In the midst of an increasingly natural, organic skin care market that often makes me cringe, there are a few standouts that actually are proven to work in the scientific literature. One of these is argan oil. I’ve been a fan of Josie Maran Argan Oil ($38.00, Amazon.com) since it first debuted on the market several years ago. The texture is medium-thick, and spreads rather easily on skin and hair. I’ve even recommended using it over top of my FutureDerm Time-Release Retinol 0.5 in the past.
Recently, the folks at Josie Maran Cosmetics produced Josie Maran Argan Oil Light ($13.95, Amazon.com), a lightweight version of the original. Unlike pure argan oil, Josie Maran Argan Oil Light is designed to be an “ultra lightweight, quick-absorbing version” of the original, leaving a matte rather than shiny finish on the skin.
The secret? Josie Maran Argan Oil Light contains only argan isostearylic esters, rather than pure argan oil, as found in the original.
What is an Argan Isostearylic Ester?
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Esters are simply molecules with a specific chemical group, shown above. Esters are naturally found in most fats and oils, including argan, olive, castor, and essential oils. It is also what gives fruits like apples and strawberries their natural scent (On Food and Cooking). The human body also naturally has esters throughout its entirety, including as a major constituent of pheromones, those scent-driven particles that make us attracted to one person but not to another.
So, yes, argan isostearylic esters are naturally found in argan oil. In order to extract the esters from the oil, however, you need to undergo a chemical extraction process. This isn’t to say the ingredients in Josie Maran Argan Oil Light aren’t natural – it just took more energy to extract them from the oil.
Are Esters as Beneficial as Pure Oils?
Whether or not an ester derived from an oil is as beneficial as the entire oil depends on the oil.
In the case of argan oil, the entire oil is rich in fatty acids that are able to maintain skin elasticity, smoothness, and radiance. These fatty acids include linoleic acid and oleic acid. In studies, linoleic acid has been proven capable of reducing inflammation and acne and increasing skin’s moisturization levels. On the other hand, oleic acid is a omega-9 monounsaturated (i.e., contains only one double bond) nonessential fatty acid that makes up 55-60% of olive oil and 56% of açai berry.
Unfortunately, Josie Maran Argan Oil Light doesn’t contain fatty acids like linoleic or oleic acids. Instead, Josie Maran Argan Oil Light only contains the esters of fatty acids. These are less hydrating than entire fatty acids, and are likely to also have less anti-inflammatory properties.
On the other hand, the esters in Josie Maran Argan Oil Light will maintain much of the antioxidant and mildly UV-protective properties of the original Josie Maran Argan Oil. The extraction process will not hinder these benefits, which are fairly well-documented (Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 2005).
Personal Use and Opinions
Josie Maran Argan Oil Light is lighter and drinks in more quickly than the original. It also has slightly less of a nut-like smell than the original, and dries to a smooth finish. The light version is also much better for use on the body, because it doesn’t leave oily marks on your clothing. (Especially if you wait a few minutes before putting on your clothing!) After a few days of use, I think my skin feels smoother, but not as hydrated as with the original Josie Maran Argan Oil.
See the Difference
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[Left: Josie Maran Argan Oil; Right: Josie Maran Argan Oil Light]
[Josie Maran Argan Oil Light]
[Josie Maran Argan Oil Light]
[Josie Maran Argan Oil Light]
[Josie Maran Argan Oil Light]
[Josie Maran Argan Oil]
[Josie Maran Argan Oil]
[Josie Maran Argan Oil]
Bottom Line
Josie Maran Argan Oil Light is likely to not have as many anti-aging properties as the original Josie Maran Argan Oil, because pure argan oil contains entire fatty acids that impart significant antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating properties.
On the other hand, Josie Maran Argan Oil Light is still beneficial for the skin, and is more cosmetically appealing than the original Josie Maran Argan Oil, as it dries more quickly, smells better, and leaves a matte finish. So while I give the original a 95%, the light version gets a solid 80% – and a “thumbs up” in using it for the body.
Looking for the best skin care? FutureDerm is committed to having its customers find — and create — the best skin care for their individual skin type, concern, and based on your ingredient preferences. Learn more by visiting the FutureDerm shop!Â