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10 Ways BuzzFeed Is Wrong About “10 Common Beauty Products You Shouldn’t Be Putting On Your Skin”

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Since starting at FutureDerm, I find the amount of misinformation I run across mindboggling. You know how they say that ignorance is bliss? Well, it can also be loud and attract stellar web traffic. That is to say, that I’m not particularly shocked when I run across articles like this one from BuzzFeed: “10 Common Beauty Products You Shouldn’t Be Putting On Your Skin,” and I look even though I know I shouldn’t. Much like I ruin good news stories for myself by looking at the comments section, I also couldn’t resist checking out this article, even though I knew it wasn’t going to be pretty.

And it most certainly wasn’t. But this article was a breaking point for me. It was like all the little facts that I’d seen misinterpreted, misrepresented, and generally just missing the point all compiled into one gigantic list. Sure, I’m positive there were people who read it and knew immediately that it was a little… factually inaccurate. But I’m also positive that it scared the bejesus out of a good number of people — particularly because it seemed to link to some pretty impressive studies.

So, I decided to write a response that really looked into these facts to give you the details on what’s true and what’s not. Generally speaking, I really like BuzzFeed, and I don’t anticipate that every article is going to be perfection. However, this article was so fear mongering and full of inaccuracy I felt like someone should be there to pat your head and reassure that you haven’t been dousing yourself in bottles of arsenic and formaldehyde for the last several years, thinking that it was making you pretty instead. So, here’s the lowdown:

1. The Dangers of Permanent and Semi-Permanent Hair Dye

BuzzFeed Says: Several studies have linked longtime hair dye use to bladder cancer, non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma, and multiple myeloma. Researchers found that rodents that were fed these compounds from coal-tar in certain hair dyes were more likely to develop cancer than rodents that were not fed these compounds. […] Scary Scientific Fact: Aside from cancer scares, you could build up a tolerance to the chemicals and eventually suffer from a scary allergic reaction, even if you’ve been using the same product for years. Just do a little Google image search of “hair dye allergies.” Shudder…

FutureDerm Says: Paraphenylenediamine (PPD), the main ingredient in hair dye, is a commonly used chemical that’s also found in photo developer, printing ink, and black rubber (DermNet NZ). It creates color in hair as it oxidizes and typically has a brownish hue, which is why it’s typically used in darker dyes. Lighter dyes typically involve less PPD or bleach.

It’s possible to have a severe allergic reaction to hair dye, which is why it’s crucial to patch test 24-hours beforehand to ensure that you won’t react while you’ve covered your entire scalp with dye (Contact Dermatitis). However, an analysis of two meta analysis looking at potential links between hair dye and bladder cancer found that there does not appear to be a causal relationship between hair dye and bladder cancer (Cancer Causes Control). As for non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma (NHL) and multiple myeloma, researchers doing a population-based, case-controlled study in Italy found that there was “no association between ever using hair dyes and the risk of hematolymphopoietic malignancies” and just a slightly elevated risk for follicular NHL and leukemia for users of permanent black hair dye (Archives of Environmental and Occupationa Health).

I wasn’t able to find the mice study referenced that showed an increase in cancer, but I was able to find one that found the opposite. In a study where mice were fed PPD and researchers performed bioassays, there was “no convincing evidence that dietary administration of p-phenylenediamine dihydrochloride was carcinogenic in Fischer 344 rats or B6C3F1 mice” (National Toxicology Program).

Where BuzzFeed Got it Wrong: This is a prime example of fear mongering. It’s true that hair dye can cause severe contact dermatitis and allergic reaction that can be fatal for some, but that’s why we always advise patch testing, even if you’ve used hair dye before. And it’s perfectly reasonable to avoid something if you’re afraid of a negative reaction, but this won’t be problematic for everyone. It’s also true that researchers have looked into links between hair dyes and certain illnesses, but as the old adage dictates, “Correlation is not causation.”

[Read More: Are Bleaching and Dying Ingredients Safe?]

2. The Dangers of Henna Hair Dye

What BuzzFeed Says: Despite the “all natural” ingredients, there are almost always metallic salts used as pigmentation lurking in any henna dye that claims to dye your hair any color other than “reddish.” These dyes are known as compound henna hair products, and many of the boxes don’t even list metallic salts as an ingredient … Scary Scientific Fact: If you’ve dyed your hair with a compound henna hair product, you should wait at least a year or two before re-dyeing with any kind of chemical hair dye containing hydrogen peroxide. According to HennaForHair.com, your hair “may turn frog butt green or offshore sewage outlet black.” The chemical reaction could also cause your hair to SMOKE and emit a foul odor.

What FutureDerm Says: Henna’s active ingredient “lawsone,” aka 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthaquinone can build up on hair over time, making it impossible to condition. It also results in the buildup of toxic products in hair that cause oxidative damage and eventually lead to hair breakage (Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry). Finally, and worst of all, lawsone can cause a life-threatening hemolysis in patients with a condition known as glucose-6-dehydrogenase deficiency, though it hasn’t been found to be otherwise genotoxic (Archives of Diseases in Childhood).

Where BuzzFeed Got it Wrong: You shouldn’t be using henna on your hair. Period. Regardless of whether or not it comes with metallic salts, the lawsone — it’s active ingredient — can cause damage to hair and, worse, cause potentially life-threatening illnesses for those with glucose-6-dehydrogenase. So, don’t use it.

[Read More: The Dark, Scary Truth About Henna]

3. The Dangers of Aluminum Powder in Eye Shadow and Eyeliner

What BuzzFeed Says: It’s found in popular products like Nars eyeshadow, Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On eye pencil, and Yves Saint Laurent’s Everlong waterproof mascara. According to the Environmental Working Group, aluminum powder allegedly shows strong linkage to neurotoxicity and cancer. However, the FDA has deemed it safe as an ingredient in cosmetics … Scary Fact: During the filming of the Wizard of Oz, Buddy Ebsen, who played the Tin Man, reportedly suffered a reaction to the aluminum powder makeup he wore. The powder had coated his lungs, and nine days later, Ebsen was hospitalized in critical condition and left the project.

What FutureDerm Says: There is evidence of neurotoxicity in humans who are exposed to aluminum. The most prevalent information on aluminum toxicity is from oral consumption and exposure from hemodialysis therapy, where neurological effects have been witnessed. There’s also been some information regarding inhalation, which is considered particularly dangerous, in those who work with aluminum powder. Topical (dermal) exposure has more limited research, and only certain types of aluminum have been found to cause rashes upon topical application in people (i.e. aluminum chloride in ethanol or alum). In animal studies, topically applied aluminum chloride or aluminum nitrate has caused skin damage, but aluminum sulfate, aluminum hydroxide, aluminum acetate, and aluminum chlorhydrate have not (Aluminum: Relevance to Public Health).

Where BuzzFeed Got it Wrong: There are numerous kinds of aluminum compounds and several ways something can enter the body. So, to say that aluminum in general is dangerous without specifying which kinds only causes unnecessary fear. Finally, the method of delivery is important — inhaling aluminum powder, for example, has been shown thus far to be more dangerous than applying it topically.

4. The Dangers of Vitamin A in Sunscreen

What BuzzFeed Says: Government data shows that an ingredient called retinyl palmitate, or vitamin A palmitate (used in over half of sunscreens available on the market) causes cancer on skin exposed to sunlight. Retinol (an animal form of vitamin A) is specifically used in night creams because it should never be applied during the day.* … Another popular sunscreen ingredient, oxybenzone, is believed to be linked to allergies, hormone disruption, and cell damage. Scary Scientific Fact: Lab animals covered in a retinol-laced skin cream and exposed to just nine minutes of sunlight every day for a year developed tumors and lesions up to 21% sooner than animals coated in vitamin A-free block.**

What FutureDerm Says: It might appear that retinyl palmitate or vitamin A is dangerous in sunscreen because of a few facts, but the picture looks a lot difference in context. It’s true that vitamin A increases photosensitivity in skin, which is why it’s often recommended at night (IJERPH). It’s also true that vitamin A can breakdown in sunlight (UVA and UVB rays) and creates reactive oxygen species in the skin (Vitamins & Hormones). And it’s also true that studies show that the cream speeds up the growth of tumors in mice by 21%, but that doesn’t mean the effects are the same in humans. But all this doesn’t mean that vitamin A in sunscreen is bad or dangerous.

First, the study was done on mice, which are very sensitive to UV rays without retinyl palmitate, so they should be taken with a grain of salt, particularly since we have no human studies. Second, the study referenced looks only at retinyl palmitate, not the complex network of antioxidants involved in sunscreen and skin. As dermatologist Steven Q. Wang, MD, FAAD, director of dermatologic surgery at Memorial-Sloan Kettering Cancer Center in New York explains, “Despite the concerns raised by these non-human studies, retinyl palmitate operates within the skin as only one component of a complex antioxidant network … For example, when a sunscreen with retinyl palmitate is applied to the skin, a number of antioxidants work together to alleviate the risk of free radical formation seen in these in vitro experiments” (American Academy of Dermatology).

Where BuzzFeed Got it Wrong: The biggest problem with this one is that BuzzFeed, once again, fuels fear unnecessarily and without doing the proper research. All of the studies and facts mentioned are technically true, but they paint a much different picture in context. According to Dr. Wang (and a thorough examination of all of the research), there is currently no compelling evidence to suggest that vitamin A causes cancer in humans when formulated in sunscreen.

[Read More: Retinyl Palmitate is Safe in Sunscreen Now?!]

5. The Dangers of Nail Polish

What BuzzFeed Says: You’re probably aware of the toxicity of nail polish by the fumes, the flammability, and the fact that you should always apply nail polish in a well-ventilated area. The three offending chemicals are: dibutyl phthalate (DBP), toluene, and formaldehyde. Despite the fact that many big-name nail polishes have agreed to remove the “Toxic Three,” tests show that a majority of them still contain the dangerous chemicals.

What FutureDerm Says: One of the issues with talking about “harmful” ingredients is that concentrations are important. For example, toluene is consider toxic in large concentrations, but so is the ingredient often used as its substitute, butyl acetate, and both are rated as only “slightly hazardous” in case of skin contact (Toluene MSDS, Butyl Acetate MSDS). And the “formaldehyde-free” is a tricky label — that’s because nail polish contains formalin, not formaldehyde (Professional Beauty Association; East Carolina University).

Here’s the thing, formaldehyde is a gas and it doesn’t really dissolve very well in water. So, to say that formalin is just dissolved formaldehyde is incorrect. It’s really dissolved methylene glycol that contains a very small proportion of formaldehyde, 0.0466% to be exact (Personal Care Truth). The FDA has established that 5% is the maximum safe amount of formalin, and most companies use between 0.5 and 2%. As for the film-forming resins that involve formaldehyde in their creation process, typically the formaldehyde gets consumed in the reaction, meaning there are only trace amounts in the final products.

Where BuzzFeed Got it Wrong: It’s easy to get caught up in thinking something is unsafe because a study where it’s used sometimes several thousand times in excess of what is found in products showed an ingredient caused issues, that it’s problematic in small amounts. But many much-loved and perfectly safe ingredients are irritating and can even be toxic in large amounts.

6. The Dangers of Perfumes

What BuzzFeed Says: The average mainstream perfume product might contain up to 14 secret ingredients, but due to a loophole in the Federal Fair Packaging and Labeling Act of 1973, perfume brands are not required to list them. Some common perfume ingredients are chemicals that have been associated with hormone disruption and allergic reactions. Many of these chemicals have also not been tested for safety … Scary Fact: Secondhand scent might be considered the next secondhand smoke. Smelly people who apply too much cologne or perfume can trigger asthma, migraines, and nausea in those with chemical sensitivities. Some lawmakers and employers are even considering perfume bans.

What FutureDerm Says: I’m having trouble finding the complete study that BuzzFeed references and the Environmental Working Group (EWG) performed, as opposed to articles about it on the EWG’s website, which is a huge problem for a variety of reasons. The irony of this is that the group talks about “secret chemicals” that companies aren’t naming without naming them. That the EWG would accuse someone of lacing transparency, and then turn around and shout “secret chemicals” while being equally as uninformative is, frankly, mindboggling to scientists. Vague references to “solvents” and ingredients “derived from petrolatum” (which also isn’t harmful, by the way) don’t count.

Nonetheless, the oversight from the FDA into the cosmetics industry has been troublesome for quite some time, and many feel that it could use reform. Because companies aren’t required to list fragrances, they often choose not to, which is problematic. That said, the only study I could find in full referred to perfume containing phthalates and synthetic chemicals while being labeled as “natural” (Environmental Health Perspectives).

So, let’s discuss phthalates, because there is reason to feel somewhat uncomfortable using products containing them. Studies have been pretty inconclusive overall. On the one hand, researchers found a correlation between the amount of phthalates in women’s urine and reproductive problems in their young sons (CBS News). On the other hand, study results have been inconclusive on the effects of different kinds of phthalates in adult men and their semen quality (Dioxins and Health). Still, endocrine disruptors in small amounts can have cumulative, adverse “cocktails effects” (Maturitas), so it might be advisable to skip out on phthalate-containing fragrances.

Where BuzzFeed Got it WrongAllow me to start by saying that this isn’t entirely off-base. That said, the information is questionable and difficult to fact check by virtue of omission. Look, for the most part, I hate fragrances. They usually give me a horrific migraine and I don’t think a ban sounds so bad. That said, to scare people with imprecise information and vague language is, in my opinion, a very wrong thing to do. Without being transparent about the particular ingredients – and fragrances are not – it’s difficult to gauge how serious of an issue this is. If, say, certain ingredients had hormone-disrupting effects when eaten in huge quantities by mice, then it’s unfair to say that a minute amount on your skin is dangerous without the proper studies done. Nonetheless, particularly if you’re pregnant, you might want to eschew perfumes for a while until we have a better grasp on the effects of certain ingredients on your health.

7. The Dangers of Brazilian Blowouts and Straighteners

What BuzzFeed Says: Even if a label claims a keratin product is “formaldehyde-free,” many keratin-based hair straighteners were actually found to still contain substantial amounts of the cancer-causing chemical. Also, if formaldehyde is sprayed into the eyes, it can cause blindness. The FDA has only recently claimed that Brazilian blowouts can be dangerous, and has issued a warning rather than declaring a recall … Scary Story: “Salon workers and consumers have reported a number of injuries to the FDA due to use of the products, including eye and nervous system disorders, respiratory tract problems, chest pain, vomiting, and rash,” according to WebMD.

What FutureDerm Says: Ah, back to formaldehyde. Except that like the nail polish conundrum, we’re not actually talking about formaldehyde, we’re talking about formalin. Unfortunately, there has, for quite some time, been a big misunderstanding about formalin and formaldehyde. When reports like Oregon OSHA and others claim that these products have 10% formaldehyde, they’re measuring methylene glycol and formaldehyde as the same thing. In reality, “10% formaldehyde” is actually 9.96% Methylene Glycol and 0.04% Formaldehyde, according to Doug Shoon, whose spent 20 years researching the safety of formalin in personal care and cosmetic products (Personal Care Truth).

Where BuzzFeed Got it Wrong: It’s a sad truth that misconceptions about formaldehyde and formalin have been causing consumers fears for a long time, and it can take some digging to find the right information. Unfortunately, BuzzFeed got caught up in the same misinformation that many, many sources have been using for a while.

8. The Dangers of “Natural” Products that Still Contain Harmful Ingredients

What BuzzFeed Says: Always check the ingredients list and don’t be fooled. Burt’s Bees baby lotion contains phenoxyethanol. A bottle of anything by Kiehl’s could contain phenoxyethanol, parabens, PEGs, chlorphenesin (a neurotoxin that is restricted in Japan), triethanolamine, sulfates, and oxybenzone. Body Shop’s ingredient lists commonly include artificial fragrances and parabens. Tom’s Of Maine “Wicked Fresh!” mouthwash contains zinc chloride, which was recently classified as a possible carcinogen and corrosive chemical. If you’re nursing or pregnant, you especially want to watch out for these offending ingredients … Sad But True Fact: Many of the “natural” and “eco” products sold in drugstores or at your local Sephora are owned by giant companies like Colgate, L’Oréal, and Estée Lauder. These are the same companies that put lead in their lipsticks and triclosan in their toothpaste (which has been known to alter hormone regulation in animal studies).

What FutureDerm Says: Where to begin… If you’ve read our site before, you know that we warn that you should be cautious with all products, even (and perhaps particularly) natural ones. But the issue isn’t that natural product companies are trying to trick you by putting in “dangerous” chemicals. Let’s look at phenoxyethanol and parabens, the two preservatives that BuzzFeed mentions. Preservatives are important and choosing good ones is important. The alternatives are bacteria- and germ-laced products that can do a heck of a lot of damage.

I believe that parabens are safe based on the studies I’ve read about, such as this one which found that parabens do not accumulate in the body after 36 hours, meaning that they shouldn’t pose a risk for a lifetime product user (Cosmetic Design). That’s among a variety of others that you can read about in our article on parabens. But let’s say, for the sake of argument, that you’ve chosen to avoid parabens. Well, then you’re going to need a preservative that can stand up against the variety of germs and bacteria lurking everywhere. Enter: Phenoxyethanol. Sure, if you eat a lot of it, the results could be deadly, but it’s safe in the proportions used in skin care formulations, which go on skin — not in your stomach. When applied topically, it does have a fast rate of metabolism in the skin, but it has a lower (<1%) absorption rate and even a study on newborns show that it had no measurable damage (The Journal of Hospital Infection). Basically, it causes little damage and is an excellent alterative to parabens, though it might be less effective against certain forms of fungi.

Finally, what’s wrong with being owned by a large company? Companies are acquired all the time. It’s a fact. And having a large company like Estée Lauder and L’Oréal behind you doesn’t mean that you suddenly become Scrooge McCarcinogens in formulation. In fact, it could be better for companies because it means that they have more access to research laboratories and can make you better and perhaps safer products.

The real problem in natural products are ingredients that are “natural” but are also highly irritating. Limonene and other citrus extracts, for example, can be irritating and sensitizing to skin, causing damage.

Where BuzzFeed Got it Wrong: BuzzFeed has the admittedly popular bias that “natural” is synonymous for “better” with this one. In any variety of products — natural or not — there are ingredients that one should consider avoiding. But this section makes people fearful of things like good preservatives, which keep you from some seriously bad bacteria and fungi, instead of discussing the real issues, which are that natural products can contain sensitizers, allergens, and even natural carcinogens and irritants.

9. The Dangers of Mineral Makeup

What BuzzFeed Says: Iron oxides and other mineral pigments, although natural, are often found in association with toxic metals like lead, arsenic, mercury, antimony, and selenium. When the FDA found lead in over 400 lipsticks, the common ingredients were mineral pigments. According to a Canadian study, “all mineral makeups tested had nickel, 96% had lead, 90% beryllium and the average mineral makeup tested had four of eight heavy metals.” In the U.S., your typical mineral powder foundation could contain iron oxides, which contains lead “at levels acceptable to the FDA.” Individual exposures to these metals in small amounts are unlikely to cause harm, but they can allegedly build up in the body over time and can increase risk for a variety of health problems … Interesting Fact: “The Government of Canada has implemented numerous measures to reduce the amount of heavy metals to which Canadians are exposed, including prohibiting their use in cosmetics. Lead, arsenic, cadmium, mercury, antimony and chromium are heavy metal ingredients prohibited in cosmetics sold in Canada.” 

What FutureDerm Says: I’m not entirely sure why BuzzFeed chose to target mineral makeup here, but I’m assuming that this information is vaguely referring to bismuth oxychloride, which is actually a byproduct of lead ore processing and is, interestingly, the only heavy metal that’s non-toxic (USGS). Because it has a lovely luster, it often gets used to create the color in cosmetics. But, if I may, this isn’t to say that other heavy metals in cosmetics aren’t a problem, it’s just that the problem isn’t merely relegated to mineral makeup. The sad truth is that a number of products that aren’t labeled as mineral makeup still contain heavy metals. This is a particularly big problem in lipsticks, which have been found to contain lead, cadmium, and other heavy metals. But this shouldn’t cause you to panic; it’s more an illustration about why increased oversight in cosmetics production is so crucial (Environmental Health Perspectives).

Where BuzzFeed Got it Wrong: This is an interesting mix of downplaying and trying to terrify people. On the one hand, the stats are from a small study (49 women), so while it’s eye-opening, it should be regarded with caution. On the other hand, the writer titled it “mineral” makeup, which implies that this isn’t a problem with makeup across the board.

[Read More: Should You Be Worried About Cadmium In Your Lipstick?]

10. The Dangers of Antiperspirants

What BuzzFeed Says: Research has shown that high doses of the same aluminium salts used in antiperspirants have had devastatingly detrimental effects in mice, including ovarian lesions and reproductive failure, according to this study. There is also a possible link between aluminum and breast cancer, because deodorant is applied so closely to the outer-upper quadrant of the breast, where tumors are likely to appear. Breast tissue biopsies showed a “statistically higher concentration of aluminum in the outer as compared with the inner region of the breast.” And it’s not just aluminum that could have carcinogenic effects — most anti-perspirants also contain phthalates and parabens, both of which are banned in other countries … Scary Scientific Fact: If you shave your armpits (increasing the chance of nicks and skin breakage) AND use anti-perspirant, you could be at higher risk. 

What FutureDerm Says: Ok, so what is aluminum doing in your antiperspirant in the first place? It’s actually the active ingredient in antiperspirants that “plugs” up your armpits and stops you from sweating there (but don’t worry, there are plenty of other places on your body for that sweat to get out). So, it’s true that there has been aluminum found near breast tissue on the outer part of the breast, but that doesn’t mean that aluminum causes breast cancer. In fact, in a five year study following 813 aluminum antiperspirant users and 793 non-users, researchers found that there was no significant difference in the occurrence of breast cancer between the two groups (Journal of the National Cancer Institute). There are still questions about aluminum usage, of course, as studies like this one show that women with benign but common cystic breast disease have more aluminum in their breast fluids (Journal of Applied Toxicology). However, medical researchers also know there is endogenous, or natural, production of aluminum, parabens, and other chemicals within the body. It is possible accumulation of chemicals in the tissue is from (gasp) your own body producing these chemicals. The bottom line is that we need to do more research, but in the meantime, it would be helpful to get accurate information on the studies we’re finding and what they mean.

Where BuzzFeed Got it Wrong: This article unnecessarily terrifies readers by skewing the information a little. Sure, many of these facts are true (in context) and, sure, aluminum has some questions surrounding it; but the truth is that cramming facts together to make it seem like one thing is the cause of another is not the same thing as scientific evidence that one is the cause of another. This is misleading and, rather than presenting unbiased facts, clearly favors the idea that aluminum causes breast cancer — a suggestion that is not supported by definitive data.

[Read More: Are There Any Antiperspirants That Stop Sweat Without Aluminum]

Bottom Line

BuzzFeed is still one of our favorite websites here at FutureDerm, but this article got a lot wrong when it came to “10 Common Beauty Products You Shouldn’t Be Putting On Your Skin.” Instead of informing with scientific research, it went straight to fear mongering. There are definitely ingredients that should be avoided, such as henna in your hair, cadmium in your lipstick, and phthalates that may or may not be in fragrances (since fragrances don’t have to list ingredients, it’s tough to know). But, the truth is, ingredients like the PPD in hair dye, retinyl palmitate in sunscreen, and parabens in all types of products are shown in a comprehensive analysis of all relevant research studies to be perfectly safe, and, in some cases, beneficial. It’s so important to find information that’s informative, unbiased, and scientifically accurate, rather than from sources that promote fear and inaccuracy. What do you think of all this? Let us know in the comment section below!

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