Some products purchased by me. Some products sent for consideration. All opinions are my own. This post contains affiliate links.

Happy Friday everyone! Today I’ve got a tutorial for you with the sizzling Summer collection from Laura Mercier called Folklore. I have Sun Glow eyeshadow, Earth Glow eyeshadow, and Folklore lip crayon. If you have never tried the Laura Mercier Illuminating Eyeshadows before, they’ve got a wonderful, buttery smooth texture. They’re very pigmented and they blend easily. I had all day wear on eyeshadow primer with these colors. I found Earth Glow especially easy to blend out, so I made sure to show that in this tutorial.

How to Achieve the Look
1. Start by applying Urban Decay Walk of Shame to the browbone, blending downwards. Then apply Laura Mercier Sun Glow to the lid and inner v.
2. Apply Laura Mercier Earth Glow to the lower lash line, outer corner of the lid, and the outer 3/4 of the crease. The shape doesn’t have to be perfect because we’re going to blend it out.
3. Blend Earth Glow inwards along the lower lash line and inwards and upwards in the crease. Add a tiny bit of Sun Glow at the inner lower lash line. Use a little bit of Urban Decay Beware in the crease.
4. Highlight on the browbone and at the inner corner with BFTE Ornamental.
5. Add a bit of Urban Decay 24/7 eyeliner pencil in Smog to the outer lower lash line. Add mascara.

Eyes
Too Faced Shadow Insurance
Urban Decay Walk of Shame on the browbone
Laura Mercier Sun Glow on the lid and inner v and inner lower lash line
Laura Mercier Earth Glow in the crease, outer lower lash line
Urban Decay Beware in the crease
BftE Ornamental to highlight at brows and inner corner of eyes
Urban Decay 24/7 Smog Eyeliner at the outer lower lash line
Anastasia Lash Genius
bareMinerals Flawless Definition Mascara
Physicians Formula Fake Out Mascara
Anastasia Hypercolor Brow Tint in Ultra Violet – brows

Face
Paula’s Choice Barely There Sheer Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 in 1 Fair Light
Becca Beach Tint in Lychee as blush
NARS Copacabana illuminator to highlight
NARS Light Reflecting Loose Setting Powder

Lips
Laura Mercier Lip Crayon in Folklore

I couldn’t resist sharing a picture of me wearing my Marvel Super Heroes Iron Man shirt. I’ve been playing in the Marvel Heroes beta and having a great time. I’ve mostly played Storm and Thor. What can I say, I like to call the Lightning

I really love the Laura Mercier Folklore collection. Sun Glow is definitely my favorite type of gold and I was pleasantly surprised by just how much I liked Earth Glow! I think the Folklore lip crayon is a very easy to wear shade of soft fuchsia. I’m definitely interested in checking out more colors from the collection, such as Mayan Sun lip crayon and Fire Glow eyeshadow. I purchased Canard matte teal Crème Eye Liner from the collection and it’s beautiful. You could easily apply a wash of Sun Glow to your eyes and then line them with Canard for  a beautiful Summer duo.
I think this is a very easy to wear for Summer look.

What do you think of the Laura Mercier Folklore collection? Do you like this Golden Bronzed tutorial?

Eyelash growth serums are all the rage, but they don’t necessarily all work. Recently Rimmel released Rimmel Lash Accelerator Mascara with Grow-Lash Complex ($8.53, amazon.com) and Rimmel Volume Accelerator Mascara ($13.89, amazon.com), which contains hair-growth ingredient Procapil™ along with other ingredients intended for conditioning and moisturizing. While it might seem promising at first, Procapil™ doesn’t seem like it makes for the best eyelash growth serum (and it’s hardly been proven for hair growth). However, Rimmel’s latest product does make pretty darn good mascara anyway.

Hair Growth Cycle

Many products intended to increase hair growth work under the idea that they manipulate hair’s growth cycle, which occurs in three phases: the anagen phase, the catagen phase, and the telogen phase. While hair itself is not “alive,” so to speak — the strand is made of protein and keratin — the strands are a part of system of dermal papilla cells near the root that causes its growth.

In the anagen, or growth, phase, the hair root’s cells divide quickly, creating new hair and pushing it up and out of the follicle. This process can last for years in hair, but is much shorter — something like 30 to 45 days — for eyelashes (American Hair Loss Society). In the next phase, the catagen, or degeneration, phase, the hair is cut off from the blood supply and cells and stops growing. This becomes known as a “club hair.” Club hairs then enter the telogen, or resting, phase, where the hair is fully formed and no longer growing. This lasts for several months in the scalp and even longer for hair on other parts of the body, including eyelashes.

At the end of the hair growth cycle, when hairs are in the telogen phase they detached in what’s called the exogen phase. This is the phase that hair is in when it “sheds” from our body (Expert Opinions in Biology). At any point in time, various hairs on your head and body will be in different phases of growth and sometimes a hair goes through phases several time before exogen.

The Kind of Hair Loss this Procapil™ Stops

The idea behind products that increase hair and prevent hair loss is generally that if you lengthen and increase the anagen phase for hair, then there will logically be more of it. It does this by targeting the main cause of androgenic alopecia (or testosterone-induced hair loss) involved in male pattern baldness: dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Dihydrotestosterone is created in a peripheral conversion of testosterone by 5α-reductase.

Hair follicles have androgen (or male hormone) receptors, which are more sensitive in some than others. When dihydrotestosterone bonds with the follicles androgen receptors it activates particular genes that cause the hair follicles to become miniaturized, shortening their anagen (growth) cycle (The New England Journal of Medicine).

Stopping Hair Loss with Procapil™

Procapil™ is the main growth ingredient in this mascara and is produced by the company Sederma. It’s a combination of biotinyl-GHK, apigenin, and oleanolic acid, and is primarily intended to stop the kind of hair loss associated with androgenic alopecia.

Biotinyl-GHK (also known as biotinyl tripeptide-1) is intended to extend and improve the anagen phase, purportedly by improving the skin matrix and metabolic activity, according to Sederma’s 2011 patent. Essentially, this peptide is supposed to improve the root shaft and dermal papilla and increase the protein that anchors hair.

Oleanolic acid, according to the company, inhibits the 5α-reductase that causes dihydrotestosterone, which, in turn, causes male pattern baldness. Another study, cited in this a 1995 review in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology, also found that oleanolic acid is a 5α-reductase inhibitor.

Apigenin is used as a vasodilator, intended to increase blood flow to the area of application. While I haven’t found studies other than the company’s own information, there have been studies on apigenin for its ability to increase permeability of the skin barrier and its tumor preventative qualities (Experimental Dermatology, Pharmaceutical Research).

In studies done both ex-vivo and in-vivo for Sederma, researchers saw an improvement in both the ex-vivo skin explant with hair follicles and in a placebo controlled study on 35 men with more than 20% of their hair in the telogen phase (Sederma Study). However, aside from this there are few studies about the effectiveness of these ingredients or their combination in the serum Procapil™.

Will This Work for Eyelashes?

This might help make skin and lashes healthier, but it doesn’t seem like it will have the incredible benefits Rimmel claims.

Rimmel claims that after using this mascara with its lash-growth complex you can expect lashes to appear 80% longer instantly and a whopping 117% longer and 12 times thicker in 30 days. Even if this were to make lashes grow, it would be absurd for it to work instantaneously, so you can thank old-fashioned good formulating if you feel your lashes appear 80% longer after the first use — that’s not the serum, it’s the work of the makeup.

I have my doubts about the claim that lashes will appear 117% longer and 12 times thicker after 30 days unless you suffer from androgenic alopecia. Procapil™ was formulated with the intention of combating androgenic alopecia. Ideally, it stops the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone by inhibiting 5α-reductase, but there are no independent studies to back up the Sederm’s claims.

Androgenic alopecia is much more common in men and tends to affect women more who have hormonal imbalances or those who are postmenopausal — and these women might find that this mascara benefits them (though even the hair growth studies are still only industry-sponsored and very sparse) (Genetics Home Reference). Other forms of hair loss in women have other causal factors, such as malnutrition.

It seems more likely that the ingredients that help improve the condition of the skin and help to moisturize the lashes stop them from breaking off and make them healthier overall. It’s possible that this will make lashes appear longer, thicker, and healthier, but so far there’s little proof that this will actually make eyelashes grow more. Latisse is one of the only eyelashes serums that has actually been shown to help eyelashes grow in studies.

Personal Use and Opinion

I will say that when I walked into the office after applying Rimmel Volume Accelerator Mascara, everyone commented on how long and thick my lashes looked. It’s well formulated, at the very least — making it good mascara (if not necessarily the best lash grower). I found that it didn’t clump too much and it really made my lashes look long (though not 80% longer) and thick (though not 12 times thicker). While I wouldn’t use it for a lash growth serum, I’d definitely use this again purely for the purposes of mascara.

*I want to note that I have naturally blonde eyelashes (and so they’re hard to see in photos). Keep that in mind when looking at the change in the photos below.

Bare lashes

Lashes with Rimmel Volume Accelerator Mascara

Bottom Line

Rimmel Volume Accelerator Mascara and Rimmel Lash Accelerator Mascara with Grow-Lash Complex might be good mascaras, but the science doesn’t seem to point toward their formulas being great lash growth serum. The main ingredient Procapil™ is targeted toward the factors that contribute to androgenic alopecia, so even if it is an effective ingredient for that, it will really only help women with androgenic alopecia. Otherwise, the beneficial results come from moisturizing and conditioning ingredients and a great mascara formulation.

Summertime is the best season to sample the lights and brights of the nail polish world, from electric teal to sunflower yellow. So Pixi Glow’s Pirouette Pink Nail Colour ($8) is a wonderful color for summer, just the right combination of youth, vivacity and cheekiness to be an awesome hot weather nail polish.

Pixi’s nail polish is known for not including what’s come to be called the “Toxic Trio”: Toulene, Formaldehyde, and DBP. However, these ingredients have only been shown to be toxic in very high concentrations — many ingredients, including orangic ones — are toxic in these amounts. But if you’re looking to avoid these anyway, you’re in luck, as this is a great nail polish.

What Does Benezophenone-1 Do Against UV Rays?

Benzophone-1 provides some sun protection.

Your body has its own form of UV-protection — finger and toenails. Nails are good at protecting the nail bed and fingertips from the sun’s rays, and making our hands less sensitive when using them to pick up things, scratch ourselves, put on shoes, etc. (Skin Cancer Foundation). Due to their dark pigmentation, nail polishes can protect nails from some levels of UV damage, such as brittleness or limited nail growth, though UV-resistant lotions are still a better shield in most instances.

Pixi Glow’s nail polish contains benezophenone-1, which is a popular UV stabilizer in cosmetics and nail lacquers. Benezophenone-1 works by absorbing and dispersing UV rays, which protect the color in cosmetics (CosmeticIngredients.org). However, a UV stabilizer offers less protection that lotions or creams that are specifically designed to combat sunrays, and should not be used for sole protection. For enhanced sun protection, use a moisturizer with sunscreen daily, wear gloves for a physical blocker, and visiting a dermatologist if any questionable skin lesions appear (Skin Cancer Foundation).

Color: 5/5, Pigmentation: 3/5

The bright pink color is gorgeous, but it takes multiple coats to get good pigmentation.

“Pirouette Pink” is not quite neon pink, but something of an opaque pink lemonade color. It’s very, very vibrant, even after one coat — I think you could easily spot someone from thirty yards away if they were wearing this color. The lacquer is also very glossy, so it catches surrounding light and reflects it against the nail.

This color transcends generations and eras, but I don’t see it transitioning anywhere before May or after August — it’s simply too bright and showy to coordinate with cool autumn tones or heavy winter fabrics.  Also, I’m not sure that it works well for people who have to work in formal office environments — even as a toe nail polish. It’s simply too flashy for a workplace. It’s best suited for days lounging at the pool or spending the evening with friends.

Unfortunately, I had to apply three coats of “Pirouette Pink” before I was able to get a semi-opaque color — I probably would have needed a fourth to get a solid color.  And even after three coats of evenly applying the lacquer, “Pirouette Pink” remained streaky and uneven in places.

Durability: 5/5

Pixi Glow’s nail polished dried fairly quickly — within two minutes — and it was safe to apply a second coat with 10 minutes. While I was waiting for my nails to dry, I was able to do things like type on my keyboard and rummage through a desk drawer without having my nails get smudged. Whenever I trimmed my nails where the “Pirouette Pink”, the polish did not chip or crack. I wore this polish for six days before it began to chip, which means that it is a great for people who have to work with their hands, but plain fantastic for people who don’t have to use their hands too often.

Texture: 3.5/5, Finish: 4/5

Pixi Glow’s nail polish is a tad too thick and gooey for my taste. After putting one stroke of paint onto my nail, the lacquer began to run down the sides of my nails and leak onto my skin. Once I was able to quickly brush out the paint, it applied very easily and did not become tacky. However, you need to excessively brush the paint on to ensure that it’s not too watery. When dry, the polish is very silky and smooth to the touch. The polish didn’t clump after putting on several other coats, which is good news for people like me who like to have a very deep, rich color for their nails (and who try too hard to protect against chipping). The excess paint on my fingers washed off very easily and didn’t stain.

Bottom Line

I really enjoyed using Pixi Glow’s “Pirouette Pink” Nail Colour, especially to give my outfits a splash of summer fun and whimsy.  The nail polish was a little too syrupy for even application, and it will take several coats to get a nice opaque color without any streaks. Once it is dried (no more than five minutes), the polish is very smooth and silky and it was very good at catching the light wherever I went. Pixi Glow’s nail polish lasted about six days before it began to chip, which is good news if you use your hands all day for work. In short, Pixi Glow’s Pirouette Pink is a really fun summer color to give any outfit some whimsy and vivacity but the formulation could definitely be better.

For those of us lucky to have combination skin, the looming summer temperatures leave us with one nagging question — how do I take care of my increasingly oily skin without irritating the dry spots?

The answer comes in the form of Primavera Clarifying Face Scrub ($26), a balancing scrub that promises to minimize pores while giving the user a smoother, shine-free complexion. It’s comprised mostly of plants, some of which include…

Salvia officinalis: An Anti-Inflammatory from the Kitchen 

This kitchen spice is also full of antioxidants that are great for skin.

Native to the Mediterranean region, sage is an herb found in many kitchens, my own included.  Listed as the main ingredient in the scrub, sage is often used cosmetically because of its antioxidant effects. This is because of the salvianolic acid found in sage; its intense scavenging activities allow it to target those wily free radicals, thus slowing down the effects of aging (Tetrahedron Letters).

Sage’s purported anti-inflammatory effects have also been investigated, though it’s unclear whether it acts as such in this scrub. In order for it to be considered anti-inflammatory, the content of ursolic acid must be at a certain level; with no clear way of knowing this, it’s unlikely that the scrub’s pore-minimizing benefits come from sage (Journal of Ethnopharmacology).

Simmondsia chinensis: Super Moisturizer

Jojoba oil has a long history of being used for cosmetic purposes.

More commonly known as jojoba oil, this is a liquid wax produced by the jojoba plant’s seeds. Jojoba oil is used frequently in cosmetics; it has been deemed safe for use on the skin because it is a non-irritant (International Journal of Toxicology).

The oil is used for two main purposes in the scrub. An occlusive moisturizer, the oil acts by forming a barrier on the skin, thus preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). This helps to combat those troubling dry patches of skin on your face.

Jojoba oil is also known for its strong anti-inflammatory effects on the skin, although researchers have yet to figure out the exact mechanisms behind this (Pharmacological Research).

Vitis vinifera: Full of Antioxidants

Grape seed oil has plenty of antioxidants, but its purported anti-aging benefits are questionable.

Grape seed oil is used for its antioxidant effects; it is rich in proanthocyanidins, which belong to the flavonoid family. These proanthocyanidins possess strong free radical scavenging activites; some argue that, because of this, grape seed oil is stronger antioxidant than vitamins C and E. Applied topically, grape seed oil also helps to protect against the sun (Skin Therapy Letters).

Despite its antioxidant effects, some remain skeptical of its treatment of extrinsic aging (Dermatologic Surgery).

Other Ingredients are a Mixed Bag

The product also contains aloe vera and lactic acid, both of which help to soothe and soften skin. However, limonene and chamomile are also found in the product; while commonly used in cosmetics, both can irritate skin.

Personal Use and Opinion 

The best thing about this scrub? It’s not at all harsh!

I’m always on the lookout for new exfoliators, and, truth be told, I’m very happy with this one. I’ve been using one particular scrub for quite some time, and I’ve been long overdue to switch it up.

My favorite thing about Primavera Clarifying Face Scrub — it isn’t rough! Dispensing the product onto my hand doesn’t feel like a load of wet sand; you can actually see small plant particles in the mixture, and the exfoliating crushed grape seeds are fine enough to not irritate my skin, but large enough to leave my skin feeling soft and not too tight after use.

While my skin didn’t feel as oily as normal towards the end of the day, I’m unsure if this is actually caused by the product; I couldn’t find any links between the ingredients and oil production.

Bottom Line

Primavera Clarifying Face Scrub will leave your skin softer; powerhouse jojoba oil acts as both a moisturizer and anti-inflammatory, while sage and grape seed oil provide antioxidants, helping to tighten your skin while leaving it hydrated. The product smells great, and seems appropriate for the recommended use of two to three times a week. I wouldn’t put all of my money on it leaving my skin permanently shine-free, but it’s a risk I’m willing to take for this great product.

Once in while you need something a little decadent in your beauty routine just to pamper yourself – perhaps a day at the spa or pedicures with your girlfriends. Déjà Vu Dead Sea Minerals Caribbean Mist Body Lotion ($28.34, amazon.com) utilizes frankincense, olive oil, and minerals to keep skin moisturized, supple, and soft all day long.

Frankincense: A Fragrant Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Carcinogenic

Frankincense has been used for centuries as an anti-inflammatory.

Derived from the Boswellia trees of India, Ethiopia, the Arabian Peninsula and Somalia, olibanum resin (frankincense) has been used for centuries as both as aromatic substance and anti-inflammatory agent. While numerous cures have been accredited to boswellia carterii, from anti-cancer to inhibiting brain tumors and asthma, this plant extract still remains vastly under-researched.

Boswellic acids have been linked to repairing photo-aged skin. Subjects applied a boswellic-acid containing cream on their face for thirty days. The experiment group had significantly reduced skin roughness and texture, fewer fine lines, improved elasticity, a less sebum secretion , and there were no notable adverse effects linked with using boswellia acids (Dermatologic Therapy).  Similarly, topical application of boswellia carterii reduced erythema and increased lipid and water retention in the skin on mice with UV-induced erythema, highlighting boswellia’s potential as anti-aging agent (The Korean Society of Environmental Health and Toxicology).

This extract might also be anti-inflammatory. It promotes immunomodulation, equilibrium in the immune system. It works to to inhibit Th1 cytokines and promote Th2 cytokines (Clinical and Diagnostic Laboratory Immunology). Th1 cytokines are responsible for inducing inflammation in order to fight bacteria, germs, or parasites that may enter the cells, but also responsible for autoimmune responses so that your body can fight early stages of infection or injury. Th2 cytokines are designed to counteract excessive Th1 production and inflammation, in order to avoid tissue damage (BMJ). Though most research has explored oral or in vitro (isolated from the organism) administration, boswellia carterii could prove to work as an anti-inflammatory on skin too.

Branching from its anti-inflammatory properties is boswellia carterii’s anti-carcinogenic properties. In a study by Jing et al.,  boswellia carterii  induced apoptosis (cell death) and reduced cell reproduction in leukemia cells when administered in vitro. It also was shown to promote cell differentiation, where cells become more complex and develop a specialized function (Leukemia Research). Moreover, when administered to treat cancerous bladder cells, the boswellia carterii extract proved itself to be cytotoxic (toxic and damaging) to cancer cells without damaging the surrounding healthy cells (Biomed Central). While the extract did promote cancer cell apoptosis, it did not have DNA fragmentation, which is typical in cell apoptosis, but not always need to occur for successful apoptosis (Journal of Cell Biology). Researchers have found similar results for breast cancer as well (BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine).

Beeswax Seals in the Moisture and Keeps out Free Radicals

Beeswax is known for its healing properties.

Beeswax is a great antibacterial agent, according to a 2012 study from the Archives of Biological Science. In a study against five major bacterial strains, beeswax was strong against Salmonella enterica and Staphylococcus aureus, and had weaker defenses against E. coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Listeria monocytogenes. Over a four week trial, many patients with skin fungal infections reported a significant improvement in symptoms when using a honey, olive oil, and beeswax mixture, and researchers saw reduced colonies of bacteria. The four infections investigated were tinea corporis (ringworm), tinea facialis (facial ringworm), tine cruris (jock itch) and tinea versicolor (blotchiness) (Bastyr Center).

Even better, beeswax creates a thin protective film on skin’s surface, so that it keeps the skin moisturized but creates a barrier against environmental damage and bacteria (North Carolina Cooperative Extension). In a 2003 study published in Complementary Therapies in Medicine, a mixture containing honey, beeswax and olive oil significantly increased the condition psoriasis and atopic dermatitis for patients, with itching, redness, lesion thickness, and lesion redness being the main criteria (Complementary Therapies in Medicine).

Dead Sea Minerals Awaken the Skin 

The Dea Sea is known for its special, healing properties, and this lotion makes the most of these.

True, no aquatic life can thrive in the Dead Sea, but that doesn’t mean that it can’t do wonder for your skin. The Dead Sea, which is located in Israel and Jordan, has high levels of bromide, calcium, magnesium and potassium, and (surprisingly) lower levels of sodium than are found in the world’s oceans. Magnesium salt is one of the more popular minerals to use, as it clings to molecules, strengthen the skin barrier, and encourages epidermal cell proliferation.

Proksch et al. investigated the efficacy of a magnesium chloride salt to relieve dryness and irritation in patients, and had patients submerge a limb into the Dead Sea bath for 15 minutes over the course over six weeks. Using the magnesium chloride salt significantly strengthened the skin barrier and moisturized the skin — both indicating that Dead Sea minerals may be of use in reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Magnesium chloride also demonstrated itself as an anti-inflammatory by improving skin texture and reducing redness (International Journal of Dermatology).  A black mud from the Dead was shown to be a great antimicrobial agent (International Journal of Dermatology).

Along with strengthening and moisturizing skin, Dead Sea minerals might work with other anti-aging products, or have anti-aging effects of their own. In a 1996 study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, a solution containing just 1% of Dead Seal Minerals along with commercial-grade anti-wrinkle active ingredients was 46% more successful in smoothing skin, than a solution containing only commercial-grade wrinkle-reducing ingredients.

Next time you purchase a bottle of sunscreen, check out the ingredients list — Dead Sea minerals may be there. Researchers measured skin damage from UV ray exposure using a lotion with Dead Sea minerals.  The minerals exhibited anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and even inhibited apoptosis (cell death), highlighting Dead Sea minerals as an ideal candidate to protect against excessive UV exposure. However, there is more research needed to support this finding, and it needs to be explained how much of the product’s efficacy was due to Dead Sea minerals and how much was due to the lotion’s other ingredients (Experimental Dermatology).

Personal Use and Opinion

With a pleasing floral scent and quick absorption, this is a great body lotion.

Déjà Vu Dead Sea Minerals Caribbean Mist Body Lotion was an absolute delight to use. It has a very light, summer scent that is very pretty and delicate without being so pungent that it overpowers. The cream is very light and leaves no residue on your hands, legs, or arms after application, having dried after about two minutes after I applied it. My arms and legs felt exceptionally smooth all day long, and some of the moisture stayed intact even after bathing. The only thing which I didn’t care for was the lotion’s consistency. It was very thick, so you need to rub it in much more vigorously than you would most other body lotions. Overall, this lotion was really great, and I am excited to give some of Déjà Vu’s other Dead Sea Minerals product a try.

Bottom Line

Déjà Vu Dead Sea Minerals Caribbean Mist Body Lotion offers users a really unique but effective way to keep skin hydrated and supple all day long. The ingredient list features Dead Sea Minerals, which acts as anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and moisturizing agent; beeswax is great for sealing in moisture and healing wounds; and frankincense (boswellia carterii), which is renowned for its being an anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic agent. The lotion is very delicate but locks in moisture, and has a very subtle floral scent that won’t overpower your other scents.

Having worked in the service industry for six years, I know what it’s like to have tired feet and legs; forget going out on weekends — after pulling 12-hour doubles, I usually come home on a Friday or Saturday night, legs aching, to quickly catch up on sleep, only to wake up and do it all over again. Just look at me on a Sunday night, and you can tell my legs are exhausted.

When given the opportunity to test Mama Mio’s Lucky Legs ($33, amazon.com), of course I wanted to give it a try; Lucky Legs promises to instantly revive your tired legs with a serum containing a host of ingredients, most of which claim to relax and soothe aching muscles. Add in some gold shimmer, and you’ve got a marketable product for working women everywhere.

Lavandin: Soothing but Potentially Irritating

This lavender extract has been shown to be antiseptic, but it can also be irritating.

Lavandin oil comes from a hybrid lavender species bred for its high oil yield. Unlike its relative, lavender oil, lavandin is not used in perfumes or for therapeutic purposes due to the presence of camphor, a toxic substance that can be lethal in large doses (Planta Medica).

Lucky Legs claims that lavandin is “soothing, refreshing, and mildly antiseptic,” and this isn’t far from the truth. Researches tested mice for analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects with writhing tests, finding that, of the three, the essential oil and polyphenolic fraction forms of lavandin reduced the number of abdominal constrictions more than the hydroalcoholic extract (Journal of Ethnopharmacology). However, lavandin oil can be irritating on skin when used in higher concentrations, so it’s best to stay away from it in pure form (Journal of Essential Oil Research).

Cistus Ladaniferus: Stops Spasms?

Cistus Ladaniferus might just help smooth the skin on your legs, but it won’t tone your muscles.

An evergreen shrub with fragrant flowers, Cistus ladaniferus is present in Lucky Legs for its toning and fatigue-reducing properties, although my research found almost no evidence of this. According to this patent, however, the applicants found that the labdenoic acid present in Cistus ladaniferus may speed up the production of collagen when applied topically, which could help smooth your tired legs.

What has been proven, however, are its antispasmodic properties. Rodent intestines were given an aqueous extract of Cistus ladaniferus to see if the traditional usage of treating intestinal aches was scientifically based; researchers found that the extract stopped small intestine contractions in both rabbits and rats (Fitoterapia). However, in order for this to work on legs, it would have to penetrate through several layers to get to the muscles, and that has not been tested. 

Mentha arvensis: Cooling

Menthol is good for soothing, but it can also be irritating for some people.

Known as wild mint, this well-known plant can grow in a variety of climates and has been used throughout history to treat stomach pains, gastrointestinal disorders, and topical aches.  Since it contains menthol, the plant gives off a cooling, refreshing feeling when applied topically, which helps gives users a feeling of relaxation (hello, tired legs and feet).

Mint also works as an antiseptic; when tested with 31 other essential oils using a disc diffusion assay, Mentha arvensis was one of the few to show antibacterial activity against salmonella and E. coli (Fitoterapia).

Personal Use and Opinion

I was very skeptical when first trying this product; I didn’t think there was any was this could help to make my legs feel better. I used the product for a total of three days; the first two days, I applied Mama Mio Lucky Legs on my break (after about seven hours of already being on my feet). The third day, I used the product after a work out.

I did not get consistent results with how I felt after using the product. On the first day, my feet were consistently dragging throughout my second shift; my legs did not want to move quickly, and it hurt to walk home by the time I got off of work. On the second day, however, my legs did feel rejuvenated after using the product. I worked through my shift without incident, and my legs felt ready for a run at the end of the day.

The third day also brought similar relief; while my legs don’t feel nearly as exhausted after my work out as they do after a long day at work, they still felt a little better than they normally do after exercising.

Bottom Line

The ingredients used in Mama Mio Lucky Legs promise to be anti-inflammatory and soothing; your leg muscles should feel calmer after using this product. Mint and menthol work to give you that tingly sensation after application, while lavandin, Cistus ladaniferus, yarrow, and a variety of other ingredients would ideally work to reduce swelling in your muscles, though they might not when applied topically. The one downside is that this might cause irritation. If it does, stop use immediately. This isn’t a product for the more extreme cases of exhausted legs, but if you’ve got some extra cash lying around, using this wouldn’t hurt when you need a quick pick-me-up after a work out.

As if the stress of school didn’t already wreak havoc on your skin, finals seem to amplify that. My senior year at college I had some of the worst finals assignments I’ve ever had, and it definitely showed in my skin.

Let me be a cautionary tale in saying that eating and drinking a ton of sugar — sour Skittles and Mountain Dew Throwback were my jam during that week — and not sleeping are a mix that will absolutely lead to you looking and feeling awful. By the end of the week I had sallow skin and the wild-eyed look of someone with too little sleep and too much caffeine.

And maybe you think that caring about your skin seems silly during finals, but think of it like this: Most of the things that are bad for your skin are bad for you, and most of the things that are good for your skin are good for you. It’s not just your complexion that will benefit from planning ahead to stay healthy for finals week… it might even be your grades!

Pick the Right Snacks

Well-balanced snacks can help keep your energy up and your skin clear.

Here’s a pro tip: The best answer to “What should I eat to stay alert during finals week?” is not, “ALL THE SUGAR” — and not only do I know that from personal experience, but I have science backing me up. Sugar seems to bring out the worst in skin. It contributes to acne and aging (The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, Ending Aging).

In in vitro studies and in in vivo studies on mice, researchers found that sugar decreases the activity of orexin. So what’s orexin? It’s a neuropeptide that helps to dictate how much energy you have (Neuron). Having a lot of orexin in your system increases energy output — i.e. results in your feeling more energetic. Having a decreased amount of orexin in the body results in decreased energy output, which is that sluggish, post-sugar-rush feeling you get (Wired).

While sugar and carbohydrates decrease orexin, protein has been found to cause an increase in this pep-you-up neuripeptide. So what’s a busy student to eat? The key here is balance. Try to find snacks that have a balance of carbohydrates and protein: Think of things like: an apple with peanut butter, Greek yogurt with fruit, veggies and hummus, nuts, and dried fruit, etc.

This will be particularly helpful if you’re not getting enough rest (but really, you should be getting rest).

Get Some Sleep. Seriously.

If you want to perform your best on exams and keep skin looking good, you should do more sleeping that occasionally nodding off on top of your books.

It might not be easy to tear yourself away from studying or working during finals week to snatch a few Z’s, but it could definitely be worth it for your skin and your work. Those people who don’t get enough sleep tend to have a harder time maintaining a positive mood and have a decrease in cognitive function during stress tests (International Journal of Psychophysiology). So, essentially, losing sleep makes you less effective at handling the stress of finals week, contributing to your stress.

And the stress that comes with not sleeping can really do a number on your skin. Long-term sleep deprivation seems like an obvious culprit for skin problems, but even short-term sleep deprivation can do damage. Because skipping sleep contributes to stress, short-term studies have think that the combination of behaviors (such as increased stress) that come along with missing snoozes can results in decreased barrier function along with a decrease in other functions of the skin (Medical Hypotheses).

Sleep goes in sleep cycles of 90 minutes, with the third and fourth stages being the most important for repairing tissue and releasing hormones to restore skin (National Sleep Foundation). Continually missing these cycles means your body — and skin — cannot repair themselves well, which explains why a week getting only a handful of sleep can make you feel pretty bad overall.

The best possible scenario is to have a regular waking and sleeping time that gives you an uninterrupted seven to eight hours of sleep. But if you can’t muster that, at least try to get some sleep. Sleep deprivation has been shown to impair short term memory, which means that if you cram for an exam with no sleep, you’ll remember less than if you’d taken time to slumber (Journal of Experimental Psychology).

Skip the Coffee … Unless You’re Addicted

If you’re not already addicted, it might be best to skip the coffee for finals week.

Coffee is a fickle friend.

As it turns out, coffee is has benefits and downsides for skin. While it can give you a nice antioxidant boost that has skin-saving benefits, it’s also been shown to thin the dermis, which is something that happens naturally during the aging process — not something you want to speed up (Biochimica et Biophysica Acta, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology).

But it could also affect your performance. On the one hand, coffee has been shown to improve performance in cognitive tests in several studies (Psychopharmacology, Neuropsychobiology). But a Johns-Hopkins report questions these findings, suggesting that after reviewing several studies that many of the cognitive impairments discussed are the work of caffeine withdrawal. These researchers suggest that the benefits of coffee drinking come only to those who are already addicted to caffeine, because they’re actually combating withdrawal (Psychopharmacology).

These researchers argue that abstaining from caffeine should be tested for cognitive benefits. And some researchers think the adrenal response you get from caffeine could increase anxiety, causing you to be even more stressed, bad for you and your skin. So if you’re not a regular coffee drinker already, finals might not be the best time to start. But if you’re guzzling java regularly, don’t give it up during finals — your cognitive abilities could decrease while you’re in withdrawal.

Limit Stress

I know, I know, this is almost silly in relation to finals week. But stress does awful things to your skin. When you get stressed, your skin’s endocrine system releases cortisol, and that decreases the rate of skin healing, increases inflammation, and can cause collagen to break down (Dr. Amy Wechsler). Getting stressed out regularly deprives your body of oxygen that it needs and increase skin disorders like acne, eczema, and psoriasis (Beautiful Skin).

So how can you limit stress? (Aside, of course, from having prepared all semester and not procrastinating.)

Make sure you get enough sleep, eat well, and drink plenty of water, first and foremost. But there are other things you can do. Write to do lists to keep things organized, take regular breaks, and get moving every so often — a brief walk has been shown to improve mood and reduce stress (Science Daily).

Bottom Line

If you want to be a friend to your skin — and, let’s face it, to yourself — take care of yourself during finals. Skip the sugar and look for snacks that have a balance of complex carbohydrates and protein, get plenty of rest, don’t choose that week to start your coffee addiction, and keep stress to a minimum. It’s easy to get pulled into the lure of finals week behavior — stressing out, pulling all-nighters, and subsisting on sugar and caffeine — but your skin (and possibly your grades) with thank you for abstaining.

Now through May 31, receive a free $10 Sephora gift card when you try our FutureDerm Time-Release Retinol 0.5 Treatment or our new FutureDerm CE Caffeic Serum!

Our FutureDerm Time-Release Retinol 0.5 Treatment has been getting rave reviews from bloggers, editors, and customers alike. It is a lightweight gel treatment that absorbs into the skin within less than a few seconds, but that works for up to eight hours. Studies have shown retinol at 0.5% can decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and smooth skin over time (Archives of Dermatology, 2007). For acne sufferers, retinol can help to alleviate acne (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1995), partially because it can loosen blackheads and whiteheads (Clinical Therapeutics, 1992), and partially because of increased cellular turnover.

You also want to choose retinol over retinyl palmitate; studies show retinol has higher efficacy than retinyl palmitate (Clinics in Dermatology, 2001), most likely due to the fact that retinyl palmitate is a vitamin A compound bound to a palmitic fatty acid, so it needs to be present in higher concentrations than retinol to achieve the same amount of efficacy. And, as any savvy skin care customer knows, there are few products out there with greater than 0.5% retinyl palmitate!

Our FutureDerm CE Caffeic Serum is the first brightening+tightening+softening skin care serum formulated with 16% vitamin C. It’s unprecedented, really: 16% vitamin C (8% microencapsulated L-ascorbic acid + 8% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate + orange extract) and 2% vitamin E. It glides on the skin, and also contains a touch of all-natural orange extract, for a really nice fresh scent that is non-irritating in 0.001% concentration. FutureDerm CE Caffeic Serum wears extremely well under sunscreen, BB cream, or makeup.

According to the International Journal of Therapeutics, vitamin C can stimulate collagen production, alleviate the appearance of sun spots, and brighten the skin overall.  Ours is formulated with a slightly acidic pH, so it is able to penetrate the skin, but is also non-irritating to the slow-release formulation.

So be sure you try our FutureDerm Time-Release Retinol 0.5 Treatment or our new FutureDerm CE Caffeic Serum today!

It seems everywhere we turn, there’s a new natural product that promises incredible results. We’ve said it before (and we’ll happily say it again), natural products can be great, but they’re not necessarily the best and they’re not necessarily safer than products with so-called “chemicals.”

The New-Oriental Panacea Herbal Medication Soap by Oripan ($14.99, amazon.com) is an all natural, chemical free herbal face and body bar soap. In addition to cleansing pores, it claims to assist in healing of acne, reduce itching due to eczema, psoriasis and many other skin irritations.

So does this natural bar soap hold up? Overall, I liked the ingredients, though I’m not sure how powerful they are for cleansing, and I found the powdery feeling the soap leaves behind to be a little unpleasant.

Palm Oil: Rich in Vitamin E

Palm oil is full of super beneficial antioxidant vitamin E.

Palm oil is a vegetable oil derived from the fruit Elaeis guineensis. It is a great source of vitamin E, which is known to be an antioxidant that helps protect and repair skin. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals formed by the body when oxygen is used. Free radicals are one of the culprits responsible for the cancer and the aging process. Below the epidermis is a thick layer called the dermis, it consists of a network of elastin and collagen that gives skin a smooth appearance. Over years, amount of collagen in the dermis declines and both collagen and elastin are cross-linked with other fibers giving a saggy or wrinkly appearance (Cornell Center for Materials Research: An NSF MRSEC).

Something interesting that was not noted on the packaging, palm oil may also have anti-skin tumor effects. A study examined 12-O-Tetradecanoyl-phorbol-13-acetate (TPA), an oxidant that promotes tumorigenesis (formation of tumors) and the anti-tumor effects of palm oil. The experiment examined the effects of mice treated solely with TPA and mice treated with palm oil one hour before being treated with TPA. The take home message of the study suggests pre-application of palm oil may be inhibiting early biochemical responses of tumor production (National Center for Biotechnology Information).

Propolis: Full of Benefits

Propolis is a product of bees that includes beeswax.

Propolis is made by honeybees through a combination of resin of beeswax, bark, leaves, and nectar. It is known to contain all known vitamins except vitamin K (Universidad Francisco Marroquin). Propolis is made up of over 300 constituents but only a handful of them have experimental evidence of biological activity (Apidologie).

Beeswax being one of the constituents of propolis, is especially good for dry skin. It reduces itching, due to Eczema, Psoriasis, Dermatitis and many other skin irritations. In one study on patients with eczema using a mixture of honey, olive oil, and beeswax, researchers found that 80 percent of Eczema patients showed improvements in itching, scaling and oozing, and 63 percent of participants showed significant improvements (Complementary Therapies in Medicine).

Additionally, propolis is used to heal wounds, act as an anti inflammatory, and an anti-viral. One study applied propolis to minor burns and observed the same healing effects as people treated with silver sulfadiazine, a prescribed ointment (University of Maryland Medical Center). Also, an anti-viral study concluded viral entry of HIV-1 was inhibited in CD4 lymphocytes (Journal of Ethnopharmacology).  The study focused on flavenoids, moronic acid derivatives and caffeic acid and concluded all of the listed compounds possess anti HIV-1 activity.

Jojoba Oil: Perfect for Thirsty Skin

Jojoba oil is similar to the skin’s sebum, which some believe makes it a good cleansing agent.

Jojoba Oil is also known as Simmondsia chinensis. It was mainly produced to replace sperm whale oil which has been banned since the 1970’s. The benefits on Jojoba oil are similar to sperm whale oil. Jojoba oil is easily extracted from Jojoba nuts, and its properties make it even better!  It is easily absorbed into the skin and is resistant to evaporation, which makes it ideal as a natural moisturizer to combat dry skin (Space Coast Health Institute).

Jojoba oil in this cleanser utilizes the idea of the Oil Cleansing Method. The idea behind it is that “like dissolves like,” and jojoba, which is similar to sebum found in human skin, could help to clean skin. In addition to acting as a natural moisturizer, Jojoba oil maintains the outer layer and natural oils of the skin that keeps skin hydrated (Harvard Health Publications).

Personal Use and Opinion

After Oripan sent us New-Oriental Panacea Herbal Medication Soap by Oripan and I checked out the ingredients, I was excited to try it out. The bar soap has a distinct, strong, powder floral scent and had a silky lather when a little bit of water was added. I used it as a body and facial cleanser as indicated on the box and it was smooth when applied. After rinsing, I had a chalky feel to my skin which was disappointing. I think that some people might find the chalky feeling to be rather unpleasant.

Bottom Line

All in all, New-Oriental Panacea Herbal Medication Soap by Oripan is good if you are looking for a natural bar soap with plenty of vitamin E and antioxidants. Propolis has many beneficial properties; it contains beeswax, which is known to reduce skin irritations, and flavenoids, which act as an anti microbial agent among others. New-Oriental Panacea Herbal Medication Soap by Oripan is a great mild cleanser with the addition of Jojoba oil. Overall, I liked it, but I didn’t enjoy the powdery feeling after using it.

The first time I stumbled onto a lip plumper was back in 2006. I was on a trip to New York City, and I wandered into Sephora and, along with several friends, swiped on a tester of lip gloss that promised to plump lips. We all felt the tingling sensation that lip plumpers are known for, and while it made me shy away from lip plumpers, one of my friends loved it and bought it there.

Lip plumpers have definitely changed since then, so I was interested to try a sample we received, Vivant Skincare’s Maxilip Lip Plumper ($19.95, amazon.com), a lip balm that promises to give you fuller, firmer, and smoother lips. By applying the balm three to four times daily, the user is supposed to experience a semi-permanent plumping effect.

In a 29-day study Vivant did on their lip plumper, women age 22-40 experienced a 40% increase in volume, 30% reduction of surface folds, 60% boost in hydration, and a 70% increase in protection, comfort, and softness. Unfortunately I couldn’t find the study to see how these numbers were obtained or what the parameters of the study were.

Maxilip achieves this through the use of petrolatum, palmitoyl oligopeptide, perfluorodecalin, and benzyl nicotinate. With the hopes of having Kat Dennings’ lips by the end of the day, I applied my Maxilip and kept applying it over a weekend.

Petrolatum: A Great Occlusive Moisturizer

Petroleum jelly is a classic moisturizer. But because of its occlusive nature, it can make irritating ingredients extra irritating.

Many of you should be familiar with petrolatum as a nourishing agent; most grandparents have a stockpile of Vaseline hidden somewhere in their bathrooms. Although there has been some backlash against petrolatum recently, there is a good reason why it has been trusted for decades.

Petrolatum is an occlusive moisturizer; when applied topically, this forms a protective barrier that moisturizes skin, thus preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) (Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin).  However, when paired with allergens or other harsh irritants, petrolatum traps them in its barrier, causing a longer-lasting and more intense effect on the applied area (Allergy).

Palmitoyl oligopeptide: Smoothes Skin

A peptide is a chain of amino acids, much like a protein; although there is no real distinction between the two, proteins are generally longer.

Palmitoyl oligopeptide is composed of an elastin sequence (valine-glycine-valine-alanine-proline-glycine) that stimulates the growth of fibroblasts in the human body, thus accelerating angiogenesis, a process in which new blood vessels form from already-existing blood vessels (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology). It can be used to mimic parts of extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins, activating genes important to cellular regeneration. This helps to strengthen and smooth skin cells (Cosmetics & Toiletries).

It’s also increases collagen production, and one study shows that when used twice daily over a period of six months that it’s been shown to firm skin (Dermatologic Therapy).

Perfluorodecalin and Benzyl Nicotinate: Increases Oxygen

Perfluorodecalin helps boost oxygen to your lips, which helps plump them up.

Perfluorodecalin is a fluorocarbon used to transfer oxygen more efficiently throughout the body (Biotechnology and Bioengineering), sometimes even substituting as a red blood cell (US National Library of Medicine).

Benzyl nicotinate acts in a similar way; applying it topically increases oxygen in the skin, thus increasing blood flow to the area (Journal of Biomedical Optics). This has a lasting effecting on the affected area; over a five-day period, repeated application caused baseline oxygen levels in the skin to be fifty percent higher than on the first day (The AAPS Journal).

With the two paired together in Maxilips, lips are going to be targeted with higher oxygen contents, leading to plumper lips that have a lasting effect when used regularly.

Personal Use and Opinion

I generally find the tingling sensation associated with lip plumpers a bit unpleasant, so I’ve avoided them. Maxilip Lip Plumper does tingle, but promises that tingling will decrease over time. The product smells like a mixture of Red Bull and Smarties, which wasn’t a smell I loved, but wasn’t offensive.

I applied the balm five times over the course of the day, and each application stung. I did notice, however, that each application stung marginally less than the previous one. My lips felt smooth and soft, even when drinking coffee or eating lunch wore off the balm. While I wouldn’t exactly call my lips fuller, I would say that they did look more pronounced or enhanced. I tried it over a weekend and while I personally felt it enhanced my lips, I’m not sure it was evident to those around me. This does have some effect, but it’s not huge or long-lasting (unless you continue using the lip plumper).

Bottom Line 

Vivant Skincare Maxilip Lip Plumper uses four important ingredients to give users a more defined lip; petrolatum acts as a moisturizing barrier to the lips, trapping palmitoyl oligopeptides, benzyl nicotinate, and perfluorodecalin in the area to increase collagen production and blood flow.

When the company says this provides semi-permanent results, it means that regular use increases oxygen and collagen, but that you have to continue using it for those results to stick. My lips feel as soft as silk, and look more defined than before, but perhaps not much plumper. While the smell is a little off-putting to me, I found that over the weekend it definitely kept improving my lips.

I’ve been blogging for about six years now, and in the midst of it, I’ve seen a massive flux in the way women view their skin care. No longer are we interested in blindly going to an expert, whether it be a dermatologist, scientist, or even the trusted makeup artist at the cosmetics counter. Instead, it seems cosmetic customers everywhere are interested in doing their own research and coming into the derm’s office or local Sephora fully prepared. From the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Database to beauty books like Jessica Alba’s New York Times bestseller The Honest Life, it seems women everywhere are more concerned about researching the safety and efficacy of products and ingredients for themselves.

And while the DIY approach can be lovely at times (see: Etsy), it can also be downright misleading or even dangerous without the right scientific training. Luckily, what you need to know to fully empower yourself in a world filled with seemingly well-meaning, but ultimately fear mongering natural product companies and political advocacy groups is rather simple:

1.) “If I can’t pronounce it, I shouldn’t use it on my skin.” TRUTH: There are just as many great hard-to-pronounce ingredients as easy-to-pronounce ones.

Whoever thought of this one was simultaneously a genius and, well, kind-of a dud. For three reasons:

First, every plant in existence has a common name (or several common names) and a scientific name. For instance, some companies list “green tea” on their ingredient lists. Other companies may list Camellia sinensis extract. But guess what: They’re exactly the same thing. Making the extract easy-to-pronounce for the average consumer does not change its efficacy in the least.

Second, independent, peer-reviewed scientific studies have shown some of the very best ingredients for the skin have vague, hard-to-pronounce names. Check out the following list:

• Cocamidopropyl betaine. An organic compound derived from coconut oil. Helps thicken skin care products and reduce frizz in hair care products.
• Niacinamide. \nī-ə-ˈsi-nə-ˌmīd\ A derivative of vitamin B3. Naturally found in the body as a breakdown product of niacin.
• Salicyclic acid. \sa-lə-ˈsi-lik- a-səd\ A beta hydroxy acid. Naturally found as the active component of white willow bark.

Third, without getting all Chemistry 101 on you, a basic understanding of chemistry will help ingredients lists to look less daunting or dangerous, and more familiar and safe (which the vast majority are, trust me). We often fear what we don’t understand. But knowing that a compound ending in “-ol” is an alcohol, and one ending in “-oate” is an ester, is empowering. Understanding further that a compound like cocamidopropyl betaine is a major constituent of coconut oil, or bromelain and papain are anti-inflammatory agents found naturally in pineapple, also keeps the cosmetic industry more friendly to the average consumer.

2.) If a database says an ingredient is toxic, it is. TRUTH: Not all studies claiming an ingredient is “toxic” are relevant to skin care, hair care, or cosmetics.

I have a lot of respect for what the Good Guide and Skin Deep Database are trying to do. I fully understand and support the underlying mission.

Unfortunately, it’s also confusing and fear-inducing for the average consumer. How can you trust a company you’ve been buying from for years when a team of scientists is showing you actual studies saying their products contain potential carcinogens? How can you ever think the beauty industry is anything but selfish and obtuse, putting you and your family at danger after you find resources like that?

The balanced truth here is you need to know how to read studies. Databases that “flag” studies are a fantastic idea, except they currently miss one crucial step: You need to have each study evaluated individually for its relevancy to skin care, hair care, and cosmetics. There needs to be a weighted average of studies that show how toxic an ingredient is. After all, not all studies showing an ingredient are toxic are created equal, and they should not be treated as such when being measured towards a meta-type “toxicity” score.

For instance, let’s say that I am an accomplished scientist and I want to get published in a journal. It doesn’t matter which journal – it doesn’t have to be Nature or Science - just enough to keep my quota of publishing afloat. So, I expose my experimental group of rats to 35000 times the average dose of an ingredient used in beauty products – we’ll call it ingredient A – and demonstrate the ingredient not only caused more tumors in the experimental group than the [non-treated] control group of rats, but also estrogen mimicry. Because the rats now have grown little breasts!

The issue is that this study is currently treated in databases like the Good Guide and Skin Deep Database with the same level of relevancy as studies showing small doses of true carcinogens like formaldehyde, in humans, when breathed in or ingested, are truly carcinogenic. Instead, it makes it look like ingredient A is just as toxic as formaldehyde. And that’s not correct.

So use the following three-point system when you read any study:

• Tested on subjects, not cells (in vivo, not in vitro). (+1) Guess what happens when you incubate human skin cells in 100% pure water. Just guess. You guessed it: They die! Incubated human skin cells need an environment with specific conditions in order to survive. The fact that human skin cells die when incubated in water doesn’t mean a.) you shouldn’t apply water to your skin, b.) you shouldn’t drink water, c.) water causes cellular death. So learn to separate causation from correlation. Better yet, just don’t trust any study that incubates cells in vitro as much as studies that test an ingredient in the body, or in vivo.
• Tested on humans (+1). If the study was conducted on animals, the study doesn’t get this point in my system. Some ingredients have been shown to be toxic for animals, but humans have many more genes, some which enable higher degrees of resistance to certain ingredients. What’s more, human exposures of an ingredient in experimental conditions tend to be of a much more relevant concentration than some of the doses lab rats are exposed to in quite a few studies. Which brings me to my next point:
• Ingredient is used in concentrations typical to a dose actually used (+1). If I ingest 20000 times the average dose of vitamin A, guess what. I’ll experience vitamin A toxicity! If it’s 200000 times, I’ll die! So why studies that expose rats to 20000 times the average dose of, say, parabens used the typical dose of a skin care product are used to say that parabens cause hormonal disruption is beyond me. Regardless, databases need to take into account that these types of studies do not in and of themselves suggest that parabens and other ingredients are toxic in the doses they are used in beauty products. Now, these types of studies are useful because they indicate doses that are toxic, which is relevant to the beauty industry, as well as due to the fact they show more research needs to be done to determine the smallest dose that still produces toxicity. But they do not in and of themselves demonstrate the conclusion the public is drawing, which is, “This substance is toxic! Stay away!”

Someday, I’m thinking about starting my own ingredient database that not only flags studies, but determines a weighted average safety score based on the relevancy of each flagged study to beauty products. But we’ll see. I’m actually happy if someone steals my idea – it needs to be done, and I probably am years away from producing it!

3.) “If you can’t eat it, don’t put it on your skin.” TRUTH: Some of the best ingredients for your skin can’t be ingested.

I agree that we all need to be more cognizant of what we eat. (I just read Salt, Sugar, Fat, and it terrified me. Talk about fear mongering – I don’t think I’ll ever eat anything out of a package ever again!)

But when it comes to your skin, it’s a different beast. Take, for instance, the antifungal agent ketoconazole, found in prescription Nizoral. Completely indigestible, ketoconazole is so safe, it is the #1 most-prescribed treatment for fungal infections in severely immunocompromised patients, like those with HIV or on chemotherapy. It’s that well-tolerated. So don’t believe natural products companies that try to tell you that something is not safe unless you can pronounce and/or eat it. It’s simply not true. Honestly, it’s just a sales pitch that is not backed up with actual science or medicine.

What’s more, many foods are terrible for your skin when you apply them. Lemon juice, for instance, not only makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, but it also has been shown to be a significant skin irritant in studies dating back to 1975 (Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology, 1975). Milk, while full of skin-beneficial lactic acid, also can contain growth factors that have been linked to acne vulgaris (Experimental Dermatology, 2009). And food handlers also have higher rates of contact dermatitis than the rest of the population (Contact Dermatitis, 2006).

Bottom Line

Don’t take the easy way out with your beauty products: You can’t trust companies claiming their products are “safe,” “non-toxic” and “natural” when they are telling you lies like this. If you don’t believe me, just remember prescription ketoconazole, which is both hard to ingest and inedible, yet so safe for you that doctors recommend it for those with HIV and on chemotherapy. And, by the way, a complete miracle for fungal infections.

The irony of beauty in modern society is that there are two groups: Those using only natural and organic products, fearing toxicity, and those who are into injecting even substances called “toxins” (i.e., Botulism toxin = Botox) into their skin, fearing aging. In truth, I think the best approach is more balanced: Find a trusted resource to evaluate ingredients and formulations (like FutureDerm or The Beauty Brains), analyze studies on your own for relevancy (i.e., human-based, not in animals or petri dishes, relevant dose), look for concentrated active ingredients with substantiative research behind them first – and if it contains organic plant extracts instead of non-organic, all the better. But definitely not a “must” on the latter.

What are your thoughts? I’d love to hear in Comments below!

I had a falling out with one of my close friends this week. I felt really bad about it. Still do, actually.

Sometimes, though, when these types of things happen, you start to see your part in them. You often don’t realize the things you do incorrectly while you’re still involved with someone. Yet afterwards, sometimes all of the mistakes you’ve made come rushing back: Words hastily spoken, decisions secondarily made. You start to realize how you could have been better.

So here’s 5 of the most important things I’ve learned about having – and maintaining – solid relationships. I’d love to hear yours as well in Comments!

1.) Appreciate them at face value.

One of the best quizzes I’ve ever taken is the Strengths Finder test. There are 34 different qualities that are excellent to have, which include the following:

• Achiever - People strong in the Achiever theme have a great deal of stamina and work hard. They take great satisfaction from being busy and productive.
• Belief - People strong in the Belief theme have certain core values that are unchanging. Out of these values emerges a defined purpose for their life.
• Includer - People strong in the Inclusiveness theme are accepting of others. They show awareness of those who feel left out, and make an effort to include them.
• Self-assured - People strong in the Self-assurance theme feel confident in their ability to manage their own lives. They possess an inner compass that gives them confidence that their decisions are right.

After taking the quiz, you are told just five strengths that you possess above all others. The idea is to maximize your own strengths with your choice of relationships, career, and hobbies.

I mention this in a post about friendship because we don’t always appreciate others’ strengths in our relationships. We are friends with Achievers, and we wish that they’d slow down and do some yoga with us. We meet up with a friend we haven’t seen for years, and are annoyed at how smug she, a Self-Assured, seems over everything from her home to the earrings dangling from her bit-too-large head.

Truth is, we can find fault in every strength. Not every strength is suited to every situation or where every other person is in his or her life. While it’s human nature to want to change traits we don’t like in others, we need to put a lid on our urge to change everything. Learn to appreciate friends for who and what they are. Even though we may not always agree, it’s important to be respectful of our differences.

2.) Allow people room (physically and emotionally) to change.

When people become friends, they are often similar or complementary on many levels: personality, physical attractiveness, education, career, income, etc.

But it’s not realistic to expect people not to change. What’s more, it’s unhealthy to forbid ourselves to change in order to continue to fulfill our friends’ expectations of us. Sometimes, whether it be a 30-pound weight loss, a promotion at work, or a spiritual awakening, people need to change.

When the converse happens and the changes are unhealthy – a friend starts having more unhealthful habits, becomes depressed, or is romantically involved with someone we feel is dangerous – it’s better for friendships not to judge or criticize, and certainly not to gossip, but to be there and help if necessary. As one of my favorite quotes puts it:

“I want to love you without clutching, appreciate you without judging, join you without invading, invite you without demanding, leave you without guilt, criticize you without blaming, and help you without insulting. If I can have the same from you, then we can truly meet and enrich each other.” -Virginia Satir

True friendships not only accept people in their current state (see #1), but also give people room to grow and even make mistakes along the way. Sometimes all we can provide is support and help.

3.) Have certain rules for conduct.

I’m going to go ahead and say it: We live in a rather snarky, bitchy society. People aren’t encourage to bite their tongues but to speak their truth, no matter how hurtful or offensive that may be to someone else. Comments on the Internet on some websites have turned into a person-trashing bloodbath, with the anonymity of the Internet permitting gross levels of gossip, snark, and downright nastiness.

It can be ugly out there. But that doesn’t mean you need to bring those items home. Some of the rules of conduct I’d like to start doing in my friendships:

1. Don’t gossip. Don’t talk about one friend to another, and don’t share personal business of anyone (friend or otherwise) with your friends.
2. Call or visit regularly. I love e-mail. I’m just much better at writing than I am speaking, for whatever reason. But it’s a terrible way to maintain or grow friendships.
3. Prioritize your friendships. It’s tough out there. I think mobile technology made it an expectation for us to be working or at least connected to work 24/7. But friendships need positive interaction in order to stay alive. In general, favors can be time-based (e.g., quality time, running errands, etc.), money-based (e.g., gifts, cards, etc.), or some combination therein. But no friendship will stand the test of time if you let too much time go by without doing either for a friend, and not just when s/he needs you.
4. Don’t criticize. Just because you think her career choice is wrong, her wardrobe is too flashy, etc. doesn’t mean you’re correct. Support her decisions unless asked, and then speak your opinion with the utmost tact and respect.
5. Be yourself. Sometimes we worry so much about what someone is going to think of us if we do A or say B that the opportunity is lost forever. Go ahead and ask your super-together friend for advice, or your ultra-stylish friend to take you shopping sometime. It’s better to admit your faults and be open and honest about who you are.

4.) Don’t just listen, but analyze the true meaning of what they have to say.

Most people aren’t kings or queens of deception. In fact, if you listen very closely, you can almost always tell who people are by the way they speak, not just what they say:

• Mentioning something constantly is a sign it’s important to them. It sounds trite, but we often ignore this, particularly in our romantic relationships. (“Oh, he’s just going off about ___ again.”) But ___ is probably super important to him or her if they can’t stop talking about it. So listen. And if you’re doing something wrong, do something about it.
• Pay attention to the type of words s/he uses so you know his/her true mood. If s/he often talks in superlatives, whether positive (“super, excellent, fabulous, fantastic, great”) or negative (“hopeless, fatigued, depressed, unsure, lost”), it’s indicative of his or her underlying mood. Very rarely is a superachiever at work there saying things like, “My Saturday was boring. Just laid around the house all day. Still am tired.” It would probably be more like, “I had a really exciting hike! And a fantastic dinner out.”  The truth of the matter is, it’s rare we have a fantastic or terrible weekend. But those who are upbeat remember the 50% that is fantastic, those who are down in the dumps remember the others. So use these cues to note your friend’s true mood, so you can respond accordingly.

5.) If need be, let go.

I love this quote from Buddhism: “As we relinquish our attachment to permanence, pain begins to diminish.”

This doesn’t mean we have to let the friendship die. But sometimes, sometimes we need to spend less time together. Or hang out with new friends who better support us for a while.

Life is about growing and changing. Sometimes our friendships grow and change with us, and sometimes they do not. But rather than cling to the sadness, anger, or fear involved with such a loss, it’s better to appreciate the moments in the friendship that were positive, and then move on, towards more joyous and enriching experiences.

Follow Friday

• The Beauty Brains explain if sea buckthorn is really a “miracle” for skin
• Lipstick Powder n’ Paint looks at some of the best nail polish in spring’s hot colors coral and orange
• A Touch of Blusher reviews Olay Total Effects Moisturizer + Serum Duo SPF 20
• The Non-Blonde gives tips on how to shop for vintage perfume
• Beauty Junkies Unite is doing a Neutrogena Sun Safe Giveaway

So, I was pleasant surprised when I used a solid drugstore gel liner, Maybelline Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner ($9.99, amazon.com). I can’t say that it’s the very best gel eyeliner I’ve ever used, but it’s pretty darn good, and definitely less pricey than the best I’ve ever used.

I used the brush that came in the pack for this, which is a rounded eyeliner brush; but I tend to prefer the precision of an angled eyeliner brush, so I’d probably use that for future applications.

Color: 5/5, Pigmentation: 4/5

Maybelline Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner was a really dark black, which is exactly what I wanted from a black liner with “drama” in the name. Part of that is the pigmentation, which is really good. I put on two coats in the pictures below, which is normal for me since I tend to do a pretty light coat the first time (just in case I get a little unsteady).

Durability: 4.5/5

Maybelline Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner was really durable for me. I wore it for an entire evening and my makeup looked almost exactly the way I did when I first applied it. It even held up against fixing my contacts a few times (i.e. touching my eyes) and I actually had to do more work to get it off than I do with my normal liquid liner.

Texture: 3.5/5, Finish: 4/5

So, the texture of Maybelline Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner is pretty good, but not quite as smooth as I’d like. I found that with the consistency, it was difficult not to go too light or too thick, but I managed to strike a good balance and even it out with my brush.

And I really liked the finish. It was dark and looked smooth once I was finished.

Bottom Line

I’ll definitely keep Maybelline Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner on hand for a dramatic gel look. I liked the staying power — great for a night out. It’s pretty dark, though it’s not quite as smooth a formula as I’d like. Overall, I’d say this is a pretty good gel liner, though I’d personally swap out the rounded brush for an angled on.

Happy Friday! Today I’ve finally got the bronzed smoky eye tutorial for you that I promised in my Hot for Summer – Bronzed Smoky Eye post. I used tarte and Urban Decay products for the eyes. Also, I actually hit pan on my Urban Decay Walk of Shame eyeshadow. For those of you who know me well, you know that I’m more likely to bring home a new dog than hit pan on an eyeshadow these days.

The 3 powder eyeshadows that I used are encircled in pink. The central product for this look is the tarte smoldereyes pencil in Bronze.

Before you begin, prime the eye area with eyeshadow primer. I used Too Faced Shadow Insurance today.

How to Achieve the Look
1. Apply Urban Decay Walk of Shame to the browbone, blending down and around the eye area, to make it easier to smoke things out later.
2. Apply tarte Bronze SmolderEYES to the lid and crease.
3. Soften and blend out the edges of Bronze.
4. Line and smudge the lower lash line with Bronze. Now, you can stop at this point if you wish and just add mascara.
5. Add a bit of Urban Decay Easy Baked to the inner lid, blending outwards. Use a touch of Urban Decay Beware in the outer crease.
6. Add mascara.
7. Line the lower waterline with Urban Decay Scorch. Highlight the browbone and inner corner with tarte Champagne Illuminator.

Eyes
Too Faced Shadow Insurance
Urban Decay Walk of Shame – browbone
tarte smoldereyes pencil in Bronze – lid, crease, lower lash line
Urban Decay Beware – outer upper crease
Urban Decay Easy Baked – inner lid
Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-on eyeliner pencil in Scorch – waterline
tarte Champagne Illuminator – to highlight brows and inner corners of eye
Anastasia Tinted Brow Gel in Caramel
Anastasia Lash Genius
Physicians Formula Organic Wear Mascara
Physicians Formula Fake Out Mascara

Face
tarte BB Tinted Treatment 12-Hour Primer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunscreen in Fair
tarte Amazonian Clay 12-Hour Blush in Glisten
tarte Illuminator in Champagne – highlight

Lips
Stila After Glow Lip Color in Electric Pink
Inglot gloss in 544

If you’re not a fan of the more complex Bronze smoky eye, stop at step 4. Also, people usually wear a natural or pale lip with a smoky eye, but I went with pink. Since I’m not typically a brown eyeshadow fan, I needed to have  a brighter lip for me to be happy with it.  You can see more of my tutorials at my blog.

What do you think of the Bronzed Smoky Eye for Summer? Will you give it a try?

Glimmer

Tease

Color: 3.5/5, Pigmentation: 4.5/5

Separately, I liked most of the color of CoverGirl Blast Lipstick Blendable Lip Duo, but sometimes the pairing just didn’t work for me. Perhaps its that I didn’t totally love the color blending options. Something about them just seemed a little off, the colors were a little too light and dark, or it seemed that they’d look better separately on way different skin tones in the same duo. Overall, I felt like the colors were solid enough that I’d use most of them, but every so often it seems like CoverGirl misses the mark.

The pigmentation was great. I felt like all the colors showed up well and even layered well regardless of whether I put the light on over the dark or vice versa.

Durability: 4/5

CoverGirl Blast Lipstick Blendable Lip Duo stayed on well all night through eating, drinking, and talking with few applications. It did brush off a little more than I’d like, but it also didn’t dry out a lot and I’d take a moist formula over one that doesn’t move but feels dry. Overall, it stayed on well throughout and evening.

Texture: 4/5, Finish: 4/5

The texture of CoverGirl Blast Lipstick Blendable Lip Duo was creamy, but a little moister than I’d like (i.e. it sometimes smears). But it has a nice shine and good coloring, so overall, it’s a great finish.

Nude Lips

Nude Lips

Glimmer

Glimmer Light Tone

Glimmer Dark Tone

Glimmer Light Under, Dark Over

Glimmer Dark Under, Light Over

Tease

Tease Light

Tease Dark

Tease, Light Under, Dark Over

Tease Dark Under, Light Over

Bottom Line

CoverGirl Blast Lipstick Blendable Lip Duo is a has great pigmentation, good durability, and a nice creamy finish. While I feel so-so about some of the color combinations, other are phenomenal, and, bottom line, these are really fun to use. I like that they blend easily and I think if you found the right duo they’d be great for transforming a day look into a night look. Overall I give them a 7.5 out of 10.