Photo courtesy BellaSugar.com.
A self-proclaimed favorite of none other than Oprah Winfrey, Philosophy Hope in a Jar ($38.00, Amazon.com) flies off the shelves since Oprah’s mention of it on a 2004 show. But is this cream worthy of the Forbes #1 Most Powerful Celebrity?
I’m sorry, Oprah…
Oprah says, “Hope away those wrinkles!” Unfortunately, this cream brings little more than hope. Although most of the ingredients in other Philosophy products are proven effective — such as in the potent Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum — there is not much in Philosophy Hope in a Jar ($38.00, Amazon.com) except hydrating ingredients. In fact, the first nine ingredients after water are all either for hydrating or thickening purposes, rather than potent antioxidants, niacinamide, retinoids, collagen-building peptides or alpha hydroxy acids, all of which are proven to be effectual against signs of aging or prevention. According to Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop, “Philosophy Hope in a Jar is a good, though not great, moisturizer for normal to dry skin.”
What about the vitamin E (tocopherol acetate)?
Vitamin E is an established antioxidant. In fact, vitamin E has an environmental protection factor (EPF) of 80, which is relatively high compared to other commonly used antioxidants in skin care formulations. EPF was established for measuring the overall oxidative stress protection capacity of commonly used antioxidants in a 2006 study by McDaniel et. al. In this study, the researchers found that (on a scale from 1 to 100) idebenone had an EPF of 95; vitamin E (tocopherol), 80; kinetin, 68; ubiquinone, 55; vitamin C (ascorbic acid) 52; and lipoic acid, 41. However, coffee berry, which has been established to have more antioxidant activity than idebenone, was not included in the study.
Even with its high EPF, the addition of vitamin E doesn’t place Philosophy Hope in a Jar amongst the best anti-aging creams on the market. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, vitamins C and E, glutathione, lipoic acid, and coenzyme Q10 are “network antioxidants,” which work together synergistically to regenerate or enhance their action. For instance, after vitamin E is used to neutralize a free radical, another network antioxidant can donate electrons to vitamin E, effectively “recycling” it in the system, and enabling it to neutralize more free radicals (and hence put off aging) for longer. Therefore, while Philosophy Hope in a Jar contains only antioxidant vitamin E, products like Skinceuticals CE Ferulic and NV Perricone Advanced Face Firming Activator (amongst many others) contain two or more network antioxidants, and hence should have more potent anti-aging antioxidant activity than Philosophy Hope in a Jar.
What about retinyl palmitate?
Retinyl palmitate is a combination of retinol and palmitic acid, and is considered to be an effective anti-aging ingredient. However, for better reasons, anyone interested in anti-aging skin care products who is not pregnant or nursing should see a dermatologist for a prescription for prescription-strength retinoids (i.e., all-trans retinoic acid). While all-trans retinoic acid is considered by many dermatologists to be the “gold standard” against signs of aging, retinol is about twenty times less potent than retinyl palmitate (Lupo). This is because, unlike tretinoin, retinol must first be converted to retinaldehyde, and then all-trans retinoic acid within the skin in order to be effective. Retinol is considered to be effective if it is present in concentrations of 0.04%-0.07%, but the concentration of retinyl palmitate (retinol plus palmitic acid) in this product is not available information. Considering the middle-of-the-road placement of retinyl palmitate on the Philosophy Hope in a Jar ingredients list, it is impossible to tell if a potent concentration of retinyl palmitate is included in the product.
What about panthenol?
Panthenol, or pantothenic acid, is also known as vitamin B5. Pantothenic acid is an essential component of coenzyme A, which functions as a cofactor for many enzymatic reactions needed in the metabolism of carbohydrates, fats, corticosteroids, and sex hormones. In the skin, according to Paula Begoun, the “Cosmetics Cop,” pantothenic acid has been shown to be effective for hydration and wound healing. Although one study demonstrates the effectiveness of vitamin B5 against acne, there do not seem to be any long-term anti-wrinkle effects of panthothenic acid.
Overall opinions?
Overall, Philosophy Hope in a Jar is a good hydrating moisturizer and a good source of antioxidant vitamin E. Unfortunately, Philosophy Hope in a Jar does not contain many proven anti-aging ingredients, and it does not seem to contain a high concentration of retinol. For better wrinkle-reducing results, try a product with more of the following: potent antioxidants, niacinamide, retinoids, collagen-building peptides or alpha hydroxy acids. Product rating: 6/10.
Ingredients
Water, Lauryl Lactate, Behenic Acid, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glycerin, Behenyl Alcohol, Cyclomethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetracaprylate/Tetracaprate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Benzyl Alcohol, Retinyl Palmitate, Stearic Acid, Panthenol, Betaglucan, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Xanthan Gum, Triethanolamine, Propylene Glycol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea.