Olay Definite Eye Illuminator claims to be a two-in-one sucker punch for the treatment for the delicate undereye region, acting as both a moisturizer and a concealer. Available in the U.S. for the suggested retail price of $25.99, Olay Definity Eye Illuminator contains n-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide to decrease hyperpigmentation and increase moisturization (temporarily plumping up the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles), and different colors of mica, Earth minerals used to give the skin sparkle and shin.
Are n-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide effective anti-aging ingredients?
N-acetyl glucosamine, a monosaccharide derivative of glucose, and niacinamide (AKA vitamin B3, niacin, or nicotinic acid), treat hyperpigmentation. According to a 2007 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, a double-blind, placebo-controlled, left-right randomized study found that n-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide used in conjunction on one side of the face are more effective than glucosamine alone, applied on the other side of the face, in treating signs of hyperpigmentation. This means that the product may reduce the appearance of dark undereye circles caused by excess melanin production, although undereye circles caused by inflammation or vasodilation of the blood vessels (and potentially other sources) would not necessarily be helped by this product. The aforementioned study also found that n-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide have high tolerance in the skin, and thus should not cause irritation in most formulations.
Studies have also shown that n-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide increase skin’s water content, thereby plumping up the skin and temporarily reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. According to Paula Begoun, author of Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, niacinamide has also been found to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in the skin, which assist in skin moisturization, as proven by 1970 study which found that total ceramide levels are decreased in skin xerosis (chronic dry skin).
Why mica particles?
Mica is used to reflect the light, giving it “sparkle and shine,” according to Begoun. However, different colors of mica have not been used in this way to cancel out discoloration, as Beth Jewell-Motz, beauty principal scientist at Procter & Gamble, tells Allure: “They function as a reverse prism — if you have blue discoloration under your skin, the yellow particles will absorb it and emit white light, and if you have redness, the green will also have the same effect.” This is a novel, albeit entirely cosmetic, effect of the product that should make the product an excellent concealer.
Overall, to buy or not to buy?
Overall, Olay Definity Eye Illuminator seems to be a novel concealer with hydrating properties and the potential to reduce dark undereye circles, but only those patients whose undereye circles are caused by excess melanin production. Immediately after using the product, the differently colored mica particles should conceal undereye flaws very well. An added bonus for the product is that in also contains tocopheryl acetate (a vitamin E derivative), which has antioxidant properties (although vitamin E is not as effective alone as it is in combination with vitamin C, glutathione, coenzyme Q10 or lipoic acid), and itoyl pentapeptide-4, an anti-aging peptide complex. The product does not contain sunscreen, so be sure to apply some over it. The product also does not contain retinoids or vitamin K, which have been shown in a Baumann-cited study by Elson et. al to be effective against undereye circles. If dark circles are a concern, you may want to try a treatment with retinol and vitamin K instead, such as Quintessence Clarifying Under Eye Serum Capsules ($65.00, BaumannStore.com). Overall, however, I would call this an excellent cosmetic concealer with hydrating properties, and some anti-aging and skin-lightening potential — 8/10.
Product ingredients:
Water , Cyclopentasiloxane , Glycerin , Pentylene Glycol , Niacinamide , Acetyl Glucosamine , Dimethicone Crosspolymer , itoyl Pentapeptide-4 , Tocopheryl Acetate , Panthenol , Triethanolamine , PEG-100 Stearate , Allantoin , Carbomer , Disodium EDTA , Hexylene Glycol , Ethylhexylglycerin , Caprylyl Glycol , Phenoxyethanol , Soluble Collagen , Sodium Hyaluronate , Titanium Dioxide , Tin Oxide , Mica