Cosmetic Ingredient Glossary

A peptide derived from almonds. May reduce the appearance of wrinkles, but more study is needed.

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A powerful solvent, often used as the active ingredient in nail-polish remover. On contact, can irritate skin; inhalation of its fumes can cause a slew of other health problems.

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GOOD Fulvic acid is a strong acidic polymer (pH1) extracted from organic substances such as peat. It helps other ingredients better absorb into the skin. As well as serving as a potent antioxidant that can significantly help fight the signs of aging such as fine(...)

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Ideal for reducing fine wrinkles, regulating and smoothing the skin texture, exfoliating pores, and maintaining a balanced pH levenl. They work by thinning the straum corneum

A drying agent. One of the most absorbent substances on earth.

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Used in antiperspirants to inhibit sweating by blocking sweat glands.

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A natural ingredient produced from the kernels of the argan tree. Contains fatty acids to maintain skin elasticity, smoothness, and radiance.

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An ingredient similar to Botox. It can be injected or applied topically (for a lesser effect).

A good antioxidant and free-radical scavenger. Artichoke leaf extract contains chlorogenic acid, which was found to prevent the erythema that occurs with UV irradiation.

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A form of vitamin C, this naturally-derived ingredient is an antioxidant. One of the main ingredients of our FutureDerm CE Caffeic Silk Serum! 

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A chemical sunscreen that works by converting the energy from UV rays into a non-harmful form, such as heat. Not recommended for kids or pregnant women, as it gets absorbed into the body.

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Sodium bicarbonate. A very alkaline (pH9) ingredient often used as an abrasive agent in toothpaste and in rinses for acidic mouths.

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Has been shown to kill acne bacteria by generating reactive oxygen species in the sebaceous follicle. However, this process creates free radicals, so use only when needed and only on specific spots.

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An oil-soluble ingredient that can easily enter clogged pores. Also removes dead skin cells, allowing new cells to grow in and theoretically fill in wrinkles.

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A probiotic claimed to work as a DNA repair agent when applied topically. This is not proven by a study.

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Contains fatty acids that moisturize and soften hair, as well as vitamin E.

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An alpha-2 andrenergic antagonist that

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A toxic heavy metal sometimes found in lipstick. It is not easily absorbed into skin, but topical exposure to large quantities is not recommended.

A form of hydroxycinnamic acid, this is a very potent antioxident. Studies have shown it is more effective than ferulic acid.

Applied topically, this ingredient works as a vasoconstrictor, antioxidant, and diuretic. However, due to its diuretic effect, may be drying as well.

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Natural oil derived from camillias. Increases collagen production within the skin and promotes hydration.

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An oil that has strong antioxidant properties and contains carotenoids, which help prevent signs of aging, even out skin tone, and protect skin from UV damage.

Primarily used as an emollient and moisturizer.

Extracted from caviar, the salt-preserved, non-fertilized eggs

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Like Cetyl alcohol, this is a fatty alcohol derived from coconuts. A great moisturizer that is used as an emollient and to improve viscosity in cosmetics.

Like Cetearyl alcohol, this is a fatty alcohol derived from coconuts. A great moisturizer that is used as an emollient and to improve viscosity in cosmetics.

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A phenolic compound naturally found in green coffee beans, potatoes, prunes, and other foods. Has strong antioxident and anti-inflammatory properties.

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A petroleum by-product sometimes used to treat psoriasis. Exactly how it works, however, is unclear.

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A very heavy oil that is frequently used in hair products, as it contains triglycerides that are easily absorbed into the hair shaft.

Extracted from the coffee cherry of the

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An emollient and moisturizer that is rich in tocopherol, as well as fatty acids.

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A lightweight, liquid silicone. Used in moisturizers, conditioners, solvents, and as a delivery agent for other skin-care ingredients.

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A type of silicone that works well to help fill in wrinkles, while still allowing other ingredients to get through to the skin thanks to its unique structure. Often used in foundation to prevent the product from creasing in lines and wrinkles.

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Has been proven to firm skin by causing the formation of vacuoles (large pools of water) inside cells. However, too many vacuoles can cause cell death-- use with caution.

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Possibly an exciting new anti-aging ingredient that helps to promote microcirculation in skin. However, more studies are needed to prove this.

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A form of hydroxycinnamic acid, this is a strong antioxident.

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A strong acidic polymer (pH1) extracted from organic substances such as peat. Helps other ingredients better absorb into the skin.

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An extract from the galanga plant, a member of the rhizome family. A good antioxidant with anti-inflammatory and analgesic benefits; may also promote the production of hyaluronic acid in skin.

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Found in apricot-seed oil, this ingredient soothes conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and dandruff.

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Topically applied garlic gel has been shown in studies on those with alopecia areata to help promote hair growth. Also handy for repelling vampires.

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An emollient, humectant, and occlusive agent. It has been shown to consistently be one of the best moisturizers in products.

A great exfoliant that also increases collagen production by stimulating fibroblasts. Found to be effective in treating UV-damaged skin because it mediates the matrix degradation that keratinocytes release.

Tiny particles of gold. Could cause damage to skin that inhibits wound healing and speeds up aging.

An ingredient claimed to soothe skin by delivering moisture when applied topically. Also, a delicious snack.

Bananas are rich in antioxidants and contain vitamins A, C, and E, as well as beta-carotene, selenium, and lutein. Unripened (green) ones have been shown to help heal ulcers.

Contains powerful polyphenols that fight against skin cancer formation and free radicals. Also protects against inflammation and encourages cell regeneration.

Derived from seeds of the Cannabis sativa plant, hemp oil contains polyunsaturated fatty acids. These have anti-inflammatory effects, can stimulate collagen production, and can inhibit linoleic acid oxidation when applied topically, but research shows consuming hemp oil orally is even more(...)

A chemical sunscreen that works by converting the energy from UV rays into a non-harmful form, such as heat. Not recommended for kids or pregnant women, as it gets absorbed into the body.

The main ingredient in hair bleach, it bleaches hair by breaking down melanin when it oxidizes. Always do a patch test when using hair color containing it, as it can cause chemical burns and/or allergic reactions.

A skin-lightening ingredient that works by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, by acting as a melanocyte cytotoxic inhibitor, and by increasing the cytotoxicity of melanocytes.

A buffer, used to maintain the pH of a formulation.

A stable form of the antioxidant coenzyme Q10, the most prevalent antioxidant naturally found in the body. It neutralizes free radicals and protects the skin from UV-induced reactive oxidative species, but causes allergic reactions in some users.

A type of red seaweed that is the main source of carrageenans,which are sulphated linear polysaccharides. Plumps skin and may possess antiviral and immunomodulatory properties.

An emollient used for its smoothness and for being silky without being greasy.

Used in cosmetics as an emollient and lubricant. Comedogenic (pore-clogging; bad for acne-prone skin).

Comes from a tree found in Madagascar and is used in traditional medicine to heal wounds and skin infections. Claims that it improves skin's barrier function and ability to retain moisture are not, to date, substantiated.

A cytokin and plant hormone that has been shown to build repair enzymes as well as increase the rate of the cell cycles. Improves fine wrinkling and lines, mottled skin, and roughness.

Often used in cosmetics for its scent, but also serves as an emollient with high essential fatty acids (Omega-3 from alpha-linoleic acid) and antioxidants. We'd like to see more testing, though.

Used to lighten dark spots or treat melasma, kojic acid works by suppressing tyrosinase activity. Some users experience a contact allergy, so patch test first.

Kukui oil is derived from the candlenuts of the kukui tree in Hawaii. Creates a barrier to prevent the skin from losing moisture and may also aid wound healing (though more studies are needed).

A popular alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), lactic acid can be naturally extracted from milk, but is usually synthesized in a lab for use in cosmetics in order to ensure its purity. Lactic acid's smoothing abilities are similar to that of glycolic acid.

A strongly-scented essential oil derived from lavender flowers. Often used in aromatherapy products.

A synthetic peptide that works like enkephalins to inhibit neuronal activity and catecholamine

Contains glycyrrhizinate and has been proven to be anti-inflammatory as well as a moisturizer. Also prevents hyperpigmentation.

A colourless liquid hydrocarbon. Limonene has been found to be an irritant and a skin sensitizer, which means that it makes you skin more vulnerable to the sun.

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Claimed to smoothe skin, improve its appearance, and produce a cooling effect, but further studies are needed.

The trademarked name for a certain variety of the enzyme lignin peroxidase, which comes from fungi. Used in skin-lightening products.

An ingredient in nail polish that has been shown to cause contact dermatitis (i.e., a rash) in some users.

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A liquid distillate of petroleum comprised of alkanes (saturated hydrocarbons) that have a chain length of between 14

Another name for the extract of Laminaria digitata, which is a type of brown algae. Said to help increase cell energy, slowing the aging process, but further study is needed.

An emollient which has a high proportion of fatty unsaturated acids, such as linoleic, oleic, and linolenic acids, along with carotenes, tocopherols, and tretinoin. A study showed it can help heal skin and reduce signs of aging, but we'd like to see more research on this very promising ingredient.

The high-pH version of vitamin B3. Improves mild to moderate acne and signs of aging, such as hyperpigmentation.

A chemical sunscreen that works by converting the energy from UV rays into a non-harmful form, such as heat. Not recommended for kids or pregnant women, as it gets absorbed into the body.

A chemical sunscreen that works by converting the energy from UV rays into a non-harmful form, such as heat. Not recommended for kids or pregnant women, as it gets absorbed into the body.

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Contains resveratrol, which may promote the activity of sirtuins, agents that prolong the life of collagen-producing skin cells. May also protect against UV skin damage, but further study is needed.

A chemical sunscreen that works by converting the energy from UV rays into a non-harmful form, such as heat. Not recommended for kids or pregnant women, as it gets absorbed into the body.

The main ingredient in hair dye. This organic compound turns brown when oxidizing agents

Often used as a preservative, parabens are a hot topic amongst beauty insiders. There is evidence that might link them to breast cancer, but it's important to remember the FDA has declared them safe in cosmetics.

Have been shown to increase collagen production and enhance ingredient penetration in research studies. However, peptides are too large to penetrate the skin, so while it's clear they work, researchers don't know quite how this is possible.

Technically a wax, petrolatum acts as an occlusive moisturizer, keeping water in the skin and other substances out. It is derived from petroleum.

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The skins of pistachio nuts are packed with antioxidants, and, when this ingredient is applied topically, it can have a photoprotective effect, reducing UVB-induced erythema. More study is needed, though, and anyone with a nut allergy should be careful.

Extracted from the organ that connects a baby to its mother in her uterus, this ingredient has not been shown to have any positive effect on the skin. It is usually taken from sheep, pigs, or goats, but at least one product we know of uses human placenta.

The most widely-used plastic in the world today. In cosmetics, used for many things, including as a stabilizer and viscosity-increasing ingredient.

Often found in hair products, polymers coat the hair and offer a watertight seal. They

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A cereal grain containing amino acids that have been proven in studies to penetrate the hair shaft, strengthening hair.

Shown in a number of studies to increase sirtuin production. Often extracted from the roots of Japanese Knotweed.

A potent anti-aging ingredient, retinol deactivates the matrix metalloproteinases that break down collagen, increases cell turnover, and improves skin's moisture retention. Also the star ingredent of FutureDerm Time Release Retinol 0.5.

A form of retinol. Retinyl is not as potent as retinol, but unlike retinol, can be used with hydroxy acids.

An antioxidant that combats free radicals, skin discoloration, acne, and inflammation.

An ingredient that helped reduce the depth of wrinkles and improve the appearance of photoaged skin... in a study commissioned by its manufacturer. Further study is required.

Oil extracted from the seeds of an African tree. Contains oleic, linoleic, and palmitic acids, as well as both vitamins C and E.

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A fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree, shea butter is an excellent moisturizer. It also may have anti-aging and healing properties.

Inert, synthetic compounds generally used to improve make product glide smoothly over the skin. Also help prevent transepidermal water loss and absorb excess oils.

A precious metal. Future research may uncover that it promotes wound healing, helps acne, and has anti-aging properties, but current research is contradictory at best.

The elongated form of argireline (it has two extra amino acids). Has an effect similar to Botox.

A natural complex sugar that holds about 10,000 times its weight in water. It hydrates skin extremely well, and can temporarily reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

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Extracted from soybeans, this ingredient helps to lighten skin and reduce unwanted body hair. However, it can be irritating to the skin and provoke an allergic reaction in some users.

A naturally occurring compound found in shark liver as well as many plant-based oils. It has anti-aging and anti-fungal properties and is easily absorbed by skin.

Extracted from starfish, this ingredient is becoming popular in Asian products. Claims that the starfish's regenerative properties help aging skin are unsubstantiated.

An emollient and occlusive agent that does not clog the pores. It contains ~60% linoleic acid. Note: This applies only to the cosmetic-grade oil, not the kind you can buy at the supermarket.

Less greasy but also less pliable than fats. Waxes resist oxidation, microbial agents, and moisture well.

A form of vitamin C that is oil-soluble. This powerful antioxident can penetrate both the epidermis (the uppermost layer of skin) and dermis (the deepest layer of skin).

An oil derived from thyme. Has been shown in several studies to work against Candida albicans, one of the fungi responsible for nail fungus.

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A silicone derivative and emollient that

The collective name for Polymyxin B Sulfate, Bacitracin Zinc, and Neomycin. Used to prevent infection in wounds.

An excellent natural moisturizing factor that improves skin barrier function. It binds water to the skin and promotes the production of keratin.

Vitamin C is a necessary nutrient for the human body (in food). Topically, it is a strong antioxident and a key ingredient in our FutureDerm Vitamin CE Eye Cream!

A fat-soluble antioxident, vitamin E can be taken as a dietary supplement or used topically. When combined with vitamin C, it helps protect skin from the sun.

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An extract from white tea leaves that has a preventative effect against phototoxicity and photocarcinogenesis. As with green tea, a powerful antioxident.

Derived from a leafy holly plant, yerba mate is better known as a drink than a skincare ingredient. However, it has strong antioxident properties.

A very effective physical sunscreen that blocks both UVA and UVB rays.

An antibacterial and anti-fungal compound that also has cytotoxic activity against skin cells. Often the active ingredient in dandruff shampoo.