In 1991, the Elizabeth Arden company premiered a blend of ceramides into their skin care products, designed to strengthen, exfoliate, retexturize and moisturize the skin. In addition, the company’s antioxidant E and retinyl complex are designed to improve and prevent the signs of aging over time.
Are ceramides as good as they sound?
According to Tony Vargas, Vice-President of Elizabeth Arden Research and Development, Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules Intensive Treatment for Face and Neck contain a new CLX complex, said to deliver ceramides, phytosphingosines and essential lipids. According to Vargas, Ceramide 1 helps strengthen skin’s appearance, Ceramide 6 helps exfoliate and retexturize, and Ceramide 3 helps the skin hold essential moisture. In addition, the essential fatty acids (linolenic and linoleic acids) and phytosphygosine to help restore skin’s barrier repair functions, which renew and repair the skin.
An article in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science largely validates Vargas’ claims that ceramides replenish reduced ceramide levels (particularly the phytosphingosine-containing ceramides) and levels of long-chain fatty acids. Further, a 2002 study by dePaepe et. al. found that the barrier repair function was enhanced by the presence of ceramide 3, but that a combination of ceramides 3, 3b, and 6 together with phytosphingosine, cholesterol, and the free fatty acid linoleic acid (like that found in Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules) restored barrier repair function more efficiently than ceramide 3 alone. Therefore, the product should be highly efficient in renewing and repairing the skin.
However, according to a 2000 study by the same author, it was found that moisturizers incorporating ceramide 3 had no greater effect on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) than ordinary lotions without ceramide 3. Further, in a 2002 study it was noted that even moisturizers with ceramide 3, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, and the free fatty acid linoleic acid like those in this Elizabeth Arden product did not restore transepidermal water loss more than standard lotion ingredients. However, ceramides, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, and linoleic acid are all considered to be water-binding ingredients, so the product should still increase moisture levels in the skin.
Does the product have superior anti-aging benefits?
Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules have “Double Retinol technology” to smooth lines and wrinkles and improve skin clarity. The “Double Retinol technology” is a blend of retinyl palmitate and Elizabeth Arden’s patented retinyl linoleate. Retinyl palmitate is a combination of pure retinol and palmitic acid (a substance typically used in cosmetics as a cleansing agent). It must be converted to retinaldehyde and then all-trans retinoic acid within the skin in order to be effective. However, when present in sufficiently high concentrations (as it appears to be in this product), retinyl palmitate reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and acts as an antioxidant protecting against future damage. In addition, the product’s retinyl linoleate is a blend of retinol and linoleic acid, which is a fatty acid that provides some emollient and antioxidant benefits, according to Paula Begoun, “the Cosmetics Cop”. When present in sufficient concentrations, retinyl linoleate should provide benefits similar to that of retinol, with additional hydrating benefits.
The product also contains vitamin E, a proven antioxidant. Vitamin E is a network antioxidant, meaning that it is a more potent antioxidant when it is used in combination with any of the following: vitamin C, glutathione, lipoic acid, or coenzyme Q10. Since Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules only contain one ingredient from this list, the product is a less potent antioxidant source than other products containing two or more network antioxidants, such as Skinceuticals C E Ferulic.
The final ingredient, Borage Seed Extract, is extremely soothing.
So, overall, to buy or not to buy?
Despite the disappointing efficacy of ceramides and fatty acids against transepidermal water loss, and the fact that there is only one antioxidant, this is an excellent product. It is a great source of over-the-counter strength retinoids, hydrating (“moisture-binding”) ingredients, and it comes in a very simple formulation (see “ingredients” below) that many should find appealing. If you are looking for a hydrating source of over-the-counter strength retinoids, this product is excellent.
If you do not currently use antioxidants or sunscreen, you may wish to use a more potent antioxidant lotion or serum in the morning (as found in the coffee berry in Revalé Skin, the idebenone in Prevage or the network antioxidants in Skinceuticals C E Ferulic) under a UVA/UVB broad-spectrum sunscreen (an excellent choice is Neutrogena Ultra-Sheer Dry Touch SPF 70), and use Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules at night. Overall, an excellent over-the-counter source of retinoids and hydration! 9/10.
Ingredients:
CLX Complex, Linolinic Acid, Linolaic Acid, Phytosphingosines, Retinyl Linoleate, Retinyl Palmitate, Borage Seed Extract, Vitamin E