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Product Review: Garnier Nutritioniste Anti Sun Damage Moisture Lotion SPF 28

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According to the advertisements, Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula ($12.99, Walgreens.com) will help to reverse signs of past sun damage like fine lines, discolorations, and sun spots, as well as protect against future damage.

The product claims to contain 2x the vitamin C of the usual Garnier Nutritioniste formulas. Garnier Nutritioniste products seem to always use vitamin C in the form of ascorbyl glucoside, which has been found to be more stable than L-ascorbic acid at a wider range of pH and temperatures. While it has been found that ascorbyl glucoside has the collagen-stimulating, antioxidant, skin-lightening effects of L-ascorbic acid, the only downside is that the exact concentration of ascorbyl glucoside in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is not given, whereas it is established in certain L-ascorbic acid formulations like Cellex-C contain 15% L-ascorbic acid.

Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula also contains magnesium. Magnesium has been shown to improve barrier function recovery in the skin of mice, and the company claims that magnesium also “energizes and hydrates” the skin.

The last main ingredient, lycopene, I have mixed feelings about. On the one hand, lycopene, the caroten that gives tomatoes its red pigment, has been reported by Dr. G. Todorov to be the best antioxidant among carotens, with at least twice the free-radical scavenging ability as ß-carotene. Lycopene also serves as a natural sunscreen, providing a UVB of about 3, and it is speculated that lycopene could improve cell-to-cell junctions, theoretically improving skin’s texture. A 2002 study by Offord et. al. further found that lycopene and vitamin E together, as in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, can suppress the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (collagen-digesting) mRNA. Unfortunately, the use of lycopene at all is questionable at this time, as a 2005 study by Yeh et. al demonstrated that topical application of lycopene “enhances UVA-induced oxidative stress in [mouse] fibroblast (skin) cells, and…under UVA irradiation, lycopene may produce oxidative products that are responsible for the prooxidant effects.” Although this study was done on the mouse, based on these results and similar from Offord et. al., it does not seem advisable to use lycopene in skin care products at this time.

According to reviews of Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, the product is light, non-greasy, and smells delightful. Women largely report after a few weeks’ use that their skin feels softer and smoother. However, the eradication of age spots may take a while, as blogger E. Harmon notes that she had not noticed a “huge difference in the tone or brightness” of her skin, although notes that the effect may occur “with continued use over time.” I think it all depends on the amount of ascorbyl glucoside in the product, which hasn’t been reported.

Overall, I think Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is a quality product, though it may not be as effective as products with a higher concentration of vitamin C, like Cellex-C. Still, it should improve skin’s texture, provide sun protection, and may eradicate sun spots over time. I give it a solid 7/10 (high concentration of proven ingredients: 1.5/3. New technology: 1.5/3, for the as-of-yet questionable inclusion of lycopene. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 1/1.)

Ingredients in Garnier Nutritioniste Anti Sun Damage Moisture Lotion SPF 28

Water; Isononyl Isononanote; Glycerin; Cyclohexasiloxane; Propylene Glycol; Ethylhexyl Palmitate; Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate; Butylene Glycol; Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; Dimethicone; Nylon-66; Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer; Glyceryl Stearate; Behenyl Alcohol; Solanium Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract*; Ascorbyl Glucoside**; Tocopheryl Acetate; Actindia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Water; Rosa Canina Fruit Oil; Capryloyl Salicylic Acid; Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate; Caprylyl Glycol; Magnesium PCA***; Manganese PCA***; Mica; Sodium PCA***; Titanium Dioxide; Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethyl Isosorbide; PEG-8 Laurate; Disodium EDTA; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Octyldodecanol; Polycaprolactone; Sodium Citrate; Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate; Sodium Hydroxide; Xanthan Gum; Methylparaben; Propylparaben; Butylparaben; Fragrance; Linalool; Benzyl Salicylate; Limonene; Geraniol; Citral; *Lycopene; **Vitamin C; ***Magnesium

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