countries, has recently released a new facial skin care line. One product, the Sephora Age Prevention Moisturizer for Normal Skin ($20, Sephora.com) claims to “act like a shield, protecting skin from sun and free-radicals which cause signs of aging.” However, does the product live up to the claims? Or would you be better off spending your $20 on drugstore moisturizers?
Not a great source of antioxidants
Based on the ingredients list, Sephora Age Prevention Moisturizer for Normal Skin contains less than 1% of all of its major antioxidants, including vitamin E (tocopherol), green tea (camellia sinesis leaf extract), and vitamin C (ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbic acid). Compare this to a similarly priced product like Olay Regenerist Night Recovery Treatment ($17.14, Amazon.com), and you can clearly see the Olay Regenerist Night Recovery Treatment has superior ingredients, including a higher concentration of vitamin E and green tea than the Sephora product, as well as a high concentration of beneficial niacinamide.
Not a source of proven anti-aging peptides
Sephora Age Prevention Moisturizer for Normal Skin contains “rice nutripeptides.” Unfortunately, this is one of those times in which a name, “peptide,” is not what it seems. A rice nutripeptide is nothing more than a peptide sequence [of amino acids] derived from rice. Unfortunately, no published scientific studies to date have documented any benefits to the inclusion of rice nutripeptides in skin care products. In addition, while the amino acid content of skin is lessened in dry or scaly skin, it has never been found in independent scientific studies that applying amino acids to the skin restores moisturization or stimulates the skin to regenerate amino acids.
This is misleading, because some peptides (not rice nutripeptide) have been shown in scientific research to stimulate collagen production in the skin. Two of these are palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 and palmitoyl oligopeptide. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 is the amino acid sequence lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine, which has been demonstrated to stimulate feedback regulation of new collagen synthesis and to result in an increased production of extracellular matrix proteins (types I and II collagen and fibronectin). For these reasons, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 is increasingly popular in skin care products. On the other hand, palmitoyl oligopeptide is a sequence of peptides that reads valine-glycine-valine-alanine-proline-glycine, combined with a palmitic acid in order to increase penetration through the epidermis. A 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy suggests that palmitoyl oligopeptide significantly stimulates human skin collagen production in fibroblasts, which may slow the degradation of collagen over time.
A source of hydrating ingredients and sunscreen
The only things Sephora Age Prevention Moisturizer for Normal Skin has going for it are its plethora of hydrating ingredients and its broad-spectrum, UVA/UVB sunscreen. Pick an emollient, and it’s here: butylene glycol, glycerin, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol, shea butter…the list goes on. Unfortunately, hydrating ingredients are available in a wide range of creams, and many have additional benefits to offer.
As a result…
I am not a fan of this product. Product Rating: 2/10 (Ingredients with substantive research backing in high concentration: 1/3 [only emollient ingredients], New technology: 0/3, Value for the money: 0/3, Sunscreen: 1/1).
If you are looking for superior antioxidant treatments, I recommend Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($103.70, Amazon.com), Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum ($68.00, Cellbone.com), Revalé Skin Night Cream with 1% Coffeeberry ($99.00, PrSkincare.com) or Topix Replenix Cream. ($43.00, MakeMeHeal.com).
If you are looking for a peptide treatment with antioxidants, I recommend DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Facial Cream ($72.00, DERMAdoctor.com).
And if you are looking for a peptide treatment with antioxidants in this price range, I recommend Olay Regenerist Night Recovery Treatment ($17.14, Amazon.com).
Active ingredients: Octinoxate 7.4%, Octocrylene 2%, Titanium Dioxide 1.05%. Other indredients: Water, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Capriylic Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Shea Butter, PEG-40 Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Shorbitan Tristearate, Nylon-12, Fragrance, Hexyl Laurate, Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Methylparaben, Propylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Maltodextrin, Alumina, Butylparaben, Sodium Hydroxide, Carnosine, Ethylparaben, PEG-8, Isobutylparaben, Propylparaben, Tocopherol, Camellia Sinesis Leaf Extract, Hydrolized Rice Protein, BHT, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sorbitol, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid.
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
February 18th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Product Reviews, Worst Products |
one comment
