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Jan Marini Skin Research is one of my all-time favorite skin care companies because they often use clinically-proven ingredients in potent form. Take for instance, the new Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus ($295.00, Jan Marini.com). In a five-step program, your skin receives cleansing, refining, brightening, hydrating, and protecting benefits – all formulated to work well together.
The Real Secret: Glycolic Acid
Numerous studies have shown alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic acid and lactic acid increase exfoliation of the outermost layer of skin, treat sun spots, and unplog pores. Alpha hydroxy acids also stimulate the dermis, the deepest layer of the skin, to produce more collagen (Study, 1998).
However, glycolic acid is considered to be superior to other alpha hydroxy acids because it has hydrating as well as skin-refining effects (Archives of Dermatology, 1996). This is because glycolic acid functions as a humectant, drawing moisture in from the surrounding air, rather than just treating the skin.
That said, the glycolic acid treatments you receive in a dermatologists’ office are typically upwards of 20 percent, whereas those done at-home are usually 8-15 percent. While it will take longer to achieve the effects of glycolic acid with Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus than a lunchtime peel, improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and skin laxity will take place over the course of 4-6 weeks.
Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus has a fairly high concentration of hyaluronic acid, which is documented as a superior moisturizing ingredient that can bind up to 1000 times its volume in water. Despite this capacity, sodium hyaluronate is surprisingly light as a moisturizer, absorbing into the skin quickly and easily.
Sodium hyaluronate is perfect for all seasons as well, maintaining its efficacy in both high and low humidity conditions.
Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinol that is combined with a fatty acid, palmitate. As you might imagine, retinyl palmitate is weaker than retinol, which in turn is weaker than prescription-grade retinoic acid.
Companies tend to use retinyl palmitate because it is more gentle to the skin than retinol or retinoic acid, reducing the risk for redness and irritation. However, studies have shown that there is no statistical advantage to using retinyl palmitate over placebo (Aesthetic Surgery Journal, 2010).
Still, even if Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus contained retinol, it wouldn’t be fully effective anyway: Retinol undergoes esterification at a pH of 6.8, whereas glycolic acid has a pH as low as 3.0, depending on the concentration of the solution. Many dermatologists recommend not using retinol and glycolic acid together for this very reason.
Many Brightening Ingredients
In addition to skin-brightening glycolic acid, the Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus also contains ergothioneine and resorcinol. Ergothioneine is an antioxidant amino acid that has been found to be secreted in higher concentrations around sites of cellular damage, suggesting ergothioneine may play a protective role (Photochemistry and Photobiology, 1988). In the skin, ergothioneine has been found to have a higher antioxidant concentration than idebenone, that magical antioxidant so popular in the Prevage series (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2007). Though coffee berry is likely to have a higher antioxidant capacity than either ergothioneine or idebenone, I believe coffee berry is patented. What’s more, Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus contains more active ingredients than the Revale Skin line (with coffee berry), so I’m impressed.
Is your skin a mess? Whether you’re recovering from a divorce or other trauma, need help after years of sunbathing, or have simply neglected your skin for the past 20 (40? 60?) years, Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus contains a lot of proven ingredients to help your skin recover. It’s truly a one-two-three punch against sunspots, fine lines/wrinkles, and dullness, and can help your skin get back on its feet again after a stressful event or years of abuse.
While certain ingredients may be more targeted – like prescription-strength hydroquinone for sunspots or prescription-strength retinoids for fine lines/wrinkles – if you want a treatment for all of these problems at once, the Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus will deliver satisfactory results. My recommendation is to use the Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus for 6-8 weeks and then see your dermatologist to spot-treat whatever lingering skin problems you have after.
I love the Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus, and I highly recommend it!
Product Rating: 8.5/10 (High or optimized concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 2/3. Value for the money: 2.5/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).