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NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate is the latest in “super-concentrated” skincare. Loaded with 12 peptides, two forms of vitamin C, a high concentration of niacinamide and glycation-fighting Albizia julibrissin extract, PLUS a unique delivery system, NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate is poised to become the latest and greatest treatment for the undereye region…or is it? I’ll give my full review below (and, hint, I’m not using it because of one ingredient mis-combination)…
Albizia Julibrissin is Great for Treating Signs of Glycation
Albizia julibrissin, also known as Silk Tree or Mimosa of Constantinople, is a tree native to East Asia and South America, but it was spread by the man on almost every continent (US Patent). It has been reported in various reputable journals to have antioxidant, anti-tumor and anti-inflammatory properties (Biochemistry and Medicinal Letters, Carbohydrate Research, Glycoconjugate Journal).
Primarily, however, Albizia Julibrissin has effects against glycation, which makes your collagen hard, brittle, and less resilient over time. Albizia julibrissin has two different anti-glycation mechanisms in the literature:
- First, a preventive effect against glycation, to prevent its implementation;
- Second, a reparative effect, called a “deglycating” effect or of “de- glycation”. This means that Albizia julibrissin can neutralize or detoxify the products as they are leading up to glycation, leading to a reparative effect on tired skin with in particular a loss of radiance and suppleness (US Patent).
Albizia Julibrissin is also gentle for the skin. There is a rumor that the fragrance of Albizia Julibrissin is derived from the compounds methyl salicylate, eugenol, linalool, and octanol, which are irritant substances, but this is not true. Albizia Julibrissin extract and seed oil are primarily comprised of fatty acid and triacylglycerol (Industrial Crops and Products, 2011). Any fragrance attributable to other compounds are in such minute concentrations, they are not likely at all to cause irritation: In fact, no direct case studies attributing irritation to Albizia Julibrissin have been published to date.
A Slew of Peptides for Skin Firming, Wrinkle Appearance-Reducing
There are also a lot of peptides in NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate that may be better at reducing the appearance of sun damage than glycation (which is what Albizia Julibrissin is likely included for)! The peptides are:
- Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate – a synthetic neuropeptide that may cause muscle relaxation (source)
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 AKA Synthe’6 – a peptide that may help with forehead wrinkles and crow’s feet (source)
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 – a neuropeptide that is often used as a muscle relaxer (source)
- Decapeptide-22 – the amino acids arginine, glutamine, glycine and proline (source)
- Oligopeptide-78 – a synthetic peptide consisting of the amino acids lycine, glycine and histidine (source); the amino acids found in Type II collagen (source)
- Palmitoyl Decapeptide-21 – may help to alleviate irritation (source)
- Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52 – a blend of the fatty acid palmitic acid with several amino acids, including glycine, histidine, and lysine (source)
- Zinc Palmitoyl Nonapeptide-14 – the zinc salt of the palmitic acid ester of Nonapeptide-14 (source)
- Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50
- Pentapeptide-18 – a synthetic peptide consisting of alanine, glycine, leucine, phenylalanine and tyrosine (source)
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-30 – a product obtained by the acetylation of Hexapeptide-30 (source)
- Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
- Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 – boosts collagen
One issue: I don’t use L-ascorbic acid with niacinamide
NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate contains vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid (a problem with niacinamide) and ascorbyl glucoside. Most vitamin C derivatives have to convert to L-ascorbic acid in order to have effects on the skin — ascorbyl glucoside included. This conversion process takes place after the derivates have penetrated into the skin. (Wouldn’t it be nice if they converted in the bottle?!) And because this conversion takes place within the skin, the pH of the surrounding solution or environment is no longer very low. However, the pH of skin is still acidic.[Read more: Why You Should Use Niacinamide Only with Reserveratrol]
Therefore, interactions between any converted L-ascorbic acid and its derivatives with niacinamide are still possible. Keep in mind that the rates of conversion and penetration of the various derivatives can vary drastically, meaning that some may be more prone to complexation than others.
While I’m a huge fan of DECIEM in general, I’m less impressed with their NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate. Despite having a super high concentration of proven ingredients and an amazing delivery system, they also neglected to not combine vitamin C and niacinamide, which is a no-no in my book.
That said, if you’re not a skincare fanatic who won’t use certain ingredients together out of principle (like me), then you are more likely to get positive effects than negative ones from using NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate. Amongst eye serums, it’s one of the best out there, even if it *may* produce a small amount of hydrogen peroxide.
Ingredients in NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate
Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Niacinamide, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Pentylene Glycol, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Decapeptide-22, Ogliopeptide-78, Palmitoyl Decapeptide-21, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52, Zinc Palmitoyl Nonapeptide-14, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50, Pentapeptide-18, Acetyl Hexapeptide-30, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18, Mu-Conotoxin CnIIIC, Sodium Hyaluronate, Darutoside, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Gallyl Glucoside, Propyl Gallate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Zinc PCA, Methylglucoside Phosphate, N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine-6-phosphate disodium salt, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Superoxide Dismutase, Escin, Ascorbic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Polyglucuronic Acid, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Plankton Extract, Arginine, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Lecithin, Polyvinyl Alcohol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Xanthan Gum, Silanetriol and Potassium Citrate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Sorbitol, Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenylpropanol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol.