1.) Signal peptides
Signal peptides are designed to stimulate collagen synthesis, increase elastin and help the skin look firmer and younger. Most peptides fall into this category — think copper peptides, Matrixyl, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide-7, etc. You can find signal peptides in nearly all peptide-containing products, including drugstore-grade Olay Regenerist, as well as more sophisticated products like Osmotics Blue Copper 5 PRIME Perfecting Serum, Lumixyl, etc.
2.) Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides
Enzyme inhibitor peptides are designed to work, at least in part, like retinoids. Retinoids prevent the degradation of collagen in part by inhibiting enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases, which inhibit collagen. Peptides that are enzyme inhibitors include Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 (source), which is found in Osmotics Blue Copper 5 PRIME Perfecting Serum.
3.) Neurotransmitter Peptides
Neurotransmitter peptides are designed to inhibit acetylcholine release, which reduces muscle contraction. Designed exclusively to treat expression lines, neurotransmitter peptides include argireline, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-28 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 in Revision Skincare Revox-7, and the XEP-30 in ERASA XEP-30 Extreme Lifting and Rejuvenation Concentrate.
4.) Carrier Peptides
Carrier peptides can be thought of as delivery molecules. They were designed to deliver trace elements for wound healing, but have since been used to transport molecules for anti-aging delivery. Think the X-50 Myocept in ERASA XEP-30 Extreme Lifting and Rejuvenation Concentrate, or the copper peptides in Osmotics Cosmeceuticals Blue Copper 5 PRIME for Face.
As I’m getting older, I find that expression lines on my forehead and around my eyes are increasingly more of a concern. (And by that I mean, as soon as I notice one starts to form, I declare all-out war and am going after them like crazy!) With that said, I do prefer to use peptides from multiple classes so that I am getting the effects of potential collagen-stimulating and collagen-degrading enzyme inhibition (for the future), wrinkle freezing (for now), and enhanced delivery systems with peptides (for now and into the future). If you’re serious about trying peptides and determining how well they work for you, I recommend Osmotics Cosmeceuticals Blue Copper 5 PRIME for Face, as well as ERASA XEP-30 Extreme Lifting and Rejuvenation Concentrate. They are both appropriate for women in their 30’s and older who are noticing fine lines, wrinkles, and/or sagging skin at increasing rates and want to give real peptides a fair shot. You’ll notice subtle effects that are definitely there from either serum.