For years, I’ve told FutureDerm readers that the best way to combat acne is with a combination of salicylic acid cleansers and toners, retinoids or AHAs and azelaic acid in moisturizers, on-the-spot benzoyl peroxide, and oral antibiotics and anti-inflammatory drugs. These drugs and ingredients normalize skin exfoliation, reduce P. acnes bacteria, remove pore-clogging material, take down skin inflammation, and decrease skin sebum and oil production (Cosmetic Dermatology). Unfortunately, as any chronic acne sufferer can tell you, some of these agents can leave skin feeling dry and irritated after repeated use.
I’ve thought about formulating a product for sensitive skin, but it turns out the skin experts at Avene beat me to the punch. The idea is genius: a derivative of lauric acid called Monolaurin has been found to inhibit the enzyme that causes acne in the first place, the enzyme X-Pressin whisks skin cells away, and Diolenyl causes P. acnes to self-destruct. Effectively, this means Eau Thermale Avene Cleanance Expert fights acne at each stage of its development!
Stage 1: Monolaurin Fights bacteria
Benzoyl peroxide is often recommended for acne because it kills bacteria within the sebaceous follicle (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology). Unfortunately, benzoyl peroxide causes free radical formation as a pro-oxidant, and many experts say it should be avoided as anything but an on-the-spot treatment (Cosmetic Dermatology).Eau Thermale Avene Cleanance Expertresembles benzoyl peroxide in that it helps to fight P. acnes bacteria, but its active ingredient, a derivative of lauric acid called Monolaurin, does not cause prooxidation. In fact, Monoluarin may have antioxidant activity — a much more desirous effect.
Stage 2: XPressin Separates Skin Cells
Acne sufferers have skin cells (keratinocytes) that stick together more than persons who have unblemished skin. This is unfortunate, and why agents like salicylic acid and retinoids are recommended. Salicylic acid works by breaking the bonds of keratin, a protein that forms part of the skin structure (DermNetNZ). On the other hand, retinoids reduce the positive and negative charges between the skin cells that keep them “magnetized” and decrease levels of a skin cell-linking enzyme, transglutaminase. For these reasons, salicylic acid and retinoids help to loosen dry scaly skin, increasing cell turnover and effectively renewing the skin. They are both often used in acne treatments to cleanse and to prevent clogging of the pores.
ButEau Thermale Avene Cleanance Expert is a little different. While salicylic acid and retinoids can irritate when they whisk away skin cells, the X-Pressin (papaya enzyme) in Eau Thermale Avene Cleanance Expert helps your skin gently “clear out” old, dead skin cells.
Stage 3: Bacteria Die
Steroid injections, oral antibiotics, and NSAIDs are often prescribed to decrease the levels of inflammation and oil secretion in acne sufferers. However, these agents often come with undesirable effects of their own, including “steroid acne,” skin thinning, and bacterial resistance.Eau Thermale Avene Cleanance Expert uses a compound called Diolenyl to cause bacterial death. How is pretty cool: For P. acnes to grow, it must eat the triglycerides present in skin sebum. Now, Diolenyl looks to a bacteria exactly like a tasty triglyceride, but it is attached to an antibacterial compound that will ultimately kill the bacteria. It’s pretty genius, really — and in clinical studies, after six weeks of twice-daily use, acne was reduced by 64%. Best of all, it did not cause significant irritation in 99.9% of users.
Bottom LineEau Thermale Avene Cleanance Expert is a genius product with three novel ingredients to treat acne without irritation: Monolaurin inhibits oil production, XPressin exfoliates, and Diolenyl kills acne-causing bacteria. Early studies show dramatic differences in acne production with just six weeks of use.
Because I know the question is coming, this does not mean I recommend throwing out your salicylic acid cleansers and toners, retinoids or AHAs and azelaic acid in moisturizers, on-the-spot benzoyl peroxide, and oral antibiotics and anti-inflammatory drugs. Instead, I would use Eau Thermale Avene Cleanance Expert in addition to your favorite anti-acne skin care regimen. I personally like the Keradigm Labs Acne Kits, which use combinations of key ingredient acids, extracts, and moisturizers to keep the skin smooth and acne levels significantly reduced.
Looking for the best skin care? FutureDerm is committed to having its customers find — and create — the best skin care for their individual skin type, concern, and based on your ingredient preferences. Learn more by visiting the FutureDerm shop!