Who said science can’t be art, too?
Well, whoever it was, apparently didn’t really have much of an imagination, or vision like Dr. Jart+.
As his website states, his products are “Powered by science. Inspired by art.” That sounds wonderful, but just how do these prettily-bottled serums really stack up when it comes to results? FutureDerm recently took a look at two of their most popular products: Peptidin Radiance Serum with Energy Peptides and Peptidin Firming Serum with Energy Peptides.
Here’s what we’re seeing.
Dr. Jart+ Peptidin Radiance Serum with Energy Peptides
Dr. Jart+ Peptidin Radiance Serum with Energy Peptides was created to lend a much-needed burst of energy to tired, dull skin. They boast an “8-Peptide Complex” and peach flower extract designed to give your skin a “pop of radiance.” So far, they’re doing great on the artsy side of things. They definitely know how to appeal to the emotional side of our brains.
We’re finding 11 different amino acids listed in their ingredients list. Amino acids are the little building blocks of peptides. Peptides are the slightly larger building blocks of proteins. Proteins can have a variety of functions for your body, but you’re probably well-aware of the protein that holds the biggest spotlight on the skin stage: collagen.
Because proteins like collagen lend substance to the structure of your skin, they can have a plumping, smoothing, and firming effect when applied with your skincare products, helping to decrease the visible signs of aging like a dull complexion, fine lines, and wrinkles. Collagen is part of what makes up about 80% of the dermis – the second layer in, just under the epidermis. It helps the skin look firm and smooth.
In addition to the singular amino acids, There are eight specific peptides included:
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
- Copper Tripeptide-1
- Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
- Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
In and of themselves, these peptides are all considered to be solid. My major issue here is with calling the peptides “energy peptides.” There really is no such thing. There are peptides that are shown in peer-reviewed studies to increase collagen production. But there are no peptides that are shown in any research that I know of to increase cellular energy, or whatever else this name subtly implies.
My secondary issue here is with the fact that these eight peptides are all listed last on the Dr. Jart+ Peptidin Radiance Serum with Energy Peptides ingredients list, which means that they are in the lowest concentration. Considering that most peptides used in studies are at concentrations of 0.5-8.0% to see results, I’m not impressed with the concentrations here.
That said, Dr. Jart+ Peptidin Radiance Serum with Energy Peptides does contain a high amount of niacinamide — I estimate around 3-4% — which in and of itself helps to brighten. There are several plant extracts and oat kernel extract, which can provide antioxidant and soothing effects.
Also, Dr. Jart+ Peptidin Radiance Serum with Energy Peptides is nice and light. It’s not oily at all, so it won’t clog your pores and applies very smoothly, resulting in a soft glow you can see immediately and because of the watery texture, it’s absorbed quickly.
Dr. Jart+ Peptidin Firming Serum with Energy Peptides
Another light serum formula, Dr. Jart+ Peptidin Firming Serum with Energy Peptides, also boasts the same 8-Peptide Complex and the plethora of amino acids, with additional actives designed to add a bit of plumping to tired, depleted skin. These include niacinamide, as well, and additional extracts and oils with the natural capacity to soothe like borage oil cornflower. A kick of antioxidants from artichoke, chinaberry, and eggplant extracts should leave your skin revived and renewed.
These serums both render most of their effects from niacinamide, in my opinion. I don’t have much a solid preference either way; if you are experiencing signs of sunspots, I recommend Dr. Jart+ Peptidin Radiance Serum with Energy Peptides, but if you have sagging skin, wrinkles, or fine lines, I really think you’ll get similar results from either. Honestly.
Both have a similar, watery-silky texture to them that spreads easily on the skin, making them a quick-to-apply product. They both tend to leave a slightly sticky residue, though, that made my makeup application a bit tricky. My skin lends towards the more sensitive side, so I did notice a bit more redness after using them.
My big issue here is with calling the peptides “energy peptides,” as there really is no such thing. My secondary issue is that all eight peptides are in low concentration.
A final word about the packaging: While beautiful and keeping in line with the artsy feel of the product line, these dropper bottles, though lending to easy application, are incredibly translucent, making them an item that you definitely need to hide away in a cabinet to keep them out of the sunlight.