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Kinerase Restructuring Firming Eye Cream Ingredient Analysis

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kinerase_eye_creamThere’s been quite a buzz about Kinerase Restructuring Firming Eye Cream ($59, amazon.com), which promises to stimulate collagen production and reduce wrinkles. The exciting ingredient that’s contributed to the hype is LOXL Stimulator — a combination of peptides including AC DemaPeptide Lifting PBF, Argireline, SNAP-8, and Leuphasyl. The cream also contains much-talked-about kinetin, which is also known for wrinkle reduction and can be useful on delicate parts of skin. Overall, the research points to this eye cream being a winner.

AC DermaPeptide Lifting PBF

This peptide comes from sweet almond proteins. It’s a bipolymer that’s been shown in a study (which I was not able to access) done by Active Concepts LLC to reduce the appearance of wrinkles (Cosmetics and Toiletries). This, along with almond extract in general, is something I’d like to see more studies on.

Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3) and SNAP-8

Argireline works similarly to Botox, though there are fewer studies about its effectiveness when applied topically.
Argireline works similarly to Botox, though there are fewer studies about its effectiveness when applied topically

The reason I’m covering these two together is that SNAP-8 is the elongated form of Argireline, which is considered a topical alternative to injectable Botox™ (Lipotec, Peptide Labs). The two work in the same way, with the only difference being that SNAP-8 has two extra amino acids. But industry studies suggest that SNAP-8 is up to 30 percent more active than Argirelines (Lipottec).

The company performed both in vitro and in vivo tests to make this assertion. For the in vivo study, the Lipotec Company tested SNAP-8 on 17 women over a 28-day period and used silicone molds to see results. They then compared the results of this study to a previous one done on Argireline to determine that SNAP-8 was more active.

Both peptides work in the same way, by inhibiting neurotransmitters and stopping the formation of the SNARE process, which is responsible for neurotransmitter release (Textbook of Aging Skin). While the effects comparable to Botox™ are injected argireline, there are studies that show argireline’s topical effects. One study found that after 28-days topically applied argireline at a 10 percent concentration reduced wrinkles by 30 percent (International Journal of Cosmetic Science).

Some people have better results with argireline than others and some report facial sagging while using the ingredient. Fortunately, the damage isn’t permanent and your face will go back to normal.

Leuphasyl

This is a synthetic peptide that works like enkephalins to inhibit neuronal activity and catecholamine — which includes nonadrenaline and adrenaline — release (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, Cosmetic Science Technology). It’s been shown to be comparable to similar percentages of argireline. And researchers have found that when paired, five percent argireline and five percent leuphasyl are synergysteric (Personal Care).

Kinetin

Kinetin has been found to help curb some of the cellular processes that cause aging.
Kinetin has been found to help curb some of the cellular processes that cause aging.

Kinetin, a cytokin and plant hormone, is an excellent addition to an anti-aging regime (PubChem). That’s because kinetin can actually help build repair enzymes as well as increase the rate of the cell cycles (Cosmetic Dermatology, Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications).

It’s also similar to antioxidant dismutase. In a study on fruit flies, those that were fed kinetin had between a 55 and 60 percent increase in the activity of free-radical busting enzymes (Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications).

And 0.1 percent kinetin has been found comparable to 0.02 percent trentinoin in improving fine skin wrinkling, fine lines, mottled skin, and roughness (Skin Medicine). It’s good for delicate parts of skin like lips and eye areas.

Studies collectively show that it can affect cellular processes associate with cellular aging with DNA repair and antioxidants.

Bottom Line

Overall Kinerase Restructuring Firming Eye Cream has a lot of promising ingredients. In addition to the above listed, there’s Shea butter, which has been shown to have anti-aging properties, as well as the skin care staple tocopherol, a powerful antioxidant. The ingredients listed above are fairly high up on the list, so they should be potent enough to have real effects. The only downside is that those sensitive to sagging from argireline won’t be able to use this.

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