It’s that time of the year again — the sun comes out, the hats go on, and so do the layers of sunscreen! Since my inbox has been inundated with questions from readers wanting to know which sunscreen, when, if, and how to layer formulas, here goes:
1.) If you have to choose, UVA rating is more important than UVB, every time.
A simple way to remember the difference is: UVA = UV-Aging, whereas UVB = UV-Burning. In truth, both contribute to aging and burning, but the burning effects of UVB rays are seen much sooner than UVA rays (Cosmetic Dermatology, 2009), so this acronym works.
UVA rays are longer and have been found to play a role in skin cancer, solar elastosis, and premature signs of skin aging (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1995; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 1995).
The truth of the matter is, we are exposed to only UVA while we are indoors, and 20 times more UVA than UVB if we are outdoors (Methods in Enzymology, 2000).
Despite this, SPF largely measures protection from UVB and not UVA exposure! You have to look for the “stars” to indicate UVA rating. I only buy formulas that have a four or five star rating when one is available.
2.) Zinc oxide always beats titanium oxide.
It is a little-known fact that zinc oxide is better than titanium oxide. This is because zinc oxide blocks a significantly longer portion of UVA rays (Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2005).
That said, the best sunscreens with zinc oxide have the ingredient micronized. Some scientists argue that micronized is bad because small oxides can get into your skin and cause oxidation, yet the vast majority argue that the benefit of a micronized zinc oxide in preventing UV damage is greater than the risk of oxide-induced oxidation. What’s more, very precise studies [with electron microscopy] have shown only very minimal levels of micronized oxides penetrate the uppermost layer of the skin (Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2007).
Besides, let’s face it – many men and women still don’t want to walk around with telltale white sunscreen on their faces all day! The cosmetic advantage afforded by micronizing oxides is magnificent – no telltale white streaks, fast absorption, easy make-up application afterwards.
3.) I always layer chemical sunscreen under physical sunscreen.
When I have the time, that is. When I have the time, I apply a chemical sunscreen first. I wait for 30 minutes. The reason? Chemical sunscreen ingredients like oxybenzone, avobenzone, Mexoryl SX, and Mexoryl SL take about 30 minutes to absorb into the skin properly. Once absorbed, the chemical sunscreen ingredients will transform the majority of UV light that hits the skin into non-damaging forms of energy — heat or non-UV light. It sounds like some pretty cool science fiction work, but it’s true — that’s how it works!
On the other hand, it’s best if as little UV light hits your skin as possible in the first place. So I love, love, love to apply physical sunscreens like zinc or titanium oxide OVER TOP of the chemical sunscreens once the chemical sunscreens have been given at least 30 minutes to dry. The zinc or titanium oxide acts as a shield that blocks the majority of UV light from hitting your skin, so I’m a huge fan of using both formulas!
4.) Get some natural sunscreen protection with pomegranate supplements.
Many companies try to sell skin care supplements, but most of them are kablooey. Truth be told, if I were to ever manufacture and sell my own skin care supplement, it would be pomegranate extract with a high standardized value of active ellagic acid in it. In studies mentioned below, pomegranate has been found to lighten and brighten the skin, and to prevent UV damage and skin darkening. Ever since I started taking it in the summer months, I swear I get fewer sunspots, and my friends who have taken it report fewer burns!
As for the studies: In one double-blind, placebo-controlled 2006 study in the Journal of Nutritional Science and Vitaminology, it was found that 100-200 mg/day of ellagic acid (a component of pomegranate extract) has an inhibitory effect on a slight pigmentation in the human skin caused by UV irradiation. The effect was found to be dose-dependent, as 100 mg/day resulted in an average 1.35% decrease in luminance to UV-exposed skin, and 200 mg/day resulted in a 1.73% decrease.
A 2005 study in the Journal of Bioscience, Biotechnology and Biochemistry with some of the same authors found that the skin-whitening effect when orally ingesting pomegranate extract as 90% ellagic acid was similar to when ingesting vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid. Pomegranate extract had the additional effect of reducing the number of DOPA-positive melanocytes in the epidermis of UV-irradiated guinea pigs. The results of the Bioscience, Biotechnology and Biochemistry study suggest that the skin-whitening effect of PE was probably due to inhibition of the proliferation of melanin (skin pigment) synthesis by tyrosinase (enzyme necessary for skin pigment production) in melanocytes (skin pigment-producing cells).
5.) Don’t forget about windows!
While window glass protects you from short UVB rays, 62.8% of long UVA rays get through, according to the American Cancer Society and the Skin Care Foundation. (So maybe you don’t want that nice corner office with all the windows!)
You’re also not safe with standard window tint. Ordinary window tint only blocks 3.8% of UV rays (sunaware.org). However, gray tinting will block 99.1% of UV rays. Just make sure to get your car professionally done to comply with state laws about window tinting (sunaware.org). I actually purchased a car that had gray-tinted windows, and I was sooo happy I didn’t have to get them tinted myself (both because of the expense and because I didn’t want to have the awkward conversation where I confess to my husband I’m paranoid about sun exposure!) I can honestly tell you it’s this huge sigh of relief!
Bottom Line
For most people, slathering on sunscreen once or twice a year at the beach seems to suffice. But for skin care fanatics, you MUST know that it is VERY important to wear UVA protection year-round (including indoors and in the car), and to choose zinc oxide. And if you want to go the extra mile about it the way I do, then I highly recommend taking a pomegranate supplement, having your car windows GRAY tinted, and layering a chemical sunscreen under a physical one!