If FutureDerm readers love anything, it’s retinoids (vitamin A). (That’s why I created a retinol product for you!) But today, I thought I would introduce you to another new great vitamin A product: Mad Hippie Vitamin A Serum. Unlike many other serums, Mad Hippie Vitamin A Serum features a new-ish form of vitamin A, an ester called retinyl retinoate. For more, read on…
Retinyl Retinoate May Be Comparable, Slightly Stronger than Retinol
A 2011 study in Skin Research and Technology determined that 0.060% retinyl retinoate cream decreased depth and area of wrinkles similarly to a 0.075% retinol cream. (In case you hate math: If less of ingredient A produces the same effect as ingredient B, ingredient A must be stronger.)
In the study, which was double-blind, randomized and controlled, 11 Korean women used a 0.060% retinyl retinoate cream for three months. Every four weeks, a series of measurements including a global photodamage score, photographs and image analysis were taken.
Results revealed a statistically significant improvement in facial wrinkles (p < 0.05) in all eleven volunteers and the successive application of Further, the visual wrinkle improvement and maximum roughness improvement rate (R2) for 0.060% retinyl retinoate cream were 22% higher than that of 0.075% retinol cream after 12 weeks. Finally, a statistically significant increase was observed after eight and four weeks for dermal distance and dermal intensity, respectively (p < 0.05).
Retinyl Retinoate May Be More Gentle than Other Forms of Vitamin A
Retinyl retinoate may also be more gentle than other forms of retinol. A 2010 study in the Journal of Dermatology and a 2012 study in the International Journal of Dermatology found that retinyl retinoate induces less transepidermal water loss than other forms of retinoids and may help to prevent retinoid-associated irritation.
Retinyl Retinoate is More Stable than Retinol
Another study found that retinyl retinoate is more stable in the presence of light and heat than retinol (Bioorganic and Medicinal Chemistry, 2008). An increase in stability matters because it indicates that retinyl retinoate does not necessarily need to be microencapsulated or have another special delivery system in order to get deep within the skin to work.
More Studies Would Be Great
My only concern about retinyl retinoate is that all of the above aforementioned studies feature the same author, who also co-authored a patent on retinyl retinoate. While this researcher is extremely well-esteemed and respected, and I am sure his findings are sound, the findings on retinyl retinoate would mean more if they came from various authors.
However, given that retinyl retinoate has only been around for 5-6 years, and included regularly in products for the past 1-2 years, I am sure we will have more studies from varied authors in the future. If it holds its weight, it could be another case of Dr. Sheldon Pinnell and vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid some thirty years ago — he authored all of the early studies and authored a series of patents, and now there is so much research on vitamin C, it’s unbelievable!
Personal Use and Opinions
Mad Hippie Vitamin A Serum is a creamy serum. It has a mild scent, reminiscent of some kind of fruit or flowers. It has a very smooth texture and glides easily across the skin. It absorbs fully into the skin after about 30 seconds. Mad Hippie Vitamin A Serum dries on the skin without any feelings of tackiness or stickiness. The scent also goes away once it is in your skin for about 1-2 minutes or so.
While Mad Hippie Vitamin A Serum doesn’t list the concentration of retinyl retinoate, I estimate it to be somewhere in the 0.05-0.1% range — which may certainly be enough to demonstrate the fine line and wrinkle-fighting action demonstrated with 0.06% retinyl retinoate in studies (Skin Research and Technology, 2011).
If you experience irritation with retinol, or you just want to switch up your retinoids, give Mad Hippie Vitamin A Serum a try. It’s a solid product from a fun brand that produces results!