UV Light:  The Ultimate Skin Ager

In the 1980’s, it was believed that as much as 90 percent of our UV-light-induced DNA damage was incurred to our skin before age 20.  Now, the more commonly believed concept is that 40-50% is incurred in the pre-college years, whereas the rest comes with about 10% per decade of life.

With that said, dermatologists still believe that 80 to 90 percent of total skin aging comes from the sun.  According to research published in The New England Journal of Medicine, exposure to UV light directly causes an increase in the activity of enzymes that degrade collagen.  UV light has also been shown in research from Photochemistry and Photobiology to directly induce the formation of free radicals, which damage your cellular DNA and cause oxidative damage.  And, of course, UV light contributes directly to the formation of skin cancer, as shown in the journal PNAS, amongst many others.

Compared with photodamaged skin, sun-protected skin appears thinner, more evenly pigmented, laxer, and more finely lined, as stated in Archives of Dermatology.  So why would you want to absorb any sunlight at all?

As we all know by now, we need 15 minutes of unprotected UV exposure twice per week in order to synthesize proper levels of vitamin D (the time is on average – less at the equator and more in Paris in winter).   An editorial in The New England Journal of Medicine reports that 57% of 290 patients in one study were reported to have inadequate vitamin D levels. Another alarming 2007 study from the University of Pittsburgh found that approximately half of the pregnant women residing in the northeastern U.S. are “at high risk” for vitamin D insufficiencies and deficiencies, even when taking prenatal vitamins. Unfortunately, it does not seem those numbers are much different for non-pregnant patients in other northeastern cities.

It turns out that vitamin D may be more crucial to health than originally thought.  In a 2004 review featured in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, renowned vitamin D expert Dr. Michael Holick explains the importance of vitamin D in “cancers, type 1 diabetes, heart disease, and osteoporosis.” Holick’s review cites one particularly alarming study by Dr. William B. Grant, Ph.D., in which “up to 25% of the deaths due to breast cancer in Europe could be [statistically] attributed to a lack of UVB from sunlight.” A similar study conducted by Dr. Grant in the U.S. found that cancer rates are approximately twice as high in the northeast compared with the southwest. The study, published in Cancer , supports this statement with a statistically significant inverse relationship between UVB exposure and bladder, esophageal, kidney, lung, pancreatic, rectal, stomach, and corpus uteri cancers.

So, with aged skin and skin cancer on the one hand, and a slew of other cancers on the other, the best thing to do with the sun is to listen to your physician:  adequate sunscreen-free exposure for at least 15 minutes, twice per week.  Moderation is key!  (And, based on current evidence, it does not hurt to take a 2000 IU vitamin D supplement daily as well – but of course, check with your physician first.)

EMF Waves (Radiowaves, Microwaves, etc.)

A few months ago, a Clarins representative recommended that I purchase the Clarins UV Plus Sunscreen SPF 40 ($42.00, Amazon.com) for its “electromagnetic field (EMF) protection.”  As a former physics major in college, I was curious about this.  Was this just marketing hype?  Or do we actually need protection from EMF, which is caused by our numerous electronic and radio devices?

Turns out it may be a little of both.  Surprisingly alarming research from the journal Science of the Total Environment demonstrates a statistically significant difference in cancer morbidity between workers exposed to radiofrequency/microwaves and those who were not.  Additional research from Biomagnetics also questions the safety of radiofrequencies and whether they could cause damage to our DNA.  Some scientists hypothesize that EMF-induced damage is like UV-induced damage, accumulating over time.

However, it is still unknown to what degree EMF is a hazard to our skin and our health.  Which brings me back to the Clarins EMF-protecting products.  While it may be better to be safe than sorry, we still don’t know if and how EMF hurts the skin, so it is difficult to justify buying a product designed to fight EMF as opposed to, say, a retinoid, which is proven to fight free radicals and collagen-degrading enzymes.  In addition, there is no standard for EMF protection, as there is SPF for UVB protection.  As such, there is no way to gauge how effective the Clarins EMF-protecting products are in comparison to other sunscreens and moisturizers.  How do we know a basic moisturizer doesn’t provide an EMF barrier of some degree?   Although I love the company in general, this one is a hard sell for me.

Air Pollution (Ozone Exposure)

I think that two words we will hear a lot more of in the future are ozone exposure. Although the research is currently  limited, low-level ozone has been found to deplete the skin of vitamins C and E (amongst other antioxidants) and induce lipid peroxidation in upper layers of the skin, as reported in Biological Chemistry.   It is believed that regular exposure to smoke, smog, and other pollutants in the air can weaken the skin’s antioxidant levels and predispose the skin to aging UV rays, amongst other toxins.  As such, it’s our best known defense right now to consume foods rich in antioxidants, apply antioxidants topically, and perhaps even take antioxidant-rich skin care supplements.

The Take-Home Message

While we’re out saving the planet with our recyclable bottles and reusable bags, let’s not forget to save our skin from the toxins and pollutants out there.  The ozone layer of the planet is thinning and becoming more concentrated with toxins, which means that adequate UV protection and antioxidants more important than ever.   Just as all natural and/or organic products are not necessarily beneficial for you, nature itself has its own dangers.  Your best bet is to stay up-to-date with new scientific knowledge, keep regular visits with your dermatologist, and listen to your elders:  wear sunscreen!  :-)

Other Related Articles You May Like:

• Controversy:  Why All-Natural or Organic Skin Care is Not Necessarily Better
• Do At-Home Dermatology Kits Really Work?
• What is the Difference Between All-Natural and Organic Beauty Products?

Thankfully, numerous studies have come in on this topic, and I’ve highlighted a few below.

Best Fruits for Your Skin

According to the American Chemical Society, strawberries are the best fruit for your skin.  The ACS compared the antioxidant activities of twelve common fruits via ORAC score, and the results were the following:

• 1.  Strawberry
• 2.  Plum
• 3.  Orange
• 4.  Red grape
• 5.  Kiwi fruit
• 6.  Pink grapefruit
• 7.  White grape
• 8.  Banana
• 9.  Apple
• 10.  Tomato
• 11.  Pear
• 12.  Honeydew melon

Best Vegetables for Your Skin

In this exciting 2006 study by the American Botanical Council, the ORAC (oxygen radical absorbance capacity) score of 27 vegetables were compared, and artichokes, beetroot, cabbage, broccoli, red chicory, red chili, and yellow pepper had the highest ORAC score, indicating that these vegetables have the highest antioxidant activity.

Further, according to University of Pittsburgh (holla!) clinical professor of psychiatry Dr. David Servan Schrieber, M.D. Ph.D. in his book Anticancer, it is beneficial to consume inflammation-fighting mushrooms and cruciferous vegetables (e.g., cabbages, sprouts, broccoli and cauliflower), as well as vegetables rich in carotenoids/antioxidants (e.g., tomatoes, carrots, yams, squash, sweet potato, apricots, beets, and other brightly or richly colored vegetables).

The Bottom Line

The grocery store can act as your own personal Sephora, as this study in The Journal of Skin Pharmacology and Physiology affirms that eating a beneficial ingredient is actually more beneficial than topically applying it. However, the study further suggests that topically applying beneficial ingredients (like antioxidants) and ingesting them together is most beneficial.

In general, for the greatest benefit, look for brightly colored fruits and vegetables with relatively low water content, such as strawberries, kiwi fruit, broccoli, and sweet potatoes.  These dense, richly pigmented fruits and vegetables are likely to be the most rich in antioxidants.  Also look for mushrooms and cruciferous vegetables like cabbage and broccoli, which have been found to have anti-inflammatory activity.

Overall, it’s hard to do wrong in the produce aisle, but a few upgrades here and there never hurt anyone!   Here are some other food-related posts you might enjoy:

• Do Skin Care Supplements Really Work?
• What Helps the Skin More: Eating or Topically Applying a Key Ingredient?
• Nutriceuticals and BORBA Product Review
• Thanksgiving Food that is Good for Your Skin

If you enjoyed this post, you would most likely also enjoy Dr. Servan-Schreiber’s book Anticancer. A clinical professor with an M.D./Ph.D., Dr. Servan-Schrieber was diagnosed with brain cancer for the second time when he started to investigate the anti-cancer potential of certain foods and lifestyle choices on his own.  Now a healthy individual, Dr. Servan-Schreiber’s advice is both life-changing and doable.  I don’t want for this to sound like an advertisement – I was recommended the book by a Ph.D.-level colleague of mine when my mother was diagnosed with cancer last year, and I truly think that it might help someone else out there.  I highly recommend Anticancer!

With the plethora of different antioxidant serums out there, a woman has to wonder, which are the best?  FutureDerm investigates which gives you the best bang for your buck…

1.  Most Potent Antioxidant (CoffeeBerry):  RevaleSkin CoffeeBerry

Derived from the coffee cherry of the Coffea arabica plant when it is still green and “sub-ripe”, CoffeeBerry Extract contains an extremely high concentration of polyphenols.  So high, in fact, that CoffeeBerry Extract has been found to have the highest antioxidant potential of any ingredient, as published in the journal Dermatologic Therapy, based on its Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity Score (ORAC) — a method developed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture as the standard to measure the antioxidant capacity of natural substances.  This means CoffeeBerry is a better antioxidant than green tea, white tea, vitamin C, vitamin E, grape seed extract or idebenone.

A relatively new antioxidant (CoffeeBerry started to be included in products in 2002), CoffeeBerry can be found in the RevaleSkin line ($134.00 for the cleanser, day cream and night cream – excellent value!, Amazon.com) and PRIORI CoffeeBerry Products ($61.00-85.00, Amazon.com).  I personally have used the RevaleSkin line in the past, and cannot say enough wonderful things about it.

2.  Best for Sensitive Skin and Rosacea (Green Tea):  Replenix by Topix Cream

Yes, there are more potent antioxidants than green tea – even white tea has more antioxidant potential.  However, the key to why so many dermatologists recommend Replenix by Topix Cream ($48.00, Amazon.com) is not the fact that the cream contains green tea, but rather the parts of green tea that are included.  Replenix by Topix Cream contains a very high concentration of green tea polyphenols, the active compounds of green tea (the most popular of which is epigallocatechin gallate).  The polyphenols in green tea have been found in a 2003 study in Molecular Epidemiology and Cancer Prevention to prevent UVB-induced oxidation of lipids and proteins in mice. In addition, adds Dr. Gary Goldfaden, M.D. in a recent publication, “The use of a lotion containing a tea extract can produce a 70% improvement in rosacea compared to use of a lotion containing the base ingredients alone.”  One note of interest:  while the cream contains “90% green tea polyphenols” as an ingredient, this does not mean that Replenix by Topix Cream is 90% green tea polyphenols.  Rather, a “90% green tea polyphenol” compound is added as an ingredient in Replenix by Topix Cream after water, glycerol stearate and seven other ingredients, so I would safely estimate that the true concentration of green tea polyphenols is less than 10%.   Nevertheless, it’s still safe to say that the concentration of polyphenols is higher than it is in the majority of green tea-based treatments out there.  P.S. – If you are looking for a one-two punch of antioxidants and gold-standard anti-ager retinol, there is now Topix Replenix Retinol with green tea polyphenols, available in varying strengths, 3x ($60.00, Amazon.com) and 10x ($80.00, Amazon.com).

3.  Best for Boosting UV Protection and Reducing Sunspots Simultaneously (Vitamins C and E): Skinceuticals CE Ferulic

I think that it’s safe to say Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($120.00, Amazon.com) is one of my all-time favorite products.  The product is actually backed by an independent 2003 study by Lin et. al. which affirmed that a solution of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% alpha-tocopherol increases photoprotection against damaging UV rays and free radical formation. Skinceuticals CE Ferulic has also been reported in independent studies to reduce the existence of up to 96% of sunburned cells.

4.  Best Inexpensive Antioxidant Serum:  Paula’s Choice Super Antioxidant Serum

Paula’s Choice Super Antioxidant Serum ($24.95, PaulasChoice.com) is an excellent choice because it contains a high concentration of vitamin C (as stable tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) and vitamin E (as tocopherol), as well as a slew of other antioxidants, such as ubiquitin and green tea.  For the money, it is a solid antioxidant serum that will not disappoint!

5.  Best New Antioxidant (L-Ergothioniene): Remergent Clarifying Skin Brightener

If you’re someone who is over the tried and true, always looking for what’s new, look no further than Remergent Clarifying Skin Brightener ($29.90, Amazon.com). According to  a 2007 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, L-ergothioneine (EGT) was more effective at scavenging free radicals than popular antioxidant idebenone.  EGT, a stable antioxidant found in food plants as well as in animal tissue, is only found in limited products, and I have only seen it in Remergent Clarifying Skin Brightener.

6.  Best Certified Organic “Natural” Serum:  Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum

With a high concentration of grape juice, soothing aloe, network antioxidants ubiquinone, vitamin C, and vitamin E, firming DMAE, cell turnover-inspiring retinyl palmitate, and hydrating sodium hyaluronate — plus the assurance of certified organic ingredients — what’s not to love about Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum ($45.00, Amazon.com)?!   Plus, for those of you Kermits who eat, breathe, and sleep green eco-consciousness, the “certified organic” label guarantees 95-100% of ingredients must meet USDA organic standards for food.  Definitely a hot buy.

The Bottom Line

We’ve all committed sins against our skin, but antioxidants are one fine way to repent and renew.  I swear by Skinceuticals CE Ferulic under sunscreen for day and adore the RevaleSkin line with retinol-containing products at night, but numerous combinations of free-radical fighting antioxidants work.  In fact, according to some dermatologists, it is actually better to mix different kinds of antioxidants, as they tend to work on different free radical-fighting pathways or portions of the pathways.  Mixing antioxidants therefore seems to ensure better protection and repair.  With that said, do you have any favorite antioxidant treatments?  Know of any great antioxidants you’d love to see up for review?  Feel free to write in Comments below!

Photo: Stuart Stevenson (Flickr)

Rhino Horn:  A Remedy in Traditional Chinese Medicine

In traditional Eastern medicine, according to the journal Pachyderm, rhino horn is prepared by being shaved or ground into a powder, and then dissolved in boiling water.  To this day, it is sold in many Asian supplements to treat a large variety of ailments, including rashes, fever, rheumatism, gout, and other disorders.  Despite popular belief, rhino horn is not recommended in Eastern medicine as an aphrodisiac, and it is not traditionally prescribed as a beauty enhancer.

The greatest use of Rhino horn is actually as an component of Chung Shim Won balls, which consist of over 30 ingredients and are commonly used to treat high blood pressure, “unstable” mental conditions (hysteria, etc.), and disorders of the autonomic nervous system.

One of the most expensive supplements, ranging from US $75-$450 per 37.5 gram bottle in Asia, rhino horn is reportedly losing popularity in Asia due to concerns over both the cost and the endangerment of the rhinoceros species.  As such, buffalo horn is being touted as an acceptable supplement.

Can it Enhance Beauty and Make You Look Younger?

Based on the evidence available, no.  Even ancient traditional Chinese medicine does not seem to regularly prescribe rhino horn as an anti-aging supplement.  Perhaps the rumor that rhino horn makes one younger stemmed from the fact that rhino horn manages to repair itself when damaged.

Another possibility for the belief is that rhino horn is one of the few types of horns that are entirely comprised of keratin.  As reported by the television show Nature, most animal horns have a bony core covered by a relatively thin layer of keratin, whereas rhino horns are keratin the whole way through.  Despite this, there is no existing evidence I could find stating that consuming keratin increases keratin production in one’s hair, skin, and/or nails.  Rather, I would guess that consuming keratin is like consuming collagen:  while certain vitamins and minerals have been directly associated with increased collagen production, ingesting or applying more collagen to the skin does not necessarily boost collagen production.  Think of it like baking a cake:  if you put the right ingredients in the bowl, you’ll get the desired product.  But if you put a slice of finished cake in with the eggs, butter, and flour, it’s not going to grant you a better product.

Ecological Concerns:  Why It’s Illegal

According to the International Rhino Foundation, three of the five species of rhinoceros —the Javan, Sumatran and Black Rhinoceros—are critically endangered.  The greater, one-horned Indian Rhinoceros is endangered, with fewer than 2700 remaining in the wild, whereas the remaining White is registered as “vulnerable”, with approximately 17,500 remaining in the wild.   As such, it is understandable why animal rights activists were outraged at the reported use of rhinoceros horn by Ms. Macpherson.  However, Macpherson has released a statement stating that she “never knowingly consumed or encouraged the use or consumption of any products which contain material derived from endangered species,” and that she regrets “any distress or offence that her banter with an interviewer might have caused”.

Overall Opinions

If you wish to increase your youth and beauty, step away from the rhino, and move towards some of Elle Macpherson’s affirmed beauty secrets:

• Consume an organic (or at least largely fruit/vegetable-based) diet;
• Eat lots of omega-3 fatty acids;
• Exercise regularly;
• Most surprisingly, don’t be afraid of a few extra pounds.  Elle, slender but not scary-skinny, has long affirmed what researchers have only recently found: Japanese women who consume approximately 70 grams of fat daily look younger than their low-fat diet consuming counterparts, as published in the British Journal of Nutrition in 2010.

What do you think of consuming beauty supplements?  Let me know your thoughts in Comments below!  :-)

Keratosis pilaris is found most commonly on the back and outer sides of the upper arms (though the lower arms can also be affected).  It is also commonly found on the thighs, hands, and the tops of the legs, flanks, buttocks, and face, where it is commonly mistaken for acne (especially in adolescents).

One telltale sign of KP is that the condition traditionally gets worse in the winter.  Another clue is that patients with KP often have been previously diagnosed with atopic dermatitis or ichytosis, as noted in the British Journal of Dermatology.

Although it is widely believed that KP decreases with age, this is not necessarily the case; as noted in a 2006 study amongst 83 patients over the course of 20 years, KP improved with age in 35% of patients, remained unchanged in 43%, and worsened in 22%.

Various Types of Keratosis Pilaris

There are numerous types of KP.  Helpful pictures of each are available here, through GoogleHealth.

• Keratosis pilaris rubra (red, inflamed bumps which can be on arms, head, legs)
• Keratosis pilaris alba (rough, bumpy skin with no irritation)
• Keratosis pilaris rubra faceii (reddish rash on the cheeks)

How to Treat Keratosis Pilaris

1.  First and foremost, visit a board-certified dermatologist, who will be able to properly diagnose the condition.  It is possible that keratosis pilaris may advance to a rare condition known as keratosis pilaris atrophicans in some genetically susceptible individuals, so it is important to be properly assessed by a physician.

2.  As recommended by your physician, use moisturizing lotions containing urea, lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, tretinoin, or vitamin D.  Some over-the-counter options include:

• AmLactin ($22.99, Amazon.com), which contains an unprecedented 12% lactic acid.  Molecules of lactic acid are larger than glycolic acid, so it does not penetrate the skin as easily.  However, lactic acid has not been associated with the same increase in UV sensitivity as glycolic acid, as mentioned in a 2000 study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.  As such, lactic acid is a better choice for the warm summer months, or if you live in a sunny climate year-round.
• NeoStrata AHA 15 Lotion ($35.00, Amazon.com), which contains 15% glycolic acid.  The advantages to glycolic acid over lactic acid are that glycolic acid has a smaller molecular structure, allowing for it to penetrate the skin more easily, and that glycolic acid has anti-aging properties, advancing desquamation and thinning of the stratum corneum (the uppermost layer of the skin). By exfoliating the top layer of the skin, glycolic acid peels smooth the skin, quicken the rate of cell turnover (which is reduced by up to 7% every ten years), decrease small wrinkles and increase the fibroblast proliferation of collagen.  Again, however, given that glycolic acid sensitizes the skin to UV rays, it is highly recommended that Neostrata or any other treatment be used with sun protection, preferably in the form of UV protective clothing.
• Glytone Keratosis Pilaris 3-Piece Kit ($53.35, Amazon.com).  Is it necessary to have a special cleanser for KP?  No.  But it is nice to have a specially-designed kit (well, for some of us, anyway!), and this one, replete with high concentrations of glycolic acid, is as good as any at delivering the AHA all over the skin.
• LacHydrin Five ($11.33, Amazon.com), which contains 5% lactic acid.  The interesting thing about  LacHydrin Five is that it is touted for its buffering with ammonium hydroxide, a basic substance.  While this buffering makes the lotion more easily tolerated, it also increases the pH and hence alters the potency of lactic acid.  So I’m not sure I like this one as well, but I will say that it is a solid choice for those with easily irritated or sensitive skin types.

3.  Consider physician-administered pulsed tunable dye laser treatments, which were found in a 2000 study in the Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy to improve the appearance of keratosis pilaris-associated bumps, though the skin was still found to have a rough texture thereafter.  For patient’s own opinions on laser treatments for KP, please visit the KP Online Community forum here.

4.  Call your physician for a follow-up if the condition does not improve after 1-2 weeks of continuous use of the recommended over-the-counter treatment(s).

The Bottom Line

Keratosis pilaris is a common skin condition, and no one should have to suffer from it.  If you think you may have KP, talk to your dermatologist immediately.  Your skin will thank you for it!

With that said, I have used the following MLA Skin Care products for the past few weeks.  I must say, all of the products take to the skin beautifully, as they are lightweight and easily absorbable.  The light silicone (dimethicone) base of all the products also makes it possible to skip a makeup primer altogether!   However, I did like some of the products more than others.  Here is my analysis and experience with each below:

MLA Multivitamin Serum

My favorite product by far in the MLA Skin Care Line is the Multivitamin Serum ($85.00, MLASkincare.com).  The serum contains high concentrations of vitamin C (as stable derivative tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) and vitamin E (as tocopheryl acetate), which synergistically work together as “network antioxidants” to enhance their antioxidant potential, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s textbook Cosmetic Dermatology.  Numerous studies also point to the activity of vitamins C and E as having the potential to boost UV protection, as proven in a 2002 study in Free Radical Biology and Medicine.

The Multivitamin Serum also contains niacinamide, which has been proven to do just about everything from reducing fine lines and wrinkles to lightening hyperpigmented spots somewhat to treating rosacea and skin sallowness (yellowing) to increasing skin’s elasticity, as stated in Dermatologic Surgery.

While I also normally don’t like vitamin A in a product containing vitamin C – vitamin A works best at a higher pH – the fact that this product contains vitamin A as retinyl palmitate makes this particular ingredient formulation more amenable than most.  Add in the antioxidant ubiquinone, the hydrating olive oil, and the powerhouse green tea, and you have yourself a real winner here.  I personally love it instead of a primer if I am going out for the evening!  Product Rating: 9/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 2/3.  Sunscreen: N/A for a serum).

Multivitamin Serum Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Isopropyl Isostearate, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Phytantriol, Ubiquinone, Retinyl Palmitate, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Squalane, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Ceramide 2, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Ursolic Acid, Ilomastat, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Tribehenin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Pentylene Glycol, Polyacrylate 13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Brightening Serum

Although I hate to say it, of all of the products, my least favorite was the Brightening Serum ($85.00, MLASkincare.com).   Sure, the product glides on like a dream, absorbs easily, and even feels great on the skin.  Unfortunately, the issue here is that most of the ingredients proven to lighten and brighten the skin best are at odds with being gentle.  Truth be told, the gold standards proven by research right now are bull-like powerhouses:  4% hydroquinone (which is not recommended for darker skin tones), the new Stanford-developed Lumixyl^TM (just out in 2009), and, of course, in-office procedures such as chemical peels and certain laser and light treatments.  And while the MLA Multivitamin Serum contains a high concentration of arbutin, which has a chemical structure similar to hydroquinone and has been proven in scientific journal studies to reduce melanogenesis in two distinct ways, it also has been demonstrated that arbutin itself can be harsh on the skin, as paradoxical pigment darkening may occur after [arbutin] use as a result of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.   Some skin care products now contain deoxyarbutin instead, which has been established in Experimental Dermatology to not demonstrate this effect.

So, as you can tell, I would personally choose the Multivitamin Serum over the Brightening Serum on any given day, even if my primary concern was skin dullness.  Product Rating: 6/10 (High concentration of proven effective ingredients:  2/3.  Unique formulation or new technology:  2/3.  Value for the money: 1/3.  Sunscreen:  N/A for a serum.)

Brightening Serum Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopropyl Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Dimethicone, Arachidyl Alcohol, Diacetyl Boldine, Aminoethylphosphinic Acid, Alpha-Arbutin, Glucosamine HCl, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract, Rumex Occidentalis Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi (Bearberry) Leaf Extract, Morus Alba (Mulberry) Root Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Ursolic Acid, Ilomastat, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Ceramide 2, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Glycerin, Tribehenin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Pentylene Glycol, Polyacrylate 13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.

MLA Power Cream

MLA Power Cream is a solid product, particularly if you have dry skin and want a product rich in collagen-boosting peptides.   The peptide in highest concentration is palmitoyl oligopeptide (AKA palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 or palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 or Matrixyl), a synthetic signaling peptide proven to stimulate collagen types I, III, and IV; fibronectin; elastin; and glycosaminoglycan production.  (In short, regular use of palmitoyl oligopeptide can help make your skin look a little firmer, and can help prevent it from further laxity in the future).

MLA Power Cream also contains palmitoyl tripeptide-5 (Syn^®-Coll), which has been reported by The International Journal of Cosmetic Science to be a synthetic signal peptide that mimics the thrombospondin I tripeptide sequence to activate TGF-β, thereby promoting collagen formation via TGF-β.  In a controlled trial, 60 healthy volunteers received 2.5% Syn^®-Coll cream vs. 10% palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 cream vs. placebo cream twice daily for 84 days, and Syn^®-Coll significantly decreased average and maximum relief by −22 and −36 μm respectively.   Considering that MLA Power Cream is one of the few moisturizers offering palmitoyl tripeptide-5, I’m excited!

Overall, MLA Power Cream is a little rich for oily skin, but I really love it, especially for those with sensitive skin who are concerned about aging but cannot tolerate retinoids.  I give this one a Product Rating: 8/10.  (High concentration of proven effective ingredients:  3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology:  3/3.  Value for the money: 2/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1.)

Power Cream Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Diglycerin, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isopropyl Isostearate, Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Ceramide 2, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Glucosamine HCl, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Ursolic Acid, Ilomastat, Ubiquinone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Tribehenin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Pentylene Glycol , Ceteareth-20, Steareth-2, Lecithin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Ethylparaben, Fragrance.

MLA Eye Serum

MLA Eye Serum is a solid product.  Its shining star is again palmitoyl tripeptide-5, which stimulates collagen production and increases skin firmness somewhat, as affirmed  by The International Journal of Cosmetic Science. The product’s arnica montana extract brightens a bit, whereas the olive oil, apple extract, and green tea provide antioxidant protection.  Again, the product also has a silicone base, which makes it glide on easily (and hence eases further make-up application!)

However, unlike my favorite eye creams, MLA Eye Serum does not contain both retinol and vitamin K, which have been proven in this study to improve under-eye circles in approximately 93 percent of patients.  Considering that I’m a med student, I really want to get rid of dark circles, so I think I’ll stick to treatments with both retinol and vitamin K, like Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Cream.  Despite this, MLA Eye Serum really is a solid product, particularly for those with dry skin and a bit of saggy undereye skin (it won’t make it go away, but it will boost collagen production to hopefully firm that up somewhat).  Product Rating:  6/10 (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 2/3.  Unique formulation or new technology:  2/3.  Value for the money:  2/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).

Eye Serum Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Isopropyl Isostearate, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Diglycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Ceramide 2, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Chrysin, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Algae Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Ursolic Acid, Ilomastat, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract, HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Tribehenin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Pentylene Glycol, Polyacrylate 13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Steareth-20, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Ethylparaben.

Overall Opinions

MLA Skin Care is a solid line with high concentrations of clinically proven ingredients.  Add in the fact that the products apply well, feel great, and look amazing under cosmetics, and you have yourself a winning line.  While the product formulations vary somewhat on their research-proven efficacy, I do love the the MLA Multivitamin Serum and the MLA Power Cream.  It is my plan right now to use Cetaphil, Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, and LaRoche Posay Anthelios XL SPF 50+ in the morning, and Cetaphil, Green Cream Level 6, and waiting a few minutes before applying either the MLA Multivitamin Serum (if I’m leaving the house) or the MLA Power Cream (before I go to sleep) in the evening.   Either way, these MLA products are definitely great and high-quality, and I look forward to seeing what Dr. Amerian comes up with next!

The lovely Mrs. Kutcher reportedly gets VelaSmooth treatments.  Photo Source: Demi Moore W Magazine – December 2009; Originally uploaded by trendlerden (flickr)

Ah, summer.  The sun comes out, and so do your summer clothes, and with them comes close inspection of your thighs.  Or, should I say, what used to be your thighs, now blobs of fleshy matter, replete with dimples but no smiles…

Thankfully, in recent years, medical researchers have designed numerous methods for reducing the appearance of cellulite.  What’s more, others have even devoted their time to testing which methods work best, saving you and I valuable time and money.  So what works best?  Read on…

#1:  VelaSmooth^TM

According to a 2004 study published in the Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, the radio-frequency light treatment VelaSmooth^TM may be the gold standard in eradicating cellulite.  In the study, thirty-five women underwent two VelaSmooth treatments per week for either four or eight weeks.  At the conclusion of four weeks, 70% had a reduction in thigh circumference; after eight weeks, that figure expanded to a full 100%, with a mean lean reduction of 0.8 inches in circumference.

Although many people do not know that there is an FDA-approved cellulite treatment, VelaSmooth is in fact FDA-approved.  Developed by a medical doctor, Dr. Shimon Eckhouse, and a Ph.D.-level physicist, Dr. Michael Kreindel, VelaSmooth works by combining what the company calls elōs (electrical-optical synergy, in actuality specific frequencies of light and electrical energy), Bi-Polar Radio Frequency (again, specific energy energies), infrared light energies, plus negative pressure and tissue manipulation.  In addition, and perhaps more significantly to the public, it also has been reported thatDemi Moore gets VelaSmooth.  (And who wouldn’t want to look like that at 45 in a bikini?!)

According to RealSelf.com, the average cost of VelaSmooth is approximately $3000, with cost varying with numerous factors, including the severity of your cellulite, location, and the experience of the practitioner.  For more, please visit VelaSmooth.com.

Reasons for Ranking:

• Peer-reviewed published study demonstrated strong level of effectiveness and quantifiable results
• Non-invasive (does not penetrate the skin)
• Quick recovery time

#2:  Subcision or Rejuveskin

Developed by Drs. Orentreich and Orentreich (no that is not a typo) in 1995, subcision is a simple surgical technique in which the septa that retain the skin are cut and the subcutaneous fat is redistributed more evenly under the skin’s surface using a NoKor needle.  A specific cut-redistribution-compression technique is used to minimize complications and to stimulate the healing process.  In a similar procedure,Rejuveskin, the septa is cut and the fat is redistributed, but the patient’s own tissue (harvested earlier) is used to replace the severed septae and fill in dimpled areas before smoothing out the skin and closing.

According to a 2000 study in the International Journal of Dermatology of subcision amongst 232 patients, 183 of them (78.87%) were satisfied with the improvement achieved during the first treatment session, while 47 patients (20.25%) exhibited “reasonable” results.  Just two (0.86%) patients were dissatisfied with the results.  Similarly, Rejuveskin has a reported 80% satisfaction rate amongst patients.

Unfortunately, despite the high success rate, the surgical route is not for everyone.  TheInternational Journal of Dermatology reports that subcision is best reserved for patients with “level II or III cellulite,” meaning patients who see cellulite on their hips and thighs whether contracting their leg muscles or not.  Patients with “level I cellulite,” witnessing cellulite only when they contract their underlying leg and hip muscles, are not well-served by subcision.  It has not been publicly stated to my knowledge whether or not Rejuveskin is appropriate for all levels of cellulite.

Further, as would be expected with any surgical technique, there are necessary considerations with subcision or Rejuveskin, such as a patient’s bleeding and medication profile.  As always, speak to your doctor.

Reasons for Ranking:

• Peer-reviewed published study demonstrated strong level of effectiveness, though categorical and non-quantifiable results
• Outpatient procedure
• Lasting results
• Not many physicians perform this procedure

#3:  Lipomassage by Endermologie

The reviews for Endermologie are mixed.  On the one hand, the FDA has approved the founding company’s claim that Endermologie temporarily reduces the appearance of cellulite. In support of this, in one company-affiliated, controlled, randomized study done on Lipomassage by Endermologie, it was found that lipolytic (fat-dissolving) activity of cutaneous and subcutaneous tissue was increased by 20-35% after the treatment, with lipolytic activity measured as a result of glycerol production.  On the other hand, according to the text Non-Surgical Skin Tightening and Lifting, whether newly called “Lipomassage” or not, Endermologie has lost its favor to other treatments.  According to a 1999 study in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, only 10 of 35 (28.5%) of patients reported having improved appearance of cellulite following treatment.  The researchers reported that they “do not believe…[the treatment] is effective in improving the appearance of cellulite.”

For those still curious, Endermologie entails the use of a handheld machine that “kneads” areas of a patient that are covered in a nylon stocking (usually buttocks, hips, stomach, thighs) for 35 to 45 minutes. LPG, the company behind Endermologie, claims that results are available in as little as six sessions, although individual results may vary.

Reasons for Ranking:

• Peer-reviewed published study demonstrated low level of effectiveness
• Non-invasive (does not penetrate the skin)
• Proven more effective than aminophylline-based cellulite cream

#4:  Methylxanthine-Based Cellulite Creams

Ever thought you’d put a form of stimulant on your thighs?  Well, judging from sales, you probably have.  According to Dr. Zoe Draelos et. al, creams with methylxanthines (including caffeine and aminophyllines) are phosphodiesterase inhibitors. When phosphodiesterases are inhibited, this activates ß-adrenergic receptors, which in turn break down fat into its glycerol and fatty acid components. Methylxanthines may additionally work by dehydrating the fat cells, decreasing their appearance through the skin.  For best results, it has been demonstrated that methylxanthine creams should be used continuously.  Still, don’t expect too much:  According to a 1999 study in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, only 3 of 35 (8.6%) of patients reported having improved appearance of cellulite following 12 weeks of treatment.  Methylxanthines may be found in Neutrogena Anti-Cellulite Treatment, Retinol Formula ($13.89, Amazon.com) in the form of caffeine, and University Medical De-Cellulite Time-Released Anti-Cellulite System($16.70, Amazon.com) in the form of aminophylline.

Reasons for Ranking:

• Peer-reviewed published study demonstrated very low level of effectiveness
• Very low cost compared to other cellulite treatments
• Needs to be applied continuously
• May not work for you, period

#5:  Diet and Exercise

Surprised this ranks so low?  Me too, and I’m the one writing it!  However, according to the Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, there are four hypotheses for the development of cellulite, none of which directly mention one’s weight:  sexually dimorphic skin architecture, altered connective tissue septae, vascular changes and inflammatory factors.  While I do acknowledge that consuming certain types of fat contributes to inflammation, we all have the skinny girl friend who hates to wear shorts because of her cellulite.  Plus, very few men have cellulite, no matter what their body fat percentage.  There has to be more to it than weight management!

Still, there is some – albeit limited – evidence to demonstrate the role of diet and exercise in cellulite development.  For one, yo-yo and crash dieting seems to contribute to the development of cellulite, as fat is broken down and re-added unevenly, causing a cottage-cheese like appearance under the skin.  For another, as Dr. Nicholas Perricone and Dr. Howard Murad suggest, increasing circulation and hydration to the skin may improve the appearance of cellulite and decrease future cellulite production.  Both doctors recommend consuming a diet rich in fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and omega-3 fatty acids; exercising at least 30 minutes daily; drinking lots of water; and taking nutritional supplements.   Even if this approach has not been demonstrated in any mass peer-reviewed published study, it has been proven as a key to good health and longevity – and don’t we all want that anyway?!

Reasons for Ranking:

• No large-scale, multi-center, peer-reviewed, blinded studies supporting this theory specifically to eradicate cellulite (at least not that I could find; if they exist, I do apologize, and will post later)
• Healthy
• Low-cost relative to surgical/dermatological procedures

The Bottom Line

Approximately 85% of women develop cellulite at some time in their lives.  And even though we live in a world where men have walked on the moon and we can instantaneously communicate with the touch of a button, we still don’t understand exactly why women get cellulite.  Despite this, to say “There is nothing we can do about cellulite” in 2010 is like refusing to believe Ashton Kutcher will be updating Twitter today.  It’s happening.  The truth is out there.  Granted, it’s not the answer to everything – even VelaSmooth leaves 30% of women wanting more – but even Twitter gives you just 160 characters at a time.  You have to start somewhere.  Now, if you’ll excuse me, I have to find out what Demi’s up to… ]]> http://www.futurederm.com/2010/07/06/getting-rid-of-cellulite-ranking-current-cellulite-treatments/feed/ 3 http://www.futurederm.com/2010/06/30/im-baaack-interview-with-dr-rolanda-johnson-about-the-new-secret-deodorant/ http://www.futurederm.com/2010/06/30/im-baaack-interview-with-dr-rolanda-johnson-about-the-new-secret-deodorant/#comments Wed, 30 Jun 2010 16:04:49 +0000 futurederm http://www.futurederm.com/?p=2426 After a long hiatus of writing – which included taking Step I of the medical boards, recovering from doing so (!), and moving in with my boyfriend – I am pleased to say that this hopeful FutureDerm is back in the business of blogging.  And I’d love to kick off this summer with an exclusive interview with Dr. Rolanda Johnson, a Ph.D. in organic chemistry (yowza!) and a Procter & Gamble beauty scientist.  Dr. Johnson not only immerses herself in cosmetic science in her work, but it seems to be transcribed in her DNA, with both of her parents working as scientists.  Best of all, Dr. Johnson is a self-described beauty junkie.  An awesome, educated Ph.D. level chemist and a beauty junkie?!  Seems like a perfect first interview for Summer 2010! I’m proud to welcome Dr. Johnson to FutureDerm.com.

1.)  Welcome to the blog, Dr. Johnson!  So tell us, what is different about these new formulations of Secret?

Secret Sheer Mineral is formulated with a mineral to provide sheer effective protection. The formula is designed with just the right level of talc to provide 24 hour protection that lets your skin breathe.

Secret Soothing Effects is designed for sensitive skin and hydrates to soothe underarm skin. The new formula, infused with both soy and acai berry, is clinically tested to significantly reduce visible redness after just four days.

Secret Smooth Effects is designed to condition and lubricate skin so you get a long lasting shave, enabling you to shave less often. After approximately seven (7) days, Secret Smooth Effects is clinically tested to enable women to shave less often giving them the confidence to raise their arms.

2.)  What inspired the products’ development?

All of Secret’s new products are inspired by unmet consumer needs. For Secret Sheer Mineral, consumers expressed the need for a product that goes on sheer and is lightweight, while still providing strong odor and wetness protection. For Secret Soothing Effects, consumers expressed the need for an efficacious product that is designed specifically for sensitive skin and reduces underarm redness. For Secret Smooth Effects, consumers expressed the need for a product that works but also delivers the added benefit of reducing the times needed to shave under their arms.

3.)  Are the products suitable for all seasons and levels of activity for most people?

Yes, all of these products can be worn year-round and through all activities.

4.)  I’ve always wondered this – how do you test the efficacy of the deodorants against perspiration and odor?

We have internal methods to evaluate the efficacy of odor and wetness protection which include evaluating the amount of perspiration of panelists after exposure to high temperatures (we call this our Secret Sweat Box) in addition to having trained odor graders to evaluate the odor.

5.)  How do you select new scents?

Scents are chosen based on women’s preferences.

6.)  How has the product performed in testing?

Secret Sheer Mineral was shown to provide 24 protection amongst the group of women tested. For Secret Soothing Effects it was found to hydrate underarm skin when tested among a panel of women. Additionally, it is clinically tested to reduce visible redness just after 4 days.

We designed Secret Smooth Effects to help lubricate skin for a longer lasting shave. Secret Smooth Effects, when evaluated amongst a representative panel of women, was clinically tested to allow women to shave less often.

7.)  What inspired you to work for Procter & Gamble?  Do you enjoy your work?

I was first exposed to Procter & Gamble when I attended a Research and Technical Careers in Industry Program the summer before I graduated. I was in awe with the depth of scientific research here at P&G. From beauty care to personal health care, the depth of technical mastery is amazing. I was also attracted to how many people seemed to love their job and how many people looked so young despite working here for 25 years- so to a young college student, someone who had been working for 25 years had to have been much older, but they simply did not look like it! I wanted to drink the water too!  :-)

I absolutely enjoy and love what I do. I love talking about science, I enjoy research and I love talking about skin care and the things women can do to help make us feel and look beautiful! Being a young girl that was always into the beauty magazines and who grew up around science, my mom a science teacher and my dad retired from a chemical plant, I feel I was destined to do this type of work!

8.)  What is the best part of your job?

There is never a dull moment! Each day there is something new. I really enjoy the teaching part of my job – being able to explain the science of skin care, formulation and ingredients to others.

Thank you, Dr. Johnson!

-Personal Use and Opinions-

I started using Secret Sheer Mineral ($5.11, Amazon.com) this summer, and I must say, it really does a great job of keeping my skin cool and dry and smelling fresh.  It glides on smoothly and dries clear, which is important, given the fact that I (like many graduate students who find ourselves rolling out of bed last-minute) often need to get dressed in under ten minutes.  Although I mainly spend my days sitting at a desk or a computer, this deodorant was also effective through my daily run.  My only recommendation is to apply the deodorant before you put on your clothing; although it dries clear, it is initially white, and it is easier to avoid the residue rather than wait for it to dry.  Overall, however, I highly recommend this line.  Product Rating: 8.5/9.0 (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 2.5/3.  Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 3/3.  Sunscreen: N/A).

So what gives?  According to a report from Investor Place.com, P&G execs have actually embraced the “less is more” philosophy, reducing their product line by about 30% after admitting that the wide variety of Pantene products actually did more harm than good.  The decision was based on the fact that P&G sales jumped 7% as consumer spending firmed up and the new  products, price cuts and stepped-up advertising took hold.  I personally dislike the decision – in the age of the internet, customization is key.  Women want to feel that they are using a product that is unique for their own hair – after all, how many of us will not let our husbands or boyfriends share our shampoo?!   With that said, however, perhaps that is why I am a medical student and not, say, a P&G exec.

So which “new” Pantene product should I use?

There are now seven varieties of Pantene available:

• Fine Hair Solutions – According to Pantene, the collection’s unique systems provide options for smoothness, hydration, strength against damage, and natural volume to hair.  Closest to the old Volume Collection.
• Medium-Thick Hair Solutions – Designed to replace the Full & Thick Collections (though, sadly, it does not perform the same).
• Color Hair Solutions - According to Pantene, the collection’s unique systems help protect colored hair and restore brilliance, with options that leave hair with fullness or smooth the hair with intense moisturizers.  Designed to replace the Color Revival Collection.
• Curly Hair Series - According to Pantene, the collection’s unique systems can provide frizz control with options for curl definition or straight smoothness.  Designed to replace the Curls Collection.
• Classic Care Solutions – Designed to replace the Pro-V and Moisture Renewal Collections
• Nature Fusion
• Relaxed & Natural
• Lines without replacement (ingredients-wise):  Ice Shine, Extra Straight, Smooth, Expressions, and Anti-Frizz Collections

According to Pantene, the shampoos and conditioners can also be selected on the basis of the hair type that you have:

• Fine hair means the hair shaft is small. The hair can be thin and flexible, and prone to damage and breakage.
• Medium-Thick hair means the hair shaft is large. The hair can be prone to frizz and breakage, and can be less flexible than fine hair.
• Curly hair has twists and turns, and can be rough and difficult to control or tame.
• If your hair fits into more than one category, you may benefit from selecting the products based on the look you want to achieve

Overall Opinions

I personally am disappointed that my Pantene Full and Thick Shampoo and Conditioner is being discontinued.  I tried the new equivalent – the Pantene Medium & Thick – and I was very disappointed.  It simply didn’t enlarge the hair shaft as well as the Pantene Full and Thick Shampoo and Conditioner did.  I don’t think that the mass line downsizing was a great idea on the basis of Procter & Gamble, but then again, time will tell.  All I can say is that I am resisting the urge to stock up on my old favorite; while shampoo and conditioner can take years to harden and/or separate, I’m making like Rascal Flatts and moving onto new products and lines.  It is my duty as a beauty blogger, after all!

Have any suggestions for shampoos or conditioners to try?  Please feel free to leave them in Comments below, or drop me a line at nicki[at]futurederm[dot]com.  :-)