#1.) FutureDerm Time-Release Retinol 0.5
Of course it’s my favorite — I formulated it (together with cosmetic chemists!) FutureDerm Time-Release Retinol 0.5 is an exclusive serum designed to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, skin roughness, and other signs of aging with regular use over time. It contains 0.5% microencapsulated retinol, designed for state-of-the-art 8 hour release.
Ingredients in FutureDerm Time-Release Retinol 0.5: 0.5%
Retinol, Aqua, Glycerin (hydrator), Alcohol (thins the solution), Octyldodecanol (emulsifier), Butylene Glycol (thins the solution), cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (emulsifier), Allyl Metacrylates Crosspolymer (film-forming agent), Polysorbate 20 (emulsifier), Salix Alba Bark Extract (anti-inflammatory, antioxidant), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract (anti-inflammatory), BHT (antioxidant), Tocopherol (antioxidant), PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (emollient), Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (thickening agent), Triethanolamine (pH adjuster), Propylene Glycol (thins the solution), Diazolidinyl Urea (antimicrobial preservative), Propylparaben (antimicrobial preservative), Methylparaben (antimicrobial preservative).
#2.) [easyazon_link identifier=”B002VJSGO0″ locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM[/easyazon_link]
Let me give this to you straight: If you use a drugstore level retinol, your retinol is likely to be found in concentrations of 0.025% or less. If you use other brands (including my own), you’re probably getting 0.5-1.0% retinol. Hardly anyone sells more than that — retinol can tear sensitive skin apart, so unless it’s microencapsulated, you’re asking for trouble with 1.5% retinol.
And then Peter Thomas Roth comes out with 1.5% microencapsulated retinol in [easyazon_link identifier=”B002VJSGO0″ locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM[/easyazon_link]. Not only is this serum a good idea, it’s a freaking fantastic good idea.
It is microencapsulated, so it is more gentle than other non-microencapsulated retinol serums, and it definitely makes your skin look smoother after just a few uses. After 6-8 weeks, I think that it helps to improve the appearance of sunspots and other skin imperfections as well.
Why is it ranked #2 then? One simple reason: It has an open top. Yes, the retinol is microencapsulated, so it’s less bothered by light, heat, and air than if it weren’t microencapsulated, but why take the chance? (Why PTR, why?!) Full review
Ingredients in [easyazon_link identifier=”B002VJSGO0″ locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM[/easyazon_link]: Cyclopentasiloxane, Squalane, Retinol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Water (Aqua), Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Lechitin, Bisabolol, Alcohol.
#3.) [easyazon_link identifier=”B00M71EXRG” locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]philosophy Miracle Worker® Miraculous Anti-Aging Retinoid Pads and Miracle Worker® Miraculous Anti-Aging Retinoid Solution[/easyazon_link]
Although philosophy cleverly calls its HPR retinoid “High Performance Retinoid,” this is also a dupe for its scientific name, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
As an ester, HPR simply has works in the skin for longer periods of time than retinol. It remains to be seen if they penetrate the skin as deeply as retinol, however. (With a larger chemical structure than retinoids, I would love to see a study on this). That said, it does something: HPR has recently been found to be a suitable way to stave off acne (source), and it has been found to be an effective depigmenting treatment for melasma (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2014).
So why is this serum #3 in my all-time ranking of best retinol serums, without a concentration of HPR mentioned, a microencapsulation system, or even what I consider to be a well-researched form of retinol? Simple. It works. This solution is amazing. I don’t use it as directed — I pour a little on a pad and tightly reseal the container after each use, instead of pouring the bottle all over all of the pads at one time — but it works wonders. I don’t know if it’s that my skin has seen retinoids since I was a teenager or that I am just applying such a strong dose, but it has left me getting carded (and getting hit on by grad students) in my early thirties. Booyah.
#4.) [easyazon_link identifier=”B006LYO4A6″ locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]Dr. Brandt Resurfacing Serum[/easyazon_link]
Nope, no fancy form of retinol like philosophy Miracle Worker® Miraculous Anti-AgingRetinoid Pads. Nope, no microencapsulation like FutureDerm Time-Release Retinol 0.5 or Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM.
So what does[easyazon_link identifier=”B006LYO4A6″ locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]Dr. Brandt Resurfacing Serum[/easyazon_link] have? More retinol than any other producton the U.S. market, I’m glad to report.
[easyazon_link identifier=”B006LYO4A6″ locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]Dr. Brandt Resurfacing Serum[/easyazon_link] is the most concentrated retinol product I know of sold in the United States, with about 1.9% of the powerhouse ingredient.
I’ve used this serum before. It works. It’s not an ester and it’s not microencapsulated, so it’s not great for sensitive skin types. But it is sensational for resistant skin, or skin that has grown resilient and unresponsive to lower concentrations of retinoids. And with the pump-based packaging, you don’t have to worry about light, heat, or air hitting it, either.
Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Isoamyl Laurate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Shea Butter Esters, Triheptanoin, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Behenyl Alcohol, Methylpropanediol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Retinol, Glyceryl Stearate, Simmonsia Chenesis (Jojoba) Oil, Xanthan Gum, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Citrus Nobilis Oil, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic /Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, Glycine Soya Sterols, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Maslinic Acid, Phenylpropanol, Bht, Sodium Phytate, Dimethiconol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Honey, Pectin, Phospholipids, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Heliantus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Glycine Soya Oil.
#5.) Paula’s Choice Resist 1% Retinol Booster
I didn’t grow up flush with money. In fact, sometimes it was hard to make ends meet. I can admit that now.
So I’m not recommending [easyazon_link identifier=”B013TKZRV4″ locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]Paula’s Choice Resist 1% Retinol Booster[/easyazon_link] because it has the most retinol (it doesn’t — Dr. Brandt Resurfacing Serum has 1.9%). I’m not recommending[easyazon_link identifier=”B013TKZRV4″ locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]Paula’s Choice Resist 1% Retinol Booster[/easyazon_link] because it has a microencapsulated technology (it doesn’t). And I’m not recommending Paula’s Choice Resist 1% Retinol Booster because it has a unique or newfangled form of retinol (it doesn’t).
I’m rounding out my top 5 with [easyazon_link identifier=”B013TKZRV4″ locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]Paula’s Choice Resist 1% Retinol Booster[/easyazon_link] because it’s more affordable than the other options. Paula Begoun has done what few other skincare entrepreneurs have done and made a profitable, sustainable business with skincare that is reasonably priced. And while I don’t want to speculate on why here (that’s for my business blog), I will say this — If I was going to recommend a quality, effective skincare regimen for $100 or under, this would be a part of it. #truth
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Glycereth-7 Triacetate (emollient/texture-enhancing), Glycerin (hydration/skin replenishing), Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes (emollient/skin-soothing), Isopentyldiol (penetration enhancer), Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate (texture-enhancing), Butylene Glycol (hydration/penetration enhancing), Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract (apple extract/antioxidant), Polysorbate 20 (texture-enhancing), Retinol (skin-restoring), Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract (licorice extract/skin-soothing), Ceramide 3 (hydration/skin replenishing), Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (skin-restoring), Avena Sativa Kernel Extract (oat extract/skin-soothing), Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (fireweed extract/skin-soothing), Arctium Lappa Root Extract (burdock root extract/skin-soothing), Salix Alba Bark Extract (willow bark extract/skin-soothing), Allantoin (skin-soothing), Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (skin-soothing), Caprylyl Glycol (emollient), Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (texture-enhancing), Dipentaerythrityl Tri-Polyhydroxystearate (texture-enhancing/emollient), Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene (texture-enhancing), Hydrogenated Lecithin (skin-restoring), Bis-Glyceryl Ascorbate (antioxidant), Disodium EDTA (stabilizer), Sorbic Acid (preservative), Xanthan Gum (texture-enhancing), Phenoxyethanol (preservative).
Got a product type you want to see on our Top 5 list? Let me know in Comments, or write to me at nicki[at]futurederm[dot]com!