Company Claims

According to Algenist, the product is antioxidant-rich, with alguronic acid, vitamin E, green tea, and bearberry.  Other selling points of Algenist Ultra Lightweight SPF 50 include:

• Oil-free
• Suitable for all skin types
• Dermatologist tested
• Non-comedogenic
• Hypoallergenic
• Not tested on animals

The FutureDerm.com Analysis:  Superior Sunscreen!

Not all sunscreens are created equal! Luckily, Algenist Ultra Lightweight UV Defense SPF 50 contains zinc oxide. Whew! Image source: http://www.beyondcoastal.com/page/sun-protection

As mentioned in an earlier post, Which Is Better: Zinc or Titanium Dioxide in Sunscreen?, zinc oxide is the clear winner.  This is because zinc oxide blocks a significantly longer portion of long-range UVA rays, which are responsible for many of the visible signs of aging (Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2005).

Algenist Ultra Lightweight SPF 50 contains a whopping 17.1% zinc oxide and 2.0% titanium dioxide.  Unlike many formulas from the 1990′s or early 2000′s that contain zinc oxide that dries thick and white on the skin, Algenist Ultra Lightweight SPF 50 dries sheer.  This is mainly due to a lightweight solvent base that contains a large proportion of silicones and alcohol.  The silicones keep the formula cosmetically appealing, while the alcohol “compresses” the silicones and other ingredients together, keeping it lightweight.  [Read more:  Is Ethanol in Skin Care Products Safe?]

Alguronic Acid:  It’s Growing On Me

Not long ago, I gave Algenist a bad review. Luckily, more data has emerged, and I'm now a fan. I hope we can still be friends!

When alguronic acid first appeared on the market, I must admit, I didn’t like it much. This is mainly due to the way Algenist reported the results of their laboratory studies.  Back then, the company’s press materials cited the percentage of women who experienced any change in fine lines and wrinkles and skin laxity, rather than the percentage of change in these signs of aging.

When a company presents results like this, a product could elicit a very small effect in 95% of women, and a company could report that an impressive-sounding 95% saw results.  Not cool.  [Read more:  Algenist Review & Alguronic Acid Analysis]

However, in the past year, Algenist has employed third parties to conduct non-biased, measured studies with precise scientific instrumentation to determine the exact results of using their products.  With nothing to hide, as you can see from the photos and the data, the results are impressive. I personally liken the results to an over-the-counter retinol (0.5%) or a mild (~10%) glycolic acid solution – certainly wonderful for a new ingredient!

Alguronic acid makes a visible difference in the skin with daily use. Source: Algenist.com.

In-house laboratory tests by Algenist have shown alguronic acid-treated cells increase regeneration by 55% – higher than hyaluronic acid, retinol, vitamin C, vitamin E, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide and coenzyme Q10 (Algenist.com, 2011).  These results are in vitro, or in cell culture, and are not as valuable as results in vivo, or applied topically to living organisms.  Still, when taken with the third-party in vivo studies, these results affirm alguronic acid is a solid anti-aging ingredient, on par with a 0.5% retinol or 10% glycolic acid (in my own opinion).

Bottom Line

Algenist Ultra Lightweight SPF 50 is a solid, impressive product.  I love the fact that it contains one of the highest concentrations I’ve ever seen of zinc oxide, my favorite UVA/UVB sunscreen.  I also have warmed to alguronic acid since seeing the new clinical third-party results released by Algenist.  While it will be a few years before we know for sure if alguronic acid is indeed another retinol or glycolic acid-like skin saver, the results thus far show you can do far more good than harm for your skin by investing in Algenist Ultra Lightweight SPF 50 this summer.  I’m a huge fan!

Product Rating:  10/10  (High or optimized concentration of key ingredients: 3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology:  3/3.  Value:  3/3.  Sunscreen: 1/1).

Ingredients in Algenist Ultra Lightweight SPF 50

Cyclopentasiloxane, Water/Aqua/Eau, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Algae Exopolysaccharides, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Aluminum Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Hexylene Glycol, Fragrance (Parfum).

Other Sites and Posts You Might Enjoy

• Official Algenist website
• Spotlight On:  Bearberry
• 4 Common Beauty Products to Stop Using NOW
• Are You Aware of the Parabens You Eat?
• Is Your Dry Cleaning Habit Bad for Your Skin?

Photo source:  Maite Perroni Hair Style, a photo by Jean Nieves on Flickr.

About the author:  FutureDerm.com is proud to introduce Dr. Hanan Taha, M.D., on our staff as a Contributing Writer. Dr. Taha received her MD from Kuwait University in 2002, and a master’s degree in Dermatology from the University of Alexandria in 2010.  She also runs a blog in Arabic dedicated to spreading the knowledge about dermatology and cosmetic dermatology in a simple, concise manner (www.elbashra.com).  For her full bio, please visit our About page.

Dear FutureDerm.com,

What are some dermatologist tips for better hair?  I’ve tried everything!  Plus, I love your hair posts!

-Josie

Dear Josie,

Once the hair comes out of the scalp, it becomes dead tissue, incapable of regenerating. Any damage that occurs due to styling, heating, or coloring, is irreparable. Eventually, hair loses its shine and luster, becomes coarse, frizzy, and hard to manage. It is always best to do as little as possible to your hair, but since we all know we cannot resist all the yummy styling we can do, here are a few guidelines to help make hair a bit happier:

Washing

Looking for a new shampoo or conditioner? Dr. Taha loves Yes to Carrots!

• NO shampoo or conditioner or any kind of hair care product can give your hair a characteristic it lacks or has lost, such as increasing hair thickness or repairing split ends. The effects are always temporary and are lost with the next wash.
• Hair should be washed around 2 – 3 times a week.
• Shampoo is applied to the scalp and allowed to run down the hair. Conditioner is applied from the ends up, avoiding the scalp.
• During shampooing, massage your scalp gently, rather than rubbing vigorously, to avoid irritating the scalp, or damaging hair roots, which may attribute to hair loss.
• Avoid using water that is too hot.
• You know how everyone always says their hair always looks better the second day after being washed? The reason is that many regular shampoos strip the hair completely of its natural oils, which makes hair dull, coarse, subject to static electricity, and more difficult to style. Using a conditioner helps solve this problem. 2 in 1 shampoos are also a good option.
• Look for hair products that contain dimethicone, which has been shown to moisturize and add shine. It can be found in Yes to Carrots Pampering Conditioner ($15.98, Amazon.com)
• Remember: hair is most fragile when wet. Avoid too much manipulation until it has dried partially at least.

Drying

Use a hair dryer as soon as you're out of the shower? You might want to think again.

• It is best to pat the hair dry. Avoid excessive rubbing with the towel.
• When possible, opt for air dying rather than heat drying.
• When heat drying, start out with a lower heat setting and then go higher gradually. When hair is wet, water is actually inside the hair. If heated too quickly, water starts boiling inside the hair, leading to bubble formation and hair rupture.
• Do not sleep with your hair wet (for the same reason of hair being fragile when wet).
• Applying direct heat to the scalp can cause burns, damage hair roots, or in the least irritate the scalp enough to cause itching and flaking. Try to start about an inch away from the roots.

Brushing

When to brush after washing hair? The latest recommendation from the American Academy of Dermatology states that the timing of hair brushing depends on the type of hair:  If it is naturally straight, wait half an hour before brushing.  If it is naturally curly, brush to detangle after towel drying.

• Never brush too harshly or pull on the hair when tied or in a roller to prevent damaging the follicle which may lead to hair loss (traction alopecia).
• Contrary to a popular myth, boar bristle brushes are not better for hair. It is best to stick to the more readily available plastic brushes.
• Teasing or backcombing should be kept to a minimum as it damages the hair.
• Do not allow the comb to hit or scratch the scalp. Speaking of scratching the scalp, if it is itchy, visit the doctor, and avoid scratching, which can damage the hair and, as we mentioned in a previous article (link to bad habits article), brings on more scratching.

Cutting

Long hair is old hair, and it undergoes what is termed as “weathering”, which is basically the normal loss of cuticle, luster and shine due to being around for a long time, which means it is more subject to thinning and split ends.

• To keep hair looking healthy, it should be trimmed often: about half an inch every 2 months.
• Very short hair should be trimmed more frequently to keep the short style looking tidy (every 1 – 2 months).
• To grow hair out, trimming still has to be done, but trims should be kept further apart (every 2 -3 months).

Coloring/ Straightening/ Curling

• The more permanent the hair dye is, the more damaging it is to the hair.
• As a general rule, going darker is less damaging than going lighter.
• Hair that is dyed or bleached is fragile, dull, dry, and more easily affected by humidity. Always condition your hair to give it back some of its luster and strength and to avoid breakage.

Pamper Yourself

• Sleeping on a silk or satin pillowcase prevents hair pulling while turning your head during sleep, and can help keep a style longer as well.
• Prevent sun damage by wearing a hat or scarf, which will not only protect from sun rays but also wind and pollutants.
• Some leave in conditioners and hair sprays contain UV protection, which are a good idea in the summer time, when our hair is most exposed to the sun rays. An example is the Phyto Sun Care line or TRESemme’s Climate Control line.
• Use a hair cap in the swimming pool to protect it from the chlorinated water.

Sources

ZD. Draelos. Hair Care Illustrated: An Illustrated Dermatolgoic Handbook 2005.A Shai et al. Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care 2009.American Academy of Dermatology.

Other Posts and Sites You May Enjoy

• 5 Ingredients for Your Most Beautiful Hair
• 3 Hair Thickening Ingredients That Actually Work
• Brilliant Color and Beauty Today:  How to Shampoo the Right Way
• Does the Keratin Perfect System Work?
• Do Hair Growth Supplements Work:  Viviscal, Biotin, L-Arginine Tried and Compared

Visit FutureDerm.com on Facebook and Twitter!

An oldie but a goodie!

Hi Nicki! I was wondering if you had any thoughts on the Neutrogena Anti-Wrinkle Anti-Blemish cream ($10.39, Amazon.com). I am looking for a drugstore solution to my acne problem, while trying to fight wrinkles. I was going to add an SPF cream and a night treatment to this as well. 

-Carrie

Dear Carrie,

Thank you for your great question!  As far as drugstore remedies go, I do like Neutrogena Anti-Wrinkle Anti-Blemish Cream ($10.39, Amazon.com) for mild to moderate acne.  I do not recommend the product for those with severe or cystic acne.  These cases are best treated with prescription-grade retinoids (tretinoin) and antibiotics, and in some very severe instances, oral contraceptives (for women) and corticosteroid injections.

Here’s why I like Neutrogena Anti-Wrinkle Anti-Blemish Cream for those with mild to moderate acne:

Two forms of retinoids

Most over-the-counter retinoid creams contain retinol or retinyl palmitate.  Prescription tretinoin is about 20 times more potent than retinol.  In turn, retinol is about 10 times more potent than retinyl palmitate (Clinics in Dermatology, 2001).  This is because retinyl palmitate is retinol bound to a fatty acid, making it less concentrated and harder for the skin to derive benefit (which is done in a process called retinol esterification).

Still, even though over-the-counter retinol is 20 to 200 times less potent than prescription retinoids, dermatologists still love them.  As dermatologist Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D., director of the Baumann Cosmetic Research Institute once said of Philosophy Help Me, another over-the-counter-retinol product, “Philosophy Help Me retinol night treatment is less potent than a prescription retinoid, but can diminish fine lines just as effectively over time.”

So over-the-counter retinoids can have the wrinkle-fighting, collagen-building effects of prescription retinoids, with less potential irritation and drying.  What I love about Neutrogena Anti-Wrinkle Anti-Blemish Cream is that it contains significant amounts of both retinol and retinyl palmitate in a chemical vehicle that will deliver the ingredients into the skin effectively.

Salicyclic Acid:  Another Powerhouse Against Acne

Despite what many believe, salicyclic acid is not a beta hydroxy acid [Read:  Hydroxy Acids Part III: Common Misconceptions of Hydroxy Acids].

Yet this does not mean that salicyclic acid is not effective against acne.  Actually, quite the opposite: a study in Clinical Therapeutics has shown 2% salicyclic acid is superior to 10% benzoyl peroxide in treating acne.  

Salicyclic acid combats acne in three ways:

• 1.)  It is mildly irritating to the skin, drying out lesions.
• 2.)  It acts a mild anti-inflammatory agent.
• 3.)  It softens the keratin within the skin, accelerating cell turnover.

Salicyclic acid is safe for the skin as well, as 30% salicyclic peels were administered for 12 weeks to patients without scarring or significant side effects in a study published in Dermatologic Surgery.  After a few weeks of use, even those without acne are likely to notice that their pores may be cleaner, and therefore appear smaller.

Comparative sHowever, some skin care lines, like ProActiv Solution, target acne both ways, unlike Olay Professional ProX Clear Acne Protocol.

More about the Formulation

Check out the ingredients list:

Active ingredients:  Salicyclic acid.  Inactive ingredients:  Water, Peg-32, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Retinol, Erythorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Piper Methysticum Extract, Panthenol, Allantoin, Steareth-21, Coco-glucoside, Steareth-2, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Peg-8, Bht, Peg-8/Smdi Copolymer, Disodium Edta, Ammonium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparaben, Fragrance

Neutrogena Anti-Wrinkle Anti-Blemish Cream absorbs quickly (C12-15 alkyl benzoate, cetyl alcohol); goes on smoothly (dimethicone); moisturizes (cetyl alcohol, dimethicone); and refines and smooths skin over time (retinol, retinyl palmitate).

Bottom Line

As far as night creams go, you don’t get much better than Neutrogena Anti-Wrinkle Anti-Blemish Cream for women 30 and up with mild to moderate acne.  The price also can’t be beat!

Product Rating:  10/10 (High or optimized concentration of key ingredients:  3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology:  3/3.  Value: 3/3.  Sunscreen:  N/A – night cream).

Other Posts You May Enjoy

• The Best Sunscreens for Oily and Acne-Prone Skin
• How to Get Rid of Adult Acne:  6 Methods You Haven’t Tried
• How Hormones Affect Acne, Skin, and Aging
• Want Better, Clearer Skin?  See the Light:  The Beauty Brains and FutureDerm
• Olay ProX Professional Review

Visit FutureDerm.com on Facebook and Twitter!  Submit your question on Facebook today!

I love JASON Vitamin E Oil after a bath or shower. Yet I do not recommend it - or any other vitamin E product - to prevent scarring.

Today’s question, submitted via the FutureDerm.com Facebook page:

Dear Nicki,

I was wondering if applying vitamin E to a scar really helps it heal or not.

-Jamie

Dear Jamie,

I’m glad that you asked.

For years, doctors have been recommending vitamin E, a known blood thinner, to patients to prevent scarring.   Unfortunately, research from the journal Dermatologic Surgery shows vitamin E may actually be detrimental to the cosmetic appearance of a scar. The study notes that 90% of patients’ scars were not improved and some actually worsened with use of topical vitamin E oil.

Why the worsening in some patients?  This is mostly due to an allergic reaction known as contact dermatitis in some patients, which may exacerbate scarring.

Otherwise, for non-scarred skin, I still love vitamin E, because it has been shown to have higher antioxidant activity than ubiquinone, vitamin C, or lipoic acid.  Vitamin E also aids in sun protection when used under a sunscreen:  according to a 2001 study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, “topical vitamin E prevents oxidative stress and [...] immunosuppression elicited by UV [rays].”  Amazing!

Bottom Line

Vitamin E may not be scientifically proven to prevent scarring, but silicone sheeting is!

Save your vitamin E creams, oils, and capsules for non-injured regions!  Use silicone gel sheeting with other ointments for your scars:  according to a 2007 review in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal, silicone gel sheeting is the only form of treatment effective against raised scars.

Other Articles You May Enjoy

Other Posts You May Enjoy

• Dr. Hanan Taha, M.D.: Is Cold Cream Good for Your Face?
• Dr. Hanan Taha, M.D.:  Dark Knuckles – Causes and Fixes!
• Does Ambi Fade Cream Really Work?
• 5 Little Known Facts about Hydroquinone Everyone Needs to Know Immediately

Follow FutureDerm.com on Facebook and Twitter!

About The Author:  FutureDerm is pleased to welcome Leah Argento to our staff as a Contributing Writer. For a complete bio please visit our About page.

Problem: Women LOVE shoes but some shoes don’t love us back!  With summer approaching we will all be showing off our bare feet alot more. So how do we keep our tootsies looking great whether in strappy sandals or 5-inch heels?

Answer: A fantastic new product called Sole Goddess – Blister Protection Foot Balm. Not only is it amazingly effective, you’ll also love the packaging – it looks & works like a tube of lipstick and at .3oz it travels easily.

Here’s the amazing part: It’s not messy or greasy (and it smells great!) and will not stain your shoes. Sole Goddess creates an invisible barrier between your skin and your shoes and was created in an R&D process spanning 1.5 years.  Product creator & image consultant Danielle Lutz said “our company worked with 3 of the top labs in the country. The R&D process was completed only after we developed a formula that allowed women to walk 10 hours without a blister”.

How It Works

Inspired by sports sticks that marathon runners have used for years to prevent chafing, Sole Goddess is a proprietary formula of the finest healing ingredients (and no parabens) including allantoin, beeswax, aloe vera, and coconut oil that help stop blisters and calluses before they start.

The formula is modeled after the leading sports stick “Body Glide” that marathon runners have used religiously since 1996 to prevent blisters and chafing on long-distance runs. But, Sole Goddess’ formula was tweaked to offer a finer consistency that would not affect the fabric or material of your shoes.

No “Break-In” Process

Forget about the “break-in” process next time you purchase a new pair of shoes because Sole Goddess will decrease the friction that is chafing the skin – friction caused by shoe straps, sling backs, peep toes, flip flops, even boots and sports shoes.

So you’re probably wondering what it costs? At $18.75 it’s very affordable and easy to come by either online or in select stores. So yes, go ahead and buy those gorgeous new shoes…they won’t hurt after all!

Other Posts You May Enjoy

• Are Facials a Worthwhile Investment?
• 5 Important Reasons You Must Cleanse Your Face Morning and Night
• 4 Scientifically-Proven Ways to Extend the Life of Your Hair Color
• 3 Surprising Multi-Tasking Products:  Neosporin, Kiehl’s Lip Balm, Baby Oil!

Visit FutureDerm.com on Facebook and Twitter!

Hi! I have a question on nasolabial folds.. Are there any products that can help in making them less pronounced? Or are there any ingredients that we should look for in creams/serums etc. that can maybe help in “lifting” these folds? Thank you so much! -Francesca

Dear Francesca,

There are three “tiers” of treatment in dermatology for nasolabial folds, tiered according to price and availability.  They are:

Top Tier:  Surgical correction 

Some nasolabial folds are greatly helped by a mid-facelift, as shown here. Source: Dr. Scott Spiro.

Not surprisingly, the most long-lasting and effective treatment for nasolabial folds is plastic surgery.  The three procedures conducted most often to correct nasolabial folds are the mid-facelift, cheek implants, and nasolabial fold excision:

• If your cheeks are sagging, a mid-facelift will likely be recommended, as this procedure lifts nose-to-mouth nasolabial folds as well as drooping cheeks.
• If you would like more facial contouring, a small cheek implant often softens the upper part of the nasolabial folds, while giving more definition to the face.
• If you have severe nasolabial folds, a nasolabial fold excision may be your best bet. The nasolabial folds are literally removed from your face and the area is sutured afterwards.

Middle Tier:  Fillers and/or Botox

By far, the most common treatment for nasolabial folds is a hyaluronic acid filler.  There are three main classes:

Patient treated with a temporary hyaluronic acid filler, Juvederm, for nasolabial folds. Source: Moore Eye Clinic.

• Temporary hyaluronic acid fillers, such as Restylane, Juvéderm, and Perlane, are typically injected into the mid-to-deep layers of the skin to plump up nasolabial folds.  Results typically last 9-12 months.  While price varies by region, expect to pay upwards of $900 for this option (typically about $450 per syringe, and two will usually be needed).
• Collagen stimulators, such as Radiesse and Sculptra Aesthetic, are for patients with less severe nasolabial folds.  Think of Radiesse and Sculptra as best for gently rounding out an aging face that has been gradually losing volume for years.  Results will last 6 to 12 months, and expect to pay a bit more, upwards of $1000, for this option.
• Permanent fillers, such as Artefill, have the advantage of being, well, permanent.  In addition, Artefill in particular has been FDA approved for use in the nasolabial folds.  So why am I mentioning it last?  The truth of the matter is, it is hard to correct potential complications as a result of using Artefill, so be careful in selecting your doctor or aesthetician.  Make sure s/he has done the procedure before, particularly in the nasolabial folds, a region in which it is difficult to get the right symmetry.  Ask to see photos of befores and afters.  Another caveat:  Artefill costs over twice as much as the other options, about $2100 and over for the average.

Bottom Tier:  Retinoids and peptides, Silicones

Even if you can’t afford more than $100, don’t fret:  Scientifically-backed solutions are available in skin care products.  Granted, these products will not typically produce the same results as the surgical procedures, but they also come with a far lower price tag – and far less risk.

I'm a huge fan of Green Cream Level 9. It's really potent, so you may want to work up with lesser levels first!

Consider Retin-A or topical over-the-counter retinol creams:  According to research by Fisher et. al, retinoids are effective in preventing and treating the collagen loss caused by years of cumulative sun damage.  Fisher et. al also demonstrated that application of tretinoin (a form of retinoid found in prescription Retin-A) stops matrix metalloproteinase genes from starting their collagen-degrading activities.   So I highly recommend Retin-A.  If, however, you are interested in over-the-counter retinol treatments, I love Neutrogena Healthy Skin with <0.025% retinol, Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 or Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 with 0.5% and 1.0% retinol, respectively, and Green Cream Level 3, Green Cream Level 6, and Green Cream Level 9 with 0.3%, 0.6%, and 0.9% retinol, respectively.

You may also want to consider glycolic acid treatments in the area.  According to a 1998 study in Dermatological Surgery, glycolic acid treatments increase skin cells’ production of collagen better than other alpha hydroxy acids, including lactic acid or malic acid. However, if you’re deciding between prescription-strength retinoids and over-the-counter glycolic acid peels, you may want to choose the prescription retinoid:  According to a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study, it was found that 0.05% all-trans-retinoic acid was more effective than 10% glycolic acid (a concentration found in at-home treatments) in treating signs of aging.

Silicones make a fast mid-grade solution!

Finally, no matter what, look for skin care products that contain silicones for use in the nasolabial area.  These products temporary “fill” the area, making it look more cosmetically appealing.  I like Too Faced Cosmetic Wrinkle Injection ($26.95, Amazon.com).  Though its ingredients aren’t going to make you start producing collagen like the injectables Radiesse or Sculptra Aesthetic, the product’s high concentration of silicones will still temporarily “fill in” your wrinkles, and also provide a more firm, solid canvas on which to apply your concealer and foundation.  Always a plus!

Bottom Line

The “right” treatment for your nasolabial folds comes down to your penchant for spending money and risk-taking.  Those high in both categories are likely to get surgery, whereas those on the opposite end of the spectrum should use Retin-A, get regular glycolic acid peels, and use a cosmetic product designed to be a filler with silicones as well.

That said, most people choose the hyaluronic acid fillers right now, as these procedures have a high degree of satisfaction with a relatively low risk if you choose an experienced physician or aesthetician.

What are your thoughts on nasolabial fold treatments, and wrinkle treatments in general?  Let us know in Comments!

For the super feminine Mom who’s beauty glows from the inside out, this Floral Woody Amber scent embodies the aura of a modern woman. The bottle was inspired by the beauty and the lines of Baccarat crystal, when the atomizer is pressed, the bottle beautifully illuminates for 15 seconds.

It premiered in April 2012 at Kohl’s nationwide at $65.00 for 2.5oz/75ml  $65.00.  The body lotion is also available for $27.50.

The Notes

The fragrance breaks down as follows:

Top:    Bergamot, Mandarin, Cypress
Mid:    Orange Flower, Muguet des Bois, Cassia Flower
Base:  Sandalwood, Amber Sultan, Vanilla, Vetiver, Patchouli, Cashmere Musk

Below is a quote from Jennifer about this new fragrance:

“Glowing is such a clean fragrance. That’s what I’ve always been about. I like soapy, clean smells. This is a very woodsy scent. So it’s not exactly what I created 10 years ago — it’s the evolution of that. At the essence, it’s still natural, earthy, clean and real, but a little different side of that. It’s the woodsy side of it, which I think is kind of New York-y, darker and sexier”, Jennifer told Women’s Wear Daily.

Cheryl’s Expert Take:

The bottle itself is nice: it feels luxe, with the exception of the top, which feels a bit inexpensive in comparison to the rest of the bottle.  I am also not a fan of the gimmicky glow of the bottle when you spray it, though others may like this.

I'm not a fan of this iridescence.

The initial scent is very strong floral and powdery, but quickly dries down to a fresh clean scent. I am reminded of a walk in the springtime, with the scent of fresh cut grass and flowers beginning to bloom. It is very feminine, most definitely not a unisex fragrance at all. I think it has a youthful quality to it, though still somehow comes across as sophisticated to my nose.

After about two hours of wear, I could still easily smell the scent around me without directly sniffing the pulse points I sprayed it on, but the lingering scent was very muted and powdery and a bit soapy, but pleasant. After approximately 5 hours of wear I could barely detect the scent on myself without sniffing deeply where I had sprayed it.  So as far as staying power, it will take you to about the mid point of an average day without feeling like you need to respray.

Insider tip:  You can also make your fragrance last longer by applying a very small amount of Vaseline or unscented body lotion on your pulse points before spraying your perfume.

The scent is appropriate for day or night, and definitely for warm weather wear. I would not feel uncomfortable using this scent as an everyday signature scent both around town with the kids, or on a date with my husband and is perfectly acceptable in the office as well.

The most prevalent top note on this fragrance is Bergamot:

Effects: Refreshing and uplifting
Scent: Sweet, Spicy

The most prevalent mid note is Orange Flower:

Effects: Refreshing, Relaxing

Scent: Fresh, Citrus

The most prevalent base note is Sandalwood:

Effects: Warming, Relaxing
Scent: Woody, Sweet, Exotic

Within the base is a essential oil I was not very familiar with Vetiver:

Effects: Relaxing

Scent: Heavy, Woody, Earthy

I think this is what contributed to me saying that it reminded me of a Spring walk- the earthy woody quality of the Vetiver.

Do you note a pattern here? All of the most prevalent notes of this fragrance are refreshing, uplifting and relaxing- I definitely feel those qualities came through in the overall aroma of this wonderful scent.  Definitely worth a buy if you are looking for a fresh, modern, highly feminine fragrance!

Image source

So, dear reader, I leave you tonight with delicious images of salmon and these excellent blog posts of the week:

• Christine at 15 Minute Beauty Fanatic compares the Clarisonic, Olay, Neutrogena, and ProActiv Cleansing Brushes (really informative!)
• Elsie at A Beautiful Mess teaches you how to do a pretty cascade braid in the back of your head(I admit, I might still need some assistance, but it’s a great guide nonetheless!)
  

  Maybe I'm watching too much Game of Thrones, but I just adore this simple cascade braid. So simple and pretty. Source: A Beautiful Mess Blog

• Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D. of The Skin Guru shares her favorite Beautiful (Beauty) Gifts from Japan (Now that nearly everything in America is going natural or organic, I might have to go to Asia to get my high-tech skin care products too!)
• Moxie at Moxie Reviews shares Rockstar Teeth Whitening (Put your sunglasses on, there is a blinding difference!)

Until next week…

Love,
Nicki

1.)  Jason Wu Orchid Rain Designer Candle ($48.00, Amazon.com).   Candles can seem like generic gifts, but this one is different.  Replete with an eco-savvy twist (i.e., soy paraffin wax, recycled cotton wick), the Jason Wu Orchid Rain Designer Candle is as beautiful and modern as the woman for whom it’s purchased.  If a candle was ever be a statement piece, this one would be it.

2.)  TRIA Hair Removal Device ($395.00, Amazon.com).  One of my new favorite devices, the TRIA Hair Removal Device is the first FDA-approved device for at-home permanent hair removal.  Employing the same laser technology used in dermatologists’ offices and medical spas, just at a lower strength, use of the TRIA Hair Removal Device once per week for three months results in reduced – if not eliminated – hair growth.  If your mother is the stick-to-it type, she’ll absolutely love this.  I got my mother one for Mother’s Day, and she was beyond thrilled!

3.)  Amazon Kindle ($79.00, Amazon.com).  I’m admittedly still the old-school type who likes the look and feel of an actual book (I’m a sucker for typefont, what can I say!), but I’ve started to transition to the Kindle.  I like it just because I can purchase 2-3 bestsellers for the cost of one hardcover, and I still have change left over to buy my favorites when they come out in softcover form.  For this price – the lowest I’ve seen – it’s definitely worth a shot, especially if your Mom reads as much as mine does!

4.)  Sterling silver heart pendant with birthstones ($39.95, Amazon.com).  This sterling silver charm comes with 12 birthstones.  You can display up to 5 inside, representing your the birth month of your mother, father, siblings, and other loved ones.  It’s a heartfelt personalized gift (no pun intended), and I think many mothers would appreciate this as a gesture if not as a pretty piece of jewelry.

5.)  ELAYDA Continuous Results skin care system ($129.99, Amazon.com).  Normally I am against giving skin care as a gift, because it is difficult to determine the right products for someone’s skin type or ailments.  Yet the ELAYDA system is great because it contains retinol, a universal anti-ager, and does so in a step-wise system that gradually increases as the recipient uses the products.  Many of my readers have had great results from the system, and while I have yet to try it, the ingredients suggest to me these comments are fully justified!

6.)  SPA Finder Gift Card ($50.00, Amazon.com).  Gift cards can at times seem a bit flippant or inconsiderate: “I didn’t take the time to pick out a gift for you, so I got you this,” especially if the gift card is for a store or service the recipient doesn’t particularly like.  But a spa gift card can only say, “You deserve to be pampered.”  It’s definitely a quick gift that practically gets an automatic seal of approval!

7.)  My Mom, Style Icon ($12.89, Amazon.com).  Considering the fact that you’re reading a beauty blog right now, and they say “The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree,” your Mom will enjoy this hardcover book featuring over 200 color photographs of stylish mothers through decades of American culture.  It’s definitely a fun read.  P.S. – Don’t forget to inscribe it!  Love, Nicki  :-)

Over the past two weeks, we’ve elucidated the differences between various classes of hydroxy acids (HAs) and established their mechanisms of action. But we have yet to explain and rationalize away some of the misplaced stereotypes of HAs and their entailing effects. A clear understanding of these misconceptions is crucial when finding and recommending products for yourself and others.

Misconception #1: Salicylic Acid (SA) is a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA).

Obagi Clenziderm Cleanser contains 2% salicyclic acid.

I’m sure many of you have noticed in Parts I and II, that I made a distinction between SA and BHAs. Like I said in Part I, SA is characterized by its functional groups being attached to an aromatic benzene ring, rather than a linear carbon chain like those seen in BHAs. This means that SA is not only structurally different from BHAs, but also physiologically so.

But how did this misconception arise? Most likely, SA was marketed as a BHA when actual BHA products were introduced to the industry, in order to establish a sense of validity. After all, most people wouldn’t recognize the subtle technicalities of chemical nomenclature. In this case, the confusion revolves around the fact that the carbons of aromatic (think cyclic) compounds like SA are given Arabic numerals, rather than the Greek letters given to those of non-aromatic (think linear) compounds like BHAs.

These days, while SA being categorized as a BHA is a misnomer, the misconception is so widespread that even dermatologists refer to SA as a BHA. For them, it’s SA’s many therapeutic benefits that are important, rather than semantic “correctness.”

Misconception #2: Only the concentration of an HA product matters.

While it’s easy to oversimplify skin care products and say that an 8% HA cream is more potent than a 10% HA one, several other factors contribute to the efficacy of an HA product: the pKa of the acid, the pH of the vehicle, and the vehicle itself.

Don't be scared off by the math: John explains it here.

pKa is the acid dissociation constant (Ka) on a logarithmic scale. Ka is a number that indicates the strength of an acid in solution (vehicle), which is determined by how much an acid dissociates. This further indicates how much of the free and salt forms of the acid develop. Only the free form of the acid causes exfoliation and is physiologically significant. Note that pKa is used in place of Ka because the latter cannot be easily compared to the pH of a solution. But pKa in itself is meaningless without Ka.

The pH of a solution goes hand-in-hand with the pKa of an acid, because the pH of a solution is irrelevant without knowledge of the pKa of the acid present. Keeping in mind that only the free form of the acid is active, here’s how pH and pKa interact:

• When the pH = pKa, that signifies that equal amounts of the free and salt forms of the acid are present in solution (50/50).
• When the pH > pKa, that signifies that more of the salt form, and less of the free form of the acid are present in solution.
• When the pH < pKa, that signifies that less of the salt form, and more of the free form of the acid are present in solution.

Depending on what you’re looking for in an HA product, one of these scenarios may be more desirable than another.

Finally, the characteristics of a vehicle are the most difficult to enumerate and measure because so many factors contribute to how well they work with any given HA. Generally, the best rule of thumb to remember when determining efficacy is that the less viscous a vehicle is, the more effective the HA will be and vice versa: the more viscous a vehicle is, the less effective the HA will be. Therefore, liquid and gel HA products tend to be more potent than lotion or cream ones.

Misconception #3: All HAs make the skin more sensitive to UV light and consequently, to carcinogenesis.  

This idea comes from the logic that, because HAs induce exfoliation and thin the stratum corneum, they will allow UVR to penetrate more deeply, given that there will be less layers of dead cells to halt that UVR. Unfortunately, like most things, it is more complicated than that.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), particularly glycolic acid (GA) (being the smallest and therefore, most deeply penetrating HA), have been shown to indirectly photosensitize the skin and make it more prone to pigmentation (1). However, the thinning of the stratum corneum cannot completely account for the reasons behind such photosensitization. In fact, studies reveal that it’s more about the fact that GA smoothes the skin, which alters its ability to scatter and absorb UVR (2), rather than stratum corneum thickness.

That same study (2), which used cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs), erythema, and sunburn cells (keratinocytes that have undergone apoptosis) as biomarkers for UVR-induced damage, also tested SA in addition to GA. It found that SA does not photosensitize the skin. In fact, both the vehicle and salicylic acid groups resulted in LOWER amounts of CPDs than the untreated group, which suggest that SA may actually have photoprotective characteristics. Several others studies also suggest this concept. However, the exact mechanism isn’t fully understood. Some studies indicate that it’s because SA, being a salicylate, may act as a sunscreen via direct UVR absorption (3). Remember that several commonly used chemical sunscreens like homosalate, are actually part of the salicylate family of compounds. Other studies indicate that the anti-inflammatory properties of SA via inhibition of the mitogen activated protein-kinases (MAPK) cascade and that of the cyclooxygenase pathway, allow less erythema (a biomarker of UVR-induced damage) to present itself (4).

Ultimately, AHAs do slightly make the skin more sensitive, while SA does not; it may even be photoprotective. But does that mean that over time, AHAs like GA promote carcinogenesis, and SA does the opposite? Fortunately, a study that involved a 10% GA solution, with a pH of 3.5 applied for 40 weeks, did not show any elevation in the photocarcinogenesis induced by UVR (5). So really, the photosensitizing effects of AHAs are very, VERY slight. But regardless, you should be wearing sunscreen anyways! That same study (5), also suggested a photoprotective effect of topically-applied SA, which follows the trend we saw with the other studies. Granted 4% of SA was used in the study, which is higher than what’s typically seen in OTC products. But still, it’s a positive indication.

With all of that in mind, perhaps it’s clearer now why I recommend people to use SA products during the day, and AHA ones at nighttime.

I hope you all learned something from this! Stay tuned for Part IV, which will include product recommendations for all four different HAs mentioned in Part II. Speaking of which, LHA and Gluconolactone being relatively new, don’t have much research pertaining to interactions with UVR. All the more reason for them to be further studied! Don’t forget to enter my brush giveaway, which closes in less than a week (http://thetriplehelixliaison.wordpress.com/2012/05/07/win-an-assortment-of-brushes-v-0-02/)!

Links/References:

(1)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10906645

(2)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2791365/

(3)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1676212

(4)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12106797

(5)   http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/ntp/htdocs/LT_rpts/tr524.pdf

Other Posts You Might Enjoy:

• Hydroxy Acids Part I:  What are Hydroxy Acids?
• Hydroxy Acids Part II:  The Differences Between Glycolic Acid, Salicyclic Acid, Lipohydroxy Acid and Glucolactone
• The 12 Most Shocking Facts about Skin Care in 2012
  
• The 5 Most Common Skin Care Mistakes Even Experts Make
  
• Do Skin Care Supplements Really Work?
• What Helps the Skin More: Eating or Topically Applying a Key Ingredient?
• Is Ethanol in Skin Care Safe?
  

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