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Recently, I went to New York City for Fashion Week, and I realized something horrible.
I forgot my beloved vitamin CE serum.
I went to Sephora, but considering that they don’t carry FutureDerm (boo) or Skinceuticals, I was at a loss. I asked for help, and the very kind gentleman there introduced me to one of their new products, Murad City Skin Overnight Detox Moisturizer.
Although it says it is an “overnight detox” product, Murad City Skin Overnight Detox Moisturizer is perfectly fine for daytime use for anyone with normal to dry skin. (Those with oily skin would honestly be better off with a lightweight serum for daytime use.)
Here’s my ingredient-based review and personal opinions:
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Penetrates the Skin More Deeply than L-Ascorbic Acid
In general, I stick with L-ascorbic acid as my go-to choice of vitamin C. But considering there are so many different stabilized varieties of vitamin C — magnesium ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl glucosamine (and others) — it wouldn’t be fair to not at least give another form of vitamin C a chance.
With that said, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is my favorite stabilized version of vitamin C. As published in Dermatologic Surgery, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate penetrates directly into the epidermis (the uppermost layer of skin) and dermis (the deepest layer of skin), even when it is not embedded in an alcohol-based solution or microencapsulated. This is different from plain L-ascorbic acid or most other stabilized forms of vitamin C, which tend to stay in the uppermost layer of skin.
Vitamin C is great for skin lightening, brightening, and tightening. (It rhymes, yes. But it’s still true.) According to Dr. Leslie Baumann‘s textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, there is only one study in the literature that studies the effects of vitamin C on wrinkles. In the study, CellexC with 10% L-ascorbic acid was used in a split-face study for three months, and was found to decrease wrinkles (as measured by photography assessments and optical profilometry). However, as Dr. Baumann states, “The study cannot be considered as a blinded study because a large population of the patients experienced stinging on the side treated with vitamin C. However, there was a significant difference in the wrinkles on the treated side versus the untreated side.” Baumann speculates reasons for this may be increased collagen synthesis or inflammation from the product.
Vitamin C has also been found to decrease hyperpigmentation, although a study in the International Journal of Dermatology found that 4% hydroquinone was more effective in treating melasma than vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid. However, a separate study, also in the International Journal of Dermatology, found that combination therapy of 4% hydroquinone, vitamin C, vitamin E, and 10% glycolic acid was effective in treating signs of hyperpigmentation.
So, overall, a product like Murad City Skin Overnight Detox Moisturizer should help with fine lines, wrinkles, age spots, and uneven pigmentation.
Glycerin, Shea Butter Esters, Jojoba Esters, and Beeswax = Ultra Hydrating
.Murad City Skin Overnight Detox Moisturizer also goes pretty heavy-duty on the hydrating ingredients, with glycerin, shea butter esters, jojoba esters, and beeswax amongst the first eight (read: most concentrated) ingredients in the formulation. That said, it is best for those with normal to dry skin. I wouldn’t go near this if I had oily or acne-prone skin.
Personal Use and Opinions
While I was in NYC for #nyfw, I really liked Murad City Skin Overnight Detox Moisturizer for the cold winter temperatures. For being so hydrating, it drank into the skin quickly, and it left a smooth (not sticky) finish.
Bottom LineMurad City Skin Overnight Detox Moisturizer is a pretty solid daytime or nighttime moisturizer for those with normal to dry skin who are concerned about fine lines, wrinkles, age spots, uneven pigmentation, some combination therein, or preventing those things from occurring.
Although I like Murad City Skin Overnight Detox Moisturizer, I do wish it contained vitamin E or coenzyme Q10, since vitamins C and E and coenzyme Q10 can stabilize one another in solution. Regardless, it’s a solid product, and I approve.
Ingredients in Murad City Skin Overnight Detox Moisturizer: Water, Glycerin, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Jojoba Esters, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Synthetic Beeswax, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Ectoin, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Allantoin, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Bisabolol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Xanthan Gum, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hexyldecanol, Pentylene Glycol, 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol, Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide, Stearic Acid, Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Limonene, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).