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If you have skin that is in good to great condition and are looking for a solid BB cream, then the Miracle Skin Transformer SPF 20 ($48.00, Amazon.com) may quickly become one of your favorites, so long as you are looking for a matte finish and don’t mind reapplying during the day. It lasts about 3-4 hours, so long as you don’t touch your face during the day. (It does rub off on cell phones).
If your skin is in sub-par condition, then you may want to use the Miracle Skin Transformer SPF 20 as a primer. Its silicone base means that it is light enough to wear under makeup.
Why You Should Never Use a BB Cream as Your Only Anti-Aging Treatment
While beneficial skin care ingredients can have some documented effects in cosmetics with a silicone base, the effects will not be as profound as if the ingredients were in creams or serums with other delivery systems. This makes sense, but I was never sure until I read reports micronized zinc oxide cannot penetrate the skin if it is presented in creams with silicones (Dermatologic Therapy, 2007). If micronized zinc oxide cannot penetrate the skin, then I wouldn’t imagine many other cosmetics ingredients embedded in silicones could either.
Still, even though ingredients in silicone-based BB creams can’t penetrate the skin well, I’d still rather have them there than not at all. I just wouldn’t depend on the BB creams as my only source of beneficial skin care ingredients.
Of all the ingredients in Miracle Skin Transformer SPF 20, I’m most impressed with ubiquinone. Ubiquinone levels have been documented to decrease upon UV exposure, according to the journal Free Radical Biology and Medicine. But ubiquinone is an important, powerful, naturally-occurring antioxidant in the skin. Ubiquinone is what is called a network antioxidant, meaning that it can regenerate other antioxidants, including vitamin C, vitamin E, coenzyme Q-10, and alpha lipoic acid. This may all sound like a science experiment, but in truth, it’s real – and I’m a huge fan of the antioxidant. Now, if only it weren’t in a silicone base…
Despite outlandish reports from the Environmental Working Group in 2010, retinyl palmitate in sunscreens was later proven NOT to cause cancer. In an August 2011 review titled Safety of retinyl palmitate in sunscreens: A critical study, published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, it was explained retinyl palmitate is safe and there is no evidence to prove retinyl palmitate increases the risk of skin cancer in humans.
On the other hand, I’m iffy about using retinyl palmitate during the day. I’ll do it if I have to – i.e., if the product is great otherwise – but I’m not a huge fan. Not because I believe it causes skin cancer (I don’t), but because retinol makes the skin photosensitive. Now, retinyl palmitate has been shown to be 20 times weaker than retinol, so any sensitization should be low. But still.
Miracle Skin Transformer SPF 20 is a miracle for those with pretty good skin to begin with, and a solid primer for those who desire a little more coverage. I wish it came in more than seven shades and had a complementary serum you could use under it – too many women are under the impression that BB creams are equivalent to treatment creams and serums, when in fact much of the key ingredients will just rest on top of your skin, rather than be absorbed into the skin.
Still, it’s better to get these ingredients where you can – just don’t make BB cream your only source of them. Overall, I like Miracle Skin Transformer SPF 20 for its natural, mildly mattefying, temporary softening and cosmetic effects, but I wouldn’t use it thinking it will transform fine lines, wrinkles, age spots, or other signs of hyperpigmentation anytime soon.
Product Rating: 8/10
- High or optimized concentration of key ingredients: 3/3
- Unique formulation or new technology: 2/3
- Value: 2/3
- Sunscreen: 1/1
Active Ingredients: Octinoxate 7.5%, Octisalate 5.0%, Oxybenzone 2.0%, Zinc Oxide 1.5%. Ingredients: Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Methicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Water/Eau, Dicaprylyl Ether, Boron Nitride, Octyldodecanol, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Glycerin, Dimethiconol, Ubiquinone, Tapioca Starch, Mica, Physalis Angulata Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Peg-10 Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 80, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Potassium Sorbate, Hydrated Silica, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Hexylene Glycol, Silica, Isoceteth-10, Retinyl Palmitate, Benzyl Alcohol, Phytonadione, Cholecalciferol, Tocopherol, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides.