Although you may not be thinking of sunscreen in the winter months, think again: damaging UV rays can bounce off of the opaque snow, right onto your face. Furthermore, about fifty percent of UV rays penetrate through car and home windows, contributing to the majority of cumulative sun damage year-round. With that said, you really do need to be wearing sunscreen every single day, even in the winter. Is L’Oréal Revitalift UV with Mexoryl SX SPF 15 ($18.85, SaleAwaySavings.com) worth your money? Or are there other sunscreens on the market that provide better UVA and/or UVB protection?
What is Mexoryl?
Mexoryl (ecamsule) is an ingredient in chemical sunscreens that has been available in Europe for many years, and which came to the U.S. only this year. Mexoryl, available as SX (water soluble) and XL (lipid soluble), is very effective for two reasons: one, it is very stable [as a benzylidene camphor derivative], and two, because it absorbs light at a broader range of UVA wavelengths than many other sunscreens. After absorbing light from this broad spectrum, ecamsule undergoes photoisomerization, followed by photoexcitation, which means that it causes for UV light to be released as thermal energy rather than allowing for UV light to be absorbed into the skin and cause damage, as most chemical sunscreens do. Additionally, Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL are even more stable than each alone; however, Mexoryl XL is often too oily for some with sensitive skin, and so only Mexoryl SX is featured in L’Oréal products sold in the U.S.
Until FDA approval in 2006, Mexoryl was not available in the U.S., and many who knew of their high PD and PPD ratings from Europe ordered products (like LaRoche Posay Anthelios SX, $29.00, Dermstore.com) with Mexoryl SX and/or Mexoryl XL online. However, the coveted ingredient is today available in the U.S. in sunscreens by L’Oreal, such as L’Oréal Revitalift UV with Mexoryl SX SPF 15.
Does Mexoryl feature the best UVA protection on the market at this time?
At this time, products in the U.S. do not quantify the amount of UVA protection in a product, so this is hard to determine from published data. However, products in the U.S. must feature UVA protection on a 1-to-4-star scale by 2009. Already in Europe, the IPD (immediate pigment darkening assay) and the PFA or PPD (persistent pigment darkening assay) are used to assess UVA protection.
In a 2004 study by Moyal, it was demonstrated that products containing Mexoryl (chemical name Ecamsule) had higher UVA protection than sunscreens without Mexoryl. However, these Mexoryl-containing sunscreens were not compared to Neutrogena sunscreens with Helioplex. Helioplex is a stabilized, patented combination of oxybenzone and avobenzone that has been demonstrated in clinical tests to provide longer-lasting UVA protection than most other sunscreens. In comparing mexoryl and Helioplex, Neutrogena Ultra Sheer SPF 70 has been reported to have a PFA value of 23.3 or 26.5, interestingly higher than the reported PFA value of 10 for Mexoryl SX and XL in combination. Based on the current reported PFA data, it seems that Neutrogena Ultra Sheer SPF 70 provides better UVA protection than Mexoryl; however, these numbers are only speculative, as they have not been directly compared in any known independent published study.
Is SPF 15 enough UVB protection?
A 1997 study by Stokes et al. cited by Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, it was found that most users achieve a mean SPF of between 20 and 50 percent of that expected from the product label, because they do not apply the sunscreen as thickly as in laboratory conditions (2 mg/square centimeter of skin, or 30 mL of sunscreen over the average human body). Baumann instructs patients to estimate their UVB protection by multiplying the SPF by one-third; therefore, the L’Oréal product contains only an SPF of about 5 for the average user.
One caveat about sunscreen…
Most dermatologists recommend stimulating synthesis of adequate levels of vitamin D with ten to fifteen minutes of sunscreen-free sun exposure at least two times per week to the face, arms, hands, or back without sunscreen, and taking vitamin D supplements, particularly in the winter months in colder areas. Vitamin D is important for promoting calcium absorption, and works in concert with a number of other vitamins, minerals, and hormones to promote bone mineralization. Insufficient levels of vitamin D have been associated with rickets in children and osteomalacia in adults. As such, wear sunscreen daily, but sneak in 10-15 minutes of sunscreen-free exposure between 9 AM and 4 PM at least twice a week. More is available about sunscreens in this article from October, 2007.
What sunscreens are better than L’Oréal Revitalift UV with Mexoryl SX SPF 15?
Two of my favorite sunscreens are:
1. La Roche-Posay Anthelios Fluide Extreme ($45.00, Skincarelab.com), which contains both Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL for extra-stable UVA protection and an SPF of 50+ for ultra UVB protection (50+ is the highest SPF rating in European countries!). Unfortunately, Mexoryl XL is not good for those with oily skin, so beware.
2. Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70 ($18.49 for two, Amazon.com), which contains Helioplex, i.e., a stabilized combination of avobenzone and oxybenzone for excellent UVA protection, and an SPF of 70 for excellent UVB protection. It is also quite a bit cheaper than the La Roche-Posay Anthelios Fluide Extreme product.
As such, don’t forget to wear your sunscreen every day, even during the holiday season (!). Furthermore, consider a product with Mexoryl SX and XL first if you do not have oily skin (it is more stable), or a product with Mexoryl SX and a higher SPF (for added UVB protection). Happy holidays!