It’s no secret that I love, love, love most NEOVA products. The real secret with this one? The high concentration of glycolic acid. The most common of all the alpha hydroxy acids, glycolic acid in concentrations of at least 10% advances exfoliation of the top layer of the skin. As a result, glycolic acid peels smooth the skin, quicken the rate of cell turnover (which is reduced by up to 7% every ten years), decrease small wrinkles and increase the fibroblast proliferation of collagen.
What to Expect
At rates of 15%, it takes at least four peels for for noticeable improvement of photodamage, solar lentigos, and melasma to occur (Baumann). You may also not expect the complete reversal of moderate to severe wrinkling or scarring (Baumann). That said, NEOVA Serious Gly-Peel Peel-Off Masque is an absolutely genius product for those with mild to moderate wrinkling, age spots, and/or issues with skin dullness. Use it once or twice a week for no longer than 10-15 minutes to reveal bright, glowing skin. (That sounds really marketing-rich, but it works.)
Wait a minute — Retinoids and Glycolic Acid?!
Psst, one final note: I know serious FutureDerm users are like, “Why is she recommending a product with glycolic acid and retinoids?” Well, folks, the retinyl palmitate is so weak, it doesn’t matter. Retinyl palmitate is about one-twentieth the strength of retinol (Clinics in Dermatology, 2001), so it is really the glycolic acid we are concerned with keeping at the right pH, not activating the retinyl palmitate to retinoic acid.
NEOVA Serious Gly-Peel Peel-Off Masque is a fantastic product for treating fine lines, wrinkles, mottled or rough skin, and sun-damaged skin (though you do NOT want to apply it directly to sunburned skin!). It dries quickly and feels amazing, leaving skin with a glow. Use it once or twice in a week, then follow up with a normal cleansing, toning, and moisturizing regimen. (Ignore retinoids or other AHA treatments on the same night to avoid deactivation or irritation, respectively).
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Polyvinyl Alcohol, SD Alcohol 40-B, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Triethanolamine, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Phospholipids, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Allantoin, Sodium PCA, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Menthol, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Polysorbate 20, Propylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.