Recently, a reader sent me the NIA24 Skincare line to try (thank you, thank you!!! :-)). Formulated with patented Pro-NiacinTM (myristyl nicotinate), a form of niacin (vitamin B3), the product line claims to “rebuild skin integrity three ways.” But is the line as incredible as it seems?
Vitamin B3 and Skin Repair
Vitamin B3 is an incredible skincare ingredient. Found in basic form as niacinamide (nicotinamide) and acidic form as nicotinic acid, vitamin B3 topically applied in either form is able to increase NAD levels in the skin, according to the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Increased NAD levels have been reported in the Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology to repair damaged DNA within the skin, and to stimulate energy metabolism and promote skin turn over. An additional 2002 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology found that NAD levels stimulate the release of leptin, which has been established to increase wound re-epithelialization. However, as Cosmetic Cop Paula Begoun points out, “There is no research demonstrating that wrinkles are related to wounds.”
Still, on the basis of NAD activation alone, vitamin B3 is a promising ingredient. Niacin in its acidic and basic forms has further been established to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing), and increase skin’s elasticity. Niacin is available in the form of Pro-NiacinTM, which breaks down to Nicotinic Acid, in the NIA24 Skincare Line, and as niacinamide in several Olay moisturizers.
So why use NIA24 instead of Olay moisturizers with niacinamide?
The answer is actually not what you would expect. The company that makes NIA24, Niadyne, Inc., claims in a NIA24 informational brochure that, “Prior to the discovery of Pro-NiacinTM, efforts to transport Niacin, either in the form of Nicotinic Acid or Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) have failed due to their hydrophilic properties.” The NIA24 informational brochure also attests to the fact that Pro-NiacinTM “goes beyond topical application to penetrate the epidermis in a slow, continuous release.” However, many independent scientific studies suggest that ordinary topical application of niacinamide is highly effective, including a 2005 study demonstrating that topical application of niacinamide assists patients with rosacea, and a 2007 study demonstrating that topical application of 2% niacinamide is effective in inhibiting melanosome transfer (helpful for hyperpigmentation). No independent (i.e., published by scientists exclusively uninvolved in Niadyne, Inc.) studies have been published to date that directly measure the effects of niacinamide and Pro-NiacinTM.
The advantage to NIA24 skincare products with Pro-NiacinTM over Olay products with niacinamide therefore may actually not be the form of niacin at all, but in its other established anti-aging ingredients. While Olay Regenerist Night Recovery Treatment ($17.14, Amazon.com) contains excellent ingredients, including green tea extract, NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex ($85.00, NIA24.com) goes above and beyond, with additional antioxidant rosemary extract, hydrating sodium hyaluronate, skin barrier-reinforcing ceramide 2 and ceramide 3. NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex also contains soy extract. According to Paula Begoun, author of Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, the soy proteins contain genistein, which exhibits both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Altogether, soy proteins have also been found in independent scientific studies to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro, which together increase the firmness, elasticity, and suppleness of skin. NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex also contains a high concentration of olive oil (Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil), which Olay products with niacinamide do not. Olive oil is a hydrating antioxidant that has also shown protective effects against UV radiation in mice.
What are the best NIA24 products?
NIA24 Physical Cleansing Scrub is amazing ($35.00, Amazon.com). Used after a gentle cleanser 2-3 days a week, the scrub contains jojoba beads that are encapsulated with Pro-NiacinTM, so as you wash, you are getting the benefits of niacin in your skin. NIA24 Physical Cleansing Scrub‘s jojoba beads are also small and spherical, so they do not run the risk of tearing your pores. The scrub also contains additional Pro-NiacinTM, Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran Extract and Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour as soothing and anti-inflammatory ingredients, and sunflower seed oil, which is hydrating. Although you will hardly ever hear me say it, I tried it and the formulation made my normal skin feel amazing. Just keep in mind dermatologist Leslie Baumann’s advice: “If you have redness or rosacea, avoid scrubs.” You may also want to skip this step if you have acne. Other than that, go for it; it’s a great way to add niacin into an already-full skin care régimé. Product rating: 10/10.
As mentioned above, NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex ($85.00, NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex) contains 5% Pro-NiacinTM, plus other beneficial ingredients, like soy extract, sodium hyaluronate, ceramides 2 and 3, super antioxidants green tea and vitamin E, and olive oil. NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex also contains retinyl palmitate (retinol with fatty acid attached), but retinyl palmitate is listed low on the ingredients list, so you may still wish to use another retinol treatment under NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex, provided that your skin is not sensitive. Product rating: 9/10 (a way to get niacin with many other beneficial ingredients in skin care).
Another excellent product is the NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 ($55.00, NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30). Formulated with 5% Pro-NiacinTM, potent antioxidant vitamin E, and a full 9.4% micronized Titanium Dioxide and 3.6% micronized Zinc Oxide, this product provides a way to get the effects of niacin and a photostable physical sunscreen everyday. Unfortunately, another excellent physical sunscreen like Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreen Cream SPF 30 ($12.79, Amazon.com) contains 5.0% Titanium Dioxide and 10.0% Zinc Oxide. In the text Cosmetic Dermatology, it is reported Zinc Oxide, provides more anti-aging protection than Titanium Dioxide in the UVA1 range (>340 nm), so the higher concentration of Zinc Oxide in Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreen Cream SPF 30 is more beneficial the higher concentration of Titanium Dioxide in NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30. Still, if you get ready quickly in the morning, there is not a better way to get anti-aging effects of niacin and a stable physical block sunscreen than NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30. If you have more time, apply Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreen Cream SPF 30 ($12.79, Amazon.com) over the NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex moisturizer, for the best of both worlds! Product Rating: 9.5/10 (Great way to get niacin and a physical sunscreen in a single product, but you may want to get the NIA24 moisturizer and a more potent physical sunscreen.)
Should I buy all the NIA24 products?
My least favorite product in the NIA24 Skincare line is NIA24 Intensive Recovery Complex ($110.00, NIA24.com), because it is the only product in the line that contains Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract, which contains lycopene. As has been previously reported, the use of lycopene at this time is somewhat questionable, as a 2005 study by Yeh et. al. in the mouse demonstrated that topical application of lycopene “enhances UVA-induced oxidative stress in [mouse] fibroblast (skin) cells, and…under UVA irradiation, lycopene may produce oxidative products that are responsible for the prooxidant effects.” Although this study was done on the mouse, based on these results and similar from Offord et. al., products with lycopene, like NIA24 Intensive Recovery Complex, are less desirable than similar products without lycopene, like NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex.
Overall, to buy or not to buy?
Definitely, a buy, particularly on the NIA24 Physical Cleansing Scrub if you do not have rosacea, redness, or acne ($35.00, NIA24.com), NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex ($85.00, NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex), and NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 ($55.00, NIA24.com).
NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex and certain Olay products are excellent sources of the benefits of vitamin B3 (niacin). Although they cost more than the Olay products with niacinamide, NIA24 products also carry additional proven anti-aging and hydrating ingredients in their formulations, and a more photostable physical sunscreen. Overall, I love the NIA24 Skincare line and have personally started to use the NIA24 Physical Cleansing Scrub every other day, NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex over a retinoid treatment at night, and NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 (in the winter months) over Skinceuticals CE Ferulic in the morning. NIA24 is a great way to get your skin niacin and other anti-aging and hydrating benefits! 🙂
Some Normal Side Effects At First…
[updated November 20, 2007] According to a NIA24 pamphlet, some with sensitive skin may experience “first blush, initial breakout, or dryness” for the first week or so after beginning the NIA24 regime. “First blush” is a warming sensation that can lead to redness or irritation. The company advises that, if “first blush” is experienced, to follow an introduction regimen (use every other day for the first 7-10 days) and apply a cool compress to soothe the skin. Those experiencing dryness and initial breakout are advised to use every other day for the first 7-10 days as well. Finally, those experiencing severe dryness may benefit from using NIA24 with a different soothing moisturizer at first.
Where can I buy NIA24 products?
[updated November 29, 2007] The authorized retailers of NIA24 products are select physicians’ offices. To find a physician who is an authorized NIA24 retailer, please use the physician locator here.
*Updated November 29, 2007
This article has been updated to reflect authorized retailers of NIA24.