Photo from Temptalia.com
I will admit, I am not much of a trendy person — I tend to stick to the classics (think fitted tops and high heels). But, on location for Total Beauty at NYC Fashion Week 2008, I learned a few things. And I stopped by Sephora at 597 Fifth Avenue in NYC, where, in addition to great service, I learned what is flying off the shelves during Fashion Week from skin care expert Nadia:
1. Kinerase anything. According to Nadia, “Kinerase flies off our shelves – it’s our top seller.” And it’s no wonder: In a 2004 review by HA Epstein, a summary of similar studies comparing patients’ opinions about Renova to Kinerase found that a patient self-assessment of “good to excellent” improvement in signs of photoaging (skin roughness, mottling, and fine wrinkling) was more than doubled for Kinerase in each category when compared with a cream containing Renova, a prescription 0.02% tretinoin (retinoid) cream. However, while 0.1% kinetin in Kinerase may be more effective than 0.02% tretinoin (Renova), it should not be considered more effective than 0.04% or 0.1% tretinoin (Retin-A). For more on the active ingredient in Kinerase, kinetin (and a cheaper source from Almay), click here.
2. N.V. Perricone Advanced Face Firming Activator ($120.00, Amazon.com). Contains a high concentration of the AHA glycolic acid, along with alpha lipoic acid and DMAE to increase firmness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles somewhat. It has been found to have a firming efficacy similar to Retin-A, for a similar cost per package and no prescription. For a full review, please click here.
3. N.V. Perricone Advanced Eye Area Therapy ($95.00, Amazon.com). Contains GABA, an inhibitory neurotransmitter, which may temporarily inhibit nerves and reduce the appearance of wrinkles when applied topically, but not nearly as well or for anywhere near as long as BotoxTM. In addition, GABA may act as a topical inhibitor for some women but not for others, based on reviews of other products with GABA, like Freeze 24/7 Anti-Wrinkle Cream. Also contains two network antioxidants, alpha lipoic acid and vitamin C ester. While vitamin K and retinol together improve the appearance of dark circles, this product only contains vitamin K. Of all the best-selling products during Fashion Week in NYC, this is probably my least favorite.
4. Caudalie Vino Perfect Day Perfecting Cream SPF 15 ($68.00, Sephora.com). According to a 2002 study in Nutraceuticals and Food, the Viniferine ingredient in this product does inhibit tyrosinase activity, which will help hyperpigmentation (i.e., dark spots, discolorations, pregnancy mask, age spots, etc.) It also contains sunscreen for the delicate eye area, which I absolutely love. Unfortunately, Viniferine (a stilbenoid/plant extract) has not been compared in any peer-reviewed scientific studies with proven lightening agents like hydroquinone. Still, for women who are concerned about use of hydroquinone, this might make a possible alternative, as will a number of other treatments.
5. MD Skincare Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel ($75.00 for 30-day supply, Sephora.com). Excellent choice, NYC! This two-step peel contains ingredients like salicyclic acid, glycolic acid, green tea, retinol, and soy extract to cleanse and refine the skin on your face (and hands). One caveat: both glycolic acid and retinol make your skin more susceptible to sun damage, so be sure to use the product at night and follow up with a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB in the morning!