Lancôme Visionnaire LR 2412 ($66.99, Amazon.com) is the latest in anti-aging products from the French powerhouse. The secret is LR 2412, Lancôme claims “propels through skin layers” to trigger “a cascading series of micro-transformations.” If that doesn’t sound impressive, what does? Unfortunately, as per usual, the reality is not as beautiful as the marketing:
LR 2412 = Jasmonic acid
When plants are under stress, such as attack or environmental strain, they will release jasmonic acid. In turn, jasmonic acid triggers a number of pathways of increased resistance within the cells. These pathways include increased immunity, resistance to wound formation, and even fruit formation – you couldn’t grow a potato without jasmonic acid release!
Of most interest to the skin care consumer? Jasmonic acid has been shown to produce proteinase inhibitors, which effectively slow the breakdown of collagen and other proteins within the skin (The Plant Cell, 1992).
The forms of jasmonic acid found in Lancôme Visionnaire LR 2412, namely sodium tetrahydrojasmonate and tetrahydrojasmonic acid, are likely to be hydrating as well. Jasmonic acid is a natural derivative of the hydrating fatty acid linoleic acid, so application will supplement your skin with some omega-3’s and omega-6’s in the right ratios as well.
Lancôme Visionnaire LR 2412 fails to dazzle in the way of other ingredients. One of the four major ingredients is denatured alcohol, which is not one of the beneficial hydrating alcohols. (Remember: “Steer toward the 4 C’s” for the hydrating alcohols – stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, and the C12-15 alcohols.)
In the way of hydration, Lancôme Visionnaire LR 2412 is superior, with a number of silicones and a fair concentration of sodium hyaluronate, which can hold 1000 times its weight in water. The level of hydration and the light-reflecting mica makes me curious as to why Lancome marked Visionnaire LR 2412 for 20-to-50 year olds rather than the 50-and-older crowd. Older individuals would certainly benefit from the hydration and the delicate fine line+wrinkle-filling nature of the silicones, as well as the light reflection. However, as I pointed out in a post about pixi Line Relax Serum, marketed for 40+ and excellent for teens and 20-somethings, sometimes you have to ignore the label to get the best results!
If retinoids did not exist, I would be on the bandwagon to purchase Lancôme Visionnaire LR 2412 immediately. However, the truth of the matter is, retinoids not only inhibit collagen-degrading enzymes like jasmonic acid, but they additionally refine the surface of the skin, increase cell turnover, and decrease hyperpigmentation over time.
I read recently that the internet is increasing human knowledge at such a rate that it is doubling every 10 years. If Lancôme and parent company L’Oréal want to release a groundbreaking product in the age of such an increasingly educated public, they need to release interesting new ingredients like jasmonic acid derivatives with proven anti-agers like retinoids, glycolic acid, niacinamide, soy extract, and antioxidants. Just a dose of sodium hyaluronate isn’t going to cut it in the long-term.
Furthermore, the “study” Lancôme released is very disappointing. In the study, Lancôme researchers interviewed a number of women about whether or not they wanted to have a cosmetic procedure. After using Lancôme Visionnaire LR 2412 for several weeks, half of the women said they no longer wanted the cosmetic procedure.
What kind of study is this?! Where is the double-blinded, controlled study? Where is the actual measure of decrease in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles or increase in skin’s elasticity? Where is the comparison to proven skin care ingredients? With all due respect to Lancôme’s marketing team, we live in an increasingly educated era. It’s time to cut the hype. If you want to release a product that is going to have some degree of longevity in today’s market, you need to ensure your product has a strong scientific backbone.
So no, I won’t be purchasing Lancôme Visionnaire LR 2412, but I do look forward to Lancôme and/or L’Oréal releasing truly groundbreaking anti-agers with jasmonic acid derivatives and proven anti-agers in the future. Hopefully this will happen! Product Rating: 6/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 2/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 1/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Ingredients in Lancome Visionnaire LR 2412 4% Serum
Aqua, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Dipropylene glycol, Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, Polysilicone-11, Dimethicone, Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone Polymethyl Methacrylate, CI 77891, Mica, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Adenosine, Dimethiconol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disodium EDTA, Citronellol, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Parfum, sodium tetrahydrojasmonate, ammonium polyacrldimethtyltauramide/ammonium polyacryloydimethyl taurate, hydoxyethylellulose, argilla/magnesium aluminium silicate, tetrahydrojasmonic acid, Citronellol, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Parfum/Fragrance.