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How Young is Too Young?: When to Start Using Anti-Aging Skin Care

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I may be in my mid-20s, but I’m no stranger to anti-aging skincare. I do work at FutureDerm, after all.

On the one hand, aging starts earlier than you’d think — in your early 20s. On the other hand, my mother and I probably shouldn’t have identical skin care routines. In our youth-obsessed culture, it seems that beauty companies want you using anti-aging creams, serums, and treatments as early as possible. But should young adults really be shelling out the big bucks for anti-aging creams when they’re barely juggling rent and student loans?

How young is too young to start your anti-aging ritual? As it turns out, the answer isn’t clear.

Your Needs Depend on Your Sun Exposure 

Collagen production decreases by about 1% every year after you turn 21. It’s the protein found within your skin and connective tissue that allows skin to remain elastic, firm, and youthful; as collagen amounts decrease, your skin is likely to show its wear and tear, so to speak (Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice). Aside from natural, intrinsic facts, other causes of collagen degradation include environmental factors like sun and tobacco smoke exposure, and it’s this kind of exposure that will make you appear older, faster (The Press Democrat). 

According to Judith Campisi, cellular biologist and professor at the Buck Institute, “If you start sunbathing when you’re young, you will begin to show aging signs in your late 20s, early 30s.” Which means that all of those days I spent lounging in the sun (without sunscreen, no less) studying during college are likely to manifest themselves later in my skin (The Press Democrat).

Your Best Way to Tackle Anti-Aging Treatments is to Take Preventative Care of Your Skin

As Dr. Debra Jaliman, M.D. explains in an exclusive interview with FutureDerm, “There is no specific age that women should start with Botox, peels, and laser treatments. It all depends on the condition of the skin.” As I mentioned above, if you’ve been neglecting your skin in terms of sun protection, you’re likely to look older at a younger age. All other things equal, a woman who has been applying sunscreen daily for years will probably look younger than a similarly-aged women who hasn’t taken the same amount of care of her skin.

[Related: New Study: Wearing Sunscreen Every Day Can Keep Aging Away]

Protecting your skin from UV damage is the best “anti-aging” preventative treatment you can do. According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency, up to 90% of visible signs of aging can be attributed to sun exposure, so it’s best to apply sunscreen daily to keep your skin looking and feeling younger.

In case you need to be persuaded further, let’s look at a study involving 900 Caucasian subjects under the age of 55 who were randomly split into two groups. One group was asked to use sunscreen at their discretion, while another was assigned to use SPF 15 or higher all over their bodies, including their head, neck, arms, and hands, every morning and after sweating, washing, or being out in the sun (Annals of Internal Medicine).

The study, conducted over four years, analyzed skin impressions of subjects to give them a score of 0 to 6, with 0 being smooth and elastic skin and 6 being wrinkled, inelastic, and severely photoaged skin. Both groups had a median score of 4 to start, but at the end of the study, the group using sunscreen daily showed 24% less signs of aging (Annals of Internal Medicine).

Other Actions You Can Take Include Antioxidant Serums and a Nightly Retinol

During the day, I’d recommend using an antioxidant serum first to supplement the protection of your sunscreen. Try our FutureDerm Vitamin CE Caffeic Serum ($89); it contains vitamin C, which firms skin by triggering collagen production. When paired with vitamin E, the two work synergistically to provide broad-spectrum (UVA/UVB) protection.

[Related: Infographic: How Vitamin C Works]

Always apply your sunscreen last; it should have an SPF greater than 15 since consumers typically don’t apply enough protection; for example, even if you’re using SPF 100, you might only be getting an SPF of 27 (American Academy of Dermatology). Try layering Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 70 ($8.48, amazon.com) over your antioxidant serum.

If you’re truly worried about your skin and aging, use a retinol at night, which will help fight fine lines and wrinkles and mild-to-moderate acne. I’d suggest trying our FutureDerm Time-Release Retinol 0.5 ($54.95); it’s micro-encapsulated to penetrate into your skin up to eight hours after application. Finish your nighttime routine with eraclea Restorative Hydrating Night Cream ($85, eracleaskincare.com), which contains hyaluronic acid to keep your skin hydrated and nourished.

[Related: Infographic: How Does Retinol Work?]

Bottom Line

There’s no “right” age to start using anti-aging treatments, but you’re never too young to start taking preventative measures, particularly against damage caused by UV radiation. Wear sunscreen daily and make sure you reapply often, especially after sweating, washing your face, and sun exposure. Layering an antioxidant serum underneath will provide supplemental protection. And if you feel like you need an extra step, use a retinol cream at night. As always, talk to your dermatologist for more personalized recommendations for your skin.

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Nicki Zevola is the founder and editor-in-chief of FutureDerm.com. Named one of the top 30 beauty bloggers in the world by Konector.com since 2009, Nicki

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