Ellagic acid is the new agent set out to release stubborn age spots and signs of melasma. According to preliminary research from Skinceuticals, ellagic acid works as effectively as prescription-strength hydroquinone in high concentrations, without the irritating side effects.
Ellagic Acid May Cause Skin Lightening
It’s controversial to talk about skin lightening in the U.S., but internationally, skin lightening is a popular phenomenon. In fact, skin tone and pigmentation-lightening products reached $19.8 billion in worldwide sales in 2012 (Wikipedia).
Since skin lightening is a broad term that targets multiple skin conditions, the demand for a multifaceted approach is necessary. All pigmentation disorders can be categorized under the umbrella term of ‘hyperpigmentation’. Hyperpigmentation refers to an excess or irregular amount of pigmentation being produced in the skin. It can affect people of all skin tones.
If you do not wish to produce an overall lightening effect in the tone of your skin and simply treat age spots and melasma, I highly recommend using concentrated products on the site of the discoloration(s) only, and treating the rest of your skin with other agents.
Ellagic Acid May Repair Sun-Damaged DNA and Treat Age Spots
With the advancements in research in regards to mechanisms of excess pigmentation, ellagic acid has been found in research studies to repair sun damaged DNA and treat age spots, but only when used in 0.5% concentration or higher.
One study in treating hyperpigmentation with ellagic acid from the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in 2013. This 12 week study enrolled 82 subjects (7 male, 75 female) ages 25–60 years. The study divided the 82 subjects into two balanced groups of 41 subjects each. One group used 0.5% ellagic acid, 1.1% hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, yeast extract, and salicylic acid formulation twice daily. The other (control) group used a standard prescription combination of 4% hydroquinone cream and 0.025% tretinoin cream applied nightly.
The results were impressive: Both the ellagic acid and standard tretinoin formulation were shown to be able to even skin tone, decrease spot intensity, decrease spot size, and improve overall pigmentation.
But what was exciting is the ellagic acid formulation was that it did not cause the irritation, redness, or peeling seen with some of the prescription tretinoin. This means that, at least theoretically speaking, ellagic acid shows as much promise as retinoids in treating hyperpigmentation — without a prescription and without redness. And that, my friends, is exciting.
Where to Find Ellagic Acid?
One of my favorite products with ellagic acid is Skinceuticals Advanced Pigment Corrector. This product contains 0.5% ellagic acid in a super-absorbing formulation that quickly absorbs into the skin.
I also think Skinceuticals Chest, Neck, and Hand Repair is a genius product. Too many of us abandon our necks, chests, and hands when it comes to high-performance skin care. This product addresses these concerns with optimal concentrations of high-tech ingredients like 1.1% Hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, 2.4% Sodium tetrahydro-jasmonate, and 3.3% Vigna aconitifolia seed extract.
That said, after reviewing the literature, I highly recommend Skinceuticals Advanced Pigment Corrector for sunspots and melasma, and Skinceuticals Chest, Neck, and Hand Repair for sunspots and age spots, especially when used in conjunction with an antioxidant vitamin CE serum.