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IT Cosmetics is one of those brands I imagine would be amazing as a late-night infomercial: Promise beautiful skin in 60 seconds! Use this “magic wand” to give yourself perfect skin! I’ve used their cosmetics periodically, and while full-coverage isn’t my style, it is nice to look flawless at all times (and from all angles) in the Instagram era. I’ll stand behind their cosmetics for, say, special occasions and professional photo shoots.
That said, I’m a little less enthusiastic about IT Cosmetics’ break into skin care, particularly with their initial IT Cosmetics Confidence in a Cream, and now with the IT Cosmetics Secret Sauce™ Moisturizer. It sounds like a late night infomercial: Not only is it called “secret sauce,” but it’s trademarked, literally, Secret Sauce™. Just like LaMer, it contains fermented ingredients, a term that the average consumer does not understand in terms of effects, but a term that sounds sexy. (In case you were wondering, fermentation tends to make products more acidic, helps them exfoliate the skin better, and tends to make them penetrate the skin better). It also has this other Drops of Light Technology™ and diamond powder, with nothing more than cosmetic effects. Lastly, IT Cosmetics Secret Sauce™ Moisturizer contains not one, not two, but seven “clinically advanced, penetration-enhancing fermented ingredients to maximize the benefits of the Secret Sauce™.”
Sigh. It’s just a little too infomercial-level cheery for me, and a little too lacking in substance.
I mean, aside from the fact that this is sugary-sweet oozing sales terms-type marketing, IT Cosmetics Secret Sauce™ Moisturizer has a few benefits. The benefits are that it does contain proven ingredients in significant concentrations: anti-aging peptides, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and licorice root all have been proven in peer-reviewed studies to aid with discoloration, lines and wrinkles.
The reason I won’t use IT Cosmetics Secret Sauce™ Moisturizer is basically because it contains ascorbic acid and niacinamide. I never use these ingredients together. Why? Well, L-ascorbic acid ( a form of vitamin C) requires a pH of less than 3.5 in order to penetrate the skin. L-ascorbic acid is the naturally-occurring form of vitamin C, while niacinamide is the –amide form of niacin or vitamin B3 as discussed in a previous post. When mixed together in aqueous solutions (since both are water-soluble vitamins), they form a 1:1 complex that turns the solution yellow, rendering both compounds useless.
Furthermore, in the presence of UV light and oxygen, which seems likely since antioxidants (such L-ascorbic acid and niacinamide) are frequently and complementarily used with sunscreens to enhance UV protection, the two compounds may even generate the very reactive hydrogen peroxide compound through a 4-step chain reaction.
In short, I don’t like IT Cosmetics Secret Sauce™ Moisturizer, mainly because it combines ascorbic acid and niacinamide, and partially because its marketing claims are just so over-the-top and cheery, I can’t take it (unless it’s 3 AM and I can’t sleep and I’m looking to buy something off of an infomercial. Then, butter me up). It’s just not enough substance to back up its enthusiasm level. I wish this company would stick to what it does best: Foundation, concealer, and cosmetics!
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Ingredients in IT Cosmetics Secret Sauce™ Moisturizer
AQUA/WATER/EAU, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, CETYL ETHYLHEXANOATE, GLYCERIN, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, TRIBEHENIN PEG-20 ESTERS, OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT OIL, HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, GLYCERYL STEARATE, PALMITIC ACID, SODIUM ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER, STEARIC ACID, DIMETHICONE, ISOHEXADECANE, PHENOXYETHANOL, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, CHLORPHENESIN, TROMETHAMINE, ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER, POLYSORBATE 80, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, SORBITAN OLEATE, FRAGRANCE (PARFUM), DISODIUM EDTA, MYRISTIC ACID, SQUALANE, ASCORBIC ACID, COLLOIDAL OATMEAL, CHOLESTERYL OLEYL CARBONATE, NIACINAMIDE, LACTOBACILLUS/PUMPKIN FERMENT EXTRACT, POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE, ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF EXTRACT, LACTOBACILLUS/DIPTERYX ODORATA SEED FERMENT FILTRATE, CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT, TOCOPHEROL, PANAX GINSENG ROOT EXTRACT, SODIUM HYALURONATE, CHOLESTERYL NONANOATE, CHOLESTERYL ISOSTEARATE, CHOLESTERYL CHLORIDE, SACCHARUM OFFICINARUM (SUGAR CANE) EXTRACT, COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) FRUIT EXTRACT, CURCUMA LONGA (TURMERIC) ROOT EXTRACT, VEGETABLE OIL, SOPHORA JAPONICA FLOWER EXTRACT, ASPERGILLUS/SACCHAROMYCES/RICE FERMENT FILTRATE, PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA (LICORICE) ROOT EXTRACT, RETINYL PALMITATE, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, STEARETH-20, LEUCONOSTOC/RADISH ROOT FERMENT FILTRATE, HIZIKIA FUSIFORME EXTRACT, CHLORELLA MINUTISSIMA EXTRACT, SPIRULINA PLATENSIS EXTRACT, CODIUM FRAGILE EXTRACT, ULVA LACTUCA EXTRACT, FUCUS VESICULOSUS EXTRACT, LAMINARIA SACCHARINA EXTRACT, GELIDIUM CARTILAGINEUM EXTRACT, MACROCYSTIS PYRIFERA EXTRACT, LAMINARIA DIGITATA EXTRACT, LACTOBACILLUS/ALGAE EXTRACT FERMENT, CODIUM TOMENTOSUM EXTRACT, SARGASSUM MUTICUM EXTRACT, PIKEA ROBUSTA EXTRACT, ALGAE EXTRACT, AGARUM CRIBOSUM EXTRACT, HYDROLYZED ALGAE EXTRACT, LAMINARIA JAPONICA EXTRACT, HYDROLYZED ULVA LACTUCA EXTRACT, PORPHYRA YEZOENSIS EXTRACT, CHLORELLA FERMENT, ECKLONIA CAVA EXTRACT, ENTEROMORPHA COMPRESSA EXTRACT, HAEMATOCOCCUS PLUVIALIS EXTRACT, DUNALIELLA SALINA EXTRACT, UNDARIA PINNATIFIDA EXTRACT, LAMINARIA CLOUSTONI EXTRACT, SARGASSUM FULVELLUM EXTRACT, SALICORNIA HERBACEA EXTRACT, HYPNEA MUSCIFORMIS EXTRACT, JANIA RUBENS EXTRACT, CITRIC ACID, ASPERGILLUS/RICE FERMENT EXTRACT, POLYSORBATE 20, RICE FERMENT FILTRATE (SAKE), N-HYDROXYSUCCINIMIDE, CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA (MATRICARIA) FLOWER WATER, LACTOBACILLUS/CENTELLA ASIATICA/GLEDITSIA SINENSIS THORN/HOUTTUYNIA CORDATA EXTRACT/PHELLODENDRON AMURENSE BARK/POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT/PRUNELLA VULGARIS/TORILIS JAPONICA EXTRACT FERMENT FILTRATE, PHASEOLUS ANGULARIS SEED EXTRACT, SACCHAROMYCES/CAMELLIA SINENSIS EXTRACT FERMENT FILTRATE, LACTOBACILLUS FERMENT, LACTOBACILLUS/RICE FERMENT FILTRATE, BACILLUS/CORDYCEPS SINENSIS/GANODERMA LUCIDUM/INONOTUS OBLIQUUS/LENTINUS EDODES/PHELLINUS LINTEUS/SCHIZOPHYLLUM COMMUNE/TRICHOLOMA MATSUTAKE EXTRACT FERMENT FILTRATE, CARBOMER, HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN, ALGAE OLIGOSACCHARIDES, MACROCYSTIS PYRIFERA (KELP) PROTEIN, DIAMOND POWDER, POTASSIUM SORBATE, ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8, PALMITOYL PENTAPEPTIDE-4, PALMITOYL OLIGOPEPTIDE, CHRYSIN, PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7, CHLORHEXIDINE DIGLUCONATE.