I believe that science-based skincare should be used to keep your skin beautiful. On the other hand, I’m a bit of a softie for new and unusual skincare products. While I’ve come across a number of awesome anti-aging products in the 8 years that I have been writing for FutureDerm, few have impressed me as much as the ERASA XEP-30, a rejuvenating serum meant to lift fine lines and wrinkles and make the skin appear more youthful.
“Don’t you say that about every product?, some readers may wonder. True, products are exceeding my standards almost every week – but then again, I don’t stock up on other products as I did with ERASA XEP-30. For my thoughts and an ingredient breakdown, read below!
XEP-30 and X-50 Myocept: Specially-Patented Peptides that Pack a Punch
What I love about ERASA is that they include a number of specially-patented peptides in their products. While most of the recent research about XEP-30 has not been available to the public, ERASA notes on their site that XEP-30 is a “patented neuropeptide with the most line-relaxing effects to date” – so in other words, wrinkles simply don’t stand a chance to XEP-30. This peptide, a biomimetic snail neurotoxin, can mimic results similar to Botox without the stereotypical “frozen face” that many Botox users develop.
Developed by Infinitec, ERASA XEP-30 also contains the specially-designed peptide X-50 Myocept. Like XEP-30, there is little publically-available evidence discussing X-50 Myocept. However, the Infinitec website notes that X-50 Myocept was similarly designed to mimic the effects of Botox without Botox’s characteristic drawbacks. X-50 Myocept works by minimizing neuronal exocytosis and blocking the formation of the SNARE protein complex, a protein that can play a role in intercellular fusion (Infinitec).
To put that in plain English, X-50 Myocept is designed to relax the muscles and limit muscle contractions, all by means of a targeted delivery system that delivers beneficial neuropeptides to the core of the targeted skin cells.
Niacinamide: A Tried-and-True Anti-Aging Ingredient
I could wax poetic about niacinamide’s benefits for the skin, but I’ll limit myself to a paragraph or two. In essence, niacinamide is one of the best anti-aging ingredients out there, what with its ability to alleviate symptoms ranging from fine lines and wrinkles to discoloration. For example, a study published in the journal Dermatologic Surgery found that after applying a 5% niacinamide to the face for 12 weeks, women with photoaged skin saw notable improvements in terms of fine lines and wrinkles, skin texture, skin elasticity, and hyperpigmentation/sallowness (Dermatologic Surgery). Similarly, other studies have found that niacinamide used in smaller concentrations (4%) for a shorter period of time (8 weeks) still yielded noteworthy results in aged skin, with particular advancements in wrinkles seen around the periorbital area (Journal of Dermatology).
For those of you who are more concerned about age spots or discolored skin, consider this: a similar study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science noted that a 5% niacinamide treatment was well-tolerated amongst users and improved sallowness, blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots, in addition to poor skin texture and wrinkles.
Studies on niacinamide have received some criticism owing to many of its participants being Caucasian or pale-skinned women. However, it is not unreasonable to believe that those of darker complexions and genders can still reap the benefits of using niacinamide, especially if you have photo-aged skin that hasn’t responded well to other treatments.
Boswellia Extract: A Boon for Inflamed and Scaling Skin?
ERASA is known for using a bevy of specially-patented and scientifically-backed ingredients in their formulations, so I was a little surprised to see that it contains a number of plant extracts. One that really caught my attention was boswellia extract (also known as frankincense), which surprisingly has a long (but not well-publicized!) history as an anti-inflammatory agent. For example, research published in 2014 in the journal Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology found that topically-applied boswellic acids could alleviate some of the scaling, itching, and inflammation seen in conditions such as psoriasis and erythematous eczema. This same study also suggested that boswellic acids’ polyunsatured fatty acids may lend further improvement to compromised skin by improving and protecting skin barrier functioning and thus lengthening the period of time between eczema/psoriasis flare-ups. It is believed that boswellic acids can soothe the skin by inhibiting pro-inflammatory enzymes, although its precise mechanisms of action are still being examined (Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences),
Boswellic acids are also believed to exhibit antimicrobial activity against both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, indicating that they may be beneficial in treating infections (Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine). Research published in the journal Dermatologic Therapy also found that topically-applied boswellic acid could improve skin texture, improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, and limit sebum section – what’s not to love?
How to Use
ERASA XEP-30 should be applied to dry, cleansed skin twice a day. It should be the first step in your daily skincare routine. You only need about 2-3 pumps in order to fully cover your face and neck. ERASA recommends waiting a few moments before applying more skincare products, although I like to wait about a minute, so that the product can be fully absorbed.
Personal Use and Opinions
Since I’m always mixing new products together, I prefer those that have a fairly light scent. The ERASA XEP-30 has a very light scent, and a lightweight texture – I believe that even those with oily skin should be able to use this serum without worry. I apply sunscreen zealously every day, so I am lucky that I don’t really have any photodamge to speak of yet. However, the ERASA-XEP 30 serum was effective in clearing up some tiny nasolabial folds and making my undereye area appear more vibrant and youthful – in fact, my face appeared more full and supple after using this product for just one week! Overall, I was exceptionally satisfied with this product, and believe that it’s one of the most effective anti-aging products that I’ve ever come across.
I’m not exaggerating when I say that the ERASA XEP-30 is one of the most innovative and effective anti-aging products to hit the market. Containing the specially-patented XEP-30 and X-50 Myocept, which produce results similar to Botox without Botox’s characteristic “frozen face”, ERASA XEP-30 is sure to blur the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and make your skin appear more plump and full. For added benefit, their formulation includes the tried-and-true anti-aging ingredient, niacinamide, in addition to the anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial frankincense. If you need one more reason to believe that I truly adore ERASA XEP-30, consider this: this is one of the few products that I have ever stocked up on in advance and even recommended to some of my elderly female relatives – it’s simply too good to pass by!