I remember the first time I heard of someone using Preparation H to get rid of her under eye bags. It was the movie Miss Congeniality, and as Sandra Bullock’s character was getting ready before the Miss America Pageant, Michael Caine applied some Preparation H under her eyes to rid her of the visible lack of sleep from last night’s FBI training (I know this sounds ridiculous out of context, so here’s the synopsis). Afterwards, I looked over at my mom and said, “Really?”
Those pesky bags under your eyes don’t go away easily, and it’s quite tempting to desperately use something you might already have in your medicine cabinet for those mornings that your eyes really need a pick-me-up. But is Preparation H really the answer? Read on to find out more.
Ingredients: Occlusives, a Vasoconstrictor, and Not Much Else
First, let’s take a look into what goes into your standard tube of Preparation H ointment. Its first active ingredients are mineral oil (14%) and petrolatum (74.9%), both of which act as “protectants.” But what does that mean?
Both mineral oil and petrolatum are occlusive agents, which means each will form a protective layer over the skin to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (Cosmetic Dermatology). Mineral oil is a colorless, odorless derivative of petroleum, and has been shown to prevent water loss better than a solution with 15% linoleic acid, a fatty acid known for its emollient properties (Contact Dermatitis). Some might have some hesitations over mineral oil’s comodogenity, but rest assured. According to Rebecca Gadberry, chairman and co-CEO of YG Laboratories, cosmetic-grade mineral oil falls somewhere between the 1 or 2 level (on a scale of 0 to 5) of comodogenity. But as far as pharmaceutical-grade mineral oil goes, it falls between a 0 or 1, although there’s no way to tell which grade is used without speaking directly to a spokesperson. Of course, it’s still an occlusive agent (as is petrolatum), so it will easily trap any other sort of ingredient – whether it’s beneficial or irritating, it really doesn’t discriminate – in your skin (Skin, Inc).
Preparation H contains another active ingredient, phenylephrine. Most commonly found in oral over-the-counter cough medicine (Drugs.com), this is a drug that will contrict your blood vessels (BASF). So in theory, the phenylephrine will constrict the blood vessels around your eyes, but only if your puffiness and dark circles are caused by vasodilation, which causes blood to pool around your eyes. If your problems are caused by hyperpigmentation, then this probably wouldn’t work for you.
The Phenylephrine Might Work, But You Probably Shouldn’t Be Using It on Your Eye Anyway
So now that we’ve figured out (hopefully) why you and your under eye area aren’t getting along, let me go ahead and tell you that you shouldn’t be using Preparation H on your eyes, anyway. First and foremost, the phenylephrine could do more harm than good; according to Dr. Jeffrey Benabio, M.D., of The Derm Blog, using phenylephrine on your eyes and eyelids might actually “cause the blood vessels to become more dilated over time as they try to counter the constricting phenylephrine,” therefore exacerbating the problem.
Second, according to a company spokeswoman, Preparation H no longer contains a live yeast cell derivative (LYSD) from Brewer’s yeast known as Biodyne, which was the ingredient in an no-longer-U.S.-approved formulation that significantly accelerated wound-healing and was believed to be the sole reason of Preparation H’s ability to diminish puffiness and dark circles (Livestrong, Pfizer, Journal of Burn Care & Rehabilitation). So unless you’re buying your Preparation H exclusively from Canada, then you’re not getting the effects from the original quick beauty fix.
Verdict: TRICK
If your dark circles and puffiness are caused by blood pooling, then Preparation H might work as a temporary fix, although I still wouldn’t recommend it. The current formulation available in the United States doesn’t contain Biodyne, which is the reason the product was used on the under eye area in the first place. Its replacement, phenylephrine, might actually worsen the problem, and accidentally getting the product into your eye might cause irritation or other sorts of problems. When you’re plagued by blood pooling, look to something along the lines of Origins GinZing™ Refreshing Eye Cream ($26.99, amazon.com), which contains caffeine to constrict your blood vessels and reduce puffiness. Much like the phenylephrine in the Preparation H, it’s only a temporary fix, albeit a much safer one for your eyes.