After reviewing thousands of products on the FutureDerm blog over the past eight years, I have to admit that it’s fairly hard for a product or ingredient to truly impress me. Nevertheless, if there was any ingredient that I would stock up on for the next few years, it would have to be growth factors. Growth factors are natural proteins in your body that support the skin’s natural signaling properties, which can decline with age, and can be key for keeping the appearance of skin smooth, supple, and healthy. But given that they are only used in a few formulations, are growth factors really worth the hype? More importantly, are they worthy of being included in your skincare routine? Read my thoughts below!
What are Growth Factors?
In essence, growth factors are naturally occurring proteins in the body that may signal and simulate skin repair, regeneration, and the production of the collagen and elastin that makes your skin soft and supple. Over time, natural levels of growth factors in our bodies decline. Supplementing skin with growth factors may help return skin to its optimal health.
When applied topically, growth factors are most commonly used to treat conditions such as fine lines and wrinkles, discoloration/sunspots, and lost elasticity. Some critics have brought up the point that most of your human growth factors are larger than 15,000 Daltons in terms of molecular weight, which makes it very difficult for them to penetrate deeply within the stratum corneum.
While I would usually consider this to be a deal breaker (after all, what’s the point of applying something that just rests on the skin?), Dr. Gregory Nikolaidis points out that growth factors do not need to penetrate the skin deeply in order to be effective. In fact, Dr. Nikolaidis notes that “Growth factors and cytokines create a signaling pathway from the superficial cells to deeper ones, with keratinocytes in the upper dermis affecting a response from the fibroblasts in the dermis. The stratum corneum is simply a loose layer of dead skin cells overlying live keratinocytes underneath” (Aesthetic Medicine).
For those of you who want to bypass the scientific jargon, here’s the gist in plain English: growth factors (and cytokines) can more or less pass over the dead skin cells that form the stratum corneum and create a signaling pathway with the living skin cells deeper with the skin. Therefore, despite being rather large, growth factors are still able to meaningfully impact and improve cellular functioning.
What Can Growth Factors Do for My Skin?
Quite a bit, actually. While growth factors all broadly aim to improve the appearance of damaged and aged skin, each growth factor has its own specialized function and abilities. For example, hepatocyte growth factor (HGF) is believed to promote formation of the extracellular matrix and encourage three dimensional tissue growth, whereas interleukins-10,-13, and -15 are believed to promote wound healing and soothe inflammation (Facial Plastic Surgery).
A number of growth factors have also been linked with speedy wound healing. For example, topically-applied nerve growth factor (NGF) was found to promote granulation tissue formation, reepithelization, and collagen production in wounded skin. Research published in Biomedical Research International noted that this exceptional wound healing may have been due in part to NGF’s ability to encourage fibroblast migration. Basic fibroblast growth factor (bFGF) has similarly been linked to improved wound healing by means of promoting fibroblast migration and proliferation (Research in Experimental Medicine (Berlin).
Several clinical studies have also suggested that growth factors can encourage collagen synthesis and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles (Dermatologic Therapy, The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology). For example, research published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology suggested that epidermal growth factor (EGF) and fibroblast growth factor (FGF1) both encouraged the regeneration and proliferation of skin cells, indicating that they may be suitable topical agents for those who wish to reverse signs of aging. In a 2006 study published in the journal Dermatologic Surgery, experimental participants applied either a vitamin C-containing serum or a growth factor-containing serum. The growth factor-containing serum, which included transforming growth factor-beta(1) (TGF-beta(1)), hepatocyte growth factor (HGF), and platelet-derived growth factor subunit A (PDGF-A), notably improved the appearance of facial wrinkles.
Additionally, in a study from Suneva Medical, Inc. that evaluated skin improvement when applying a skin care product formulated with growth factors, statistically significant improvements in investigator assessments of tactile roughness, visual texture, wrinkles, blotchiness, skin tone evenness, radiance and translucency compared to baseline were observed (2).
This Sounds Great and All – But Do I Really Need to Use Growth Factors?
Well, this depends. There are already a great number of anti-aging ingredients on the market which can cater to several different budgets. As far as ingredients go, growth factors are still relatively new, unregulated, and found in only a handful of brands’ products at the moment. But does that mean that you should pass them up for your tried and true ingredients?
No! Of the select few ingredients that have truly fascinated me and gained my respect in recent years, growth factors are certainly one of them. Although they may not be as popular as something like a retinoid or vitamin C, growth factors are still worth of your attention. Better yet, as they gain more traction with skincare aficionados, growth factor-containing products are likely to become more affordable and prevalent.
If nothing else, consider this. Growth factors are found naturally within the skin, and are responsible for facilitating intercellular communication and regulating cell health. Yet as we age, our bodies produce lower levels of growth factors, which in turn can lead to decreased collagen and elastin production and overall diminished cellular functioning (Dr. Joel Schlessinger.com). So to repair fine lines, wrinkles, elasticity, sun spots, and several other signs of age-related damage, why not apply more of the very same hormones (growth factors) that are responsible for maintaining your skin’s appearance?
By incorporating a skin care product formulated with next generation growth factor technology and applying a rejuvenating blend of physiologically balanced growth factors to the skin, the natural proteins in your body may enhance the skin’s natural repair and renewal and help reverse the sings of aging. Essentially, skin cells have been conditioned to act like younger cells resulting in younger, fresher growth factors.
It’s also important to keep in mind that other ingredients can seldom match the dramatic results of using growth factors. Additionally, growth factor-containing products are seldom as pricey as undergoing surgery and rarely induce irritation, unlike many other popular anti-aging staples.
Regenica® and MRCx™ Next Generation Growth Factor Technology
Of the growth factor skin care products available, Regenica® has been on my radar and may be worth checking out. Regenica® is a skin care line made with the power and promise of regenerative science. It is formulated with MRCx™ next generation growth factor technology to enhance skin’s natural repair and renewal and help prevent the signs of aging. Clinical studies demonstrate that when used consistently, Regenica® improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduces the appearance of pores, and evens out skin tone appearance to reveal a more radiant complexion (1). There are a variety of products within the Regenica® line so here’s a quick summary:
- Regenica® Renew SPF 15 helps protect skin from harmful UV rays. It’s the only UV protectant formulated with MRCx™ next generation growth factor technology to enhance skin’s natural repair and renewal and help prevent the signs of aging.
- Regenica® Replenishing Crème hydrates skin and helps reverse the signs of aging. The combination of MRCx™ next generation growth factor technology, powerful peptides, and advanced moisturizers replenishes what you lose over time. Nourish your skin and reveal your most radiant complexion.
- Regenica® Repair Complex helps enhance skin renewal. Made with MRCx™ next generation growth factor technology, it’s specifically formulated for sensitive skin.
- Regenica® Revitalizing Eye Crème is specifically formulated for the delicate skin around the eye. It’s a revolutionary formulation of MRCx™ next generation growth factor technology with advanced peptides, powerful antioxidants, and superior moisturizing agents. Regenica® Revitalizing Eye Crème quickly softens the look of fine lines and wrinkles while reducing the appearance of puffiness and dark under-eye circles.
- Regenica® Recovery Gel is a soothing balm that helps quickly heal skin. It infuses MRCx™ next generation growth factor technology with the most trusted natural anti-inflammatory and calming agents, including arnica, vitamin K, aloe vera, beta-glucan, and SymCalmin™. Help reverse the signs that your skin was ever less than perfect.
This week, Regenica® is unveiling a brand new product to add to its growing line. The new product addition is a revolutionary offering that is backed by decades of research in regenerative science. Referred to as the Regenica® Rejuvenating Dual Serum, it’s a next generation formula in skin care that delivers the most advanced growth factor technology. Stay tuned for my review and feedback on this one!
Bottom Line
In my opinion, growth factors are one of the best ingredients in modern dermatology, albeit they are a little expensive and can only be found in a few brands’ formulations at the moment. As we age, our bodies produce lower levels of growth factors, which in turn contributes to skin aging. While they may be a little more expensive and hard to find, I believe that growth factors are among the most powerful ingredients for those looking to treat aged skin.
(1) Suneva Medical, data on file.
(2) Anti-Aging Proof of Concept Study: Results and Summary. Suzanne Bruce, MD*, Jwala Karnik, MD**, Laurence Dryer, PhD***, David Burkholder, PhD****