Mineral makeup became many beauty aficionados’ favorites, as mineral-based cosmetics are considered to be safer and less harmful to skin. They are especially good for those who have acne-prone, sensitive skin and those who have rosacea due their safe, non-irritating ingredients. However, it’s important to know that there are no FDA regulations that set a standard or define what is to be “mineral makeup”. In fact, any makeup that contains one mineral ingredient can be advertised as “mineral makeup.” As smart consumers, it became vital for us to look at the ingredient list ourselves to identify whether a product is actually mineral makeup or just a misleading promotion.
Today I’m reviewing the Osmosis+ Colour Highlighting Quad. After I took a look at its ingredient list, which is right on the back of the package, I am happy to say that all of its ingredients are safe and irritant-free for the skin. Further, I’ve found some very beneficial ingredients in this highlighting quad that I almost want to call it a skincare product! (Plus, this 4-shade highlighter with so many goodies in it only costs $40.)
Retinyl palmitate is a member of the retinoid family that appears in solid or oil form in yellow or yellow-red color. Retinoids, as we call them, are another name for vitamin A. As a result, retinyl palmitate is sometimes also referred to as vitamin A palmitate. Just like vitamin C, our bodies don’t naturally produce vitamin A, so it’s vital to replenish the body and skin with retinol-rich products.
Retinyl palmitate is retinol bound to palmitic acid, so 0.1% retinyl palmitate is actually a far less active ingredient than 0.1% retinol. However, I think what I like the most about retinyl palmitate is its ability to accelerate the speed of skin cell circulation. A whole circulation, from the initial formation of a skin cell until it becomes a dead skin cell and peels off, typically takes about 28 days. Amazingly, retinyl palmitate can shorten the duration of this period to 14-16 days. In other words, it doubles the speed by which our skin produces new skin cells, which brings us thicker, glowing skin.
Ascorbyl palmitate is another ingredient in this highlighting quad that is highly beneficial to the skin. Ascorbyl palmitate is a form of vitamin C. When talking about vitamin C, most of our readers are probably more familiar with ascorbic acid, which is the most biologically active form of vitamin C. Yet, it is also the most unstable, especially when exposed to heat, light, oxygen, or acidic media. Also, it’s highly unstable in a water-based solution. As a result, multiple more stable and more skin-friendly derivatives were developed to replace ascorbic acid as skincare/cosmetics ingredient. Ascorbyl palmitate is one of them. It is derived from the chemical reaction of ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. Compared to ascorbic acid, it’s more stable when exposed to heat and light.
In addition, ascorbyl palmitate is also highly fat-soluble due to its sourcing of palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid. Researchers from Josai University in Japan described the lipophilic drug, another name for the fat-soluble chemical compound as, “A lipophilic drug has exceptional skin penetration but poor solubility.”
Due to these properties, ascorbyl palmitate became the perfect ingredient when it came to powdered cosmetics. It retains all the benefits which vitamin C has, such as increasing collagen production, scavenging free radicals, and helping decrease hyperpigmentation. At the same time, it is also stable enough to withstand exposure to light and heat in powder form.
The third ingredient I want to mention in this highlighter quad is tocopherol. Tocopherol is a compound that can either be naturally derived from vegetable oil, or made synthetically. It’s been scientifically proven that naturally-derived tocopherol works better than synthetic ones. In vegetables, tocopherol exists in four different forms – alpha, beta, gamma, and delta tocopherol. Only the alpha-tocopherol performs the vitamin E ability, which is being used in cosmetics and skincare products. Vitamin E is rich in antioxidants that help defend the skin from free-radicals. In skincare, vitamin E also helps strengthen our skin barrier by retaining the moisture in our skin and increase its water-binding capacity. But the main attraction about vitamin E, is its combination with vitamin C. When vitamin E pairs with vitamin C, it can boost vitamin C’s efficacy in fighting UV rays.
Research conducted by the Department of Dermatology of Mount Sinai Medical Center states, “Both are highly effective depigmenting agents. Topical vitamin C also increases collagen synthesis in both young and old fibroblasts. Because vitamin C regenerates oxidized vitamin E, the combination in a cosmeceutical formulation is synergistic – particularly in UV protection.”
Personal Use and Opinions
The Osmosis+ Colour Highlighting Quad is pretty mistake-proof. Because this product is pretty concentrated with both color and shimmer, I didn’t need to use a lot. I applied the bronze (copper shimmer) on the sides of my nose, around the edges of my face, and underneath my chin, like a dark shade of contour. I used the rose (blush shimmer) like, well, blush, and the pearl shimmer down the middle of my nose and in the corner of my eyes. I didn’t use the gold shimmer at all, although it is a good substitute for eyeshadow in the center of the eyelids.
With a full load of vitamins A, C, and E, Osmosis+ Colour Highlighting Quad is an absolute great product for everyone. With four different shades, you can either use the one that fits your skin tone, or you can play around with it by combining the four to create a magnificent shimmering effect. I highly enjoyed and recommend it!
Now I want to hear from you! What’s your favorite mineral makeup?