MLA Skin Care Review

A few months ago, I was blessed with an offer to try the award-winning MLA Skin Care ($75.00-85.00, MLASkincare.com).  Considering that I was under the stress of studying for the boards at the time, I really appreciated the fact that MLA Skin Care is developed by the highly acclaimed Dr. Mary Lee Amerian M.D., and that her line contains some of the highest concentrations of active, clinically proven ingredients in the market today.  Dr. Amerian, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist, also affirms that her line is “gentle enough to be used on all skin types, even the most sensitive,” which is a godsend for over 50% of Americans who claim to have sensitive skin.

With that said, I have used the following MLA Skin Care products for the past few weeks.  I must say, all of the products take to the skin beautifully, as they are lightweight and easily absorbable.  The light silicone (dimethicone) base of all the products also makes it possible to skip a makeup primer altogether!   However, I did like some of the products more than others.  Here is my analysis and experience with each below:

My favorite product by far in the MLA Skin Care Line is the Multivitamin Serum ($85.00, MLASkincare.com).  The serum contains high concentrations of vitamin C (as stable derivative tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) and vitamin E (as tocopheryl acetate), which synergistically work together as “network antioxidants” to enhance their antioxidant potential, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s textbook Cosmetic Dermatology.  Numerous studies also point to the activity of vitamins C and E as having the potential to boost UV protection, as proven in a 2002 study in Free Radical Biology and Medicine.

The Multivitamin Serum also contains niacinamide, which has been proven to do just about everything from reducing fine lines and wrinkles to lightening hyperpigmented spots somewhat to treating rosacea and skin sallowness (yellowing) to increasing skin’s elasticity, as stated in Dermatologic Surgery.

While I also normally don’t like vitamin A in a product containing vitamin C – vitamin A works best at a higher pH – the fact that this product contains vitamin A as retinyl palmitate makes this particular ingredient formulation more amenable than most.  Add in the antioxidant ubiquinone, the hydrating olive oil, and the powerhouse green tea, and you have yourself a real winner here.  I personally love it instead of a primer if I am going out for the evening!  Product Rating: 9/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 2/3.  Sunscreen: N/A for a serum).

Multivitamin Serum Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Isopropyl Isostearate, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Phytantriol, Ubiquinone, Retinyl Palmitate, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Squalane, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Ceramide 2, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Ursolic Acid, Ilomastat, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Tribehenin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Pentylene Glycol, Polyacrylate 13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Brightening Serum

Although I hate to say it, of all of the products, my least favorite was the Brightening Serum ($85.00, MLASkincare.com).   Sure, the product glides on like a dream, absorbs easily, and even feels great on the skin.  Unfortunately, the issue here is that most of the ingredients proven to lighten and brighten the skin best are at odds with being gentle.  Truth be told, the gold standards proven by research right now are bull-like powerhouses:  4% hydroquinone (which is not recommended for darker skin tones), the new Stanford-developed Lumixyl^TM (just out in 2009), and, of course, in-office procedures such as chemical peels and certain laser and light treatments.  And while the MLA Multivitamin Serum contains a high concentration of arbutin, which has a chemical structure similar to hydroquinone and has been proven in scientific journal studies to reduce melanogenesis in two distinct ways, it also has been demonstrated that arbutin itself can be harsh on the skin, as paradoxical pigment darkening may occur after [arbutin] use as a result of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.   Some skin care products now contain deoxyarbutin instead, which has been established in Experimental Dermatology to not demonstrate this effect.

So, as you can tell, I would personally choose the Multivitamin Serum over the Brightening Serum on any given day, even if my primary concern was skin dullness.  Product Rating: 6/10 (High concentration of proven effective ingredients:  2/3.  Unique formulation or new technology:  2/3.  Value for the money: 1/3.  Sunscreen:  N/A for a serum.)

Brightening Serum Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopropyl Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Dimethicone, Arachidyl Alcohol, Diacetyl Boldine, Aminoethylphosphinic Acid, Alpha-Arbutin, Glucosamine HCl, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract, Rumex Occidentalis Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi (Bearberry) Leaf Extract, Morus Alba (Mulberry) Root Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Ursolic Acid, Ilomastat, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Ceramide 2, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Glycerin, Tribehenin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Pentylene Glycol, Polyacrylate 13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.

MLA Power Cream

MLA Power Cream is a solid product, particularly if you have dry skin and want a product rich in collagen-boosting peptides.   The peptide in highest concentration is palmitoyl oligopeptide (AKA palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 or palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 or Matrixyl), a synthetic signaling peptide proven to stimulate collagen types I, III, and IV; fibronectin; elastin; and glycosaminoglycan production.  (In short, regular use of palmitoyl oligopeptide can help make your skin look a little firmer, and can help prevent it from further laxity in the future).

MLA Power Cream also contains palmitoyl tripeptide-5 (Syn^®-Coll), which has been reported by The International Journal of Cosmetic Science to be a synthetic signal peptide that mimics the thrombospondin I tripeptide sequence to activate TGF-β, thereby promoting collagen formation via TGF-β.  In a controlled trial, 60 healthy volunteers received 2.5% Syn^®-Coll cream vs. 10% palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 cream vs. placebo cream twice daily for 84 days, and Syn^®-Coll significantly decreased average and maximum relief by −22 and −36 μm respectively.   Considering that MLA Power Cream is one of the few moisturizers offering palmitoyl tripeptide-5, I’m excited!

Overall, MLA Power Cream is a little rich for oily skin, but I really love it, especially for those with sensitive skin who are concerned about aging but cannot tolerate retinoids.  I give this one a Product Rating: 8/10.  (High concentration of proven effective ingredients:  3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology:  3/3.  Value for the money: 2/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1.)

Power Cream Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Diglycerin, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isopropyl Isostearate, Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Ceramide 2, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Glucosamine HCl, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Ursolic Acid, Ilomastat, Ubiquinone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Tribehenin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Pentylene Glycol , Ceteareth-20, Steareth-2, Lecithin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Ethylparaben, Fragrance.

MLA Eye Serum

MLA Eye Serum is a solid product.  Its shining star is again palmitoyl tripeptide-5, which stimulates collagen production and increases skin firmness somewhat, as affirmed  by The International Journal of Cosmetic Science. The product’s arnica montana extract brightens a bit, whereas the olive oil, apple extract, and green tea provide antioxidant protection.  Again, the product also has a silicone base, which makes it glide on easily (and hence eases further make-up application!)

However, unlike my favorite eye creams, MLA Eye Serum does not contain both retinol and vitamin K, which have been proven in this study to improve under-eye circles in approximately 93 percent of patients.  Considering that I’m a med student, I really want to get rid of dark circles, so I think I’ll stick to treatments with both retinol and vitamin K, like Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Cream.  Despite this, MLA Eye Serum really is a solid product, particularly for those with dry skin and a bit of saggy undereye skin (it won’t make it go away, but it will boost collagen production to hopefully firm that up somewhat).  Product Rating:  6/10 (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 2/3.  Unique formulation or new technology:  2/3.  Value for the money:  2/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).

Eye Serum Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Isopropyl Isostearate, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Diglycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Ceramide 2, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Chrysin, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Algae Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Ursolic Acid, Ilomastat, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract, HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Tribehenin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Pentylene Glycol, Polyacrylate 13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Steareth-20, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Ethylparaben.

Overall Opinions

MLA Skin Care is a solid line with high concentrations of clinically proven ingredients.  Add in the fact that the products apply well, feel great, and look amazing under cosmetics, and you have yourself a winning line.  While the product formulations vary somewhat on their research-proven efficacy, I do love the the MLA Multivitamin Serum and the MLA Power Cream.  It is my plan right now to use Cetaphil, Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, and LaRoche Posay Anthelios XL SPF 50+ in the morning, and Cetaphil, Green Cream Level 6, and waiting a few minutes before applying either the MLA Multivitamin Serum (if I’m leaving the house) or the MLA Power Cream (before I go to sleep) in the evening.   Either way, these MLA products are definitely great and high-quality, and I look forward to seeing what Dr. Amerian comes up with next!