As much as I hate to admit this, I’m really particular about my hair, to the point that if I’m having a bad hair day, I’m having a bad day. Period. So it goes without saying that I’m rather particular about what I put into my hair. After years of poorly straightening it, I finally came around to the natural craze about five years ago, at which point I continued using my trusted John Frieda Frizz-Ease Extra Strength Serum on my curls. Recently, I switched to using Trader Joe’s Organic Virgin Coconut Oil on my frizzy hair, and it has since felt like it has taken on a new life. In case you hadn’t noticed, the thought of using something new on my hair isn’t exactly pleasing.
But I am more than happy to assist our readers in finding the best treatments for their hair, so when we received Miss Jessie’s Pillow Soft Curls in our October Birchbox, I knew this was one hair treatment I had to test, especially with people finally starting to embrace their natural textures. Read on to find out more.
What Science Says about the Ingredients
Miss Jessie’s Pillow Soft Curls‘ main ingredient is behentrimonium chloride, which coats the hair shaft to make it smoother and more manageable in a manner similar to silicones (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists). It’s a popular surfactant in deep conditioning beauty treatments (Curls and Coils) because it is a cation, thus making it positively-charged. Hair, on the other hand, holds a negative charge, especially the more damaged it is, so the behentrimonium chloride is able to attach to hair better than silicones. This polar attachment allows the behentrimonium chloride to form a protective layer over the shaft to improve its strength (Fibers and Polymers).
The product also includes some other smoothing ingredients popular to the hair-care scene: silicones, like amodimethicone and dimethicone, which is one of the the heaviest silicones found in products. This quaternary ammonium compound sticks to the hair shaft to protect it further, thus reducing combing force on both wet and dry hair to prevent breakage (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists). Of course, with the inclusion of silicones and behentrimonium chloride, there’s the potential for buildup over time.
One of the best things about Miss Jessie’s Pillow Soft Curls is the inclusion of hydrolyzed wheat protein. Its low molecular weight allows it to penetrate the hair shaft easily, where it covalently bonds with the disulfide bonds in your hair to fill holes left by damage to external cuticle scales. It can strengthen hair by up to 10% (Medscape, Hair in Toxicology). Additionally, it acts as a humectant moisturizer to draw water from the environment and hydrate your hair while also forming a protective layer over it to keep moisture locked in tight (Cosmetic Science Technology).
With the good comes the bad, in this case, for Miss Jessie’s Pillow Soft Curls also includes a fair amount of citric acid. While acidic products help to close the cuticular scales, acidity also causes the hair shaft to shrink, which will decrease its diameter and cause limp hair. It will also increase your hair’s sensitivity to the sun, thus accelerating any UV-induced damage caused by sun exposure. Since this is a leave-in product, this could exacerbate any existing damage to your hair if you spend a lot of time in the sun (JMCPP).
Does it Work?: Personal Use and Opinion
I really wanted Miss Jessie’s Pillow Soft Curls to work, but I think it fell a little short. To start, the smell of the product is a little off-putting, but it disappears upon drying. The consistency feels like a sticky conditioner, so I felt a little weird combing it through my hair; it reminded me of accidentally missing a spot when I rinse out my conditioner. I styled my hair as normal, using a diffuser, and my hair looked pretty much the same at first glance. But I noticed that my hair did look a little dryer, and had lost quite a bit of its luster. This was equally apparent when I touched my hair; instead of feeling soft and silky, my hair felt coarse.
Bottom Line
At first glance, Miss Jessie’s Pillow Soft Curls sounds great; it contains behentrimonium chloride and hydrolyzed wheat protein, both of which work to strengthen curls, as well as heavier silicones, which should smooth out and protect your hair. Unfortunately, it also contains citric acid, which can accelerate UV-damage when left in your hair during sun exposure. As far as using the product, I was less-than-thrilled. It does work, and it doesn’t leave your hair reminiscent of uncooked Ramen noodles, but it still had plenty of room for growth, especially when compared with my normal styling product. For all of you curly-haired readers, this is one product you should probably skip.