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Product Review: Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention

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Olay Regenerist - 14 Day Skin Intervention - 14 treatments  

With Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention ($25.99, Drugstore.com), the company claims you will experience “a stronger skin structure as the intensely hydrating system improves skin’s moisture barrier.” The kit comes with 14 vials, one for each of 14 days. According to the company, days 1-7 are “specially formulated to ignite the cellular regeneration within skin’s surface, infusing your skin with repairing moisture and an Olay peptide – B3 complex.” Days 8-14, on the other hand, contain a high concentration of an Olay peptide – B3 complex. Further, on these latter days, wrinkles are filled with “polishing micro-powders” and “hydrating moisture improves skin’s structure as you experience a lifted look to your skin.” But is this the best Olay treatment out there for the money?

What I love about it

If you read my blog often enough, you know that there are few things in skin care I love more than high concentrations of ingredients that have been proven to be effective in peer-reviewed scientific journals. Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention has some great ones: niacinamide, vitamin E, and green tea are all in fairly high concentrations in both phases 1 and 2.

According to a study by Bissett et. al., niacinamide does it all: reduces fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing), and increases elasticity. A 2005 study by Draelos et. al., also revealed niacinamide may help alleviate some of the symptoms of rosacea by increasing hydration and barrier function of the stratum corneum (uppermost layer of the skin), and may have some anti-carcinogenic characteristics as well. And finally, in a 1995 study by Takozaki et. al., it was reported that a 4% topical niacinamide treatment applied twice daily may help to treat acne by reducing inflammation with similar efficacy to 1% clindamycin gel.

Vitamin E is an antioxidant that is naturally produced in the sebum of the skin. According a 2006 study by McDaniel et. al., vitamin E has a higher antioxidant activity than kinetin, ubiquinone, vitamin C, or lipoic acid, as measured by the Environmental Protection Factor (EPF), a method of measuring antioxidant activity that has been adopted by the Elizabeth Arden companies (manufacturers of Prevage, amongst others).

Lastly, the polyphenols in green tea have been found in a 2003 study in Molecular Epidemiology and Cancer Prevention to prevent UVB-induced oxidation of lipids and proteins and against the depletion in antioxidant enzymes experienced after UVB exposure in mouse skin. In addition, according to Dr. Gary Goldfaden, M.D., “In a recent dermatological comparison study, the use of a lotion containing a tea extract produced a 70% improvement in rosacea compared to use of a lotion containing the base ingredients alone. This tea extract is rich in antioxidant polyphenols and contains a variety of potent flavonoids.” Verifying this is a 2003 study in the Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, which reports that green tea reduces UVB-induced inflammation as measured by double-fold skin swelling.

Some great ingredients to have in high concentration!

What is the difference between Phase 1 and Phase 2?

Phase 1 and Phase 2 are fairly similar, as both contain the ingredients described above. However, phase 1 contains amino acids, namely Glycine, Alanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Arginine, and Lysine. Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins. Unfortunately, topically applying amino acids has never been shown in any published, peer-reviewed scientific studies to assist the skin in regenerating or synthesizing new proteins. Instead, amino acids may only assist in hydration: according to a 1989 study in the British Journal of Dermatology, amino acids are found in lower levels in skin with chronic xerosis (dry skin), and higher levels in normal skin. However, even the hydrating power of amino acids have not been established.

Phase 2 contains a higher concentration of cyclopentilosane, a silicone-based compound that is designed here to temporarily “fill in” fine lines and wrinkles. Under make-up, this is slightly effective, depending on the depth of the fine lines and wrinkles. In addition, Phase 2 of Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention contains two pivotal ingredients that Phase 1 does not: caffeine and witch hazel. Topical application of caffeine has been shown by Lu et. al in a 2007 study to have a sunscreen-like effect, enhance UVB-induced apoptosis, and inhibit UVB-induced skin carcinogenesis when applied to the skin of mice. The exact mechanism by which caffeine achieves these aims is not yet known, but it may be related to the fact that the caffeic acid found in caffeine has been found to have some antioxidant activity. Topical application of caffeine additionally dehydrates the skin and constricts blood vessels, so skin may appear drier, yet smoother and less puffy. On the other hand, witch hazel should soothe irritated skin.

What I Don’t Like About the Product

I have three major problems with the product:

The first problem is that Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention (~$25.99) costs about 25% more than Olay Regenerist Night ($17.14, Amazon.com). Yet, you are getting only 42% as much product (21 mL in Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention versus 50.2 mL in Olay Regenerist Night, and all of the major ingredients (niacinamide, peptides, vitamin E, green tea) are in similar concentrations. In addition, the more expensive Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention contains the less-proven peptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, rather than palmitoyl pentapeptide-3. Which brings me to problem #2…

As I have said before, all peptides are not created equal. While it is certainly possible that palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is every bit as effective as palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, this has not yet been shown in any published, peer-reviewed scientific studies. What has been shown (according to a review in the journal Dermatologic Therapy) is that palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 has been demonstrated to stimulate feedback regulation of new collagen synthesis and to result in an increased production of extracellular matrix proteins (types I and II collagen and fibronectin). For information about peptides, please click here for the update from March 4, 2008.

Lastly, let’s not forget the importance of sunscreen. Using Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention in the morning under make-up may sound like a good idea due its inclusion of wrinkle-filling cyclopentilosane, but sunscreen application is still necessary. For the effects of all the beneficial ingredients in Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention, plus the more proven peptide and vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid and sunscreen, I recommend Olay Regenerist Regenerating Lotion with UV Protection ($17.14, Amazon.com).

In summary…

I like Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention, but I don’t love it, particularly when there are other Olay treatments with better ingredients for less money (and more product!) For day, I would alternatively choose Olay Regenerist Regenerating Lotion with UV Protection, and for night, I would choose Olay Regenerist Night.

For more information on Olay products, please visit the company website here.

Ingredients in Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention

Phase 1: Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Polyethylene, Niacinamide*, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4**, Tocopheryl Acetate, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Petrolatum, Allantoin, Betaine, Sorbitol, Glycine, Alanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Arginine, Lysine, Glutamic Acid, Sucrose Polycottonseedate, Sodium PCA, Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, PEG 10 Dimethicone, Cetyl Ricinoleate, PEG 10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG 100 Stearate, Disodium EDTA, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Benzyl Alcohol, Fragrance, Blue 1, Red 40.

Phase 2: Cyclopentasiloxane, Water, Glycerin, Polyethylene, Dimethicone, Niacinamide*, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Propylene Glycol, Panthenol, Caffeine, Butylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Allantoin, Polysorbate 20, C13 – 14 Isoparaffin, Polyacrylamide, Dimethiconol, Laureth-4, Laureth-7, Titanium Dioxide, PEG 100 Stearate, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Disodium EDTA, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Benzyl Alcohol, Yellow 5, Red 40.

*Vitamin B3, **Amino-Peptide

Ingredients in Olay Regenerist Night Treatment (courtesy Amazon.com)

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Polyethylene, Niacinamide*, Dimethicone crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Steryl dimethicone, Propylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Panthenol**, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3***, Tocopheryl acetate †, Lavandula angustifolia (lavender) extract, arnica montana flower extract, camellia sinesis leaf extract¿¿, Alanine, Arginne, Betaine, Glycine, Lysine, Proline, Serine, ThThreonine, Glutamic Acid, Sodium PCA, Sorbitol, PEG-10, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sucrose Polycottonsedate, Allantoin, Petrolatum, BIS-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, Cetyl Ricnoleate, Disodium edta, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Benzyl alcohol, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Red 40, Blue 1, Fragrance. *Amino-Peptide, **Vitamin B3, ***Pro-Vitamin B5, ¿Vitamin E, ¿¿Green Tea

Ingredients in Olay Regenerist Regenerating Lotion with UV Protection

4% Octisalate|2% Avobenzone|1% Ensulizole|1.25% Octocrylene|Water|Glycerin|Niacinamide|Isopropyl Isostearate|Panthenol|Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3|Ascorbic Acid|Tocopheryl Acetate|Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract|Allantoin|Cetearyl Glucoside|Polyacrylamide|C13-14 Isoparaffin|Laureth-7|Dimethiconol|Triethanolamine|Titanium Dioxide|PEG-100 Stearate|Ammonium Polyacrylate|Polytetrafluorethylene|Carbomer|Behenyl Alcohol|Cetyl Alcohol|Disodium EDTA|Cetearyl Alcohol|Stearyl Alcohol|Benzyl Alcohol|Ethylparaben|Methylparaben|Propylparaben|Fragrance

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