Product Review: Aveda Enbrightenment Skin Care

Ascorbyl glucoside: an effective antioxidant

According to a 2006 study published in Analytica Chemica Acta, ascorbyl glucoside, a relatively new vitamin C derivative in skin care formulations, undergoes conversion to ascorbic acid (by phosphatase in the basal membrane of the epidermis) like other vitamin C derivatives, including magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.  What makes ascorbyl glucoside unique, according to the study in Analytica Chemica Acta, is that ascorbyl glucoside undergoes this conversion in a slower, sustained manner than other derivatives, enabling the vitamin C to stay in the system longer than the other forms of vitamin C.  Unfortunately, ascorbyl glucoside is only available in cosmetic products in concentrations up to 2%.  With that said, it is still unknown how the efficacy of a 2% ascorbyl glucoside formulation compares to a 15% ascorbic acid solution. What is known is that ascorbyl glucoside does have antioxidant activity, as a 2006 study in The Journal of the Chinese Chemical Society verifies its significant antioxidant activity using flow injection analysis on a copper-enriched printed circuit board, and a very recent 2009 study in Skin Research and Technology demonstrates that 2% ascorbyl glucoside and 3.5% niacinamide in combination has significant lightening effect on the skin, which is enhanced further with physician-administered ultrasound treatments (to increase absorption of the ingredients in the skin).

Glucosamine for age spots/hyperpigmentation

According to the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, glucosamine has been found to inhibit melanin production in the skin by down-regulating melanin gene expression.  Although the exact mechanism by which this occurs is not known, it is speculated that glucosamine plays a role in inhibiting enzymatic glycosylation, a required step in converting inactive human pro-tyrosinase to the active tyrosinase (and tyrosinase is a key enzyme in the production of melanin).

Glucosamine in combination with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants may also be somewhat helpful in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.  According to a 2001 study in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment, glucosamine and antioxidant oral supplements reduced the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by a statistically significant 35% amongst 53 women when taken daily.  The exact formulation was not revealed, but contained glucosamine, vitamin C, vitamin E, selenium, zinc, manganese, and quercitin.  It was, however, also noted in the study that the oral supplement did not increase skin’s hydration, and only decreased the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

One final word about glucosamine:  in a 2002 study published in the journal Dermatology amongst 50 women of Asian descent with solar lentigines, it was found that a stabilized soy extract was better at lightening the spots than either a combination of 5% ascorbyl glucosamine, 1% kojic acid and hydroxyacid esters or a 20% azelaic acid formulation.

Brown Algae for Collagen Preservation?

The Parisian research team of Senni, Godeau et. al. has demonstrated that fucoidan (an extract derived from brown algae) is able to stimulate the cells that make collagen (dermal fibroblasts) in cell culture (in vitro).  In addition, the team has found that fucoidan is able to inhibit the actual breakdown of collagen (by producing interleukin-1β , effectively inhibiting gelatinase A secretion and stromeylsin induction, which normally break down collagen) in cell culture (in vitro).  Fucoidan also increases the rates in which matrix metalloproteinases associate with their inhibitors…and yes, if you are thinking that this sounds like Patricia Wexler’s skin care line, which attempts to preserve collagen by preventing collagen breakdown with matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors, you would be correct!

Unfortunately, these findings are limited to cell culture and have not been applied to any clinical studies as of yet (as least not any that I have been able to find!)  With that said, brown algae (and fucoidan extract) may be a promising ingredient in the future, depending on what future research studies demonstrate.

Salicyclic Acid to Improve the Absorption of Other Ingredients

Salicyclic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid, is commonly found in cleansers and exfoliators.  It is lipid-soluble (i.e., oil-soluble).  According to Dr. Brannon,  a family-practice physician with a specialty in Dermatology, this means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pores better than many other ingredients.  Salicyclic acid has also reported to improve signs of aging including wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photodamaged skin with at least 6 months of daily application.

According to DermNetNZ, salicylic acid works by penetrating into the skin and softening keratin, a protein that forms part of the skin structure. This helps to loosen dry scaly skin, increasing cell turnover and effectively renewing the skin.   In conjunction with ascorbyl palmitate, glucosamine, and brown algae, salicyclic acid may help the other ingredients penetrate the skin better, increasing their efficacy.

Personal Use and Opinions

I tend to break out or get contact dermatitis when I try a lot of different products, so I got a family member to try the entire Aveda Enbrightenment Skin Care line for a month.  She is in her mid-sixties and naturally beautiful, but the products really helped her skin look luminous, glowing, and more even.  She is very happy with the results, and loves it so much, I can’t get her to switch back to a daytime moisturizer with SPF (not good)!   However, while she uses the cleanser, masque (bi-weekly), and toner at night, with the advice of her dermatologist, she still uses a retinol treatment ([easyazon_link identifier=”B000PHP864″ locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]Green Cream Level 6[/easyazon_link] ($42.95, [easyazon_link identifier=”B000PHP864″ locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]Amazon.com[/easyazon_link])), and then the Aveda Enbrightenment nighttime moisturizer.

Product Rating

7/10. (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 2.5/3 – concentrations of active ingredients not specified.  New technology: 3/3 – has more scientific studies backing its ingredients than other organic or natural skin care products.   Value for the money: 1.5/3 – rather expensive.  Sunscreen: 0/1).