Product Review: Kinerase C8 Solutions Kit

Reviews, Skin Care
Kinerase C8 Peptide Kit FutureDerm sensitive skin product review



I’ll admit it: Before creating my own line, as a beauty blogger for seven years, I tried a lot of products, and would get really sensitive skin at times. During those times, I turned to my favorite soothing ingredients — oatmeal extract, niacinamide, green tea, Dragocalm, and kinetin. Formulated with more kinetin than any other line I could find, Kinerase does a great job at providing soothing and anti-aging action. The Kinerase C8 Solutions Kit ($119, soothes the face and undereye area with a two-part face and undereye treatment.

Kinetin: Anti-Aging Protection Like 0.02% Tretinoin (but Not 0.04% or Higher)

Kinetin has often been touted as a “sensitive skin alternative to retinoids.” Published research shows 0.1% kinetin (as in Kinerase products) may be more effective than 0.02% tretinoin, but not more effective than 0.04%-1% tretinoin. Like retinoids, kinetin increases the rate of cell cycle and can induce the synthesis of DNA repair enzymes (Cosmetic Dermatology).

However, in a 2004 review by HA Epstein, a summary of similar studies comparing patients’ opinions about Renova (tretinoin) to kinetin found that signs of photoaging (skin roughness, mottling, and fine wrinkling) doubled when Renova was used with kinetin, versus kinetin alone.

An Effective Antioxidant that Mimics Superoxide Dismutase

A free radical is an unstable molecule that damages surrounding molecules FutureDerm Diagram

Kinetin is shown to be a strong inhibitor of damage in skin cells by mimicking a powerful antioxidant in the skin known as superoxide dismutase. Among other things, superoxide dismutase activates enzymes that breakdown free radicals, including superoxide dismutase and catalase.

Unfortunately, no published independent studies compare the antioxidant capacity of kinetin to potent antioxidants such as coffee berry, green tea, vitamin C or vitamin E.

When Do You Use Kinetin vs. Retinoids?

When my skin is feeling super sensitive, I use kinetin, oatmeal, green tea, Dragocalm, and niacinamide alone.

As soon as it starts to feel a little better, I add in a retinoid, but still continue to use kinetin and the other soothing agents.

Once my skin is back to normal, I’m back to the full-fledged superfecta of powerful antioxidants, retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids (though not at the same time as retinoids), niacinamide, and peptides.

Bottom Line

When my skin is feeling ultra sensitive, I reach for this treatment serum. It’s great for the temporary irritation that can occur with regular use of retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, and even after lasers or chemical peels. In short, I’m a fan of the Kinerase C8 Solutions Kit, and maintain results with it when potent anti-agers get to be too much for my skin.

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  • melissa r

    I have used every expensive lotion for the face from Kinerase to Clarins but the Made from Earth Vitamin Moisturizer really is the best. It has the crucial ingredients, collagen and elastin and really replenish my skin and make it look and feel like I am 20s again (I am 41). The scent is also very light and very pleasant as I am trying to avoid heavy, perfume laden creams and lotions.

  • Maria

    Hi Nicki – I’ve since read your less than glowing review of the Clinique Repairwear so sorry for duplicate question there. I’ll seRch for your info on Matrixyl 3000 but if you have anything g new to share regarding products contain g Matrixyl 3000 that would be great. I’ve heard the 3000 is a combination of 2 peptides — I need firming help! ( especially since I mistakenly had a Radio Frequency session) ThNks !

  • Maria

    Hi Nicki – thank you! I am very interested in Matrixyl and I’ve read that it’s Matrixyl 3000 that’s the best. I don’t know which products contain this however. When I’ve looked for products with peptides, I’ve tried Olay and I’m now trying Clinique Laserfocus Uplifting Firming cream… I like the feel of Clinique better but there don’t seem to be any peptides! They list rice and soy proteins.
    —have you ever reviewd Clinique Uplifting and Firming cream?
    – can you recommend a product with Matrixyl 3000?
    Thank you !

  • Nicki Zevola

    Hi @Ruby —

    You’re welcome! Anytime!

    I can’t take credit for those drawings though — that’s the work of our amazing designers, Meredith Komarek and Erin McCandless. These ladies are super talented!

    All the best,

  • Nicki Zevola

    Hi @Maria —

    There are no studies demonstrating that kinetin and retinoids together will have a greater effect than either ingredient alone, at least not to the best of my knowledge.

    Kinetin works by increasing cell turnover and as an antioxidant. Retinoids work by increasing cell turnover, as an antioxidant, and by decreasing matrix metalloproteinase (enzymes that degrade collagen) activity within the skin. If you use kinetin alone, adding retinoids can give you some effect by decreasing matrix metalloproteinases. But if you use retinoids alone, particularly at a high dose, you’re not going to benefit much, if at all, from adding kinetin.

    If you’re “tapped out” on retinoids, I recommend one of the following:
    1.) If you’re concerned about signs of aging, add in peptides. Peptides like Matrixyl, Lumixyl, and Haloxyl have been found to make a profound difference on fine lines, wrinkles, and signs of hyperpigmentation/blood pooling in the skin. Because many peptides are too large to actually penetrate the skin, but the studies are so plentiful (and so many of them are actually relevant to skin science), I suspect they may be signaling within the skin — something retinoids do not do.

    2.) Add in more antioxidants. I of course love vitamin C and E (I think half of this blog is about them!), but there are also potent antioxidant ingredients like coenzyme Q10, CoffeeBerry, arbutin, kojic acid, idebenone, niacinamide, green tea, white tea, red tea, grape seed extract — the list goes on and on and on. While you are using retinoids as your main course, think of antioxidants like side dishes or desserts you can switch in and out to try different things.

    3.) Switch to an AHA for 3-4 months, then back to the retinoids. I personally don’t recommend doing this, and not because I sell a retinol, but because there does not seem to be any long-term benefit to doing so. Continuing the diet analogy, this is like healthy dieting for years but realizing you aren’t losing weight. So for 3-4 months you go to eat junk food, and then starting your healthy diet again just so you feel and see effects. Not the best idea, but it does work.

    Hope that helps,

  • Nicki Zevola

    Hi @Robin —

    Retinoids make the skin more sensitive to the sun because they increase the rate of cell turnover. Over time (weeks to months), retinoids also will stimulate collagen production within the skin, making it thicker. But in the short term, before that stimulation occurs, the skin is temporarily thinner,

    Since kinetin also increases the rate of cell turnover, this means it will similarly increase skin thickness over time, but temporarily cause sun sensitivity and thinner skin in the short term.

    Does that make sense? Let me know if it doesn’t!

    All the best,

  • Hi…getting away from the product for the moment, I really like the explanation of what a free radical is, and does. I haven’t seen it explained as simply as this before, and it now make sense to me – thanks a lot Nicki!

  • Maria

    Hi Nicki – does kinetin along with retinol actually increase the effectiveness of a retinoid alone? I have the posited problem of wanting to up the effectiveness of retin a/ tazorac as my skin has developed a tolerance. Thanks!

  • Robin

    Great post. I never used any product with Kinetin. Do you know wheather it increases sun-sensitivity like retinol ?

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