I think everyone has a type of beauty product they must try.  One of my friends is obsessed with Essie nail polish, while another needs every new Lancôme Juicy Tube.  Myself, I’m preoccupied with peels – nothing makes my skin look younger and more luminous faster!  I’ve been hooked on Origins Brighter By Nature High Potency Peel for almost a year now, but I still make it a choice to try any new products I may come across.  Which brings me to the Philosophy The Microdelivery Triple-Acid Brightening Peel ($68.00, Amazon.com).

Why I Won’t Be Making It A Staple

The problem with Philosophy The Microdelivery Triple-Acid Brightening Peel isn’t that it doesn’t work.  It definitely works – use one of the moisture-soaked treatment pads tonight, and you’ll wake up with plumper, clearer, more luminous skin tomorrow.  The problem lies in why it works – a very high concentration of SD alcohol 40.

What’s Wrong with SD Alcohol 40?

SD Alcohol 40 is ethyl alcohol, AKA drinking alcohol.  Unfortunately, topical application of SD alcohol 40 can be drying or irritating to the skin.  It actually plumps up the skin because it is promoting inflammation of the individual skin cells – this in turn makes the skin look younger and the pores smaller (as they are wedged between the swollen skin cells) for a day or so.  However, in the long run, it’s not the best idea to keep inflaming your skin with products that contain a high concentration of SD alcohol 40.  What’s more, SD alcohol 40 depletes skin’s levels of vitamin A, so never use this product in conjunction with retinoids.

Still, I Don’t Count It Out Completely for Those with Non-Sensitive Skin Types

The reason Philosophy The Microdelivery Triple-Acid Brightening Peel is “Microdelivery” at all is due to the SD alcohol 40.  Herein lies the problem:  Although it is drying and inflammatory to the skin, SD alcohol 40 is one of the cheapest ways to effectively deliver skin care ingredients deep into the skin.  Technically, SD alcohol 40 increases the penetration of other ingredients in a dose-dependent manner, meaning the more SD alcohol, the further into the skin the other ingredients get.  A study even showed that peak penetration occurs when a solution is as much as 90% ethyl alcohol, demonstrating just how effective SD alcohol 40 can be.

Therefore I must say that the benefits versus the detriments of SD alcohol 40 in this product must be weighed for each individual.  If you have sensitive skin, rosacea, psoriasis, or excessive dryness, stay far away.  On the other hand, if your skin drinks in mild glycolic acid solutions with an unquenchable thirst and only begs for more, then Philosophy The Microdelivery Triple-Acid Brightening Peel might not be such a bad idea, especially when you consider the other benefits:

Niacinamide + Mandelic Acid = Love It

Many great couples have one harsh, brazen partner (like Miss Piggy or mandelic acid) and one lighter, more soothing one (Kermit or niacinamide).

For a skin care buff, seeing niacinamide and mandelic acid together for the first time is like having a friend named Miss Piggy and another named Kermit, holding a big party, and watching the magic unfold.  (At least for one of the parties).

They must be pretty ingenious to have dreamt this one up at Philosophy:  Mandelic acid is a potent, fairly harsh antioxidant that fights superficial fine lines, wrinkles, and skin laxity, according to a review in Clinics in Dermatology.  On the other hand, niacinamide is a mild anti-ager that best combats skin dryness ( International Journal of Dermatology).  When you throw in the fact that both fight hyperpigmentation (Clinics in Dermatology, British Journal of Dermatology), you have every major sign of aging covered by these two – that is, fine lines/wrinkles, dullness, sagging, dryness, hyperpigmentation, and roughness.   

Bottom Line

Philosophy The Microdelivery Triple-Acid Brightening Peel is a genius product for those who do not have sensitive skin, rosacea, psoriasis, or related skin conditions.  If your skin has tolerated glycolic acid and other AHA-based peels in the past, I highly recommend Philosophy The Microdelivery Triple-Acid Brightening Peel!  Product Rating: 9/10.  (High or optimized concentration of key ingredients: 3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology:  3/3.  Value for the money:  2/3.  Sunscreen:  N/A).

Recently, I became a fan of hot yoga.  Actually, to be more accurate, I recently became addicted to hot yoga.  The stretching, the sweating, the fact that you’re burning an estimated 630 calories an hour - it all sums up to a painful, sweaty experience that somehow ends up in a proud state of bliss.

That having been said, I started to research what yoga does for the skin.  Here’s the good, the bad, and the ugly:

1.)  Better Circulation = good

Yoga increases the circulation throughout the body, as proven in a 1993 study in which three yoga instructors were found to have an increase in mean body skin temperature after 3 months of practice (Physiological Changes, 1993).  This results in increased oxygen delivery to the skin, resulting in a “glow” similar to that of pregnant women.  The increased oxygen delivery also ensures that the skin’s keratinocytes and melanocytes are functioning more optimally than in a state of hypoxia (i.e., decreased oxygenation).

2.)  May alleviate acne in some individuals = good.

It has also been suggested by some that yoga may alleviate acne in some individuals (Alternative and Complementary Therapies, 1996; Indian Journal of Dermatology, 1997).  Acne is now known to be caused by a bacterium, P. acnes.  However, yoga can help combat bacteria by improving cellular function (and hence defense), reduce inflammation-inducing cortisol release from the adrenal glands, and increase levels of the “relaxing” brain neurotransmitter GABA (Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine, 2007).  Altogether, these functions may cause the regular practice of yoga to reduce levels of acne over time.

3.)  Hot yoga may make rosacea symptoms worse in some individuals = bad.

According to several case studies, including one from the July 2010 Journal of Family Practice, yoga may cause rosacea to become worse in some individuals.  A disease of the skin characterized by persistent redness, flushing, papules, pustules, telangiectasias, irritation, or some combination therein, rosacea can be made worse by prolonged exposure to heat, as in bikram yoga.

While the rosacea exacerbation related to hot yoga practice is treatable with oral antibiotics (minocycline) and topical creams (sodium sulfacetamide/sulfur 10%/5% wash, azelaic acid 20%, and metronidazole 1% gel), it is advisable that patients with moderate to severe symptoms of rosacea avoid hot yoga altogether (Journal of Family Practice, 2010).  Given the fact that 78% of patients with rosacea reported in a recent study to have better control of symptoms when avoiding external heat, spicy food, and UV light, this comes as no surprise, although it is probably something of a disappointment to those yogis suffering with rosacea.  

4.)  May make acne worse if you wear makeup and do not wash your face promptly afterwards = bad.

Like any other form of exercise, yoga causes the release of sweat and sebum, which in combination can clog the pores and create a bacteria-friendly environment.  This is made even worse whenever you wear makeup to work out, as the evaporation of sweat is blocked altogether, leading directly to breakouts.

My best advice is to use a cleanser both before and after you workout, which permits proper evaporation of sweat from the skin and prevents sweat from permeating on the skin for too long.  I like Sebamed Liquid Face and Body Wash (official website; $28.58, Amazon.com), which I find to be gentle enough to use before and after a workout.  It is also mildly hydrating, so I don’t find it necessary to apply a moisturizer afterwards, leaving my skin more time to breathe.

Bottom Line

Research shows that yoga is beneficial for your skin, so long as you wash your face before and after each workout and do not have rosacea.  I’ll also say, on a more personal note, yoga helps me stay centered, more focused, and even a bit more relaxed throughout the day.  I definitely am a fan!

What’s your take on exercise and your skin?  Let me know on Facebook!

Between worrying about whether my Tupperware container can be microwaved or my plastic water bottle contains BPA, it’s a miracle I have any time to eat at all.  (!)  With all of this concern about containers, I recently turned my attention to skin care containers, wondering if they could potentially be harmful as well.  While there are no likely estrogenic or carcinogenic effects from any of the containers I reviewed (whew!), there were a few other concerns I had, such as:

1.) You might have fecal matter bacteria in your makeup.

If a cream is available in a jar or a tube, select the tube.

If you could apply a skin care cream that 50 people had stuck their finger in, or a fresh one, which would you pick?  That’s essentially the question you’re asking yourself when considering a jar versus a tube.  Granted, all 50 people in this metaphor are you, but you get the general idea.  With each application, you transfer bacteria from your finger into the bacterial breeding ground that is your moisturizer.   According to dermatologist Dr. Jeannine Downie, M.D., “You can find staphylococcus, you can find micrococcus…and if you’re very unlucky…E. coli, which is obviously from fecal matter.”  (source)

Add in the fact that light and air also hit the top surface of your cream every time you open the jar, breaking down unstable antioxidants, and you’ve got me seriously wondering why any moisturizer comes in a jar.

2.)  Tubes still expose your skin care cream to air, breaking down its potency.

Antioxidants such as retinol and vitamin C break down quickly upon exposure to light and air.  The problem is that seemingly air-tight tubes will draw in air during the push-out and suck-back between the inside and outside of the package. The only alternative?  Airless pump bottles, which pumps up from the bottom by a plunger, so no air is trapped inside a product.

3.)  Clear bottles offer little protection for antioxidants.

Back when I was younger and had more time on my hands, I used to go to ULTA and Sephora and marvel at how many of their vitamin C creams had partially oxidized and turned yellow or brown in their packages.  It was amazing to me – how much, if any, more could it cost to package a product in an opaque container?  At any rate, given that many antioxidants break down upon direct light exposure, it is best to wrap your clear containers in aluminum foil.

4.)  Many products break down after one month of opening.

It’s always tempting in our hyperconsumer culture to buy in bulk.  I myself could save a few hundred dollars each year if I were to buy the bulk size of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic instead of the regular, but I refuse to do it.  Why?  Again, antioxidant stability:  Every time I open the bottle, I am losing a small amount of product potency.

As a general rule of thumb, products containing retinoids break down within a month of opening.  I tend to apply this rule to all of my antioxidant-containing products, not just retinoids.

5.)   Lip products are breeding grounds for bacteria.

Just like moisturizer jars, lip glosses will tend to breed many types of bacteria therein.  Even if you never share makeup, it is good policy to wipe your lipstick or gloss off with a tissue before and after each application.  After all, if the average woman eats 7 pounds of lipstick in her lifetime, well, you can only imagine how much bacteria is included with each application.  Ew.  So, keep the bacteria minimal by keeping your packages clean.

I’ve been wearing false eyelashes daily for about six months now.  In the beginning, my sweet-but-smart boyfriend would make remarks like, “Honey, is there something white on your eyelashes?”  And sure enough, the traditional adhesive would have dried white, drawing unwanted attention to the bases of my falsies.  Luckily, the geniuses at Duo created Duo Eyelash Adhesive in Black ($4.38, Amazon.com), which dries a blendable dark gray/soft black.  As with most adhesives, a little goes a long way, so be careful not to use too much, lest the bases of your eyelashes look a bit too thick.

2.  Apply them the right way.

Although I was initially applying them the wrong way, a kind salesperson at Sephora taught me the right method:

• Start by laying a hand mirror on a flat surface directly under your chin.
• Apply a very thin strip of Duo Eyelash Adhesive in Black to your thumbnail.
• Using a fine-tip set of tweezers, gently dip the base of the false eyelashes into the adhesive.
• Close your eyes as much as you can while gazing into the mirror.
• Very carefully apply the lashes as close as you can to your natural lashline.

Top photo source:  Eyelash Extensions, originally uploaded by shavasana eyelash extensions.

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1.)  Clinique Superbalm ($13.00, Amazon.com)

Besides I love it, I swear by it, I can’t live without it, there’s not much else to say about Clinique Superbalm.  Well, I guess until you get into the superb ingredients list, which includes ultra-hydrating linoleic acid, soothing aloe, antioxidant powerhouses vitamins C and E, and even calming lavender extract.  My lips used to get chapped regularly until I started putting this on my lips every night, and then it stopped.  What’s more, I secretly take a dallop of Clinique Superbalm on the tip of my finger and rub it around my nose whenever I have a cold and the skin has become dry and cracked.  It heals it within 2 days, no kidding.  (I guess this also is no longer a secret.  Oh well.)

Probably the only caveat about this product is that it contains petrolatum, which some of my more green movement-savvy readers do not wish to use because it is a non-renewable ingredient.

Ingredients in Clinique Superbalm:  Petrolatum, polybutene, polydecene, bis-diglyceryl polyaclydipate-2, octyldodecanol, microcrystalline wax (cera microcirstallina), tocopheryl acetate, polyglyceryl-2 triissostearate, aloe barbadensis extract, cholersterol/potassium sulfate, cholesterol, chordeum vulgare (barley) extract, triticum vulgare (wheat) germ extract, squalane, linoleic acid, retinyl palmitate, sclareolide, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, lavendula angustifolia (lavender), stearyl glycyrrhetinate, betula alba (birch) extract, citrus grandis (grapefruit california), mentha viridis (spearmint), butylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, red 7 lake (ci 15850), yellow 5 (lake (ci 19140) [iln21532]

2.)  Clinique 7-Day Scrub.

It may sound counterintuitive to use an exfoliating product in the winter, but there’s almost nothing your skin needs more.  According to dermatologist Dr. David E. Bank, author of Beautiful Skin, “[Winter] air seeks moisture, pulling it out from your skin.  As a result, you get flaky, scaly skin and a pale, dull complexion.”  Clinique 7-Day Scrub contains very small polyethylene beads that gently exfoliate the skin without the irritation associated with some alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) in other scrubs.  I’m a huge fan!

Ingredients in Clinique 7 -Day Scrub:  water, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, butylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, coconut oil, carylic/capric triglyceride, polyethylene, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth 20, sorbitol, hexyldecyl stearate, bisabolol, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, oleth-10 phosphate, caprylyl glycol, 1-2 hexanediol, stearyl alcohol, tea-carbomer, disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, chlorphenesin

3.)  Kerastase Nutritive Masquintense ($40.00, Amazon.com)

In the harsh winter climate, skin isn’t the only victim:  the hair also becomes more dry and brittle, and far less shiny and lustrous.  Fortunately, there is Kerastase Nutritive Masquintense, a conditioning treatment that is a mix of hydrating alcohols, silicones, oils, and hydrolyzed wheat protein.  True story:  I actually use mine from my shoulders down when I get on the treadmill, then tie my hair into a knot.  When I shower afterwards, my hair gets the effects of having a 30-minute-plus deep conditioning treatment – and it forces me to stay on the treadmill for a full session too!  :-)  It leaves my hair feeling much softer and more moisturized, which is a blessing in the winter months.

4.)  Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair ($82.99, Amazon.com)

If Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair was a man, it would be my one true love:  No matter how far away from it I stray, I always come running back.  And true to form, it’s always there for me and never lets me down.  The reason?  Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair is extremely hydrating, soothing, and contains fair amounts of antioxidants and even a fair amount of sunscreen as a non-quantified bonus (in the form of octyl methoxycinnamate).  For you science buffs out there, the hydrating ingredients include glycoprotein/polysaccharides (found naturally in the stabilizing intracellular matrix of the skin), dimethicone, pantethine (also called panthothenic acid or vitamin B5), sodium hyaluronate (an excellent natural moisturizing factor), lecithin, and squalane. The soothing ingredients include chamomile, which is disguised on the ingredients list in its proper name, matricaria (anthemis nobilis); bisabolol (derived from chamomile), and allantoin (an anti-irritant derived from uric acid). Antioxidants include vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) and retinyl palmitate (a derivative of vitamin A which must be converted to retinaldehyde and then all-trans retinoic acid within the skin in order to be effective. However, when present in sufficiently high concentrations, retinyl palmitate displays anti-aging and antioxidant benefits similar to that of retinol.)  And while I do not think of Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair primarily as an anti-aging treatment, the ingredients list lends me to believe that it may stave off signs of aging somewhat as well.   A definite must-buy.

5.)  Olay Quench ($17.29 for two bottles, Amazon.com)

Whenever I write a “best” list of products, whether it be for value or quality, Olay Quench always seems to make the cut.  The reason?  Not only is it extremely hydrating, but it also contains (what I estimate to be) a whopping 4% niacinamide, or vitamin B3.  In case you’re not familiar, niacinamide is a miracle ingredient, proven to do everything from stimulating collagen production and increasing elasticity to reducing fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and yellowing, according to a review in Dermatologic Surgery (amongst numerous other sources in dermatology).  Its effects are slow-acting but cumulative, and within 4-6 weeks of daily use, you will notice a difference.  Bonus points for hydration if you apply Olay Quench to slightly moistened skin fresh out of the shower!

6.)  Elizabeth Arden 8-Hour Cream ($17.00, Amazon.com)

Does your skin hang low, does it wobble to and fro?  Can you tie it in a knot, can you tie it in a bow?  Well, now I’m just getting a bit silly.  (See reference here.)  But truth be told, Elizabeth Arden 8-Hour Cream is designed for the driest of poorly conditioned skins, with a whopping 56.8% of the occlusive (water-binding) agent petrolatum.  Other hydrating ingredients include lanolin, vitamin E, mineral oil, castor oil, and corn oil.  Apply it to your dry, cracked feet under a pair of 100% cotton socks, or all over after a shower to still-moistened skin, and your skin will have significantly more moisture.  I promise.  My only reservation for using Elizabeth Arden 8-Hour Cream as a hand cream is that it does not contain sunscreen.  Yet if you are going to be indoors in the harsh winter months anyway, it is amongst the best treatments on the market for dry skin today – it truly is incredible for turning dry skin around.

7.)  Clinique Deep Comfort Body Wash ($21.00, Amazon.com)

I know the economy’s down, so I shouldn’t be recommending a product that doesn’t exactly deliver the biggest bang for your buck.  Yet hear me out:  Do you remember going out in the snow, coming in and having your mom hand you a cup of steaming hot chocolate?  Or even now, having a long day at work, and then drawing a warm bubble bath and soaking for hours?  Clinique Deep Comfort Body Wash is an indulgence like that:  a creamy, luxurious body wash that soothes and yes – even comforts – you from the outside in.  I say it doesn’t deliver as dramatic of results as the other ten products on the page because, quite frankly, it doesn’t.  Shea butter, glycerin, vitamin E and aloe are all hydrating, but in the form of a body wash, they simply don’t deliver the same results.  Still, if you’ve still got some holiday cash to spare, Clinique Deep Comfort Body Wash is one indulgence that just feels so good.   (And, to be fair, it doesn’t dry the skin like sulfate-based body washes or most soaps).

Ingredients in Clinique Deep Comfort Body Wash:  Purified water, butylene glycol, octyldodecyl myristate, polydecene, glycerin, tricaprylin, isocetyl stearate, behenyl alcohol, ptfe, peg-100 stearate, hydrogenated lecithin, aloe barbadensis gel, shea butter (butyrospermum parkii), tocopheryl acetate, sodium hyaluronate, dimethicone, glyceryl stearate, methyldihydrojasmonate, acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, linalool, coriander (coriandrum sativum), petrolatum, xanathan gum, tea-citrate, disodium edta, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, yellow #5 and yellow #6.

8.)  Jergens Natural Glow Self-Tanning Lotion ($6.00, Amazon.com)

I’ll be completely honest with you:  I’m pale and I love it.  Yet I also understand that a tan is believed to be attractive by most women and some men (I’m talking to you, George Hamilton).

With that said, I’ve patch-tested Jergens Natural Glow Self-Tanning Lotion, and for the winter months, it’s a go.  It’s a gradually-building formula with a fairly high concentration of dihydroxyacetone, the active ingredient found in most self-tanning lotions, tied in with a slew of other mildly hydrating ingredients like glycerin and octyldodecyl stearate.   I like the fact that you can control your level of tan according to the frequency of your applications.   My only warning is that it does not smell very pleasant, to say the least.  My recommendation is to apply it an hour before you take a shower to let the color develop but to eliminate the scent entirely before you go out!

9.)  Yves St Laurent Touche de Eclat Concealer ($40.00, Amazon.com)

Since around the year 2000, the internet isn’t the only major revolution:  Concealers and foundations have also been evolving, with more line-filling silicones, less ingredients that look like spackle upon drying, and a new array of light-reflecting particles. Of the new generation, Yves St Laurent Touche de Eclat is the best I’ve found, with a thick formula that blends well, glides on the skin like a cream, and feels luxurious on the skin.  Best of all, it has tiny light reflective particles that make you look flawless.  It’s perfect for the winter months when it seems new cracks are present on everyone’s skin – this is your best bet for concealing each and every one of ‘em!

10.)  Eucerin Daily Body Wash with Cleansing Oil ($18.69, Amazon.com)

What I love about Eucerin Daily Body Wash with Cleansing Oil most is that soybean oil is the main ingredient.  Soy is one of those amazing ingredients that we simply don’t hear enough about.  First of all, soy contains many nutrients that are beneficial for the skin, including essential fatty acids, isoflavones, lecithins, mono- and polyunsaturated fatty acids, saponins, phytosterols, phytic acid, vitamins and minerals.  Second, soy contains the potent isoflavone genistein, which has been shown in independent research studies to exhibit both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro, which together increase the firmness, elasticity, and suppleness of skin.  Lastly, it has been reported in this 2000 study in the journal Dermatology that human trials demonstrated lightening of hyperpigmentation after use of soybean extract for two weeks.

Yet why I love Eucerin Daily Body Wash with Cleansing Oil is that it is soothing, non-drying, and hydrating to the skin.  It’s a great treatment for many patients with eczema.  The only problem for some is the smell, which isn’t too bad, but it’s not exactly Bath and Body Works either.  I recommend giving it a try at a location with a great return policy, like Rite Aid.

Ingredients:  Glycine Soja (Soybean Oil), MIPA-Laureth Sulfate, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Laureth-4, Cocamide DEA, Poloxamer 101, Laureth-9, Lanolin Alcohol, Water, Citric Acid, Diammonium Citrate, Propyl Gallate, BHT.

11.)  Dr. Brandt Microdermabrasion Body Scrub ($35.00, Amazon.com)

Winter may be a harsh for the skin, but the forced skin cover-up also makes it a prime time for eradicating farmer’s tans and patchy dry skin.  Enter Dr. Brandt Microdermabrasion Body Scrub, with not one but two alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic acid and lactic acid), plus exfoliating crystals.  After just one use, skin feels smoother; after daily use for 6-8 weeks, your skin looks significantly younger, softer, and smoother.  It’s truly transformative, and I highly recommend it.  Bonus points if you apply any of the body lotions listed above to slightly moistened skin after your shower!

Bottom Line

Winter can be naturally harsh for the skin, there’s no doubt about that.  Thankfully, however, there are an array of very hydrating, soothing, exfoliating and concealing products to help you not only make it through these difficult months, but actually look better come springtime.

What are your favorite winter products?  Tell me all about it in Comments below!

Thanks to requests from several readers, the FutureDerm daily question is back!

Here is today’s question:

Dear Nicki,

Does a tinted moisturizer provide more SPF than a non-tinted moisturizer?

Sincerely,
Sandra

Dear Sandra,

Honestly, yes, but the amount of sun protection gained is trivial.  The reason for the increase is that darker pigments will always absorb light somewhat.  This is why, for instance, those of African descent may have a natural SPF of up to 15 in their skin (The Journal of Steroid Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, 2007).   The higher melanin (pigment) production within darker skin merits a higher natural amount of UV absorption.

Still, the amount of sun protection gained with a tinted moisturizer is minimal.  In the average nickel-sized application of moisturizer, most women are getting only about 60-80% the sun protection listed on the bottle. This is determined by the fact that most dermatologists recommend applying 1/4-1/3 a teaspoon of sunscreen (1.23-1.62 mL) to the face, but most foundation applications are approximately 1 mL. (For instance, there are an estimated 30 uses in a 30 mL bottle of foundation.)

So even if a full portion of a tinted moisturizer provided an SPF of 15 more than a non-tinted one (which it does not), you would only achieve an SPF of 9-11 from it anyway.  What’s more, the likely increase is more like an SPF of 1-2, which means you’re getting less than 1% more sun protection.

Hope this helps,
Nicki

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Photo source:  e.l.f. Studio Face Swatches, originally uploaded by Mad Tofu.

About the author:  Lauren Krowl graduated from the University of Colorado where she studied Integrative Physiology. She has worked on a variety of research projects including the Human Behavior Project at CU and clinical trials at Coram Specialty Infusion. She is currently a second-year medical student aspiring to specialize in dermatology. Lauren enjoys hiking, snowboarding, playing tennis, and motivating people to embrace a healthy lifestyle by being active and choosing nutrient-dense foods. 

Mom was right, again. Remember how she told you that if you don’t get your sleep you’re going to get raccoon eyes and age faster than any US president? Maybe she was exaggerating a bit, however, researchers at the Centre for Genomic Regulation (CRG) have discovered a link between sleep and the regenerative capacity of skin stem cells. More specifically, the Epithelial Homeostasis and Cancer group at CRG found that the internal biological clock, also known as the circadian rhythm, regulates the activities of the skin stem cells. In this synopsis of the study, researchers maintain that the internal biological clock is imperative in dictating skin stem cells to protect themselves when sunlight peaks during the day and divide to renew damaged cells during the night. This system allows for the body to keep DNA damage to a minimum and regenerative capacities to a maximum.

If there’s one word that’s on everyone’s lips at the start of a new year, it’s “detox.”  From our diets to our closets, it seems people everywhere can’t get enough of a fresh start.  So it’s no wonder that Boscia just released their new Boscia Detoxifying Black Cleanser ($28.00).  It’s definitely a potent one, with what I estimate to be approximately 1% glycolic acid and charcoal extract.  Here’s why I recommend it primarily for oily and acne-prone skin:

Charcoal

For hundreds of years, charcoal has been used in holistic medicine as a deodorant.  This is due to charcoal’s high oxygen content and absorptive properties:  When charcoal comes into contact with decomposing matter, it releases oxygen and absorbs malodorous gases within the air.   In dermatology, topically applied charcoal is known to draw out impurities from the skin.  Limited research in the journal Dermatology also suggests that charcoal may be useful in the treatment of certain skin diseases, including porphyria.  The charcoal powder in Boscia Detoxifying Black Cleanser gives the formulation its characteristic “black” hue, as well as in absorbing excess oil.  Unfortunately, charcoal can also be drying to normal-to-dry skin types.

Glycolic acid

Glycolic acid works by advancing desquamation and exfoliation of the top layer of the skin. As a result, glycolic acid quickens the rate of cell turnover, decreases small wrinkles and increase fibroblast proliferation of collagen. It does not specifically inhibit melanin production, but many dermatologists report the appearance of sunspots is improved with continual use.  In the concentration it is found in Boscia Detoxifying Black Cleanser, glycolic acid is less likely to be irritating, and more likely to appear to cleanse the pores than reduce fine lines and wrinkles over time.

How to Use

For best results with any cleanser, rub the cleanser into the skin for a full minute.  With Boscia Detoxifying Black Cleanser, this will enable the charcoal to absorb oil within the skin more effectively, as well as to allow glycolic acid some time to work before rinsing with water.

Bottom Line

I love Boscia Detoxifying Black Cleanser, but primarily for oily and acne-prone skin.  For best results, use for a full minute before rinsing!

Product Rating:  9/9

• High or optimized concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3
• Unique formulation or new technology:  3/3
• Value:  3/3
• Sunscreen:  N/A

Ingredients in Boscia Detoxifying Black Cleanser

Glycereth-26, Glycerin, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Leaf Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Cynara Scolymus (Artichoke) Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Alpha Glucosyl Hesperidin, Glycolic Acid, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Ceteth-25, Oleth-10, Butylene Glycol, Citrus Paradisi Seed Extract, Xanthan Gum, Water, Charcoal Powder, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil.

Happy 2012!  To kick off this year, I thought I’d start out with one of the season’s hottest launches, Fresh Sugar Advanced Therapy Lip Balm ($25.00).  The balm is one of the most advanced of its kind, with a whopping eight different kinds of hydrating oils.  Leading the pack is jojoba oil, which Native Americans have used to protect skin against the elements for thousands of years.  Jojoba oil forms a lipid layer on the skin that is partially absorbed by the skin, granting both protective and softening effects (Gale Encyclopedia of Alternative Medicine).

Fresh Sugar Advanced Therapy Lip Balm also contains a slew of effective antioxidants, including olive oil, grape seed oil, vitamin C, and vitamin E.  Although I usually recommend using only lip products that contain a documented form of sunscreen, it has been proposed in the journal Toxicology that regular use of products containing olive oil, vitamin C, and vitamin E may protect against UV-induced skin damage, making Fresh Sugar Advanced Therapy Lip Balm an exception to the rule.

What I really love about Fresh Sugar Advanced Therapy Lip Balm is that it works.  In the cold, dry winter months, full lips become more of a liability than an asset as they expose a greater surface area to the elements, resulting in unsightly cracks and painful splitting.  Fresh Sugar Advanced Therapy Lip Balm forms a healing barrier over the lips, which soothes existing damage and also protects against future dehydration.  The result?  Beautiful, well-protected lips.  I refuse to leave home without it this winter!
Product Rating:  10/10

• High or optimized concentration of well-proven ingredients: 3/3
• Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3
• Value:  3/3
• Sunscreen:  1/1

Ingredients

Cera Alba (Beeswax), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Decyl Esters, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Parfum (Fragrance), Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract, Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, PEG-6 Isostearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Sucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate, Trihydroxystearin, Hesperetin Laurate, Vanillin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hexylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Limonene, Benzyl Alcohol, Linalool, Citral, BHT, Phenoxyethanol.

In lieu of a few challenges and other commitments recently, I’ve decided to take a breather and return to blogging fresh for the new year on January 01, 2012.

Please feel free to submit any questions or ideas for posts you may have to me at nicki[at]futurederm[dot]com, or use our Comment form.

Happy Holidays!