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How Does Dry Shampoo Work?

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Showering every day is part of a daily ritual for many people, Americans in particular. Market research firm Mintel found that nearly 93% of adults in the U.S. suds up with shampoo every morning (New York Times). But recent trends have caused many to question a daily shower, because it can dry skin and strip it of sebum. Too frequent washing may even create a better breeding ground for certain bacteria.

[Read More: Does Showering Too Much Damage Your Skin?]

Enter dry shampoo, which many use to keep hair several days out from the last shower looking fresh. In 2008, it represented only 1% of global shampoo launch activity, but in 2012, it had grown to 3% of global shampoo launch activity. In fact, 53% of the current dry shampoos have been launched after 2009, according to Mintel (Mintel).

In the U.S., roughly 16% of adults used dry shampoo in the last year. That number is about the same for the “Big 5” European markets (Spain, UK, France, Italy, Germany), except in the UK, where 23% of women avolved in the market.

The Difference Between Dry and Wet Shampoo

Wet washing your hair gets it cleaner but can also do more damage if done too frequently.
Wet washing your hair gets it cleaner but can also do more damage if done too frequently.

Dry shampoos work by absorbing the excess oil on your scalp, so that hair doesn’t have an “oily” look. It’s specifically for use with dried hair, not with wet hair.

In traditional wet shampoos, surfactants work in two ways. Their lipophilic, or oil-attracted, part adheres to dirt and oil, then the hydrophilic, or water-attracted, part follows the water in your shower. Essentially, the lipophilic part grabs hold, and the hydrophilic does the moving.

[Read More: Infographic: From Shampoo to Fabric Softener — What Surfactants Do for You]

But dry shampoos instead work by absorbing the oil in your hair. Unfortunately, for that reason, you won’t get the same kind of clean as you would with a wet shampoo.

Absorbing Oil: Starch, Silica, Talc, and More

Dry shampoo can come in a few forms, including aerosol and loose powders, but they all pretty much work the same way. Clays, silica, and several other possible dry shampoo ingredients are know as “sorbents,” which essentially means they’re able to absorb other things (Queensland University of Technology).

[Read More: Is Talc Bad for Your Skin?]

The idea is that once you leave the oil in your hair for a few minutes, you can brush your hair or shake it out a little to get rid of any of the flakes or powdery look that dry shampoo can give.

Using Dry Shampoo: The Good

If you're regularly heat styling, dry shampoo can save your style AND your hair.
If you’re regularly heat styling, dry shampoo can save your style AND your hair.

I’ve heard many people say that while frequent washing dries out their hair, their scalp gets oily if they don’t wash their hair everyday. For those people, dry shampoo is a perfect solution, allowing you to save your hair from over-washing without having the roots look oily.

Dry shampoo isn’t just beneficial for those who don’t want to shower everyday because it dries out their hair. It’s also good for those who regularly use heat styling. Heat styling can strip the lipid layer that helps protect you hair (Handbook of Nanotechnology). It can also cause hair to become more negatively charge, resulting in more frizz.

By using dry shampoo, you can save your style for several days instead of redoing it repeatedly and inevitably damaging your hair. Just be sure to wait a few minutes before styling to make sure you give the dry shampoo time to work.

Using Dry Shampoo: The Bad

Reading the labels is important when buying dry shampoo. Alcohol without emollients and moisturizers can result in dry hair.
Reading the labels is important when buying dry shampoo. Alcohol without emollients and moisturizers can result in dry hair.

Unfortunately, like with many things, there are benefits and downsides to using dry shampoos. Some of that depends on which dry shampoo you pick. Certain aerosol dry shampoos mix their ingredients into a quick dry formula by using something like denatured alcohol.

That might not be as big a problem as you think. Many dry shampoos include oils that help to counterbalance the alcohol. When these ingredients are included, the alcohol dries layer of the product, rather than drying out your skin. Fortunately, it’s possible to find aerosol dry shampoos that include moisturizing ingredients or those that are alcohol free.

[Read More: Is Ethanol in Skin Care Products Safe?]

There’s also a limit to dry shampoo use. Celebrity stylist Jacqueline Bush says that if you’re thinking of using dry shampoo for the third time, it’s time for a full-on shampoo instead (Huffington Post).

Bottom Line

Nearly anyone can use a dry shampoo, and they’re growing in popularity. Too frequent washing can be bad for skin and hair by drying them out and stripping their natural protection. Dry shampoo, which isn’t as thorough a wash as wet shampoo, works by absorbing the oil in your hair. Overall, there aren’t many negatives to dry shampoo, unless you use one with alcohol and no moisturizing ingredients. It’s a pretty simple solution.

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