L’Oreal Wrinkle Decrease Collagen Filler ($19.14, Amazon.com) claims to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles with a collagen-based filler. According to the company, “in 1 week, 38% saw fewer forehead wrinkles…In 3 weeks, 46% saw fewer forehead wrinkles.” However, similar percentages of satisfaction have been reported for well-packaged placebo products. Still, let’s give L’Oreal Wrinkle Decrease Collagen Filler a fair assessment, shall we? 
Here goes…
Boswelox®
Boswelox® is the registered trademark name for B. serrata extract. According to a 2004 study in Contact Dermatitis:
“B. serrata is a tree from the Burseraceae family commonly found in India, northern Africa and the Middle East. Strips of its bark yield a gummy oleoresin which contains oils, terpenoids and gum. Its active principle consists of 4 pentacyclic triterpenes, β-boswellic acid being the major one. Extracts of this oleoresin have been used as a folk medicine for centuries in Ayurdevic medicine in India. Boswellic acids have anti-inflammatory properties inhibiting leukotriene biosynthesis via non-competitive inhibition of 5-lipoxygenase. Boswellia extract tablets have been employed for asthma, arthritic conditions and ulcerative colitis and other chronic inflammatory diseases.” Topical administration for cutaneous burns and ulcers or as a cosmetic agent is increasingly being used in Western countries, although there is limited scientific evidence about its safety and effectiveness.”
According to the study in Contact Dermatitis, only one instance of side effects - contact dermatitis - had been reported at the time, although more instances were anticipated due to the ingredient’s increasing inclusion in cosmetic products. If you experience symptoms, talk to your physician or dermatologist.
Atelocollagen
Atelocollagen has recently been recognized as an effective delivery agent for proteins, DNA, and RNA. Unfortunately, delivery of atelocollagen into the skin has not as of yet been shown to stimulate collagen production. Collagen has only been demonstrated to be an effective hydrating reagent in skin care products.
More of a cosmetic product than anything else
According to the company, the appearance of wrinkles and expression lines is softened and diffused by up to 20% immediately upon use. This is due to two major factors: one, the inclusion of cyclohexasiloxane, which is a silicone-based filler, and two, the hydrating ingredients, which temporarily plump up the skin, creating the illusion of firmness. However, none of the ingredients in this product are well-recognized to stimulate collagen production or relax muscles.
Overall Opinions…
I would not buy this product. With so many collagen-stimulating and wrinkle-relaxing treatments available in the cosmeceuticals market and from your dermatologist, why bother with L’Oreal Wrinkle Decrease Collagen Filler as merely a cosmetic treatment? Product Rating: 2/10. (Value for the money: 1/3. New technology: 1/3. High concentrations of proven ingredients: 0/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Product Ingredients
Water - Aqua , Glycerin , Squalane , Shea Butter - Butyrospermum Parkii , Cyclohexasiloxane , Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate , Poly C10-39 Alkyl Acrylate , Sucrose Stearate , Beeswax - Cera Alba , Cyclopentasiloxane , Sodium Polyacrylate , Stearic Acid , Silica , Paraffin , Dipropylene Glycol , Tocopheryl Acetate , Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer , Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate , Dimethiconol , Manganese Gluconate , Padina Pavonica Extract - Padina Pavonica , Boswellia Serrata Extract - Boswellia Serrata , Sodium Hyaluronate , Atelocollagen , Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate , Silica Dimethyl Silylate , Sodium Hydroxide , Methylparaben , Propylparaben , Chlorphenesin , Phenoxyethanol , Fragrance - Parfum , Butylphenyl Methylpropional , Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone , Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde , Benzyl Salicylate , Linalool , Hexyl Cinnamal , Citronellol
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
March 17th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Product Reviews, Worst Products, Worst Products |
one comment
Distinct from the Estée Lauder ReNutriv Ultimate Youth Creme (see yesterday’s post), Estée Lauder ReNutriv Intensive Lifting Creme ($158.00, Estée Lauder.com) contains 54 “precious” ingredients and claims to “sustain hydration over time with special moisture magnets.” Yet, does Estée Lauder ReNutriv Intensive Lifting Creme live up to its claims? Or, like yesterday’s Estée Lauder ReNutriv Ultimate Youth Creme, is it overpriced and underdelivering?
Not much of a “lifting” cream
Although marketed with “intensive lifting” in its name, Estée Lauder ReNutriv Intensive Lifting Creme does not contain any ingredients that have been shown in published scientific studies to actually lift the skin. This is in contrast to other products that exist on the market; for example, those with 3% DMAE have been shown in published scientific studies to firm the skin, giving the appearance of a lift. However, I am rather disappointed that the cream does not contain more established firming ingredients, particularly for the cost.
“Moisture Magnets”
The product contains phytosphingosine, which has been reported in the journal Molecular Medicine to stimulate the differentiation of human keratinocytes in vitro, which indicates that the product may help increase cell turnover. A 2005 study in the International Journal of Pharmaceutics further reported that phytosphingosine helps increase skin elasticity and hydration in human subjects. Other moisturizing ingredients include cyclopentsiloxane, glyceryl distearate, petrolatum, butylene glycol, glyceryl stearate SE, pesea gratisssima sterols (avocado sterols), dimethicone, sodium hyaluronate, collagen, glycerin, and cetyl alcohol, amongst others.
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Palmitoyl oligopeptide is a sequence of peptides that reads valine-glycine-valine-alanine-proline-glycine combined with a palmitic acid in order to increase penetration through the epidermis. A 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy suggests that palmitoyl oligopeptide significantly stimulates human skin collagen production in fibroblasts, which may slow the degradation of collagen over time. On the other hand, palmitoyl oligopeptide has been found to down-regulate elastin expression. From one point of view, this is not a bad thing - as stated in Cosmetic Dermatology, elastin expression naturally increases with age, but the elastin cross-fibers grow in a less organized pattern than in individuals at a younger age, so down-regulating unorganized elastin expression may be a good thing. On the other hand, products that stimulate elastin production (like Relastin Eye Silk) have been found to increase the firmness of the skin, so down-regulating elastin expression may not be a good thing, either.
In addition, keep in mind that not all “amino acid peptides” are the same. The palmitoyl oligopeptide in this product is not to be confused with the most popularly studied signal peptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 or Matrixyl® (Sederma). Matrixyl® is the sequence lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (KTTKS) has been demonstrated to stimulate feedback regulation of new collagen synthesis and to result in an increased production of extracellular matrix proteins (types I and II collagen and fibronectin), and is found in products like DermaQuest Peptide Mobilizer Serum ($188, DrSkinSpa.com).
Fish (Pisces) Collagen
I have said it before: collagen in skin care products serves as little more than a moisturizing reagent. Adding collagen to a skin care cream is like adding a loaf of bread to a bread recipe - adding bread doesn’t give you bread, just like adding collagen doesn’t make you collagen. This is because, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, topically applied collagen is too large to fit through the stratum corneum [uppermost layer of the skin], as collagens have a molecular weight of 15000 to 50000 daltons, whereas only molecules of molecular weight 5000 or less can typically penetrate the skin.
Overall: Not a favorite…
For all of the promises of the 54 ingredients, Estée Lauder ReNutriv Intensive Lifting Creme, in my opinion, is not worth the money. The positives: phytosphingosine and palmitoyl oligopeptide will build collagen over time, and the cream is extremely hydrating. However, it does not contain the most studied/most popular amino acid peptide (palmitoyl pentapeptide-3), nor does it contain the most potent antioxidants or combinations thereof, nor does it contain some of the most frequently dermatologist-recommended anti-aging ingredients (retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, antioxidants, sunscreen). Add in the fact that the product is $158 for 1.7 oz. and $500 for 8.4 oz., and it’s definitely on my least-favorite list. Product rating: 5/10 (builds collagen over time and is hydrating, but few ingredients dermatologists recommend regularly (not even sunscreen!), and a high price tag, particularly for what you are getting)
One note: considering that I dislike both Estée Lauder ReNutriv Intensive Lifting Creme and yesterday’s Estée Lauder ReNutriv Ultimate Youth Creme, please don’t think that I have anything against Estée Lauder products (I think brand bias, in general, makes for poor product reviews). Some products by the company with quality ingredients are Estée Lauder DayWear Plus Multi-Protection AntiOxidant SPF 30 Lotion for Normal/Combination Skin ($38.00, EstéeLauder.com) and Estée Lauder Idealist Pore Minimizing Skin Refresher ($42.00, EstéeLauder.com).
The 54 “Precious” Ingredients
In case you were curious, from a box of Estée Lauder ReNutriv Intensive Lifting Creme, here are the 54 “precious” ingredients: water, cyclopentsiloxane, glyceryl distearate, octyldodecyl octyldodecanate, steareth-10, petrolatum, butylene glycol, glyceryl stearate SE, pesea gratisssima sterols (avocado sterols), dimethicone, phytosteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl lauryl glutamate, sodium hyaluronate, palmitoyl oligopeptide, coleus barbatus extract, silybum marianum (lady’s thistle), phytosphingosine, collagen, aleuritic acid, sucrose, linoleic acid, palmitoyl hydroxypropyl trimonium, amylopectin/glyceryl crosspolymer, sea whip extract, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, sodium chondroitin sulfate, grape seed extract, micrococcus lysate, caffeine, cholesterol, glyceryl polymetharylate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, panthethine, lecitin, xanthin gum, cis-14 isoparaffin, cetyl ricinoleate, acetyl glucosamine, laureth-7, sodium polyacrylate, glycerin, cetyl alcohol, PEG-8/polyacrylamide, citric acid, disodium EDTA, fragrance, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, Yellow 5 Cl 19140, Yellow 6 Cl 5955, Red 4 Cl 14706, Patents Pending.
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
January 30th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Dry Skin Treatments, Firming Treatments, Worst Products |
2 comments
With an estimated seventeen million Americans suffering from acne, it’s no wonder that there is a plethora of acne medications and treatments. One of the latest is the Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Acne Therapeutic System, which contains 5% benzoyl peroxide in the second step. It claims to “clear, soothe, and protect your skin” in one convenient system. But is the system worth $105.00 (SkincareRx.com), with each of the three steps sold for $64.95 separately?
Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Daily Care Cream Cleanser (Step 1)
Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Daily Care Cream Cleanser claims to “removes dirt, oil, makeup and all other impurities while moisturizing and soothing the skin,” and based on the ingredients, it does just that, as a simple cleanser with soothing lavender extract. Unfortunately, there are two foreseeable problems with the cleanser. One is that, for $31.95, there are much cheaper gentle cleansers (although most do not have the lavender, but still). One highly dermatologist-recommended cleanser is Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, available for $10.75 from Amazon.com. The second problem with Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Daily Care Cream Cleanser is that it does not contain salicyclic acid like many other anti-acne cleansers, which can unclog the pores. One source with salicyclic acid is Aveeno Clear Complexion Cleansing Bar ($6.75, Amazon.com).
As such, if you are looking for gentle cleansers, there are cheaper cleansers available, and if you are looking for anti-acne cleansers, there are certainly much more effective ones out there.
Ingredients: Water, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Arginine Cocoate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Ammonium Cocoyl Isethionate, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Mentha Citrata (Bergamot) Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Extract, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben
Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Therapeutic Lotion (Step 2)
At $64.95 per bottle when sold separately, one would hope that Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Therapeutic Lotion provided much more acne fighting potential than drugstore varieties and cheaper products. Unfortunately, products like Neutrogena On the Spot Vanishing Formula contain just as much benzoyl peroxide for much less money, and MD Formulations Benzoyl Peroxide 10 contains twice as much benzoyl peroxide for (you guessed it) less money too. Furthermore, benzoyl peroxide may not always be the answer for acne. Although benzoyl peroxide is often applied topically to the skin to kill P. acnes, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann, as many as 60 percent of acne patients exhibit antibiotic-resistant strains of P.acnes, so antibacterial agents may not always be the answer.
In addition, you may not want to apply the benzoyl peroxide in Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Therapeutic Lotion all over your face. Benzoyl peroxide is more appropriate as a spot treatment, as benzoyl peroxide has been found by Nacht et. al. to kill bacteria by generating reactive oxygen species in the sebaceous follicle, and hence generates oxidative free radicals that contribute to prematurely aged skin.
Ingredients: Benzyl Benzoate, BHT, Dicaprylyl Ether, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 60, Propylene Glycol, Squalane, Water (Aqua).
Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Therapeutic Moisturizer (Step 3)
Also at $64.95 a tube, Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Therapeutic Moisturizer claims to “hydrates and protects the skin, without clogging your pores.” The product contains 20% glycerin and 1% dimethicone, which calls to mind the $8.00 Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Lotion (for six times as much product)! The product does not contain any anti-aging antioxidants, AHAs or retinoids, or even sunscreen. For $64.95, or even for a third of the $105 for the Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Therapeutic Set, I would not recommend this product.
Ingredients: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Butylparaben, Cetyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparaben, Triethanolamine, Water
Overall opinions?
There are certainly better over-the-counter treatments for acne; for some recommendations, please visit this post. This product line is an unfortunate example of cases where drugstore products can be found that are superior, despite their much lower price tag. In all, I would say, don’t spend your money on the Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Acne Therapeutic System. Product rating: 2/10 (only active ingredient is 5% benzoyl peroxide in step 2; no other acne treatments; no anti-aging ingredients; no sunscreen)
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
January 18th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Worst Products |
2 comments
Recently, a reader asked me to research and review Remergent High Intensity DNA Repair SPF 30 ($94.95, SkincareRx.com). The company’s “super concentrated” product claims to “protect your skin from the sun as well as help to regenerate your skin and heal the damage that has already been done.” But does the product live up to the hype?
Not “super” concentrated, after all
Based on the ingredients list provided by SkincareRx.com, the product is a physical sunscreen with 5.1% Titanium Dioxide and 0.97% Zinc Oxide. Unfortunately, many products, like Blue Lizard Australian Suncream for Sensitive Skin ($13.19 for two, Amazon.com) provide more sun protection, with 5.0% Titanium Dioxide and over ten times the Zinc Oxide, with a full 10% Zinc Oxide. It may also be noted that microfine zinc oxide absorbs appreciably more UV light in the long-wave UVA spectrum from 340 to 380 nm, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook. As a result, Remergent High Intensity DNA Repair SPF 30 does not provide more concentrated zinc oxide than other cheaper competitors.
Two network antioxidants, vitamin C and vitamin E, are included in the product as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and tocopheryl acetate, respectively. The combination of vitamin C and vitamin E synergistically enhance the power of one another, and have been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines (although in different forms of C and E). Vitamin C and vitamin E have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen. Unfortunately, vitamin C and vitamin E are in low concentration in this product, as they are both amongst the bottom three ingredients on the list.
Extremely hydrating
The product contains cetearyl alcohol (which is one of the hydrating alcohols), glycerin, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside, and several other ingredients as emollients. Unfortunately, this gives the product a very thick texture that is unappealing to some users.
Overall?
I do not like this product. It contains little vitamin C and vitamin E for the money, and its sun protection can be beaten for a fraction of the cost. Save your money! Or, if you are going to spend this much on antioxidant vitamins C and E and sunscreen, try one of my favorite products, Skinceuticals C E Ferulic ($95.99, Amazon.com), which contains a full 15% vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid, vitamin E as tocopherol acetate, and ferulic acid as a stabilizer, with a potent broad spectrum (UVA/UVB) sunscreen layered over top, like Neutrogena Dry Touch Ultra Sheer Sunblock SPF 70 ($18.49 for two, Amazon.com), . Overall rating of Remergent High Intensity DNA Repair SPF 30: 2/10 (expensive, good antioxidants but very low concentration of them, decent sun protection but not for the cost!)
Ingredients
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide 5.1%, Octinoxate 5%, Oxybenzone 3%, Zinc Oxide 0.97%. Other Ingredients: Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Alumina, Arachidyl Glucoside, Behenyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate/Triethoxycarpylylsilane, Crosspolymer, Lecithin, Micrococus Lysate, Plankton Extract, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Steareth-2, Steareth-21, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Xanthan Gum
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
December 28th, 2007
Posted by
futurederm |
Sunblocks, Worst Products |
one comment
Although you may not be thinking of sunscreen in the winter months, think again: damaging UV rays can bounce off of the opaque snow, right onto your face. Furthermore, about fifty percent of UV rays penetrate through car and home windows, contributing to the majority of cumulative sun damage year-round. With that said, you really do need to be wearing sunscreen every single day, even in the winter. Is L’Oréal Revitalift UV with Mexoryl SX SPF 15 ($18.85, SaleAwaySavings.com) worth your money? Or are there other sunscreens on the market that provide better UVA and/or UVB protection?
What is Mexoryl?
Mexoryl (ecamsule) is an ingredient in chemical sunscreens that has been available in Europe for many years, and which came to the U.S. only this year. Mexoryl, available as SX (water soluble) and XL (lipid soluble), is very effective for two reasons: one, it is very stable [as a benzylidene camphor derivative], and two, because it absorbs light at a broader range of UVA wavelengths than many other sunscreens. After absorbing light from this broad spectrum, ecamsule undergoes photoisomerization, followed by photoexcitation, which means that it causes for UV light to be released as thermal energy rather than allowing for UV light to be absorbed into the skin and cause damage, as most chemical sunscreens do. Additionally, Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL are even more stable than each alone; however, Mexoryl XL is often too oily for some with sensitive skin, and so only Mexoryl SX is featured in L’Oréal products sold in the U.S.
Until FDA approval in 2006, Mexoryl was not available in the U.S., and many who knew of their high PD and PPD ratings from Europe ordered products (like LaRoche Posay Anthelios SX, $29.00, Dermstore.com) with Mexoryl SX and/or Mexoryl XL online. However, the coveted ingredient is today available in the U.S. in sunscreens by L’Oreal, such as L’Oréal Revitalift UV with Mexoryl SX SPF 15.
Does Mexoryl feature the best UVA protection on the market at this time?
At this time, products in the U.S. do not quantify the amount of UVA protection in a product, so this is hard to determine from published data. However, products in the U.S. must feature UVA protection on a 1-to-4-star scale by 2009. Already in Europe, the IPD (immediate pigment darkening assay) and the PFA or PPD (persistent pigment darkening assay) are used to assess UVA protection.
In a 2004 study by Moyal, it was demonstrated that products containing Mexoryl (chemical name Ecamsule) had higher UVA protection than sunscreens without Mexoryl. However, these Mexoryl-containing sunscreens were not compared to Neutrogena sunscreens with Helioplex. Helioplex is a stabilized, patented combination of oxybenzone and avobenzone that has been demonstrated in clinical tests to provide longer-lasting UVA protection than most other sunscreens. In comparing mexoryl and Helioplex, Neutrogena Ultra Sheer SPF 70 has been reported to have a PFA value of 23.3 or 26.5, interestingly higher than the reported PFA value of 10 for Mexoryl SX and XL in combination. Based on the current reported PFA data, it seems that Neutrogena Ultra Sheer SPF 70 provides better UVA protection than Mexoryl; however, these numbers are only speculative, as they have not been directly compared in any known independent published study.
Is SPF 15 enough UVB protection?
A 1997 study by Stokes et al. cited by Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, it was found that most users achieve a mean SPF of between 20 and 50 percent of that expected from the product label, because they do not apply the sunscreen as thickly as in laboratory conditions (2 mg/square centimeter of skin, or 30 mL of sunscreen over the average human body). Baumann instructs patients to estimate their UVB protection by multiplying the SPF by one-third; therefore, the L’Oréal product contains only an SPF of about 5 for the average user.
One caveat about sunscreen…
Most dermatologists recommend stimulating synthesis of adequate levels of vitamin D with ten to fifteen minutes of sunscreen-free sun exposure at least two times per week to the face, arms, hands, or back without sunscreen, and taking vitamin D supplements, particularly in the winter months in colder areas. Vitamin D is important for promoting calcium absorption, and works in concert with a number of other vitamins, minerals, and hormones to promote bone mineralization. Insufficient levels of vitamin D have been associated with rickets in children and osteomalacia in adults. As such, wear sunscreen daily, but sneak in 10-15 minutes of sunscreen-free exposure between 9 AM and 4 PM at least twice a week. More is available about sunscreens in this article from October, 2007.
Two of my favorite sunscreens are:
1. La Roche-Posay Anthelios Fluide Extreme ($45.00, Skincarelab.com), which contains both Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL for extra-stable UVA protection and an SPF of 50+ for ultra UVB protection (50+ is the highest SPF rating in European countries!). Unfortunately, Mexoryl XL is not good for those with oily skin, so beware.
2. Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70 ($18.49 for two, Amazon.com), which contains Helioplex, i.e., a stabilized combination of avobenzone and oxybenzone for excellent UVA protection, and an SPF of 70 for excellent UVB protection. It is also quite a bit cheaper than the La Roche-Posay Anthelios Fluide Extreme product.
As such, don’t forget to wear your sunscreen every day, even during the holiday season (!). Furthermore, consider a product with Mexoryl SX and XL first if you do not have oily skin (it is more stable), or a product with Mexoryl SX and a higher SPF (for added UVB protection). Happy holidays!
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
December 18th, 2007
Posted by
futurederm |
Sunblocks, Worst Products |
6 comments
We all know that Sarah Jessica Parker’s upcoming Sex and the City movie is likely to yield amazing results in the box office, but is one of Parker’s endorsed products, Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew Daily Regenerating Serum ($12.63, Amazon.com) likely to do the same for your skin? With lycopene, magnesium, and vitamin C, the company claims its innovation is in its use of unique time-released “dermatological-nutrients.”
Is lycopene a superior anti-aging ingredient?
Based on current research, no. Lycopene, the caroten that gives tomatoes its red pigment, has been reported by Dr. G. Todorov to be the best antioxidant among carotens, with at least twice the free-radical scavenging ability as ß-carotene. Lycopene also serves as a natural sunscreen, providing a UVB of about 3, and it is speculated that lycopene could improve cell-to-cell junctions, theoretically improving skin’s texture. Unfortunately, lycopene’s benefits seem to end there. A 2002 study by Offord et. al. found that lycopene’s ability to suppress expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (collagen-digesting) mRNA was markedly lower than that of vitamin C or vitamin E. In fact, the study found that lycopene was only able to suppress matrix metalloproteinase mRNA expression when accompanied by vitamin E, as it is found in the Garnier Nutritioniste product. However, the use of lycopene at all is questionable, as a 2005 study by Yeh et. al demonstrated that topical application of lycopene “enhances UVA-induced oxidative stress in [mouse] fibroblast (skin) cells, and…under UVA irradiation, lycopene may produce oxidative products that are responsible for the prooxidant effects.” Although this study was done on the mouse, based on these results and similar from Offord et. al., it does not seem advisable to use lycopene at this time.
Are the company’s claims about magnesium valid?
Yes. According to the Garnier Nutritioniste website, magnesium “energizes and hydrates surface-cells for a deeper radiance.” This claim is valid, as a 2005 study by Proksch et. al. (amongst others) found that magnesium salts increase the rate of barrier function and hydrate the skin.
What is the ascorbyl glucoside? [updated November 28, 2007]
The product’s vitamin C form, ascorbyl glucoside, seems to be where the nutrition fits in, as according to The Annual Review on Nutrition, “a stable ascorbyl glucoside may have nutritional applications.” More will be added on ascorbyl glucoside after more information is made available.
Overall opinions?
Based on the scientific literature available, I personally would not use this product. Although glycerin and dimethicone are hydrating and magnesium is beneficial, the lycopene’s potential to stimulate damaging oxidative by-products concerns me. However, as I have said before, I am still a student, so if anyone can provide refuting information on lycopene or ascorbyl glucoside, I would be glad to hear it, and will promptly revise the article. At this time, however, based on the scientific literature I have found, I personally would not use this product. Overall rating: 2/10.
Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Magnesium PCA, Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi Fruit Water), Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Manganese PCA, Zinc PCA, Sodium PCA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Octyldodecanol, Hexylene Glycol, Carbomer, Ceteth 10, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Disodium EDTA, Laureth 4, Mica, Nylon 12, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polycaprolactone, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Chlorphenesin, Parfume (Fragrance), Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol, Benzyl Salicylate, FIL
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
October 28th, 2007
Posted by
futurederm |
Worst Products |
one comment
La Mer Eye Concentrate is amongst the newest products of the season. Concentrated with hematite, white algae, and the company’s signature Miracle BrothTM, LaMer Eye Concentrate claims to reduce the appearance of dark circles, even skin tone, and soothe and hydrate throughout the day.
Do the product’s ingredients indicate it should reduce the appearance of dark circles?
Based on ingredients alone, most likely, no. La Mer claims that hematite, a mineral form of iron oxide, should attract blood that has pooled below the eyes. In the August 23 Bangkok Independent, Loretta Miraglia of the Max Huber research labs, which develops cosmetics for La Mer, stated that the hematite “is naturally rich in iron. Once we magnetize the colloidal hematite, carefully add it to the Eye Concentrate and apply it with a unique silver-tip applicator, it reduces the dark circles.” However, according to David H. McDaniel, director of the Institute of Anti-Aging Research in Virginia Beach in the October 2007 Allure, “…I’m skepitcal of the claims related to hematite, because the iron in blood is not like the iron dust you might pick up with a magnet.” Further, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, the complete origin of dark circles is not known, but it may be related to vasodilation of the blood vessels, making them appear more visible through the skin, or excess melanin production. This indicates that, even if hematite were effective in attracting pooled blood below the eyes, it would not treat dark circles created by excess melanin production.
What about the effectiveness of the other ingredients?
The Eye Concentrate contains three forms of LaMer’s Cream de la Mer’s Miracle BrothTM: the original, a new encapsulated form, and a concentrated form of the original. The Miracle BrothTM was first developed by Max Huber, a former NASA scientist who had suffered chemical burns and couldn’t find anything to help, so he designed his own treatment, and hence Cream de la Mer was born. The specific ingredients of La Mer’s Miracle BrothTM are patented, and its formulation has not been disclosed; in fact, even the manufacturer states that they are not sure how Creme de la Mer actually works.
La Mer Eye Concentrate’s main ingredient is known to be sea kelp, a large form of white algae that serves as an effective water-binding agent and antioxidant. However, according to Paula Begoun, author of Don’t Go the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, the claims that algae is an emollient and antioxidant are substantiated, but “the claims that algae can stop or eliminate wrinkling, heal skin, or provide other elaborate benefits are completely unsubstantiated.”
According to iVenus.com, other natural ingredients in La Mer creams include magnesium, potassium, calcium, iron, lecithin, Vitamins C, D, E, B12, and extracts from sunflower, alfalfa, wheatgerm, and citrus. Of these thirteen ingredients, four (magnesium, potassium, sunflower, and wheatgerm) have some absorbent qualities that enable them to be hydrating. In combination with calcium, aqueous solutions of magnesium were additionally found in a 1999 study by Denda et al. to improve barrier recovery function; hence, on the basis of these findings, magnesium and calcium in LaMer products may accelerate the healing response in the skin. (Perhaps an explanation for creator Huber’s burn healing?)
Lecithin is a natural moisturizing factor, a phospholipid found in the membranes of plant and animal cells. It too serves as an emollient and water-binding agent. Vitamins C and E serve as network antioxidants, which synergistically enhance the antioxidant power of one another. Vitamin D has no known effects (as of 2005) when applied topically, except as a mild, non-network antioxidant. Alfalfa serves as another mild antioxidant.
So why are La Mer products so expensive?
LaMer was sold to Esteé Lauder Companies in 1994, perhaps helping the product keep its high reputation (and price tag) maintained for so long. Part of the reason for LaMer’s expense is the bio-fermentation process of the ingredients. According to iVenus.com, the bio-fermentation process of LaMer takes three to four months, including “sonic chemistry,” which works by wiring the energy from sound waves into the cream while it ferments. It has been noted by Shimada et. al that ultrasonic (sound) frequencies increase the rate of fermentation, a process in which biological cells produce energy. The fermentation process in Creme de la Mer has not been altered since the product’s inception. However, why the ingredients must be fermented in the first place remains mysterious. For instance, if lactic acid is produced from the fermentation of sea kelp, couldn’t lactic acid simply be added to the starting formulation of sea kelp and the rigorous process be skipped (and the price of the cream lowered)? With LaMer’s mysterious formulation, it is impossible to tell at this time.
Overall opinions?
LaMer Eye Concentrate, like many other LaMer products, contains potent concentrations of antioxidants and emollient factors. While some women swear by it, others give mixed reviews of the formula’s richness, efficacy, and high price tag. I personally am not in favor of the product for the fact that its formulation is not made public; with all of the advances in cosmetic dermatology today, the skin care consumer deserves to be as informed of the formulations as possible. For the high price tag, I would consider a skin care purchase with a known ingredient list that has been proven in double-blind, placebo-based trials to be effective. 4/10.
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
October 10th, 2007
Posted by
futurederm |
Worst Products |
2 comments
