Nowadays, it seems that everyone is talking about Dermalogica products. One of the products, Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream ($51.66, Amazon.com) claims to be “a medium-weight cream that maintains skin’s moisture balance while improving its texture.” Based on scientific research studies of the ingredients, is the product as great as many are saying?
Vitamin A as retinyl palmitate
Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream contains vitamin A in the form of retinyl palmitate. According to a 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 0.6% retinyl palmitate was less effective in penetrating human skin than 0.025% retinol (these concentrations are similar to those found in many over-the-counter skincare formulations). In addition, another study found retinol is 20 times less potent than prescription retinoic acid in the skin. However, even though retinyl palmitate is less potent than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit the collagen-stimulating, smoothing, and wrinkle-reducing properties of retinol over time, and has also been shown to be less irritating.
Numerous antioxidants
Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream contains vitamin C as ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin E as tocopherol acetate, and numerous other “natural” sources of antioxidants, including bitter orange extract, grape seed extract and cucumber fruit extract. Because vitamin C and E are network antioxidants, they synergistically enhance the power of one another, making this a more potent antioxidant cream than either vitamin C or vitamin E alone. Unfortunately, Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream does not list its concentration of vitamin C or vitamin E; however, the product should still be a highly effective antioxidant treatment, especially with the inclusion of the other antioxidant ingredients.
Very hydrating…but missing sunscreen
Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream contains dimethicone, aloe, lecithin, silk amino acids and sodium hyaluronate — a very hydrating cream indeed, which is affirmed by user reviews at SkinStore.com. Unfortunately, Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream contains not contain a sunscreen and contains retinyl palmitate, which makes the skin more sensitive to sun damage. Considering that the sun is the number one cause of premature skin aging and exacerbates formation of skin cancer, sunscreen is essential in the morning skin care régimé, and even more important (if that is possible) when using a product containing any form of retinol. However, because of the hydrating nature of Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream, one may not wish to use a sunscreen over it; therefore, perhaps Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream is best used at night.
Egg yolk extract
According to Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetics Dictionary, egg yolk extract is a protein with emulsifying properties used in formulations for sensitive skin. Egg yolk extract in skin care formulations temporarily tightens the skin, but the effect does not last, as the skin is not able to take up the large protein. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, only molecules of molecular weight 5000 or less can penetrate the skin. However, according to this report from VWRSP.com, chicken egg whites have a molecular weight of 14300 Daltons; therefore, the egg yolk extract protein would only temporarily tighten the skin, as it could not penetrate through the skin. According to Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetics Dictionary, some patients with egg allergies also exhibit reactions when using products with egg yolk extract, and therefore those individuals should avoid this product.
In summary…
Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream is a good source of antioxidants, retinyl palmitate, and egg yolk extract, which will temporarily firm and tighten skin. Unfortunately, the hydrating nature of the cream, combined with the fact that it does not contain a sunscreen, does not make it a good candidate to wear during the day. As such, Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream is a good source of many ingredients that are proven to be effective, but is best used as a night cream only. In comparison to another product with lots of antioxidants, like Paula’s Choice Antioxidant Serum, I would personally go with Paula’s Choice Antioxidant Serum for the daytime, because it can be worn under sunscreen. Product rating: 8/10 (network antioxidants and a source of retinyl palmitate, but no sunscreen)
Ingredients (courtesy Skinstore.com)
Water, Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Butylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, PEG-8, Lactamide MEA, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Dimethicone, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cetearyl Alcohol, Extracts Of : Citrus Aurantium Amara (bitter Orange) Flower, Vitis Vinifera (grape) Seed Malva Sylvestris (mallow), Hedera Helix (ivy), Cucumis Sativus (cucumber) Fruit, Sambucus Nigra Flower, Arnica Montana Flower, Parietaria Officinalis, Camellia Oleifera Leaf; Essential Oils Of: Zea Mays (corn), Cananga Odorata Flower, Egg Yolk Extract, Lecithin, Silk Amino Acids, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyquaternium-10, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Aminomethyl Propanol, Allantoin, Panthenol, Glycolipids, Glyceryl Stearate, Carbomer, Sodium Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/glycerin Crosspolymer, Methylparaben, Disodium EDTA, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Linalool, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Farnesol, Geraniol.