Beauty consumers are suddenly turning to supplements at an alarming rate, and they are in excellent company: over 75 percent of dermatologists and 66 percent of physicians admit to taking supplements, according to a 2011 survey published in United Press International. Despite the fact the U.S. FDA has yet to approve the claims sponsored by most supplements, physicians claim they most often use them to support their own “health and wellness.”
Right now, one of the best-selling supplements is Phyto Phytophanere (retail: $25.00 for 60 caplets, $50.00 for 120 caplets). According to Phyto in-house clinical testing of 20 volunteers, 95% of the volunteers have noticed an improvement of the state and aspect of hair after three months. Still, this is too small a sample size to base efficacy or even a purchase upon, which is where we come in!
The Ingredients Proven to Work
Vitamin E has long been suggested to aid the skin, though it has not been shown to promote wound healing, despite widespread belief otherwise. Vitamin E has been identified as the “predominant [naturally-occuring] antioxidant” in human skin, naturally produced in the sebum. A study in Free Radical Biology and Medicine found that vitamin E also reduces the amount of matrix metalloproteinase (i.e., collagen-degrading enzyme) formation in the skin, whether used alone or in conjunction with other ingredients.
The supplements also contain borage oil, which has been shown in a German study to reduce symptoms of atopic dermatitis (i.e., a condition characterized by dry, scaly, itchy skin). In the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, borage oil was found to reduce levels of inflammation in the skin of guinea pigs. It was discovered that the anti-inflammatory effect of borage oil was similar to that of esters of omega-3 and omega-6 (similar to those in fish oils), but borage oil additionally caused for the specific incorporation of two more anti-inflammatory reagents into the skin, namely DGLA15-HEPE (dihomogammalinolenic acid) and 17-HDoHE (17-hydroxydocosahexaenoic acid).
The Ingredient that Doesn’t Quite Make the Cut
Although increased carrot consumption has been associated with increased attractiveness in a recent study (no kidding!), the research on carrot oil and beta-carotene supplements has been similarly amusing. Although beta-carotene supplements have been recommended to patients with UV-sensitive conditions like photoporphyria, the truth of the matter is that most of the studies have failed to convincingly demonstrate the efficacy of the supplements, as confirmed by a review in Archives of Biochemistry and Biophysics.
There has actually been evidence that beta-carotene may harm the skin. According to Free Radical Biology and Medicine, the application of beta-carotene to the skin was found to actually increase matrix metalloproteinase (collagen-degrading enzyme formation by 1.5 to 2 times! However, it is unlikely that Phyto Phytophanere supplements have this effect, as the study also found vitamin E prevented this potentially collagen-upsetting activity of beta-carotene.
Bottom Line
I’m not a big fan of Phyto Phytophanere. Yes, it has some effective anti-inflammatory ingredients, and it has gotten good reviews. However, if you are willing to spend a little more, I would personally rather invest in a good multivitamin, fish oil (proven to reduce inflammation somewhat), biotin supplement (proven to stimulate nail growth), and a proven UV protection-boosting supplement. As always, talk to your doctor before beginning this or any other supplement or diet regimen.
Other articles that may interest you:
Gelatin, Carrot Oil In Sunflower Oil With Rosmary Extract, Acerola Extract Enriched With Vitamin C.
Strengthening:
Glycerin, Borage Seed Oil At 20% GLA, Hydrogenated Soybean Oil, Fish Oil, Rice Bran Oil, D,L-Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate, Yeast, Wheat Germ Oil, Calcium Pantothenate.
Emulgator:
Soybean Lecithin (Gluten), Orizanol, Pyridoxine Chlorhydrate, Riboflavine, Biotin, Colors: E 171,E 172, Cereal Flavor.