Ah, just when I think I’ve heard it all, I run across MaMa Lotion ($44.50, Cosmeticville.com). A dermatological-grade potent combination of 20% unique alpha hydroxy acids (10% mandelic acid, 10% malic acid), MaMa Lotion has what it takes to become a new regular in my skin care line-up, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, freckles, acne blemishes, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores, melasma, ingrown hairs, and rough skin.
One of the main ingredients in MaMa Lotion, mandelic acid, is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from almonds. According to research published in the journal Tetrahedron, mandelic acid is a potent antioxidant, preventing skin lipid peroxidation when applied topically. A review in Clinics in Dermatology further affirms that mandelic acid is an AHA tat is able to treat signs of photoaging (including skin roughness and fine lines). Interestingly enough, mandelic acid is also used at 0.5% in antimicrobial solutions as an activating solution for 0.1% sodium chlorite.
Malic acid (hydroxybutanedioic acid) is an alpha hydroxy acid that is found naturally in apples. In the Journal of Dermatology, a published study found that a combination of malic acid and glycolic acid increased cell proliferation and functional activation of fibroblasts, indicating that the ingredient is effective in stimulating collagen production. Although it has been reported in the International Journal of Skin Science that malic acid is somewhat less effective than the alpha hydroxy acids glycolic acid and lactic acid, in combination with other AHAs (like the mandelic acid in MaMa Lotion), malic acid has been reported to have great efficacy in treating skin roughness, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. Unlike the other AHAs, malic acid has also been demonstrated to have some level of anti-microbial activity, as reported in The American Journal of Enology and Viticulture.
Skin following 1 month treatment with MaMa Lotion.
MaMa Lotion is a very strong and effective product, with 20% AHAs and a pH of 2.5. For this reason, special instructions are necessary for those using MaMa Lotion; namely, MaMa Lotion should not be used more than twice a week for the first few weeks, and usage can then be increased to every other day or everyday, depending on the skin’s tolerance of the product. A gentle, broad-spectrum sunscreen, like LaRoche Posay, should be used everyday in conjunction with the product, and other products with AHAs, retinol, and the sun should be avoided. Those with darker skin should additionally consult this page for further instructions.
Although MaMa Lotion goes on very thick, it absorbs into the skin within 10-15 minutes, leaving the skin extremely smooth. The treatment can also be used on rough areas like the knees, elbows, and feet (with appropriate sun protection on these areas, of course!) With that said, I love MaMa Lotion. Although the very potent product does need to be used with caution, when used properly and in conjunction with proper sun protection, it really gives skin a fantastic glow! Product rating: 9.5/10. (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3+/3. New technology or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0.5/1; there is no sunscreen in this product, but it should only be used at night anyway, so it is only a 0.5 deduction).
If you would like to try MaMa Lotion, Cosmeticville.com is currently giving away a free sample of MaMa lotion with any purchase! In the comments box at checkout, put - MaMa Lotion Sample. For more information, please visit Cosmeticville.com.
Water, Mandelic Acid, Malic Acid, Algae Extract, Polyacrylamide, Potassium Hydroxide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Ubiquinone, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Fragrance, Squalane, Laureth-7, Tetrasodium EDTA, Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben and Butylparaben.
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June 2nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Offers and Promotions, Pore Size Treatments, Product Reviews, Special Offers, Wrinkle Treatments |
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Freeze and Go Instant Smoother and Brightener ($65.00, Freeze247.com) promises “a 50-90% visible reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles within 10 minutes of a single application.” The product is packaged in a portable container that enables easy transfer of the product, whereever you decide to go.
GABA may temporarily inhibit wrinkles
Although the company claims that “100% of women” in their study experienced the 50-90% reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, the main ingredient, gamma aminobutyric acid, does not always have these types of results. GABA, an inhibitory neurotransmitter, may temporarily inhibit nerves and reduce the appearance of wrinkles when applied topically, but this effect varies from woman to woman, and is not usually anywhere comparable to Botox or other professionally-administered wrinkle reducers.
Black tea
Black tea has been found in this study to prevent glycation-produced cross-linking of collagen in the aorta of rats, i.e., prevents the hardness of collagen that is characteristic with aging. Black tea has also been shown in this study to be protective against UVB-induced photodamage in mice.
Hydrating
Freeze and Go Instant Smoother and Brightener contains a high concentration of silicones, as well as hydrating shea butter, coconut oil, and vitamin E, which should reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles somewhat, for a limited amount of time, as well.
Overall opinions
Freeze and Go Instant Smoother and Brightener is a solid product; for most women, it should make fine lines and wrinkles appear less visible, although results will vary from woman to woman. This is largely due to the differing results women experience from topically applying GABA to the skin. Overall, I like the product, though I recommend trying it through a store or company with a reliable return policy before committing. Definitely a solid product, but no Botox. Overall rating: 8.5/10.
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May 11th, 2008
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Anti-Aging Treatments, Product Reviews, Wrinkle Treatments |
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For all mothers do every day of the year, there’s nothing better than giving Mom some luxury and comfort for Mother’s Day. And, in my personal opinion, nothing says luxury and comfort like thoughtful skin care. 
Here are some really special finds online that fit the bill perfectly:
1. Create a free website for Mom on Your Mom’s Philosophy.com. On Your Mom’s Philosophy.com, you can create a site about your mom and share your favorite stories, pictures, and videos - all for free. Other visitors will rate your page, and if yours is one of the top 20 ranked sites, your page will be featured on Philosophy.com on Mother’s Day as a finalist. From the 20 finalists, online voters will select one to receive the grand prize, a philosophy gift basket valued at $250. As an added bonus, everyone who creates a page will have a chance to win a $1200 shopping spree on Philosophy.com. I truly love this idea!
And, of course, philosophy has excellent Mother’s Day gift sets too. One of my favorites is the philosophy Amazing Grace Deluxe Gift Set ($85.00, Drugstore.com). For $85, the set includes an 8 oz. 3-in-1 shower gel, an 8 oz conditioner, an 8 oz body emulsion, a 4 oz hand cream, and a 2 oz fragrance. Best of all, the set features the peace-inducing Amazing Grace motto: How you climb the mountain is just as important as how you get down the mountain, and so, as it is with life, for which so many of us becomes one big gigantic test followed by one big gigantic lesson. In the end, it all comes down to one word: grace. it’s how you accept winning and losing, good luck and bad luck, the darkness and the light. So true - and so “Mom”.
2. Protect Mom’s skin with Celazome Serum Vitae for day ($54.00, SkinStore.com). Although my favorite skin serum is still Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, Celazome Serum Vitae is making a strong case for itself, with a high concentration of magnesium ascorbyl palmitate (a more stable form of vitamin C than in CE Ferulic) and vitamin E, plus anti-aging retinol, soothing aloe and lavender, and hydrating dimethicone and hyaluronic acid. Dr. Leslie Baumann even recommends it on her blog as a “top 5 spring skin care product.” To save money, sign up at eBates.com for free before you buy, and receive 8% cash back on your purchase, plus $10 bonus if you sign up before May 31, 2008!
I say this product is great for day because it contains vitamins C and E. which have been shown to enhance the effects of sunscreen. However, retinol can make the skin photosensitive, so if you use this product during the day, be sure to use it under a compatible moisturizer with sunscreen.
3. …and Lindi Face Serum for night ($40.00, LindiSkin.net). Available in lavender and citrus scents, Lindi Skin Face Serum contains a very high concentration of astaxanthin extract, a potent antioxidant. It also contains a high concentration of soybean oil, antioxidant vitamin E in two forms, hydrating ceramide 2, collagen-stimulating palmitoyl oligopeptide and ascorbyl palmitate, and soothing aloe. Despite the plethora of ingredients, Lindi Skin products are reportedly very gentle for the skin, as they are developed by a team of scientists for cancer patients undergoing radiation therapy and chemotherapy, who often experience nausea from skin care products due to scent, irritation, and even inflammation or stinging.
4. Give Mom sophisticated luxury with John Varvatos eau de parfum ($67.28, Amazon.com). I recently tried this perfume, and someone gave me the perfect term to describe it: “Mature.” A rich ambery floral with “fruity nuances”, it is definitely a scent for a sophisticated woman. According to the scent’s website, it product exudes “warmth, delicacy, elegance and sensuality.” New for the Spring, it’s one for the sophisticate for sure.
Here’s to great skin for Mom for Mother’s Day! Be sure to share some of your favorite Mother’s Day gift ideas too!
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May 2nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Dry Skin Treatments, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Quick Questions, Special Offers, Spotlight On..., Wrinkle Treatments |
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According to the advertisements, Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula ($12.99, Walgreens.com) will help to reverse signs of past sun damage like fine lines, discolorations, and sun spots, as well as protect against future damage.
The product claims to contain 2x the vitamin C of the usual Garnier Nutritioniste formulas. Garnier Nutritioniste products seem to always use vitamin C in the form of ascorbyl glucoside, which has been found to be more stable than L-ascorbic acid at a wider range of pH and temperatures. While it has been found that ascorbyl glucoside has the collagen-stimulating, antioxidant, skin-lightening effects of L-ascorbic acid, the only downside is that the exact concentration of ascorbyl glucoside in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is not given, whereas it is established in certain L-ascorbic acid formulations like Cellex-C contain 15% L-ascorbic acid.
Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula also contains magnesium. Magnesium has been shown to improve barrier function recovery in the skin of mice, and the company claims that magnesium also “energizes and hydrates” the skin.
The last main ingredient, lycopene, I have mixed feelings about. On the one hand, lycopene, the caroten that gives tomatoes its red pigment, has been reported by Dr. G. Todorov to be the best antioxidant among carotens, with at least twice the free-radical scavenging ability as ß-carotene. Lycopene also serves as a natural sunscreen, providing a UVB of about 3, and it is speculated that lycopene could improve cell-to-cell junctions, theoretically improving skin’s texture. A 2002 study by Offord et. al. further found that lycopene and vitamin E together, as in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, can suppress the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (collagen-digesting) mRNA. Unfortunately, the use of lycopene at all is questionable at this time, as a 2005 study by Yeh et. al demonstrated that topical application of lycopene “enhances UVA-induced oxidative stress in [mouse] fibroblast (skin) cells, and…under UVA irradiation, lycopene may produce oxidative products that are responsible for the prooxidant effects.” Although this study was done on the mouse, based on these results and similar from Offord et. al., it does not seem advisable to use lycopene in skin care products at this time.
According to reviews of Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, the product is light, non-greasy, and smells delightful. Women largely report after a few weeks’ use that their skin feels softer and smoother. However, the eradication of age spots may take a while, as blogger E. Harmon notes that she had not noticed a “huge difference in the tone or brightness” of her skin, although notes that the effect may occur “with continued use over time.” I think it all depends on the amount of ascorbyl glucoside in the product, which hasn’t been reported.
Overall, I think Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is a quality product, though it may not be as effective as products with a higher concentration of vitamin C, like Cellex-C. Still, it should improve skin’s texture, provide sun protection, and may eradicate sun spots over time. I give it a solid 7/10 (high concentration of proven ingredients: 1.5/3. New technology: 1.5/3, for the as-of-yet questionable inclusion of lycopene. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 1/1.)
Ingredients in Garnier Nutritioniste Anti Sun Damage Moisture Lotion SPF 28
Water; Isononyl Isononanote; Glycerin; Cyclohexasiloxane; Propylene Glycol; Ethylhexyl Palmitate; Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate; Butylene Glycol; Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; Dimethicone; Nylon-66; Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer; Glyceryl Stearate; Behenyl Alcohol; Solanium Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract*; Ascorbyl Glucoside**; Tocopheryl Acetate; Actindia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Water; Rosa Canina Fruit Oil; Capryloyl Salicylic Acid; Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate; Caprylyl Glycol; Magnesium PCA***; Manganese PCA***; Mica; Sodium PCA***; Titanium Dioxide; Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethyl Isosorbide; PEG-8 Laurate; Disodium EDTA; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Octyldodecanol; Polycaprolactone; Sodium Citrate; Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate; Sodium Hydroxide; Xanthan Gum; Methylparaben; Propylparaben; Butylparaben; Fragrance; Linalool; Benzyl Salicylate; Limonene; Geraniol; Citral; *Lycopene; **Vitamin C; ***Magnesium
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April 30th, 2008
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Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Sunblocks, Wrinkle Treatments, sunscreen |
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Image source: Milwent.com
Crow’s feet are amongst the most complained about wrinkles on a patient’s face. And for good reason: “Crow’s-feet are usually the earliest wrinkles to appear on a woman’s face,” says dermatologist Debra Price, M.D., clinical assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Miami School of Medicine and a dermatologist in South Miami. So what to do about crow’s feet?
Take an aggressive approach at home.
To quote Meg Ryan in You’ve Got Mail, “Fight, fight, fight!” Start each day off with a multivitamin that contains vitamin C and linoleic acid, which has been recently reported in a study amongst 4000 women to reduce wrinkles. Next, apply an antioxidant serum and sunscreen or moisturizer with sunscreen, concentrating on the area around your eyes. Be careful that the formulations are tolerated well around the delicate eye area. My well-touted favorites are Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($107.00, Amazon.com) and NIA 24 Physical Sunscreen SPF 30 ($42.95, Amazon.com), but I also love the new Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85 ($8.99, Drugstore.com) for ultima supremo sun protection (the most photostable out there, according to some reports). During the day, Dr. Perricone also recommends that you eat a diet rich in fruits and vegetables (for antioxidant activity), salmon (for omega-3s), healthy fats (think almonds and olive oil), and full of water and green or white tea to keep skin glowing. After all, nutrition and skin care together have better results than skin care alone.
At night, use a retinoid cream, followed by a moisturizer with DMAE, niacinamide, or antioxidants, provided your skin can tolerate it. The retinoid treatment is easier to choose: there is 0.5% retinol in Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 ($32.95, Amazon.com), 0.6% retinol in Green Cream Level 6 ($42.95, Amazon.com) 0.9% retinol in Green Cream Level 9 ($49.95, Amazon.com), and 1.0% retinol in Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 ($52.00, Amazon.com). You may want to start with a lesser concentration of retinol, applied every 2-3 nights, and gradually work up to nightly use.
As for a nightly moisturizer, Dr. Nicholas Perricone recommends using DMAE, which has been found and reported in two independent studies in The Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology and Skin Research and Dermatology to significantly firm skin in the undereye area. A product with a high concentration of DMAE is NV Perricone Vitamin C Ester Amine Face Lift ($95.00, Sephora.com), and another designed for around the eyes with slightly less DMAE is NV Perricone Advanced Eye Area Therapy ($95.00, Sephora.com). (P.S.: Free shipping is also available for a limited time on orders of $50 or more from Sephora with the code SHIPPING50 at checkout!)
If DMAE is too harsh for your skin, niacinamide and antioxidants have also been found to have beneficial effects against wrinkles, in various studies. My favorite moisturizer with niacinamide is Olay Regenerist, while my favorite antioxidant moisturizer is RevaléSkin Night Cream.
Once a week, in lieu of your usual nightly routine, use a glycolic acid treatment, provided again that your skin can handle it. (Consult your dermatologist if you are unsure.) Two of my favorite glycolic acid peels are MD Skincare: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel ($75.00 for a thirty-day supply, Sephora.com) and Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads ($45.00, Amazon.com). Click here for a full review of the Dr. Dennis Gross peel; click here for a review of the Peter Thomas Roth Un-Wrinkle Peel Pads.
Then go see your dermatologist to look even better.
In the Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, amongst many other sources, Botox injections have been found to make a dramatic difference in wrinkles. According to Dr. Jeffrey Benabio, M.D., in this month’s Oprah magazine, Botox injections partially paralyze the orbicularis orbis muscle to prevent it from contracting, which causes further wrinkling (and shows off the wrinkles you already have).
Benabio also recommends injectable fillers, like Restylane, to fill up the lines. Injections generally last 6-12 months, and are usually redone every 6 months. The cost is generally upwards of $500 per injection, but this varies by practitioner.
Last but not least, Benabio recommends dermatologist-strength chemical peels and lasers to stimulate collagen production, keeping the skin firm and crow’s feet production down in the future.
Yes, you can do it!
Always keep in mind that dermatology today is a lot more powerful than in years past. You can improve and prevent wrinkles, but, like everything else, it takes time, patience, knowledge, funds, and dedication.
Let me know what works for you! I love hearing feedback!
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April 23rd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Eye Creams, Firming Treatments, General Cosmetic Dermatology, How to Get Rid of..., Spotlight On..., Wrinkle Treatments |
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As an aspiring dermatologist, I was often curious about the differences between all of the different types of botulism toxins. As it turns out, according to Dr. Cheryl Burgess’ Cosmetic Dermatology, there are four brands and two types currently utilized by physicians: Botox Medical (Allergan), Botox Cosmetic (Allergan), Dysport (Speywood Pharmaceuticals), and Myobloc (Elan Pharmaceuticals). The differences, which are reported from Cosmetic Dermatology, are outlined below.
Botox Medical
Botox Medical is the form of botulism toxin which has been used for the longest amount of time, having been approved by the FDA in 1989. Like Botox Cosmetic and Dysport, it is botulism toxin type A, which is the most potent of all eight serologically distinct botulism toxins. It is currently approved in over 70 countries, and is used for non-cosmetic conditions such as starbismus, blepharospasm, hyperhidrosis, poststroke spasticity, back spasm, and headache.
Botox Cosmetic
Botox Cosmetic was approved by the U.S. FDA in April 2002 for treatment of moderate to severe glabellar lines in patients 65 years of age or younger. Like Botox Medical and Dysport, it is potent botulism toxin type A. It is commonly used between the eyebrows, on crow’s feet, horizontal forehead lines, neck lines, melolabial folds, and other hyperkinetic facial lines.
Dysport
Dysport is a third form of botulism toxin type A, but unlike Botox Medical and Botox Cosmetic, is not manufactured by Allergan. Like Botox Medical, Dysport is not currently used for cosmetic purposes anywhere in the world. (Besides, this study found Botox Cosmetic was more effective in treating glabellar lines, anyway.) Dysport has been used in the United Kingdom for medical purposes since the early 1990’s and has been used for blepharospasm, hemifacial spasm, and spasmodic torticollis.
Myobloc
Myobloc is distinct from the other three botulism toxins in that it is type B. This is promising, as continued use of one type of botulism toxin leads to the body’s eventual production of neutralizing and nonneutralizing antibodies; however, antibodies to one serotype (say from continued exposure to type A Botox Cosmetic) do not cross-neutralize another serotype (say type B Myobloc). Of course, according to Dr. Cheryl Burgess’ Cosmetic Dermatology, this type of resistance has occurred only in 3-5% of patients. Still, patients in the U.S. can consent to off-label use of Myobloc for cosmetic purposes because Myobloc is FDA approved for the treatment of cervical dystonia, and the safety and efficacy of Myobloc for cosmetic purposes has been demonstrated in several small studies.
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March 17th, 2008
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Anti-Aging Treatments, How to Get Rid of..., Wrinkle Treatments |
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