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An Apple a Day Keeps the Derm Away…For Longer?

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That’s what the latest research from two companies, Skinceuticals and L’Oreal, seems to suggest.  The two companies actually reportedly came together for the development of Skinceuticals Phloretin CF, featuring new ingredient phloretin, an antioxidant compound that is naturally found in the flesh and skin of apples.   Preliminary research demonstrates that it is basically a super antioxidant that not only fights free radicals, but also protects against DNA damage and penetrates well into the skin.  According to Dr. Brenton B. Koch, M.D. in his blog, “This powerhouse formulation divides and conquers when it comes to damage at every level. Phloretin CF protects against not only free radicals, but the range of other reactive molecules known to cause damage and DNA mutations among integral cell types.  In addition, it corrects existing damage by stimulating the synthesis of essential proteins and fibers and accelerating cell turnover.”  Additional research in The Journal of Biological Chemistry shows that phloretin is an inhibitor of sugar transport amongst red blood cells, which holds some level of promise as to the role phloretin may play in AGE (Advanced Glycation Product) formation and the subsequent hardening of the skin’s collagen.  Research cited on the popular site TruthInAging.com also adds that the combination of vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin found in Skinceuticals Phloretin CF has been found to provide significant protection against erythema (skin reddening), the production of thymine dimers (the most common DNA damage caused by UV radiation), the production of p53 (a protein induced when the DNA is damaged by UV radiation), and decreased levels of MMP-9 (an enzyme that attacks collagen in the skin).

On the other hand, Lancome (owned by L’Oreal) is taking a new stand with its own new Absolue Precious Cells ($145.00 for 1.7 oz., Lancome.com) skin care line.  Using apple lysate extract to protect against UV damage, Absolue Precious Cells also adds in the company’s patented Pro-XylaneTM (the company’s name for xylose, a sugar molecule derived from the beech wood plant).  Unlike other skin care ingredients, Pro-XylaneTM has been reported by researchers at L’Oreal to stimulate the skin to produce more glycoaminoglycans (GAGs), water-binding polysaccharides found primarily in the dermis (deeper layer) of the skin.  GAGs are believed to be important in skin aging because not only do they bind up to 1000 times their volume in water (giving skin a youthful, plush, moisturized appearance), but GAGs also may decrease naturally with age.  (This is still being debated – some studies, such as that by Pearce et. al, have conversely found no change in the amount of GAGs with aging).  At any rate, stimulating aged skin to mimic younger skin with the production of GAGs is a novel and promising  advancement, as Dr. Debra Jaliman states in the October 2007 Allure magazine: “The research is amazing. It proves that these products produce long-term results by boosting the skin’s production of GAGs, which are crucial in fighting aging.”  The other products in the line include the Absolue Precious Cells Advanced Regenerating and Replenishing Night Cream, suggested to be $165, while the eye contour cream retails at €79 for 15ml.

As such, apples may have some promise when it comes to your skin.  Of course, since apple extracts do not yet have the research backing of, say, other potent antioxidants, retinoids or sunscreen, I may wait for a bit before incorporating these products into my skin care routine.  After all, research has demonstrated that eating a healthy natural ingredient may be more beneficial than topically applying it to the skin.  With that said, I’m off to Whole Foods to get me some apples!  Product Rating:  Skinceuticals Phloretin CF:  7.5/10 (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 1.5/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).   Loreal Absolue Cells Day Moisturizer: 7/10 (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 2.5/3.  Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 1.5/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).

 

Image source (Flickr):  APPLE & ICE Originally uploaded by D`ART

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